You're not going to get consistency in any paint brand that you are looking for. You will need to thin all paints to some degree, and not with water. I use any clear glass cleaner, like Stoner's from a spray bottle but the Createx and Wicked reducers also work well. 4012 or 4013 is my go-to if I am using one of their color shift paints.
You are likely shooting too low of an air pressure with paints that are not reduced enough. I will shoot anywhere from 20psi to 50psi unless I am doing detail work, which requires more reducing and lower pressures. Also you should be reading your air pressures while the trigger is held open, not static. PSI only matters while paint is flying, not when the trigger is closed.
I have been using Createx/Wicked/Faskolor paints for over 30 years with excellent results on R/C lexan bodies, motorsports helmets and all types of fishing lures. It's not the paint.
There is a learning curve with painting and airbrushing, like any other craft. It's not going to come overnight.
I have a painting series on YouTube @squareheadbaits that can help guide you through the process with a little less stress. It's not difficult to get awesome results, you just shouldn't expect it in the first few days of using an airbrush.
Oh, and you were smart to dump the HF airbrush. Nothing but headaches with cheap equipment.
Oh, and you mentioned some of the "detail" paints from Wicked... they are essentially transparents or candy colors. You shoot them over other colors to adjust tones, and yes, moss green is a must-have. I also use detail smoke black, yellow ochre, burnt sienna and sepia a lot for lifelike fish colors. Here's the trick with the details, though, I shoot them NOT REDUCED and at 40-50psi. I sometimes will shoot fluorescents like that, too. It's counter-intuitive to everything I know about Createx-based paints, but it works.