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RDB

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Everything posted by RDB

  1. Spinnerbaits are probably one of the easiest lures to make. You can buy the head/wire combination and just add the components to match what you want. As far as wire sizes, the most common are .032”, .035”, & .040”. You usually see the smaller wire on smaller spinnerbaits and the larger on larger. I would buy round nose pliers as well. You can use regular long nose pliers but bends are easier and more consistent with round IMO. I usually buy my components from Lure Parts Online or Barlows.
  2. I think the NetBait Paca’s are different. The way they helicopter on the fall is pretty unique and I’m a fan. I’m not hung up on price if a bait works but it’s a bonus that Paca’s are reasonably priced
  3. I’ve already slipped…caught an 8.4 last week on an umbrella ?.
  4. Your best bet is to make your own. You don’t see them much now but I know there were 2 and I think 3 Bassmaster Classics won on a double Indiana’s in the 70’s. Just interesting trivia…not suggesting it’s the answer to your spinnerbait dreams.
  5. Jig trailers (bottom) High: Paca Craw or Chunk Rage (bug or grub), Bandito Bug Z-Craw Low Beaver style (usually D-Bomb) Meaty or Power Chunk
  6. I think this is a key point and really applies to this forum (sorry, this has become my new pet peeve). One part of setting expectations is setting up a new angler to have some success. Where many on these boards may get little excitement from catching dinks, early success with new anglers can often influence whether they stick with it or not. I have 5 boys who are quite proficient anglers. Thank God they enjoyed it enough in their early years to stick with it. We too often give recommendations for techniques that are too difficult for beginners. The great thing about most beginners is that they get a sense of joy and accomplishment from successes that many here would consider annoying. IMO, that is something that we all should consider when giving advice.
  7. If you are really curious why, I’ll give it a shot as it applies to me. Whichever side you choose, the hand movements are pretty much the same depending on how you hold your reel. Personally, I have large hands & fingers and like to really palm my reels on retrieve with one or all fingers above the trigger, depending on the technique. However, for me that is an uncomfortable casting position for feathering the spool. I usually have my index finger around the trigger with my thumb on the spool when casting. After any cast, hopefully everyone can agree that your hands come together to meet at the reel. In my case, if I cast right and reel right, post cast my left hand moves to my preferred palming position and my right moves to the handle (2 moves). Most people consider this switching hands and therefore inefficient. However, if I cast right and reel left, my left moves to the handle but I still need to reposition my right hand to my preferred palming position (2 moves). Unless you have shorter fingers or you are fine with holding a lower palming position, you are likely subconsciously repositioning your palming hand as well. Either way, your hands are going to meet in the middle. If it feels better to switch or improves your accuracy or consistency, you should definitely switch. As far as efficiency of movement, there is really negligible, if any difference. I cast a LOT with my left hand as I am comfortable from both sides but there is zero difference in my start up retrieval speed. The reason I choose what some consider backwards is that I personally feel more comfortable reeling with my more coordinated hand. I certainly understand where some may want to use their more coordinated hand to control the power…I make no judgement one way or the other. As far as efficiency of movement or starting the retrieve faster, IMO that alone isn’t a reason to switch. I think the subject of switching hands sounds good on paper but in practice is greatly overblown.
  8. This one is going to be popular ?. I don’t have many fishing pet peeves but I am developing a new one from some of the advice on this forum. Are people reading the questions? Poster Hi, I am new to fishing and want to know what to buy. Responder Hey new fisherman, go grab some jigs (literally one of the most difficult techniques for a beginner). Make sure you use the triple tailed grub smacker with 8 rings and 4 tentacles in blueberry crush color. Poster I bought some underwear that that are too big, should I keep them? Reaponder I have a friend with 3 balls and uses oversized underwear so I would keep them? People need to read the comments, leave out their personal unicorn experiences, and answer in the best interest of the poster. Rant done…I feel so much better.
  9. Bottom line MJack, decide what hand you would like to reel with and go with it. I would not keep the left handed reel on the remote chance that you will be one of the <.1% that uses both left and right handed reels for different techniques. That’s just fishing advice malpractice IMO. And it’s ok to switch hands if it feels good. >90% of the pro’s do and that’s how they make their living. The only one I can think of off the top of my head that doesn’t switch regularly is Seth Feider though I’m sure there are a few more. Accuracy and consistency is what separates average, good, and great…not whether they switch hands. However, I can guarantee you that every one of them can cast with both hands. Agree…and then learn the other side to so you don’t have to do everything from one side.
  10. So why not just switch to lefty. Both of your examples above suggest using a left handed reel. What value are you getting from the right handed reel that you can’t get from left handed. In my view, this is just overcomplicating things.
  11. If fishing lefty feels more comfortable, you should switch. If you need lefty & righty for stamina reasons, carry both. Otherwise, I can’t see where carrying both left and right is practical or optimal. IMO, you should choose one side or the other. Remember, even if you “technically” don’t have to switch hands after a cast or pitch, most people palm their baitcasters when reeling which is typically not how you hold when casting or pitching, so you are going to have to readjust your palming hand anyway. Your better solution is to learn to pitch and cast from both sides. Then no matter how the cover your targeting sets up, you can access it from any angle without switching reels.
  12. I’m going to reel with the side I am more coordinated with and that’s my right hand. Plus, if I’m going to hand land or boat flip a good bass, I’m not going to risk it lefty if I don’t have to. IMO, you would be better off learning to cast and pitch from both sides. There are always times you are going to have to switch hands depending on the direction you are going or access to your target. For me, that is way more useful.
  13. Personally, I put firetiger in the same general category as chartreuse, yellow, etc. For largemouth, I typically consider that category in less than ideal visibility. It can be be effective in cleaner water, especially when fish are in a positive mood, but I usually opt for another presentation. I would also probably be using a Colorado or Indiana blade with that category…but that’s just me.
  14. Lol…I sort of screwed it up and referred to the wrong post. But the article is still true...I know I read it. And tomorrow will be less windy so that’s good amiright.
  15. I was just reading an Oklahoma news article…I’ll paraphrase: “Oklahoma Angler Catches State Record Largemouth” When asked how he caught it, he said he just fished the spots Luke Barnes normally fishes.
  16. I get your points and certainly don’t question your skills. The sentence above is probably what distinguishes you from most. Feel is something that can be refined and most normal ? anglers benefit from as many signs as possible. Just like when you lose one of your senses and your other’s become more acute, successful night fishing also heightens those other senses. I know my level of concentration is much more consistent at night. You have me by a few years experience but I am close and for my skill level, if I miss the “feel” of a bite it’s typically on the fall, especially if I throw a little slack to ensure a vertical fall (which I almost always do). I will usually catch a fish or two every trip because the fall stopped prematurely and I caught that by watching the line. I certainly don’t doubt that every bite CAN be felt (at least with a tight enough line to give feedback). I just know that every bite that I GET is not felt. And I think I have a pretty solid resume.
  17. I’m not disagreeing but my guess is your technique for presentations requiring “feel” likely involves having a finger on your line (as does mine). For me, the sensitivity is night & day better than just relying on what is transferred through the rod. I’m still a line watcher because it is one more data point and I do miss some bites that I catch with the line. It is not uncommon for me to take up slack and immediately feel tension though I never felt the actual bite. I’m probably most acutely aware on the fall and any presentation using a semi slack line.
  18. I made a switch about 5 years ago to only 1 brand for bottom contact (feel) presentations. Before I had a combination of brands and while they all had good sensitivity, in my hands they all felt different. I made the switch because I felt more comfortable and confident with a consistent feel. For everything else, brand doesn’t matter.
  19. I hope this comes off in the manner intended which is to try to be helpful, not judgmental. Based on your question, I am going to assume you might be fairly new to fishing as there is really no good answer to your question based on the information provided. If that is the case, you might go with some presentations that are fairly straightforward. Things like spinnerbaits or flat sided crankbaits (Shad Raps), etc. There have been some good suggestions provided but many require a degree of skill and experience. If my assumptions are wrong, disregard and I’ll climb back in my hole.
  20. The 7 gear ratio is 7.4. The spec differences in line retrieve is 29” on the 7.4 v. 32” on the 8.1. There are other factors that can influence but basically you are talking about a small difference. As a general rule, higher ratio’s have a better resale than lower if that matters in the future.
  21. I use Sniper but have used pretty much every mid to high priced fluoro on the market. Outside of some of the stiffer high end lines, if I fished most of them blindfolded for a day, my odds of guessing which one I was using would probably be low. It’s kind of like Coke or Pepsi…Ford or Chevy.
  22. I keep my tackle organized by types, not conditions. The only exception I can think of is I do separate my colder water cranks (flat sides, shad raps, etc.) and won’t carry them during warmer months. I’m not sure separating by conditions would be ideal. While you may need to tweak your presentation, there are lot’s of lure types that work in many conditions.
  23. Lot’s of manufacturers make great 1.5 sized crankbaits. The reason I suggested a squarebill is they have better deflection qualities than other bill styles (more forgiving). Since you are just starting, I would personally go with KVD. If you go to Tackle Warehouse and type in KVD silent and KVD Hard Knock, you can see the 2 basic versions they sell (obviously 1 silent and 1 not). They are reasonably priced, offer lot’s of color choices and have depth ranges from 3 to I think 10 feet. As far as Rapala, the only one’s I can speak to are the BX Brat which comes in a 1.0 & 1.5 size (they may have a 2.0…not sure) and the DT series, which I love, but are round bills. I would choose the depth based on the conditions you are fishing. In a perfect world, I prefer to deflect off of something (cover or the bottom) but in Florida, vegetation may be a problem for bottom contact. If you need shallower, you can always go with a wakebait. Lot’s of Florida folks on here so hopefully they will correct me if I’m leading you astray. Hope that helps. Also, lipless crankbaits work well in vegetation, so that is another option I would consider. Again, lot’s of manufacturers sell lipless cranks.
  24. You just answered your own question. You are using a $700 rod for crankbaits…you can afford multiple crankbait rods. ?
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