JbroBass

Yes I've bought from Nako a couple of times with no issues. And I also bought from Siebert, mentioned just down thread. Also very good. I think you have that backwards and it's as long as they are not individually UNDER 1 ounce. My state of NH prohibits any use of lead for fishing equipment. This includes weights and even lures like spinnerbaits, jigs, and chatterbaits.

I've had multiple guys at my local kayak outfitter tell me they no longer bring a paddle. They are using motors. I use a motor too, but would never intentionally go out without my paddle.

Just open your photo, use the snipping tool to copy it, and then paste it into the posting window.

Years ago on the Merrimack River when fishing for shad with small shad darts, we discovered that striped bass absolutely loved them. Mostly schoolies, but even some bigger ones. All we ever used for stripers after that were Shad Darts and Kastmasters.

Not sure what you mean? The unit is mounted to the top of a Cell Block. So the cables are mostly coiled up and held with a cable tie, except the bit that goes inside the Cell Block to connect to the battery. On the positive wire inside the Cell Block I wired in an inline fuse holder for the 3 AMP fuse that Hummingbird recommends. And on the ends of the positive and negative wire I crimped a female quick connect which slide onto the "flat" style battery terminals. Edit: Sorry you are asking about the main battery and motor. Yes, I keep my main battery in the back of the kayak and had a plug installed back there. Then had a plug installed up front for the motor. The wiring is internal. This is working great. My issue is with the wiring for the Hummingbird to a smaller dedicated battery.

Thanks, I appreciate that! I will let you know how things go once I give it another shot. I did purchase a proper crimping tool, but my lack of experience was likely the problem. I also did a poor job matching up the wire gauges. For example, the wire gauge on the inline fuse holder was much thicker than the fish finder wire. I've bought some new components now that are more closely matched. Having said all that, I believe the issue is actually right at the battery. My battery has those flat connectors (sorry I do not know the correct name) and therefore I crimped on quick connects which slide onto the flat connectors. But I do not believe those quick connectors are meant to slide off and on regularly, and I think they've already loosened. I'm think I'm going to utilize something like this now for the both the unit and the charger: With these, I can leave the connection in place at the battery. Having said that, I'm still not sure what the best connection to my battery leads is. (Quick connectors, alligator clips, something else?)

I'm not sure why this thread was moved to tackle when the primary ask is help identifying areas to target based on the topo, but I hope it will get just as many eyeballs and ultimately won't matter that it's here rather than in the general forum.

That would be great! Don't rush though as I'm heading on vacation later this week and won't be able to work on it for 3 weeks or so. (Although I could order the parts some time before then.) My first priority now is trying to get the wiring correct for the fish finder. I tried the crimping method of wire joining, but I'm already having problems. One of the connections must be loose. Guess I need to figure out how to solder. I get why Hummingbird doesn't finish the connecting ends, but I can't believe they don't pre install an inline fuse holder in the wiring since that is recommended for every application.

I have to try something like this because I have the same problem with mine.

There is a dam and maybe it was quarried. The weird thing is that the dam is located at the bottom left (southeastern) side of the lake. So the side with the dam is the super shallow side, which seems odd but perhaps quarrying explains that. I've tried searching for the history of the lake, but can't find anything. Maybe I'll stop in at the historical society and see if the know anything. (Don't think that will help with the fishing, but I'm just curious about it.) The water clarity appears to be about 4 feet, perhaps a bit more. The spots I've fished the bottom so far all quickly foul a bait on the bottom (like a t-rigged worm) with a kind of slimy weed. That's why I switched to a drop shot, so only the weight gets fouled and not the lure.

I bought a camper and put it on a seasonal site on this lake, but so far I'm getting my butt kicked. I started out catching dinks, and they have only gotten smaller from there. I've mostly tried spinner baits and drop shotting a little Keitech and a finesse worm. I got out with my side imaging unit for the first time last week, but didn't see much of interest on the bottom. And when I look at the topo, I'm stumped. It's a weird lake! Any pointers about where you would start (and why) would be appreciated. The very shallow south side of the lake is all mud bottomed. There are some weeds but we are talking very shallow water. The shorelines of the deeper parts are more rocky. I haven't been able to identify deep weedlines or anything like that yet. I'm probably going to use autochart soon and see what I can draw. Here is where I've concentrated my efforts so far. Here is the full map: https://webapp.navionics.com/?lang=en#boating@13&key=wc_gGb~qpL I usually focus on points but this lake doesn't seem to have any! IDK but any thoughts about your approach would be appreciated. I hear there are both LM and SM but it sure seems like primarily LM territory to me.

Something you read while waiting for the pay phone booth to be free.

Basically the same fate almost every (maybe every) magazine has suffered. (Sub different sponsors but same deal.)

I would try ripping a Kastmaster spoon sized to the baitfish through the area where they are boiling. This is deadly for schoolies feeding in tidal rivers on the east coast.

I guess that would make it ok to cut right across the stern of their boat as they pass by then? This isn't about rights to the water as much as just plain common courtesy.

I just started using a binder system. Each "page" has 2 pockets, and most of my plastics fit into the pockets between 2 and 4 deep. I think I have at least 30 packs of crawfish, worms, and minnows in there. I'm looking for some single pocket pages for the bigger plastic baits.

Just yesterday I had a pontoon boat at speed pass between my kayak and the shoreline (which I was obviously casting to) like 75 feet away. They gave a polite wave though lol.

As Alfred Montaner would say: "Bloop Bloop Bloop."

I assumed the nose would point forward as that seems like it would produce the least resistance in the water. Here is mine. I assumed where I put the asterisk is the front of the transducer, and it should be mounted with the front side forward with the direction of travel indicated by the arrow. Do you think my assumption is correct? (It is surprising difficult to search for the correct answer.)

Is forward "wire in front" or "wire in back"? (I mounted mine with the wire in the back and the rounded smaller side facing forward. That seemed to me to make the most sense but I have no idea if it was correct.) I had all kinds of problems trying to use this thing the last couple of days, but I haven't used anything modern and nothing at all for +20 years so I guess that's probably to be expected.

Caught my very first bass on a baitcaster two weeks ago when picking up the line after clearing a minor backlash! Not sure what I would have done if I noticed the fish when still picking at the tangle.

If he tried that up here in the Northeast he might have gotten tossed in the lake. So I would say you were actually a nice guy!

Are you saying your credit card was hacked after using it through PayPal at TW? That means PayPal would have to have been hacked and not TW, because PP does not share your account info with merchants.

Sounds like perhaps a Sucker.

Ok, I think they gave me the true scoop now. You need to be connected to an external Heading Sensor in order to see and enable the heading line under the Navigation menu. I think the Course Projection Line will probably be sufficient for my purposes, which is basically to line the boat up with marked waypoints as I approach them. But I guess the Heading Line will keep working (once you have a sensor) even when the boat is stopped, while the Course Projection Line won't. But if I look at landmarks as I approach the waypoints with the Course Projection Line, I think it will work fine for me. Does anybody that has experience with a Heading Sensor have any feedback regarding my approach?