casts_by_fly

what type of cover are you talking about? Walking a frog in more open water along docks and laydowns and bombing across the top of a mat are different rods for me. I don't do much of the first given the cover we have here, but for that I prefer a lighter rod with a bit more tip. For bombing, I want a rod with enough backbone that setting a hook at 40 yards isn't a question.

If you haven't had them serviced in a while, I would suggest send them off. They probably need a deep clean and fresh lube. Reels of that era are simple machines really and a good servicing will get them back to good shape.

Nah, I don't see that happening. Maybe the 11" Apex. Maybe. I agree there is a price gap, but I don't think there is a product gap. Both are similar interfaces and styles. Part of the reason for reorganizing this way was to have a clear difference in the product specs and features. With the Helix, you could go from 5-15". Solix 10-12-15. Apex 13-16-19. So in the 10-15" bracket you had 2 or 3 difference options at different price points. But with what differentiation to get you to pay more? Touchscreen for one. The apex has better processing, but not many really need that. If you're looking at side imaging, you're better off with the bigger screen and not touch screen than the other way around (IMO). So why would someone buy a 16" Apex when a 15" Helix is nearly as good and ~half the price? I'd take a pair of Helix over a single Apex. So the explore is a lineup harmonization/simplification to get some of the features of the solix and some of the helix. Charge a price between the two, and have a clear product differentiation up to the apex (size primarily, some capabilities second). If you bring out a 14" explore, who is going to buy the 13" Apex? Maybe if you bring out an 11" Apex then you could get some to upgrade. Maybe. All that said, the helix 15 MDI G4N is down to $1700 which is $1k off. That will push the used market down further yet. I think I have a leaning in my quandry above. The 15" helix would be a pretty good dedicated Mega live bow unit with a helix 9 on the console.

I'm kinda in this boat. I have a helix 9 G4N with ML1. In the kayak I have no plan to upgrade or add on. I'm buying a boat this winter and that will need 2 units. So its either start fresh with explore/ML2 so that going into the future there is no compatibility issue, add a new to me Helix N knowing that the upgrade path is blocked and bring the Helix 9/ML1 with me, or sell the Helix 9/ML1 with the kayak and revert to option 1. There isn't a bad option as the Helix is great. That's the most likely path for me (add one) but that also means if I sell the kayak I need to strip the electronics. It would just be easier to sell the whole thing as one if I had a buyer.

https://www.digitaka.com/item/5/4/2/4969363046970 SLX 70 with the regular spool for $130. Just get what you like.

If you do a search on here there was a lot of talk about it last year and expecially the year before. Then it kinda died off in favor of the free rig and the jika rig. Each has its benefits. The tokyo is nice if you want to present a plastic nearly horizontal but 3" off the bottom. if you have a soft bottom it will hold it out of the muck. if you have a hard bottom it will present just off of it. In both cases you can swim the bait and it just kinda floats over the bottom. It's also useful for punching down into heavier cover where a texas rig might hang up. Thicker grass and pads are a good option. The weight goes first and the weight/rig/bait all line up linearly to slide down into grass just a little easier at times.

For 3/8 plus a trailer you’re right in the sweet spot for a head turner. Fast tip but a half ounce total bait weight will load it up well. That’s my usual range for it- 3/8-1/2 plus trailer. You won’t be disappointed.

I contemplated a similar setup last winter. I was tired of the lifting so I was going to trailer it. A few guys have done it with raised bunks and enough gap to the trailer cross members so that you can drive the kayak on and off the trailer with the motor. Same orientation as a regular boat. Before you launch you mount and pull down the motor, turn it on, and go. Bow to the back will give you more distance between the motor and the cross member.

A 15” jack will strip 100 yards of line off a light spinning reel in seconds. Jacks in general are beasts. I’ve never caught a gt but I’ve seen them while diving and they are just mean looking. Bulky shoulders, BIG tall forked tail, thick width.

I have head turners and agree you’re in the right place with them. what bait weight are you looking at?

I’m following this. I tried a wake crank last year for the first time and it was basically a sub surface jitterbug (which I’ve fished for 30+ years). Super fun to fish and worked well for me. Unfortunately the one I have is long discontinued so I’m also looking for a couple.

30# braid is great for 3/8 swim jigs. If I’m throwing 2oz then I might start at 50 and go up from there.

for ANY given weight, I'd rather the fish be shorter and thicker. 1- they generally fight harder. 2- That tells me there is a good food base there so if that one is there there are probably more. Like Tom said, long skinny fish usually mean a spotty forage base (aside from the very freshly spawned ones) and that's never a good thing for anyone. This lake has a pretty good forage base.

and it's not like a Stradic is even heavy. My 3k sized FL is just under 8 oz. I have a 1k sized FE from 2004? that is the same weight.

just depends on what you use and need. If you use 360 then you only have one choice. If the mapping is better for hbird on your lakes then so be it. If you prioritize side imaging over live imaging then a humminbird has better imaging for me. If your salary depends on ffs then then humminbird isn’t it. Yes, some of the pros still choose it but im not sure why. switching is a whole ‘nother thing. Once you’ve learned one it’s easier to stay than swap some times.

the vanford if just too light for me. I hate tip heavy spinning setups and the vanford is so light you have to upsize a lot to balance it on most rods.

I bet it was the easiest occasion ever to skip a lure across the top of the water...

they are basically always the same. You see very little, if any, discounting on Falcon rods and especially not the Caras. Any discounts I've ever seen have been sporadic and one-off. You can get 10% by buying TW giftcards right now. Just buy a $250 gift card for $225, then use the gift card to buy the rod.

50/50 for me these days. If it has a built in 'trailer' with a longer section of skirt then no. If it is a compact profile I'm going for then no again. If I want a big profile or want the bait to stay up in the water column then yes.

If you want to eliminate backlashes, then practically speaking 1- adjust the spool tension until the lure slowly drops 2- put the brakes on 1 click below the max setting 3- put the reel on a rod with a moderate fast action for the most forgiveness if you are still backlashing with those three things in place then you need some help with casting form. The above will restrict distance, but for the weight ranges of the rods you're noting above you're already talking about a half ounce total bait weight lure. You should still be able to casually cast that a solid 20-25 yards even with the reel clamped down. Then as you get more practice you can loosen it up.

or if you want waterproof, this one is a 4 compartment but there is only 1 molded divider. And at this price I might just order another one. https://www.amazon.com/Plano-3741-Deep-Waterproof-Stowaway/dp/B00469AX62/ref=sr_1_7?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rW77dAqzbJrz6fDaOPD1C0waAf9OA7UGI1BfSiCpnbdxnWjKK5Rc6IHX2MyuTOE781MvXzvQjClVZsVYCjt-cOzaP3hX6vr4CvM8FPQyjYJge541hWRjBnqkHFAAEP_Kp_alJZ3tUYlL09R3g-Pa8xaijKmcBotHV1dY0UQDVRj_hsZZ3TqypkhvBEckLSGAeAK1l-h6hao6tKZgcRfDHfZRqzGUMksokUiyBIP93yoB4yLZN6eqdf8x6O57nWM7aKr1tv4qkHGnUy0Z3VR9DRfeUK2IMjxQ_6vbxH9eZNM.OB8xfkgll8CJ2PN3J9zOV5wKG5JiA9ukPz3KrMee4VQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=plano%2B3700%2Bdeep&qid=1733327086&sr=8-7&th=1&psc=1

gotcha. My neighbor is from there and we're over that way for a bit. drop me a PM if you want to meet up on a lake this spring.

All the same logic for me. I started with 14 clear for smaller/lighter topwaters and was impressed. I moved my primary moving bait rod to 16 lb green and I doubt I'll move away from it. Abrasion resistance isn't critical for me in that application since most of our cover I'm throwing them around is grass.

For the most part no. However, a trick you can use for the freeware games is to turn off your cellular or Wi-Fi connection. Then open the game and play it without internet. Most will still work fine but since it can’t load an ad you don’t see them.

Sunline supernatural for me. Great knots, consistent diameter, low memory. I use 6 lb on a spinning rod, 10&12 for my crankbait/lighter casting rod, 14 and 16 on my medium and medium heavy rods. I considered some 20# but for what I use line that heavy for I want more abrasion resistance.