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Kellss

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Everything posted by Kellss

  1. Bass fishing can be as simple, or as complicated as we want to make it. I think we're all guilty of falling into the trap of overthinking, whether in fishing or our personal lives. You see someone catching bass when you're struggling and immediately think about what they're throwing and whether you should change your lure. I know for myself I fall into that category. I put way too much thought into the specifics of lures that probably mean very little to the bass. That said, there is still some logic behind certain decisions we make as bass anglers - color and profile being a big one. The general rules are clear water = natural colors (greens, browns, etc.) and natural profiles (texas rigs, jerkbaits, etc.), while stained/dirty water = bold colors (blacks, blues, etc.) and more exaggerated profiles (big jigs, chatterbaits, etc.). This is obviously very general and can change based on conditions, what you're throwing, etc. However, when local knowledge goes against this "logical approach", which do you put your faith in? As an example, I fish natural lakes in Canada that have decent visibility (6ft+ on average). I (like most everyone else on the lake) like to flip deep hydrilla and bulrush, and punch matted grass and lilypads. With the lake having clearer water, you would think that natural colors and smaller sleek profiles (craws and beavers) would work better when flipping and punching. But on these lakes; local guides, tournament winners, and all-around great anglers do almost the inverse of this. They all use the same lures. Primarily, a black 1/2oz flipping jig with either a black or sapphire blue chunk trailer. Why is this? Is it just as simple as they are better anglers, so they can throw whatever and still have success? Are the bass in on it and know to only bite the lures when those guys throw themšŸ˜…? Have you experienced anything similar to this and how do you get over the gut feeling of throwing the wrong lure no matter what it is?
  2. Appreciate the help. Iā€™ll rewire the graph to be direct to the other battery. and also try to clean up the wiring
  3. So how itā€™s wired in photo 4 is correct? Would I be okay to wire the front graph straight to the battery in the back instead of having it hooked up to the Marinco plug?
  4. I purchased a boat last year through consignment at a dealership and was in great condition. Now here is where I am confused (Iā€™m no electrician so I apologize in advance). I was in the process of replacing the onboard charger with a Minn Kota Precision (MK220PCL) and was reattaching the wiring when I was confused as there were 3 wires coming from the trolling motor (1 red, 1 orange and 1 black). The trolling motor is a 24V motor and has 2 12V batteries powering it as well as 2 graphs (1 on the console and 1 on the bow next to the trolling motor (Humminbird Helix 5 and Helix 5 DI G2). After looking into it a little more I was able to find out that the 3 wires correlate to a 12V positive connection, 24V positive connection and the negative. It was previously wired as follows (see photo 1): - 12V positive connection to the positive terminal of battery 1 - 24V positive connection to the positive terminal of battery 2 - Negative connection to the negative terminal of battery 1 - 1 foot cable connecting the positive terminal of battery 1 to the positive terminal of battery 2 - Console mounted graph wiring connecting to respective (positive and negative) terminal of battery 2 - On board charger connections connected up to respective terminals I read into the manual of the trolling motor and from what I read, it wasnā€™t wired correctly (which may explain why the previous owner had a battery die and the trolling motor seemed to be slow). The trolling motor didnā€™t have an option to switch between 12V or 24V like Iā€™ve seen elsewhere, so why would/should both positives be connected? Couldnā€™t I disregard the 12V connection and wire the 2 12V batteries in series only using the 24V positive connection? My next concern, I wasnā€™t able to locate the wiring for the front graph or how it was connected to a battery. I checked and followed the wiring and found it was wired into the Marinco plug (respective positive (using the 12V) and negative terminals) that the trolling motor plugs into (see photo 2 and 3): Now, with the the graph being wired into the Marinco plug and the positive being on the connection, I wouldnā€™t be able to disregard the 12V plug (assuming that is the positive itā€™s wired into). Would I be able to wire the graph back directly to a 12V battery (like the console graph) and then wire the trolling motor in series (disregarding the 12V (orange) positive connection)? If I were to do it like that would it look as follows (see photo 4) (note the disconnected 12V trolling motor connection) and instead of the 12V connection, the bow graph connects directly to battery 1: - 12V positive connection disconnected and replaced with a direct bow graph connection - 24V positive connection to the positive terminal of battery 2 - Negative connection to the negative terminal of battery 1 - 1 foot cable connecting the positive terminal of battery 1 to the negative terminal of battery 2 - Console mounted graph wiring connecting to respective (positive and negative)terminal of battery 2 - On board charger connections connected up to respective terminals After wiring to match photo 4 and disconnecting the bow graph as to not overload it with voltage the trolling motor is moving much quicker and more powerful. If this makes no sense, I apologize Iā€™m really trying to understand this and not ruin anything on my boat. Any help is appreciated.
  5. Do you ever have any concerns about the bracket on the trolling motor? I've heard plenty of stories of guys brackets being completely ripped off because of some nasty waves.
  6. I've found tons of material about how to handle rough water and large wake when making a run in a bass boat. However, I'm wondering how to handle it when you're using the trolling motor. For example, last weekend I was fishing a main lake weed bed along the shore and had a large wake boat fly down the main channel causing a wake of about 3 feet that would have easily swamped my boat. Luckily, I was able to tuck myself in behind a small island between the shore and the main channel. Without having that island as an option, what should I have done to avoid damaging my boat, myself or anyone else?
  7. There are huge expanses of grass, like the stuff in the photo, on my home lake. Looking for some tips on how to approach these areas (i.e. what lures to use, any specific angles to approach it at, etc.). The lake is in southern Canada (think lakes in Michigan, New York, Pennsylvania, etc.) and is dominated equally by smallmouth and largemouth.
  8. I'm feeling the bait monkey coming and am looking for a new rod to add to the arsenal. Currently, I run: 7'2 MHF w/ 7.5:1 reel used for jigs (swim and football) and Texas rigs 6'10 MHF w/ 6.8:1 reel used for spinnerbaits and chatterbaits 6'9 MLF spinning rod w/6.2:1 reel used for finesse (dropshot, ned rig, bucktail, etc.) 7' MHF spinning rod w/ 6.21 reel used for wacky rig, heavier tubes, etc. 7' MHF w/ 8.3:1 reel used for light cover frogging The rod I was looking to add is medium power and moderate action, however the rated lure weight is only 1/4 to 3/8oz and not too sure how much that would affect my choice. I'm looking at a possible crankbait or jerkbait rod (have had success with squarebills), but am open to some other options or suggestions of techniques that would be suitable. I fish in southern Ontario (Canada), and a lot of the lakes I fish are similar to those in New York, Michigan, Ohio, etc.
  9. Iā€™ve been fishing the dropshot recently and had some breakage on my fluorocarbon leader right below the knot. I currently run 15lb braid to 6lb flourocarbon (going to increase to 8lb) leader with a uni-to-uni knot. The knot holds but the flourocarbon breaks right below the knot on a hookset so I lose my hook and sinker. When I reel back in, the flourocarbon line is still tied in the knot and about 0.5ā€ of the flourocarbon is still left before the breakage. No issues with my guides, not fishing heavy cover, and I donā€™t believe it was an old batch of line. Hoping someone can shed some light on what I need to do differently or change.
  10. @The Baron Itā€™s been slow for me the last few weeks. Iā€™ve been trying to change up the lures and locations (football jigs, jerkbaits, deep diving crankbaits, etc.). The main thing I struggle with I think is getting to the right spot and finding the bass. The boat I use is an aluminum V-Boat hand me down from 50 years ago with a 6HP motor on the back. It works so Iā€™m not gonna complain, but also getting to places on the lake can be a pain. For now Iā€™ve got to work with what I got and Iā€™m hoping I can purchase a boat for myself soon enough.
  11. From what I have gathered, the lake is equally dominated by Largemouth and Smallmouth and I have no preference on which one bites. In terms of tackle I primarily use jigs (finesse and football) and crankbaits (squarebills).
  12. Iā€™m located in southern Ontario in Canada (specifically Pigeon Lake in Peterborough). I know the majority of this forum is in the USA, so I posted a specific lake information request in the International Bass Fishing forum. Any help would be much appreciated!
  13. Anyone have any tips on lures/locations for largemouth and smallmouth on Pigeon Lake in the Kawarthas region?
  14. What are some general tips to breakdown a natural lake and find some fish without electronics? Obviously, some structure is visible and can be targeted and some free topographic maps can help with ledges/dropoffs/humps - but how would I go about matching my location to these locations when I'm on the water?
  15. Hello everyone! My name is Ryan, I'm from Ontario. I've been lurking the site for a long time and been fishing for the majority of my life. My home water is Pigeon Lake in the Kawartha's, as I've spent countless summers fishing at my cottage. Looking forward to the knowledge from everyone here!
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