Chris Catignani

Its the same bridge...one from the side, one from the front.

Dont shy away from fishing a jerk bait over the top of it.

Not knowing anything about the equipment your using...I will say that sometimes the fish just gets off...and sometimes the line breaks.

Agreed...Like I mentioned earlier...I am always needing to mix a second batch...either for a decal, a hook keeper, cross wraps are notorious for needing two coats.

This is how it usually goes for me...regardless of what type of finish I use. I will apply what I consider a good "covering" coat. This is typically on the thinner side. Once that coat cures...there is always an area where the thread is barley peeking through finish. I will apply a second thin coat and that is usually good enough. I have in the past put on a thick first (and only) coat...but it seems like there is always something else that needed epoxy too and end up mixing a second batch anyway. So I find that using two coats is a just good idea. ...on a side note. Ever since I started using the sealing caps I have been using various measurements of resin and hardener: 2cc each, 1cc each and even .5cc each. The caps let me invert the bottle and get whatever amount of resin/hardener I think I might need. I didn't always do this...for the longest time I just used 3cc each. The thinking was that if I miss measured by say .1cc of a 3cc mix...then the error would be .03% as opposed to .1cc of 1cc mix (.1% error). But I feel like the syringes are very accurate.

I agree a dryer is big...I also think having a set of reamers is big too.

Not necessarily my favorite fishing spot...but on this morning I captured this very pronounce sundog.

For many, many years, I just mixed it thoroughly, in the cup, for two minutes and then applied it. The epoxy's long set up time, and a short burst with the hair dryer, would make what air bubbles I had release. But, let me be crystal clear on this (pun intended) a mixer is the way to go.

I have to agree....nothing worse than getting up early....driving to the ramp only to find a tournament launching...and its getting worse.

Good to hear that.

One of the problems I've seen from North Fork is that they wont do an exchange...but will issue a refund.

There are cases where you can repair it...that may be more than you want to do. You can always dedicate that as a "guest" rod. Rodbuilding.org - Rod Repair by Ralph O'Quinn

I think the most important thing is the rod wrapper. The base and the thread carriage are pretty key. Then after that...I personally have a bunch of different epoxy I use...then the list goes on...

I fish on Priest...Some of these bass boats a flying up lake...driver looking at the T.V. Its not real safe...even if you in a boat.

I have that CB72-8/15...Im throwing a Paddle Tail bait I make with it. But really love that Bushido line of rods.

It think everyone hit on some the key things. The water temperature just needs to be consistently over sixty to sixty-five degrees.

I am lovin that blank...I also have MHX CB843 and love that one too. Thinking back on all the years I've wasted with the wrong crank bait rods...

Yeah...I really dont get the ridges. Its basically a by product of the process. A finishing step that gets skipped.

Looks like my kinda spot...a lot of skinny water to just get there. Above that looks amazing too...

Ah...I stand corrected. (from the article) "Nevertheless I inadvertently went ahead and made the internal plug 2 inches long."

@MickD posted the set of instructions for the repairs...this is pretty much what I have followed for years. One thing I want to point out is in red and bold in this section... Number 2. The break shown last time was in an area that will not see much flexure or bending. Under heavy load, the rod at this point will be mostly straight, except when casting the line. The act of casting is probably the peak load that this repair will ever see. As we go further up the rod the bending becomes more severe. The break in No. 2 is about 14 inches from the tip. The bending moment is more pronounced in this area. Your sleeve needs to be slightly longer in order to accommodate the longer moment arm and slightly stiffer sections being joined. So increase the length of this sleeve to about 1 & 1/2 inch to 1 & 3/4 inch over all, which will mean that about 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch on each end will be structure. Don't forget the tapered ends. The bend moment on this area will be quite severe. Maybe enough for the graphite sections to rupture the low modulus sleeve even though it is wrapped and coated. To counter this shearing force, we will install a very small piece of either fiberglass or graphite on the INSIDE. This piece must fit snugly, and be about 1/4 inch long. If it is any longer it will be involved in the bending force and we don't want that. Be sure that this piece is in place before you position the outer sleeve. When the adhesive is cured, the sleeve is cleaned up and wrapped and finished like any guide or ferrule. Grasp the rod about a foot on each side of the repair sleeve and bend it into an arc with the repair in the center of the arc. The arc should be constant - no noticeable flat spot at the sleeve location. If there is a noticeable flat spot, then your sleeve is either too long or too heavy, i.e., too thick a wall section. I have to believe that this is a typo...1/4 inch for an inside stint is way too short. Looking at the photo(#3) as it sits...if the outer sleeve is 2 inches...the inner sleeve looks to be at least 1.5 inches.

Im with @ike8120. I have used a lot of different boxes through out the years. This one is the best...mainly because it fits in storage locker like all the other boxes.