RDB

^^^This^^^ The nice thing about Spike-It markers is it takes seconds to apply, you can strengthen the color with additional marks, and you can rub after application to create a blended effect. Not sure but that looks like what A-Jay did in his image. I like JJ's too.

It’s not any more difficult than walking baits or other lures where you impart the action. Just make sure you throw slack between jerks as that creates the erratic, side to side action. Often they will hit on the pause and you will detect on the following jerk. If you are getting followers, mix up your pauses and cadence. I also believe when fish seem interested but won’t commit, they are telling you there is something they don’t like, so I will try another color or size to see if they will commit.

My favorite moving bait rod (by far) is the Alpha Angler ChatterBound (S-glass composite). It has some tip but good backbone and handles Chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, swim jigs, SB & medium crankbaits perfectly. It is more than you want to spend ($235) but it’s versatility may eliminate the need for another rod. They also have a satisfaction guarantee with no questions money back including return shipping if you don’t like it.

I have the NRX 854 & 893 JRW and they are both excellent rods. Since it sounds like you want bottom contact, I would choose the 873 CRR for purpose you described. It’s more like a 3.5 power, super sensitive, and IMO, one of the best NRX rods made. It’s rated to 3/4oz but G Loomis tends to under rate their rods. Unless you are going over 1oz or fishing heavy cover, the 873 should give you a wider range. Tackle tour has a good review of the previous NRX 873 (non-plus). Edit: It’s also a super popular choice and hard to find used so it’s very easy to resell should you choose.

^^^this^^^ If it were me, I would remove the blades and components and toss the rest. Now you either have replacement blades for your spinnerbaits or you can create your own under spins with the smaller blades.

Probably being a little too critical of yourself on the drag issue. One of the challenges with 110’s is the light wire hooks are easy to rip out or create a large hole with too much pressure, so fishing around wood can be difficult. If you are not already doing so, you might consider using a medium fast rod which will be more forgiving with treble’s. The pearl you bought is great. Threadfin Shad and Ito Natural have worked for me as well.

A rod company you don’t hear mentioned much on this site is Alpha Angler. They are relatively new and were originally not intended for the mass market but expanded due to demand. I was turned on to their Rebound and ChatterBound rods by a club friend and they are my go to Chatterbait, spinnerbait, swim jig, and square bill rods. I can’t speak for their other rods but the two I mentioned are excellent and I have tested and bought a ton. If you want to learn more about the company, click the blog link on their website. As a bonus, they have a money back guarantee. If you don’t like the rod for any reason, they will take it back no questions asked, including free return shipping. I can’t vouch for that because I have found no reason to return. Not a shill…just like the rods.

No need to spool an entire reel with Fluoro...50-60 yards is plenty. Otherwise, there have been a lot of good choices mentioned. As far as memory, I personally am not a fan of line conditioners. When I get some memory (which for me is usually when the reel has been out of commission for a while), a little stretch will remove. There were some comments on another post about weakening or stretching the line out of shape which I have never found to be true. I put way more stress on hooksets, fish fights, and hangups than I do removing line memory.

For $20 more than the Pro SP, you can get a JDM Chronarch...an extra $70, a JDM Metanium...an extra $80 an Aldebaran (actually less if you buy in a store due to taxes).

Just have it shipped to the neighbor...that's what I do.

I had a few hours this weekend so, I tried it out of curiosity. I just watched the beginning of the video so I’m not sure about the 3 FG knot thing people are referring to. I used coffee straws that I use for line through swimbaits. It’s pretty easy and only took a few minutes but if I were to do it again, I would pre-rig the straws so you can switch out quickly. It caught fish and looked pretty good but they were really turned on so I ended up fishing moving baits…it was still functional after 3-4 fish. Glad I tried it but I will just opt for a wacky rig if I want similar action.

The NRX 852 is a great rod. G Loomis has a history of under rating their lure ranges. I have only broken 1 G Loomis rod (Conquest-hook set) and it was replaced under warranty (defect). You don’t want to go way over the ratings but in my experience, they all punch above their listed range. The other great thing about G Loomis rods is they hold their value. Even though they are expensive, if you buy at a good price and take care of it, you will lose very little on resale. Last point, you can buy new at a discount. Dealers are not allowed to advertise discounts without approval so you need to ask. I have gotten 20% off on all of my new NRX rods. Not sure on the NRX+ since they are new.

d**n…I’m going to have to change my maths. Did I tell you the story of the 4 foot bass I caught last year?

Bass fishermen are open minded…FALSE Soap box time. I am always amazed at how dead set people are in their opinions (and they are opinions). So many stories that start off with “once I did ____ so that means it’s not true”. The reality is there are few absolutes in bass fishing. Can you get bit on a spinnerbait in no wind? Sure, but there may be better choices. Will a bass hit a watermelon worm in dirty water? Sure, but you may be better off with something less translucent. Does the wind from the east… saying have any merit? Well, it can certainly be an indicator of pre-frontal, frontal, and post frontal conditions. People would be better off considering different views instead of trying to convince others that their views are wrong because of their “once upon a time” stories. Want proof, go to pretty much any thread and see how quickly it gets divided into camps and the lengths people will go to support their camp. There are NO absolutes. Sorry for the rant. I just think so many potentially valuable discussions are derailed unnecessarily.

At least in this case you got a steal. I paid double that for my bottom contact.

Just a different NRX model…same price. I actually had G Loomis ship the warranty replacement rod to the store and the store shipped the new model to me.

You might see if you can do a swap through another retailer/dealer. I had a warranty replacement NRX and wanted a different model but G Loomis would only replace the original. I ended up doing an even swap with Am. Legacy and only had to pay 1 way shipping. May be worth a try. Also, Am. Legacy has 2 used Poison Adrena’s listed in excellent shape for $255 (not sure specs you are looking for). I have bought MANY rods from them including used (mostly Loomis) and as well as multiple Steez reels. In my experience, if it says excellent condition, you will think it’s never been held. By the way, Am. is American. Last time I helped someone on here with a discount, it flagged the name when I typed it out.

^^^THIS^^^ The FG is my go to knot for braid to fluoro. The only difference for me is if I put the main line in my mouth, I go cross eyed. I make 3-4 wraps of the main line around my pinky finger going toward me to keep tension. Then just wrap with your thumb and index finger and tighten your pinky to ensure it sets.

There are times when matching the hatch absolutely matters and times when it doesn’t. There isn’t a pro on ANY tour that would say that matching the hatch is nonsensical. Matching isn’t necessarily about exactly replicating the bait species…there can be degrees. Matching can include things like size, profile, color, movement and be influenced by water clarity, wind, light, how fast you are fishing, etc. Whether people want to admit it or not, pretty much every angler considers the hatch to a certain degree. As a general rule for me, the greater the distance a fish can see my lure, the more I will consider the hatch. I will agree there is overkill, especially around color choices.

https://tpwd.texas.gov/fishboat/fish/management/habitat/fish_attractor_types.phtml

I always first go for the typical options but I have a lake nearby that is loaded with threadfin and catching schoolers can be next to impossible. Since my obsessive compulsive nature won’t let me quit trying, I’ll share two off the wall ideas, one I have tried and the other I may try this fall. In shallower water, I have used a split shot with a floating bait (ElaZtech StreakZ 3.75”) and a long leader, nose hooked with a #1 or 1/0 drop shot hook. Letting it float up into the bait and twitching has worked pretty well. Before I get crap on my next idea, did I mention I am obsessive compulsive and can’t leave schooling fish? Though I haven’t tried this (yet), I would think floating a slip rig through the bait balls might work. I know it has a bobber and may require me wearing a skirt but it works in salt water. Did I mention I am obsessive compulsive.

There are no absolutes. If you take things too literally, you will always find situations where something doesn’t fit and miss potential new experiences. I’ve caught a ton of bass on a merthiolate or bubble gum worm but that doesn’t cancel the value I place on matching. I believe there are times it matters, just like the fall rate of my jig or a number of other things. IMO, much of the fun of bass fishing is in the experimentation and being flexible and open minded. Unless we can fit all of our tackle in our back pocket, I would suggest we are all giving at least a little consideration to matching. edit: This doesn’t have to be right or wrong…pass or fail. I acknowledge that using something less natural may be effective. Now back to the OP’s question.

I don’t think you are wrong at all to consider “matching the hatch”. Where it fits in your considerations (if at all) is up to you. While the term did gain popularity with fly fishing, it has been adopted and frequently used in the bass world. I believe size, color, and profile are part of ”matching the hatch” (WRB touched on this as well). It may be semantics but most bass folks I know put these elements in the equation. Moving into the fall with lots of threadfin in our waters, I am more likely to downsize (small in fall). Not a rule…just a consideration. I am more likely to throw a red/orange crawfish imitator in the spring, etc., etc. While bass are opportunistic and might hit most anything you throw when in the mood (especially smaller bass), larger bass are usually more discerning and it may take more effort to have consistent success. Obviously there need to be fish in the area but IMO, presentation (what and how) positioning, etc. are elements I always consider. I bet over the years, WRB may have thrown a few trout imitators. Don’t see many of those used in Texas though I’m sure you could probably catch something.

Never claimed it was a fact and at what point did anyone ignore other factors...such a strawman argument. The words I have used are POSSIBLE and SOME bass. It’s the other smartest people in the room (fill in the blank) who claim a lack of shyness is fact. Maybe we should cancel half these posts and start drop shotting with Paracord from now on.

I completely agree...just like a fish doesn’t know what a trolling motor or a brush pile is. It’s more experiential and association. A child may not know what a stove is but they are less likely to touch it if they have been burned. A deer doesn’t know what a human is but when the season starts, many of those big bucks quickly go nocturnal. Even if it’s 2% of bass, I want the best odds I can get.