casts_by_fly

only you can know based on the rod itself. Maybe is the short answer. What is the rod (make and model)? Saltwater rods for heavier applications like surf and boat are typically pretty flexible in what they can handle. My heavy surf rod I think is a 1-4 but I've through 8 and bait on it before.

Amber or yellow on my humminbird for side. It just works with my amber polarized lenses. On downscan I prefer the red/blue pallet. On ffs I like green.

What’s mid deep for you? For me, that’s a rod capable of a dt6 up to a dt16. I don’t get to do that much because when the fish are at that depth around here we have lots of grass. When I can do it though, I use the falcon expert Hudson special. It’s a 7’3” and perfect for that. If you want it’s big brother rod, the Toledo special is a longer and slower version at 7’8” and a slower action. They will set you back $200 and $220 respectively but if you can wait for after Christmas you can get the 10% off gift card special at TW.

Hi Gents, Per the title, anyone have this rod? I've done some searching and there isn't a ton of first hand about it. Based on what I'm reading, it looks like it is more or less the medium light blank design that they have thinned down the tip to be ultra light while still retaining a lot of backbone shortly into the rod. When I bought my zodias last year, this is about exactly what I was looking for. I love my zodias, but this one has my interest. thanks rick

if you figure a 1/4 oz for the plastic, you're into a half ounce total quickly. Even if you're only adding a 1/8 oz plastic like a 2.5" Keitech SIF you're still at 3/8. On the top end you're 3/8-3/4 total bait weight. That's completely baitcaster territory forme. Since I fish Falcon that's a 5 or 6 power (MH or light Heavy). Which rod and line depends on the cover I'm fishing. Long casts, rock bottom, and open points? Either the 7'2" swim jig or the 7'3" Hudson special and 12-14# sunline mono. Cover, docks, and target casting? Definitely the 6'10" Head turner and 16# sunline.

'rating' in the descriptive word sense can be a wide range depending on the manufacturer's whims. It can depend on the intended use or any other thing the manufacturer thinks is right. You said both are salt water. Is one a surf rod and the other an inshore type rod? A medium heavy surf rod could be 1-3 oz while an inshore type rod meant for redfish and specs would be rated more like a freshwater bass rod and a heavy would carry a 3/8-1 type of rating.

same logic as for crankbaits. When a bass inhales a moving bait, you want a little bit of give in your setup so that he can properly inhale it for the times when they are eating but not absolutely crushing it. the more give, the deeper the fish takes it and the better chance of a hookset. That's the logic anyway. I've not had any issues with fish inhaling chatterbaits with mono and fast graphite rods.

so I didn't look close enough at this picture because it was darker and not clear. It's not the same buck that I have been chasing in the earlier pictures. The earlier one has taller tines and lots of curvature. He's also a mainframe 8 that's lost a point. This one in the above picture is dead. I was in the blind this morning at 530 again. Around 6 a pair of does came in and shortly thereafter 3 bucks walk in. The first is the one in this picture on the left (blurry) that is a small 8. The other was a forkhorn I know. This 8 was the other. I couldn't tell at first because it was too dark. I thought it might be the 4x1 in the pictures further up this thread. But as it kept getting lighter I could see tines on both sides as he turned his head. I could also see he was much wider than his body. Pretty certain he was a shooter, I just had to wait for more light. It was just about light enough at 615 when a fox came running in and spooked all of the deer off. They didn't run far though and 5 minutes later they were walking back in. He came in straight on and stayed that way for 10 minutes so I didn't have a shot. I was ready to draw so when a stick/leave/bird spooked him he made 3 big steps to my right and stopped. I was already drawn before he stopped so I settled the pin and let loose. I thought he was every so slightly quartering to so I kept it tight to the shoulder, but when my lighted knock didn't disappear I knew I hit the offside bone (or so I thought). It burried to the fletchings though so I was confident it was in the boiler room. He ran across the powerline and down the hill into the woods. I heard deer running for 30 seconds and thought I heard a crash down over the hill (about 150 yards down) but given that I thought he was slightly quartering and that the arrow didn't pass through, I thought I'd give him a half hour. After 10 minutes I walked over to see the start of the trail and check the arrow part that I saw cut off. I didn't find the fletchings, but I did find the rest of the arrow. I think his shoulder cut it when he ran and the fletching side fell out the right and the broadhead side out the left. Not a pass through, but 2 holes. And there was also blood every where and good bubbly blood. I ended up calling my dad and chatting while I came back, let the dogs out, change clothes, etc. I didn't need to worry. What I thought was a crash way down over the hill must have just been the other deer stopping. The arrow hit the base of both lungs and the top arteries of the heart. He didn't go 30 yards. Not sure why it didn't penetrate all the way through since it didn't hit bone but I'll take it. He's a solid 5.5 year old, and it you told me he was a lot older I'd believe you. I don't think we have the best nutrition for growing racks around here but the grey in his face and thickness of his bases betray some age in him. Definitely my widest buck ever, and probably my biggest.

For $100 it’s well worth a try if you want a lighter lure/like casting rod. it would be a great small crankbait rod (3/8 and under). A weightless senko on a lighter hook. Finesse jigs. Smaller top waters like poppers and Zara puppies. If you fish 1/4 oz shaky heads or equivalent weight 3” paddle tails. It’s a 1/4-3/8 oz lure weight rod and 10-12 lb line. I would call it a moderate fast and medium power. It shouldn’t bend as much as it does on a cast to call it a fast action. as for the reels, the met is a better feeling reel than the curado. Both should cast similarly as both will have the mgl spool. That’s a pretty good choice for that rod. The met is smaller and will feel like a better pair.

Then in that case vert to my prior questions. How big of a boat do you want and how much do you want to spend? You say your ranger won’t fit the garage. What will? In my own case, it means a 16-17’ boat with a small motor. A tracker 175 txw with a 50hp elco electric and a good trolling motor would fish like any other bass boat. A used txw plus an elco would run you $15-20k depending on age of the boat and if you sell the motor that’s on it. that’s how the electric only lakes are around here, but there are other lakes in Maryland and Georgia where you can’t have it on the boat. Or if you have it, you have to take the prop off. It’s annoying for sure but I get it for water supply reservoirs.

Sitting in my blind for a single deer and get this showing him a half mile away. I don’t think he’s going to make it here before dark but I’ve never seen him in that camera before.

That’s the BFS labeled rod. I bought one in June from TW for $125. I wanted it for 1/8oz Ned rigs and 1/16 Texas rigs. I didn’t like it. Not fast in action. It has a lot more bend deep into the rod when casting far more relaxed stroke. And the tip wasn’t light enough to go down to a 1/8 head plus finesse trd. I mean it was fine, but not what I wanted. I moved to the phoenix ml on a suggestion from frydog and gave my dad the curado since that’s all he fishes. For a 6” swamp crawler and a 1/16 or 1/8 weight it’s a good spinning rod replacement (he doesn’t like a spinning rod). im excited to try the new Falcon Cara BFS that they just announced. 7’2”, falcon 3-power. 1/8-5/8 I think.

It’s worth it. Best Buy on a high end reel going. I’m contemplating another I just don’t have room to carry another rod.

Cheap rod where they took away one too many guides. Given the way an ugly stick bends, those blanks really should have a few more. But for $30 you’re not going to get much in a rod. There is no defect. It’s not going to break. And it won’t hurt casting distance. Just poor design and choices.

The fly rod industry went through this 20 years ago. Orvis launched a no fault lifetime warranty as a sales ploy. It worked but it drove customer expectations and rod price through the roof. Soon everyone had to offer it. I think most have course corrected now but it’s caused a lot of harm in the industry. this is where I am. All a rod needs is a one year original buyer warranty. When I built rods that’s what I’d offer. If a rod blank has a defect and is going to break, it will usually do it the first time you fight a fish on it or set the hook on a stump. A reel seat popping loose maybe a little longer. Guides don’t break on their own and thread/epoxy will be just fine so long as it’s in there. Anything I do stupid to break one and it’s on me That’s said, while it isn’t my defining reason to buy one, if the rod I buy has a warranty then I’m going to use it if needed.

Search for a ‘reservoir boat’. It’s a common thing for Georgia and Maryland for sure. Maybe others. Basically the same rules you describe. Any horsepower restrictions or just electric only? in effect, how big and how much? What level of refinement? As noted, a smaller tiller aluminum with an epropulsion motor is a ready made solution. You could do the same with two transom mount trolling motors. If you’re not horsepower restricted then you could get into a 50 hp Elco. there are decent numbers of reservoir boats for sale on marketplace in the right areas.

We went into the city Saturday mid day to Sunday mid day. Of course you know what happened Sunday morning while I wasn’t there.

we didn't see any of that last night. That was through the prime app on my buddy's TV. Sounds like a transmission speed/bandwidth issue.

That's pretty much where I am also. I've passed a couple 8's this year now. I shot two like them last year and I've decided to let that size walk. The bigger guy running around is about a 130 if he didn't have a broken/missing G3. He'd be 5.5 or so around here with that much antler (poor diet and nutrition I think). There is another 7 that isn't as wide, but is a good bit thicker and taller. I've only seen him once while driving, but if he comes through he gets shot. Saw two new bucks last night. A doe and her two button bucks were out front and she started staring down the powerline. Out popped a buck I'll call 'field goal' now. His rack comes up and out to the G2 point and there is nominally a 5" G2. But no brown tines and no main beam beyond the G2. So he's basically a big spike that looks like a field goal post. When he walked past the doe she didn't put her head down so I knew there was another. I saw the rack from 40 yards and said it was a shooter- past his ears, decent height, good body size. When it came out at 20 yards though, he turned his head and his right main beam is bare- no brow, no points, nothing. I thought about shooting him for the novelty of the rack, but I'm holding off.

Not if you're beached on a stump you're not! Yeah, I've been sitting in a deer blind the past week in the mornings at that temp and it's cold. On the water, getting sprayed, in the wind? No thanks.

I zig, he zags. Went to another spot to shoot a doe. At the exact moment he was in front of my blind, I’m 20 yards from a small 8 and two puppy dog does (this years fawns) while mom watches from 60 yards away. She caught me scent but she was the only one who cared. Saw 5 bucks, 2 fawns, and a doe out of range. while he was out back at my blind.

good thing you got the CO2 cartridge sorted! The AP is a big stable boat, but when the wind hits 20 and the waves start cresting you're looking at some troubles. I've fished in it (standing up too) but it isn't nice. I've done the 'just don't fight the wind' journey that takes you 180 degrees from where you want to be, but exactly where you need to be (a safer spot!). And just think, if you were in a jon boat taking waves over the bow and stuck like that you'd have probably swamped. At least the AP with scuppers just drains it out. Glad you're safe. Keep us posted.

It wasn't my best year this year, but a lot of it was due to time constraints. When you can be on the water twice as much, you're going to have twice the changes of catching a big bass (or anybass). You also get more variability in conditions that mean you can fish the conditions that suit you. Case in point, I like cloudy, blowy drizzle kind days in April-June. We didn't have that many this year and when we did I was often at a desk. Last year I had more flexiblity to go fish them. On top, lakes change year to year. Year classes of fish change. Those 4 lb fish in texas are going to be ~4-5 years old. Was there a good spawn 5 years ago? How about the baitfish- how have they changed lately? Lots of variables. Like Toxic said- you never know what a day is going to hold on the water so take them as they come, do your best in the conditions, and have fun.

@Scherbacj- you are correct in your understanding of how it works. The issue your having will be come combination of the returns from the structure, the error in the placement of the waypoint, and (since you just mentioned it) using downscan. If you are scanning for structure, I recommend side scan. With downscan, you are condensign a really wide area of the bottom into a small number of pixels and you lose the 'depth of field'. Consider the example from HBird below. While the tip of the tree that is shallowest might be a single point, consider that the entire tree in the right example is probably 50' from port to starboard as the boat goes over it. On the screen the center of the tree is a single plane. So to pick a pixel in the dead center of the tree it might be 50' either side of the center line of the boat and you can't tell. And it entirely depends on which pixel you chose. If you've run over the center of the tree in the first place then the waypoint should still be close. But if you've only skimmed the edge with the edge of the beam, the center of that tree could be 75' away. If you are using side imaging, you don't get the detail of the structure as clearly, but distance from the centerline is much easier to manage. Do that twice from two angles and you should have two waypoints within a few feet of each other. Then you go back over it with down imaging to find the details inside.

yes you should. Probably a lot more people should also. it's an old lure but it works.