Jump to content

MOYO Bassin

Members
  • Posts

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MOYO Bassin

  1. For the purposes of fishing the gel super glue is a lot easier to use and holds better because it can hold its shape and doesn’t make a thin film however because traditional super glue is so minimally viscous it can get in the microscopic nooks and crannies of things effectively increasing the surface area it is engaging with which makes it drastically stronger than gel super glue.
  2. Yes the comparison to a FBD checks out perfectly and hard bends certainly are the Demise of any knot. Shock vs static pressure is also something that changes many things and part of the reason of my original concern is that at one point another unintentional shock will be placed upon line. Really what it comes down to is that I like to get the wheels turning being an engineering student and try to break down what is the reasoning behind why some knots work in certain ways and some work in others all to ultimately achieve the same goal, not breaking under load of varying kinds. Tying a knot correctly is huge. For all I know a crossed palomar might be weaker than a correctly tied clinch which kills the point of even having a strong knot. Tying whatever knot you choose correctly can’t be overstated.
  3. I’m not extremely educated on the topic (only a bit of cruising the web, probably should dig into it a bit more), but from what I’ve understood cinching pressure required to seat a knot doesn’t really apply to the term “high or low pressure knot”, the way that the force is dispersed throughout a knot when applied is what determines the association. The direction of the force doesn’t really matter, for example both a snell, cinch, uni, sdj, or any other multi wrap knot work by dispersing force applied to the mainline by having many wraps that compress as pressure is applied, which applies a low amount of pressure to each wrap within what ultimately makes up the entire knot. On the contrary a knot like a palomar or something else of a similar sort (can’t really think of another) works by having the extra loop that the hook passes through act as the end all be all of the knot so besides the half hitch portion of the knot and the loop that the hook passes through there aren’t any extra wraps to disperse force as it is applied. Now with a mono or supple fluoro the snap of a slack line hookset (which is ineffective for many reasons but I won’t delve into that) doesn’t really apply a massive surge of force in comparison to a stiff fluoro which is where it seems like issues arise. When a low stretch fluoro is made into a palomar and shocked by a slack line set or other event, even when cinched to nearly the breaking point, the knot is held under high pressure and almost explodes like glass when enough pressure is reached, this happens because the knot cuts into itself(my theory is that the wrap that the hook goes through basically rips through the beefy part of the knot and explodes it based on how I’ve seen them break just trying to break them in hand in varying ways). Now the thing is that a palomar tests out higher than other knots on a slow pull and anytime that pressure is applied in a way that doesn’t shock the line, the knot it is immensely strong. Whether the added security of slack line and surging fish shock protection warrants tying a low pressure knot is something I’m still trying to figure out (also especially with big baits it gets old cutting a few feet of line off every time but ultimately is something that doesn’t bother me because it’s necessary). Now I know that I’m overthinking this but it is fun to hear what people think about both my overthinking and some objective stuff about knots from a few. Yup, the crossing of lines is the death of a knot. If I ever see that it’s cut off and redone immediately without question. As far as knot strength goes I’ve seen before that any doubled knot or doubled around the hook eye knot will test higher than its single wrap counterpart. (Diminishing returns with super heavy line but that’s not very bass related) I’ve just heard it on a few videos from tuna and a few other guys, it’s possible that it’s a descriptor that they came up with without substantive evidence but the way they described it made sense. Not sure if I’d even be able to find where I heard it anymore but the concept at least in my mind checks out.
  4. A high pressure knot has fewer wraps generally speaking and relies on the knot almost locking itself into place like a palomar does opposed to a low pressure cinching knot that uses a large amount of wraps to disperse force over a larger distance and doesn’t have the same inherent locking characteristics.
  5. I don’t have issues with breaking either but I like to mess around trying to maximize knot strength. I tie an fg for leaders, improved snell for punching, a palomar for braid, and that modified miller for everything else I agree with the snell for braid
  6. So I’ve heard it described before that low pressure knots (uni, trilene, San Diego jam, pitzen, etc) are better at shock absorption than a high pressure knot like a palomar(which unless cinched to near the breaking point to lock in the wraps even still has a good chance of cutting itself), although will often test out slightly lower on a straight pull because of reasons that I can theorize but can’t verify. Now my question is whether utilizing a triple wrap around the hook eye like an AG chain knot does which tests out at 100% (apparently) is something that would make sense on generic cinch knots so that you could maintain the smaller profile of a traditional single wrap above the wraps around the hook eye, instead of having the hulking 3 tag knot that is a doubled cinch style knot, but get the added strength of 3 wraps around the hook eye like the AG chain has while mitigating the 15 or whatever half hitches you would have to do with that knot. I use the palomar on baits where I’m going to be making a sweeping hookset, on drop shots, and also in cases with slower pressure changes or braid (braid is not the topic here though) which doesn’t feel the effects like a nylon or fluoro. Instead I use a miller knot which is basically a trilene that cinches even more tightly due to some fancy wrapping (a tournament angler showed me a similar knot after which I searched it up then found an improvement which is the miller knot). With that being said, my knot is different, I use 3 wraps around the hook shank, which forces you to be more careful to wrap under or over depending on where the mainline is so as not to bunch up on one side of the knot but keep it balanced over the center, and it seems to improve strength noticeably once the cinching section is properly locked down over the traditional double wrapped miller. Any thoughts on the 3 wraps around the hook eye vs a palomar or a doubled cinch knot after my long essay, haha?
  7. I don’t care about the way a bait looks at all or the price as long as I have enough money from working to keep buying them. All that matters to me is that I’ve got the best possible version of a bait in my hand that I can. I’ve been reading forums here for a good while. Just never decided to contribute until now. This is my logic too, a brief glance gives a lot of info if you can visualize what the components will do. With that being said the water, and ultimately fish are always the proving grounds. There are plenty of baits with a “stupid looking action” that get bit like no other even against what would seem like “better judgement” from the eyes of an angler.
  8. Already caught a 6.26 this spring on a spinnerbait and have gotten a fish over 6 on one for the past 3 years unless I’m miscounting. Thought I would treat myself to a proper spinnerbait.
  9. What's admirable about the jackal super eruption spinnerbaits? From what I've looked at just from a brief scan it seems like their wire is the big selling point.
  10. They certainly are expensive and I’m sure if I break a few off I won’t be buying many more soon but I do think that there certainly is a downward curve on the return on investment for a bait of this price but they do seem better even with that curve being the case. I guess I’ll have to report back with what I figure out since to no surprise not many people have them.
  11. So I know that certain spinnerbaits often get cult followings so sometimes people are a bit jaded, but I'd be interested to hear if anyone has fished the deps B custom spinnerbaits. I have one and they seem to be the highest quality spinnerbait hardware wise that I've ever used, and to top that off they also seem to have some of the best movement and vibration that I've experienced. What are you guys' thoughts and experiences with it?
  12. That makes a lot of sense, I definitely can see the reasoning there. Also yes the shipping is insane.
  13. I hardly know anything about custom rods so I’m all ears. If you think there’s a better blank with the specs I want then tell me.
  14. I’m thinking about having a rod builder (does anyone know of a good builder within a few hours of Fresno?) make an 8’6” - 9’ custom swimbait rod on a phenix blank. I’m currently looking at the black diamond series and within that specifically the 869 or 909 blank with fast actions. I’m looking for a slightly faster leaning mod fast although it doesn’t really seem like they have the exact one in the size range I want so I’ll settle with what’s listed above. Additionally for guides I’d like to do a spiral wrap and use as small of guides, and as few guides, as I can get away with, I run a very small fg knot on 20 lb diameter Fluoro to a 50 lb braid mainline. The last part of my long ramble is that I’d like to throw deps 250s on this rod so if anyone can weigh in on how these blanks do with them that would be great. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.