softwateronly

I'm trying the mustad fastach heads so I can better match my hook to baits this year, but they only drop down to 1/4oz. Maybe they can hold you over till you get the sweet custom ones made. scott

The bass on my lake don't seem to key in on craws as much as everyone else experiences, so I've been using keitechs on a biffle, fishing them exactly the same way as everyone else is saying and it gets bit really well. Something definitely worth trying in my opinion. scott

I hope that sheet calves into a million pieces and melts away before the daylight!!!! Is it spring yet?

Had a nice run with Invisx and abrasx, gonna try Maxima green this year for a bit more stretch. By the end of May I usually end up with tieable steel leader on anyway because of those pesky pike and the water has changed from gin clear to clear(ish). scott

I'm not that familiar with some of your combos, but you seem set up pretty well. I'm older and have had the bait monkey rob me blind on a bunch of new combos that I can't wait to use more, but finances aren't as tight as they were for me when I was younger. My advice would be to upgrade a rod for your most successful bottom contact presentation or move into a new area, ie glide baits, cranks, etc. I will say that I've seen the biggest improvement in gear around the $200-$300 range. I really love both my St Croix Avid AVS70 ML and M Fast, but Shimano, Diawa, Dobyns, etc all offer excellent rods in that range. I've gotten away from dropshotting the last few years, but I still have a St Croix mojo 6'10" drop shot rod that needs a new tip(insert popped off on a cast after 5+ years running braid-to-leader) and reel. I personally think the Avid is worth saving up for over the mojo, some for sensitivity and a lot for the more comfortable full handle. Also, the dobyns fury casting rods have blown me away in terms of value. Best of luck! scott

Almost all of my lipless success in real cold water (less than 45) is right on or near the bottom, both hopping or a retrieve just fast enough to feel it and killing it periodically to get back on the bottom. All sorts of models and colors have worked for me but if you run across a Luhr Jensen Sugar Shad in bleeding tennessee shad 1/2oz don't bother throwing it. scott

Incoming, neighbors.....

I just realized what I wrote is pretty dependent on the fact that I almost always jig and pop my chatterbaits out of grass, similar to yoyo-ing a lipless. Straight retrieve for chatterbaits has not been very successful for me over the years. scott

I have a Fury 705cb, Champ 706cb, and Champ 734. All 3 will work for 3/8oz chatterbaits, but definitely prefer the 734 and 706cb. I have never fished the Champ 705cb which might have a little more backbone over the Fury. scott

I'm relatively new to baitcasting set ups, but I recently bought a JDM metanium mgl. Asian portal through ebay, all in about $320 and the main difference is that the spool holds less line which shouldn't effect your light line application. I think the new 2020 mgl has returned to internal brass gears over the previous dc version, meaning this should improve the longevity of the reel. I think the learning curve for either the US or JDM metanium 20 is a bit steeper over the dc, but it's cheaper and seems to be an upgrade on the internal components. If I were in your shoes, I'd accept the learning curve and get what I think is the better and cheaper reel. scott

DC 806 HSB - Tat 300L - all swimbaits up to 5oz FR 795 HSB - Curado K 301HG - glides, swimmers, and topwater up to 3.5oz, thinking of trying heavy A-rigs this yr. DC 706 CB - Curado DC 151HG - cranks, topwater, S Waver 168, large jerkbaits and traps, open hook keitechs FR 705 CB - Curado DC 151 - traps, cranks, topwater, open hook keitechs DC 735 C - Tat 200HSL - frogs, all 1/2-3/4oz jigs, mag shakey, heavy swing heads and t-rigs, light pitch DC 734 C - Curado DC 151HG - topwater, chatterbaits, 5" soft swimbaits, swim jigs, traps I got all my champions right before ice up, so I'm unable to say if all these "plans" are valid and am open to suggestions. scott

Haven't spent that much time with my tatula 200 and 300 yet, but the t wing on the 300 is significantly better at handling my fg knot, feels just like my shimanos. Now, it's to the point where I keep my 200's leader out of the reel. My shimano's don't mind the connection knot at all and this has definitely impacted which reels I'm looking at buying next. Giving up on braid to leader doesn't seem like a satisfactory choice, personally. I made most of my rod decisions, I lean toward softer tips and moderate/fast actions, based on the lack of stretch of braid. scott

Haven't caught bass on or even fished: -deep cranks or squarebills -a rig -swim jigs I really hope to have fixed this by April 1st. A-Jay you have to spend some time with those glides, there's almost nothing better than watching a follower turn into an eater. Middle of the day, on a sunny day, has been my most productive timeframe....

I put a TW link in the post, but I actually ordered from Hog Farmer directly, and they have a better color selection....

I recently ordered some preacher/chicken jigs and also added in a HogFarmer Baits Hog Tied Swingers. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/HogFarmer_Baits_Hog_Tied_Swingers_/descpage-HHS.html Any of you have experience with this? Can this be run with a pin tail shad trailer to help bulk up the profile? Do you fish it like a standard preacher jig? When the ice is out there's a couple staging flats in 22'-24' fow with sporadic weed clumps that I intend on targeting. Am I on the right path? Thanks much... scott

Hey all, Long time lurker, finally joined to say thanks for all the insight, knowledge, and entertainment. I've fished on and off for 30 plus years and recently got into throwing glides and larger soft swimbaits, and fell in love again with the water I have easiest access to. So, the bait monkey has really kicked I disagree the last few months and I heard this was the place... scott