casts_by_fly

The weedless wedge on the terrova is a bigger total prop than the one for the AP. And it’s 55# thrust. I think it will be much of a wash speed wise. I said it in another thread, but this is basically a 55# terrova with a cut down shaft. And the terrovas are great motors.

I don’t worry about pickerel biting me off. We have tons and I’ve caught tons of them while bass fishing. I can’t recall a single bite off. This was 10# supernatural, maybe the last thing you’d want to ward against bite offs-small diameter super soft mono. Yes, that’s the bait completely choked.

@A-Jay - These lake fork magic shiners should be right up your alley also. Very similar profile and action to a zako, but they are a bit lighter in weight and a little more durable. The 3.5" is what I put on a minimax. This was a BR recco to me in the first place. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Lake_Fork_Live_Magic_Shad_Swimbait/descpage-LFLMS.html?from=gpmax&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhYS_BhD2ARIsAJTMMQbltmrwqwzMzAOLhqHeQXIKoeHT6NptSzy8HPyelPlOYFbULAzGSS0aAtreEALw_wcB I'm going to have to try that. I have a few ned bombs for fishing on a ned setup but never considered them for a trailer. I bet they would be great as a finesse jig trailer as well.

I also use the 4 as my standard, but when it’s not working and I know it should be I’ll drop to the mid size or even the small one (3”). I carry the magnum as well but they are big. Sometimes you just have to listen to the fish.

If it’s 95% of the way there I’d roll with it (for mono). I change my mono mid season usually so when the 95% is low from cutoffs I’ll strip and refill. For braid or high end fluoro, if I came up short but had enough to fish, I’d reel it onto another reel, add some more backing, and reel it back on.

In a kayak or walking the bank you have a limited carrying capacity. So you need to consider rods that are versatile generally. And then if you need a specific thing you can add it. For my own lakes the way I like to fish and fishing out of a kayak which carried 5 rods, I would always have two of my rods every trip- 6’10” fast 1/4-3/4 and 7’4” fast 1/2-1. I could throw most anything that I regularly fish with those two rods. Most of my lakes are grassy after may so treble hooks are tough most of the year. Depending on the lake and season I’d add in a crankbait rod early season, a frog rod from June, a heavier pitching stick around the same time, a spinning rod for either ffs or neds. If you don’t have heavy cover, you could skip the pitching stick and frog rods. If you like finesse fishing then you need a second spinning rod. So like said above, how do you like to fish and what rods support that?

yeah, I’ve fixed them in a few places already and they are good after fixing them. But it’s a real pain to do it.

Thanks! I was never in it in the first place. I have no interest in tournaments other than to track the local ones so that I’m not on the same lakes the day of a tournament. thanks! It should be really good in the water. We’ll see later this week. it’s a LOT of pavers. The pad in front of the garages is 3-car wide plus buffer and 30’ from garage door to grass. Then there is a 100’ x 10’ driveway to the road (plus another 5’x60’ sidewalk to the front door). And then before we redid the back porch it was all pavers also- 100’ x 40’. If you’re ever making a choice, don’t choose pavers. The original owner put them in (at what must have been incredible cost). They move. The paver base erodes away with heavy rain. Blowing snow on pavers is awful because they aren’t level and the skids catch all of the time. And more pressing here is that I have two dips from tire tracks getting into my middle garage bay. The pavers are a solid 2” lower than the concrete. To get the boat into the garage I have to line it up and get a head of steam to roll it over the lip. If you miss, it’s like the bowling ball arcade game where you're stuck in the divot. For sure, the next 60 degree sunny day we get I am pulling up a couple dozen pavers and relaying them into new paver base.

Hi all, I have an unused piranhamax 4 that was a takeoff from the new boat. It was dash mounted but never used. No box, but I have everything else with it. Product webpage is below. I can snap some pictures if you want to confirm what I have. It’s a neat little unit if you just want 2d/depth/temp. $75 shipped. https://humminbird.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/fish-finders/piranhamax/piranhamax-4

The jdm stradic is the obvious starting point. Just do it and don’t think twice.

I do at times. Moss boss, weed walker, talking spoon, and another weedless spoon type lure I don’t talk about.

for megalive 1, each click was 10 degrees. There was a mark for ‘forward’ which was nominally 50. But in the head unit you could select what angle you were at.

If it’s scummy, then a frog or toad for obvious reasons. I’ve preferred toads, though my strike rate goes down. a walking bait in the spring (I should fish them more through the year) is a thing for me. I get a lot of grass in a lot of my lakes though so that makes them tough in places. A buzz bait is my June to September top water as long as I can get it through the grass, and especially in the dark. A light but big buzz bait crawled slowly might be my favorite way to fish. I carry poppers, ploppers, and other top waters but fish them less.

Happy gotcha day! It fits. Just. I put rods, gear, and tackle in as a start. It fits basically exactly what I thought it would. About a dozen rods in the locker, about a dozen 3700s, a half dozen 3600s, and a couple speed bags. Tools, safety equipment, etc fits under the seats. I’ll get some more and better pictures the first day on the water

Yeah, we have a utility line out back. It’s a 100’ wide line and they are entitled to cut any tree that is dead or damaged within 25’ and any elm within 50’. They did a big clear out two summers ago and knocked down a couple big oaks on the back of mine. Talking with the guys, the line is a backup connector if the lines elsewhere go down. the main lines aren’t the big problem. It’s the ones along the roads. There are too many miles to get them all unless the homeowners do their part too.

this is the situation here. Our street is buried since it was a 2005 development. But at the bottom of the street it emerges and goes to a pole. Just in time to run 300 yards along the road through the woods. And the power has to come from somewhere that isn’t the main power line. We have had a lot of emerald ash borer here such that every ash tree is a dead tree standing. The utilities cut ones that are imminently near the lines but there are so many more that aren’t cut that are close enough to fall on them. People with trees near lines don’t want to cut them because they think the utility should (its landowner responsibility) but then the same people complain when trees take out lines and they lose power.

I’ll tell you tomorrow. On the kayak I ran a lithium to a fuse box. Coming out I had individual circuits for nav lights, helix, and motor puck but it was all in and out of the same fuse panel and common negative. The charging cable also ran back through the same panel. Since I disconnected the fish finder every trip I didn’t worry about a main breaker switch. on the boat picking up tomorrow it should be what your describing except I don’t think it has the 30 amp breaker on the way to the fuse box.

yeah, maybe just camera angle. Here’s two quick pics from ranger and the axle is under the back of the seat more or less. That’s exactly where it is on your second picture. But these two have minimal boat behind that whereas the pro-v looks like it has 2-3’ more deck back there. And then with a 200 tilted up it looks like it’s a looong way back. I’m sure from a weight perspective Lund designed it so it’s is just right and I’m going to guess that the gas tank is under the seats or close to it since that’s a lot of weight. Just a weird and random thing to see and think.

I’ve never noticed it before but the pro-v looks oddly out of proportion with just a single axle and as far forward as it is. I’m sure it’s right, but any idea what your tongue weight % is? I’d think with a big motor and poles that the axle should be further back. can’t wait for the first trip report. Hope you get a morning like last year with the glassy water.

its a neat boat. Though at that price I bet some would prefer a 120 pdl as the base so you have two propulsions. The inbuilt storage of the tactical is neat, though the whole thing is verging on being a plastic boat and not a kayak (fine line, I know). Alas, my autopilot has been gone for two weeks now so I’m no longer in the kayak game.

it looks a lot like an SSR from amtak. https://mudhole.com/products/crb-ssr-light-duty-tip-top-guides-model-xlt

yeah, the new one is just an ipilot link terrova with a cut down shaft. It makes sense to have it and that will do a lot of the things that people have asked of the autopilot. It’s the 55# thrust plus link. i don’t see this as a good pair with the epdl. The extra $1500 adds weight and only gives spotlock/navigate. If you’re buying new, then you get the regular pdl and add the terrova. There isn’t a standard paddle pro which would be an even better choice to minimize cost and get spotlock. But if the aftermarket mounting plate works then a 120 paddle is $1k and the terrova is $1500. That’s spotlock and then some for $2500, and around $3k once you add battery and box, mount, etc. That would be seriously tempting.

And now we know how black and blue can be a match the hatch color. Nice chunker!

Price and weight. I have a bass pro ultralight that has them also. Mine is a cheaper rod and the guides are just fine. They are light weight because instead of inserting a ceramic ring (and the cost of the ring plus the cost of forming the frame) it is more or less just a polished frame that you can do in one step.

Yeah that would do it. The steel of the eye is harder than the stainless eyelet. You need a new tiptop and to stop reeling lures up into the rod tip.