casts_by_fly

I class $250-$400 (MSRP) as the high end tier personally. Above that is ultra-premium and/or super specialized. My own tiers would be <$50 (budget), $50-$125 (entry), $125-$250 mid-tier, and the rest above. You could shift the numbers a little bit, but using MSRP and how the reels are marketed/compared at the consumer level, that translates into: cheapest possible for lowest cost consumer (budget) solid reels with cost compromises (cheaper materials, mass produced features) to hit the price point (entry) solid reels with fewer compromises and some high end features trickling down, usually from previous generations (mid-tier) premium reels with no compromises designed to perform at the highest levels (high end) Ultra premium reels with cutting edge materials, technology, or other features/design (ultra-premium) Not every reel will have the match of price point, consumer target, and features. I think the Abu garcia Revo MGX at $350 is way overpriced. Aside from the size/weight, you can get a better reel in the STX at $219 MSRP. Actual paid price brings another consideration into the mix. Is a $200 MGX on clearance a better reel than a $189 STX on sale? How do those compare to a $225 used Chronarch MGL? And all those questions are why we have a discussion forum here with a ga-gillion topics on "which reel" (which is good I think)?

Last week the fish liked a 3.8 Keitech. I started with supergluing it to the head. Then when the first half inch got tore up I nipped it off and had a 3.25 keitech. I fished that for a while and caught fish. When that got tore up I nipped the tip and had a 2.75 keitech. I didn't fish it anymore that day, but I did save it. I then fished it Sunday morning as a mini swim bait because there were some perch and crappie chasing. Its not on the rod anymore, but I still haven't thrown it away...

At $300 you're going to get a pretty high end reel so its a matter of preference and optimization. Which reels do you throw now? I have primarily Abu garcia, my did fishes Chronarchs. I picked up a used chronarch in the alf sale and its a great reel. I think I still prefer my STX though. The profile on the STX is a bit lower to the blank and feels better in my hand. The Chronarch is smoother to reel (I think the micromesh gears do that) and is a better reel, but the feel of the STX is better for me. Both cast a country mile with the same lure/rod/line (I've done some mix and match testing with half of my rods). If I could have the STX with the micromesh gears I'd be in heaven I think.

I just spent 6 hours or so as a back seat angler on my off side and pitching from 10’ to 75’. The rear grip did not matter.

this is a pretty good idea that I hadn’t considered. Ploppers don’t need action and just need to cast an incredibly easy to cast lure a long way. A 110 plopper will go a mile on any rod. It makes the rod a specialist, but I can work with that.

same here across the Hudson. This black bottom algae sucks for a lot of stuff. im thinking about more Tokyo rigs for swim baits with the weight half way up the metal rod to keep it a little higher.

A 1/4oz jig with a 3.8 keitech will be plenty on a MH baitcaster and is a favorite for me.

Lots of good advice already. I’m a dt convert. I have lots of 4/6/10/14 and a couple 20 plus the fat and OG series now. The dt series are good general year round baits. The OG are tighter wobble and great early season but also in pressured water or heavy cover. The dt fat are classic square bill wide wobble. Those three cover most everything for me. lipless are a different story and I just go red eye shad 1/2 oz. I have a few…

that is quite impressive. I took a day off and went home to my parents for a couple days (left Wednesday after work, worked Friday morning before coming home). My (retired, and picks his days) dad has a local lake that he fishes exclusively from the start of may until mid June because of TONS of smallmouth and plenty over 5 lb. Mostly it’s topwaters and just cast and catch. Since I kinda had to work around work we didn’t have optimal weather but we managed 11 with a bonus pike. None over 16” or so this time. But catching and big fish isn’t the point. When you’re fishing on a Thursday with your 68 year old dad guiding you, it’s not about the fish.

Just got my order of tremors, shot callers, and dredgers. They will all be wet Sunday or Monday. thanks, rick Why choose one?

I prefer not to have anything in front of the reel. No matter what lure I'm fishing, I will palm the reel and have my index finger on the blank. Cork just gets in the way or makes me reach further out to do it. On the back end, I don't mind either. For a pitching rod or a 'one hand casting' rod it makes no difference at all since the second hand never touches the rod. If I want a power casting setup then a full cork is better but I can work either way. Most of my rods are split since most of my rods are falcons but I have a bit of both.

Basically this for me. Throw in a Zako for a trailer (and take out the blade minnows for me) and you're there. I fish bluegill colors primarily since our water is usually clear and we don't have shad in a lot of lakes. Black and blue for dirty water. I fish a 1/2 oz almost exclusively (I do carry some 3/8 and ***/4 big blade). Before you order chatterbaits, go onto Siebert's website and get Tremors instead. They are the same price as a basic chatterbait but are a much better bait. The hooks are the sharpest hooks I've ever seen on a single hook bait. The wire tied skirts are awesome. And they have faster startup and more vibration than a standard CB. Zero downside.

If you don't already have one, pick up a weedless wedge MK prop. Versus the standard prop, the WW prop has a larger blade surface and different pitch. There is also a lot of edge curvature on the blades. All of it adds up to the prop pushing weeds away rather than wrapping them. It makes a huge difference on my motor. I also put a ninja blade on mine, but have yet to test it in weeds since I only just put it on and we don't have surface weeds here just yet. rick

Rod blanks can be repaired most of the time. The closer to the tip, the harder the repair to get right. That last 6" is really tricky because there is so much bending happening there on every cast. Done successfully with just the right diameter oversleeve you'll get it back to 95%. That said, unless the rod is high end or sentimental (or you have the ability to do it yourself plus a wide supply of fiberglass blanks to choose from) it probably isn't worth getting it repaired.

Same lake, same day (this past Saturday). Some with, some without.

Very nice. That's a real hog. Sounds like a nice week of fishing. I do miss Erie.

I have the AP and have to say that spotlock is awesome. Between the PDL and MK, I'd probably go pdl. Top speed will be about the same in both. The PDL will be lighter because of no motor housing and no battery. Also no registration required. The PDL will give you hands free movement (forward and back) while fishing, the MK obviously will do it without effort. With either boat you're going to want an anchor from what I see on the Old town groups. If you intend to upgrade to an xi3 later, I would just get the AP now. Buy your last one first and enjoy it longest. Its a bigger boat but it is incredibly capable. thanks, rick

Hi guys, my dad needs a new trolling motor. He has an older motorguide that parts aren’t available for anymore. He has a small aluminum at 12v and his no interest in 24v motors. He also has a lowrance hook with sidescan. He’s looking at the xi5 and for the life of me I can’t find anything definitive whether his Hook will be able to use the build in transducer for sidescan. I think down and 2d are a yes, but what about side? He has the triple shot transducer on the transom right now but would like it up front so he isn’t 20’ behind when he sees something. Anyone have an xi5 running sidescan with the built in transducer? thanks rick

Cold, nasty, and wet today. 15-20 mph winds, steady rain. Might as well go fishing then! Since there wouldn’t be pleasure boats out, I went to the big lake and practically had it to myself. It was hard going with the wind, but spotlock was helpful to keep the kayak in place. Managed 4 bass up to 2.5 lb, a 13” crappie and a 13” perch. Not bad for a couple hours on a lake that flummoxed me for bass last year.

If you don’t have brush, grass, or dock cables then no need for a guard.

The AP doesn’t have much. There is a 6” hatch in the front to access the motor electronics. I put my spare prop on the hatch retaining cord. under the seat there is another hatch that is inside the hull. It’s an access hatch again but a bit of Velcro and you can keep a small battery there. Some guys instead have found plastic tubs of the right size to fit it. It’s not convenient to access on the water though so also not useful. It’s just enough for me to tuck away a battery and wires.

Even for super clear water? I've always thought firetiger as gawdy and when we have 10' visibility at times (mostly its 6-8') I just thought it would be a bit much. Stained water sure. thanks rick

I'm also running lithium for both batteries (80 AH and 30 AH) to save weight. There was no question on that when starting from a boat as heavy as mine and truck bedding it. I started with a 10 AH lead for the fish finder, but too many times I had the power drop out after 4 hours so I needed more battery power. I decided on the 30 AH because it wasn't much more expensive than an 18 (about $75 at the time) and the extra power is a nice backup to have. I have a shunt to connect it to the main motor in case of emergency and for days when I am fishing back to back to back with minimal charge time I can devote the full charger to the main battery. I went with a 5 amp charger so I could use the same for both, but that means the main battery takes just a little longer. If I come in late after a long fishing day, I can leave it overnight and get back to full for the early morning while the 30 AH still has plenty to go another day or two. I also power my Nav lights from it which don't take a ton of power but that I'll leave them on all day in some busy lakes. I like a clean, flat deck as I stand to fish so I have the 30 AH inside the hull and all of the wires are internally routed. I have charger cords permanently mounted to the batteries so I just plug the charger directly in without taking anything out or opening any hatches. thanks rick

It is a trout stocked lake? There are a couple lakes around here where you'll get that picture this time of year and a lot of time it is fresh stocked trout that haven't figured out life yet.

Yeah, you just have to start casting and find what works for you. One way to simplify things is to stick with a particular brand. At least within a brand the ratings are normally consistent. I went Falcon and I have a pretty good idea what any of their rods are going to feel like now. I can buy blind and be confident in what I'm getting.