casts_by_fly

reach, throw, row, go if you can reach someone then lay down on the dock or bank and reach out. If not, throw them a line. If they are too far or a line isn’t there then row (or paddle) a boat out to them. Lastly, if none are available then go yourself (with some kind of floatation) if your are able and trained to do so. A panicked swimmer will do anything they can to keep their head above water even if that means pushing you under. sounds like the lifesaving merit badge, not basic swimming. I was camp counselor for a while in all aquatic disciplines. Also a trainer lifeguard under various agencies for a bunch of years.

I am not a morning person. I hate getting up early. I will set out all of my clothes the night before, coffee maker set ahead of time, truck loaded and boat in the bed. I can roll out of bed and be in the truck in about 5 minutes in a morning to save sleeping time. All that said, I love being on the water while its still dark and seeing the world come alive. Its pretty mandatory in the summer in some of the busy lakes, but its even better on the remote lakes with no one around. And being there early gives me a little extra time to motor to where I want to be, which I need in a kayak.

I know this won't be popular opinion, but I rarely wear mine. Cold water, rough/busy water, moving water yes. Most of the lakes and times I'm fishing are flat and still smaller water with either electric only or 9.9 hp restrictions. The kayak I'm in is so stable that I actually can't flip it. So the only way for me to get into the water would be having a medical condition and passing out/falling out (I'm young and healthy so that risk is low), hitting something I can't see at 'high' speed while standing (mitigate by not running full speed while standing), or a rogue wave that comes out of nowhere. I consider all of these risks to be low enough that I'm comfortable not wearing one most of the time. Water under 50, busy lakes with power boats, and any moving water are a completely different story. thanks, rick

Which rod/brand are you talking about? If its Falcon, then that's a medium heavy which fishes on the lighter side of Medium heavy compared to others. Not quite as light as a true 'medium' in other brands, but not as heavy as a MH. thanks, rick

Yes. Rod building isn't hard but there is a learning curve. I'm assuming that you want to build this very specific rod because you have a specific and ongoing need. That tells me you want this to be one of your primary rods for a long time, not one that is a niche technique you'll fish a couple times a year. So in that case, make it nice. No sense spending a couple hundred bucks on components if you're going to assemble it with epoxy all over the place, thread tags left sticking out, etc. My recco would be to find an application that you will use occasionally (or could gift to someone) to get the basic techniques down. An inexpensive kit is a good shout. Practice thread wraps and finishing on the butt end which will end up being covered by the grip or seat in the end. Its also easier to wrap on a stiffer section than on a tip section. If possible, pick the same color blank and thread that you're going to use on the final rod so you can get get a feel for what it will look like and if that's what you want. Heck, this thread has me wanting to build a similar rod. I don't fish a spinning rod enough to justify it, plus I have a pair of spinning rods here that do well enough. But this is a fun exercise. thanks, rick

Thanks guys! A lot I had already considered but a few not. Since I’m in a kayak I only have 4-6 rods rigged and with me. Usually it is 4 baitcasters and I rarely have a spinning rod so that eliminates a few follow up baits. That said, I’m going to throw in a spinning rod for this very reason with some form of soft plastic. I was fishing a Ned today for the first time in a local pond just to get a feel for it. I think I prefer the TRD Ticklers for super finesse but I’ll give both a try. The white tickler is like a mini tube and you can rig it to spiral.

Half ounce original or custom. One in a bluegill type pattern (breaking bream or bluegill is my preference), one in black and blue, and one in a white combo color (I like greenback shad). Grab a pack of zako in green pumpkin white laminate and another in black/blue. You can substitute rage menaces in similar colors. Stained or muddy water go black and blue. Clear with grass and bluegill forage go green. Shad base throw white. The fish might suggest otherwise any given day but this will put you close and cover 90% with the minimum number of baits. Want to branch out? Spring craw CB custom and copper orange zako have caught most of my fish this year so far.

yeah, not sure on that one. This particular fish turned about a rod length from the boat when we saw each other and took off for the deep. I was fishing a 1/4-3/4 oz heavy pitching stick so pulling a 3oz, 5-bait rig isn’t going to be fun. I had to lob it to cast in the first place.

Hi gents, what’s your usual follow up bait for chasers that don’t take? A small soft swim bait like a keitech is usually ‘on the deck’ for me for that purpose. Yesterday though I had a chaser that followed an a-rig to the boat but turned when he got close. I didn’t have anything else good rigged so threw the a-rig back through a few times with different retrieves without luck. But it made me think what other options there could be worth keeping tied on for that occasion. thansk rick p.s. I could see liking a Alabama rig. That was my first time throwing it and I didn’t have the right rod in the boat for that weight but will next time (it’s already tied up).

The Bucoo SR 6'10" rods are great rods (just fished my 6 power last night) and right at $100 (10% off lots of places for first time orders also). Can't tell you how it skips though as I spent a half hour trying to figure it out and still haven't gotten there. thanks rick

You'll have up front costs to factor in. At a minimum, a rod dryer and a thread wrapper, various tools, finishes and threads, etc that are all used for more than just one rod. So the first rod probably isn't going to be cheaper. Also, on lower end rods the savings isn't worth the time unless you just can't get what you want in a commercial rod. As a hobby? Its great fun like tying your own flies, building your own lures, etc. Its always good to be self sufficient at the things you enjoy doing. Higher end rods are a different story. You can go really high end in a custom rod that you build yourself and be around half or less for a comparable factory rod.

Ha! I was thinking the same thing. I imagine there must be a 30 degree swing between the san diego lakes and the sierras. On the assumption of colder my first suggestion was going to be a chatterbait (maybe even a jackhammer!) but...

12 and under here (NJ) must wear them on any boat. Over 12 and you don't have to wear one on any boat. That's the baseline law. Some lakes, state parks, or other places will require PFD use so you have to check for the place you're at.

for sure. A half a dozen wraps or so past the end of the guide foot. The thread itself is pretty light, but the finish has to cover it and that will add a bit of weight. Since you're going for minimal, every little helps. Like Mick said, permagloss is (I think) the lightest finish to get a full coating, but It takes too many coats for me. I'm a 2-part epoxy guy with the first coat just enough to wet the wraps and fill the tunnels. because I didn't know about it? I've been out of the game for a while (I lived in the UK and had no reason to build much of anything).

if it were mine I’d be looking at SiC Ti framed guides. I’ll take the slight weight penalty for what I think are the best guides ever made (at least that I’ve built with).

Mudhole elite-X 7’ 1/16-3/8 ML F. https://mudhole.com/collections/mhx-elite-x-rod-blanks/products/mhx-70-med-light-elite-x-rod-blank-np842-mhx i don’t know the blank but it seems about what you want. I’m sure there are others but I’ve not built in a while so don’t know everything out there.

If you are strictly going for weight I think you’ll come in around 2.5oz, maybe even 2oz if you’re careful. You can get a blank around 1.2 oz for the length and power. An amtak bravos or wave seat is going to be minimal weight and if you use a carbon bushing it adds next to nothing. I’d guess a half ounce or so. You’re definitely going split grip, so just a rear tiny butt needed for a quarter ounce. For absolute lightest weight I think a set of small recoil guides would be the lightest. A set of small fly guides for the running guides plus 3 recoil spinning guides would be around 0.05 oz. You’ll have epoxy and adhesives, winding check or two, hook keeper if you want. I think you’d be just over 2 ounces. all that said, light weight is great but just make sure the compromises you’re making are still fishable for you. A little heavier of a reel seat or rear grip doesn’t change the fishability and might even pull the tip up in use. thanks rick

I just got the expert amistad for frogging and punching. I haven’t used it for frogs yet but its going to be great for it. I fished it with a heavy spinnerbait and it feels really good. It might be a bit heavy if you’re going to fish open-ish water and walk the frog but it would get it done. Next trip out I’m going to use that rod for an a-rig as I think it would be good for it also.

The kayak has a semi fibrous semi foam bottom that is hard to describe other than- it gets wet. Wet means it soaks up the slime and smell. I picked up a wet suit cleaner to get rid of the funk smell and it works. I just leave the plugs in a fill up the boat with an inch of water to let it soak. Pull the plug and rinse it out.

on the free navionics website you can choose sonar chart or navionics mapping. It’s one of the map options.

when you say overlaid with google earth, do you mean for the land based items or for seeing the google earth water photo with depth lines on it? The navionics website will take care of the first. I don't know a way to do the second. thanks rick

the salt in plastics will eat at some hooks, so I'd just inspect them before use. Pretty hard to rust through enough to make a jig hook unusable, but better be safe and check

And if Northerns are slimy for you, then you'd REALLY hate pickerel. They are called snot rockets for a reason.

That's all my dad throws still. He's upgraded reels a couple times but the rods are perfect for him (he's been doing it a LOOONG time and knows what he likes). He gave me his spare cranking rod (7', 3/8-3/4, MH MF) and I use it. Good rods.

I've read that too and don't see it happening. I've never had it happen or had a close call. On the Gen 3 STX it is impossible. They still have a physical screw to start with, not a switch. Then, the whole side plate has to twist 45 degrees while you hold the spring loaded screw out. If you don't know how to do it, you're going to struggle to get it off. The Gen 4 STX has a gull wing design with a hinge pin. You flip the switch on the back corner and the plate comes out about 1/4", then swings on the pin. it can't be removed easily. The Gen 4 SX (and the MGX for that matter) have the switch but no other locking mechanism. Flip the switch and you can pull the plate off. You'd have to clip the small switch on something without noticing and in one motion bump the rod/reel hard enough for it to pop loose. The switch isn't easy to slide accidentally and you'd have to have an odd hand position to do it inadvertently. thanks, rick