It can certainly be done but getting cork to fit well if it is installed from the butt can be tricky, especially the front grip. Good luck!
You do not need the dryer clutch.
Epoxy adhesive for the parts is not the same as epoxy thread coating. You need both.
I've built several and they are fine . . .
1. Real good prices when on sale
2. May take a few weeks to receive an order rather than a few days
3. They are hard to compare to one another using the manufacturer line/lure and power/action ratings (CCS helps)
In general there is no coating you can use to repair, a break needs either internal or external sleeve reinforcement (or both). The damaged area looks at least a few inches long and I would not even try to fix it.
Pros: less weight including finish and better line control with braid
Cons: may need more to keep line off the blank, may hinder line flow with mono/fluoro, may ice or clog from stuff in water, and my favorite, hard to run line through in low light conditions!
Cut back the EVA and the grip tenon in 1/16" increments until it fits flush. Without a lathe it may be difficult to get a straight cut on the EVA. I've never had your case but often the butt cap is larger than the grip with CFX carbon fiber from Mud Hole.
In the MHX line that meet your price target I think you want SJ842 or MB842 for the lower part of your weight range. I use the SJ842 for unweighted flukes or 1/16-1/8 oz shank weight hooks and shad type plastics.
0.057" = 3.5/64 so size 4 tube will be fine.
I have some old Fuji tips (model MCAT I think) with a 2.2mm ID ring but don't know if available any more.
CRB LZR tips in size 4 have a 2.5mm ID ring so PLZT-4-4 from Mud Hole.
Easy to replace with tip top hot melt glue or just plain 5-minute epoxy.
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.