I don't know of any conversion for older 5000A/B to berings, other than swapping to 5000C sideplates.
They do sell bushings to replace the bearings on 5000C
adding a ps - I checked Mike's Reel Repair in BC - seems like if anybody made this upgrade, it would be them - they don't make anything like it.
But it's interesting, they followed my lead and are offering full-silicon-nitride ceramic for -C series reels
https://www.mikesreelrepair.com/3x10x4-full-ceramic-bearing/
I like JDM Tackle Heaven's website, but I've never bought a rod from them.
They pretty much list everything, whether in stock or Preorder (OOS- never do this, it will tie up your money).
I've managed to find better prices elsewhere. - Digitaka is a great deal, though they don't replenish inventory like others.
I've bought most rods from fishingshop.kiwi, prices normally discounted. Kirill is in Miami and fields US business from there. They're a drop-shipper without inventory, who receive from all Japan distributors - if it's in production or a distributor's warehouse, they have it listed as In Stock. Your order doesn't transfer money - Kirill will send you a paypal invoice when Japan verifies the distributor, and will include shipping cost for a rod - if you don't like it, reply thanks but no thanks - he understands.
I've bought rods from Asian Portal and Plat.
The old way of buying from Japan is a broker (6% brokerage fee). I've always found the best prices from vendors who don't ship to US, but will ship free to my long-time broker Masamichi (noppin.com). I then pay UPS Express cost from his shipping charge. This includes Yahoo vendors, small shops, Naturum, which is kinda like Japan Academy store. The nicest thing about the broker is building up a cache from 4 or 5 small vendors across Japan and shipping it all together.
Most recent Evergreen came from Yahoo vendor Shimaya Fishing Shop (discounted 22%) using my broker, vs JDM Tackle Heaven retail:
https://jdmtackleheaven.com/products/evergreen-zephyr-avantgarde-zags-91ul-l-sweep-master-91
I also got a better price using the broker to buy a Transcendence from Hedgehog Japan website than buying from their US$ website.
I also use noppin to bid for me on Yahoo auctions. We go back to 2007, I've recived 45 shipments - out of that, Masamichi made 2 mistakes, and ate the cost to correct both.
At current JY155/ US$, consider all of Japan to be 30% off. Each side of the 2010 recession, we considered anything over JY100 / US$ to be worth Japan shopping. The Dollar is at its all-time strongest against the Yen. The trick is buying before new models come out with new inflated list prices - inflation is bad in Japan. This is why '21 Zillion/ '22 HD is such a steal at current prices - you won't get the next one for $200/ $240.
A friend has a pair of KKR spools and likes them both, T-31M and T-37 long-cast SV.
He fishes 0.15-mm braid on both. Yes, at 4 g total weight, I'd think there's not a lot of metal thickness there, but it ought to sail light baits.
To me, threadline braid is the reason to fish these spools.
Ray's Studio offers "long cast" deeper spools for mono.
Avail also recently came out with their first Daiwa spool -34-mm for Steez/Zillion - that's plenty stout for mono. I expect they will get around to a 32-mm Alphas spool.
That said, you can probably get by with 4- and 6-lb mono on the KKR spool.
If you end the day on a cast instead of a big bass, I wouldn't worry too much about mono-relaxation crushing the spool.
Traditional UL is a a short para-taper rod matched with a small- or micron-frame spinning reel. The taper is intended to bend deep into the handle, making small fish feel like big fish feel on heavier tackle.
5' Falcon UL (1990)
Modern finesse rods, along with traditional threadline rods, are longer progressive taper, and can be rated UL or XUL (sub-gram low end, and on to M in longer rods) - the taper gives powerful butt for turning fish.
I have a few XUL spinning rods, 7-1/2' to 8', in salt finesse - these are rated down to 2-lb line, but I've never fished lighter than 4-lb salt copolymer, and can fish farther with PE#0.5 or #0.6.
Takamiya 7'9" Rockfish XUL (2010)
UL stream casting rod rated 1 to 7 g - if I was using mono, it would be 5-lb, but I fish PE#1 (same dia. as 4-lb mono), which is 20-lb breaking strength, and 8-lb leader - I set my drag to 1.5 lbs for the rod rating. Note 1- to 7-g rating on this progressive taper is much wider than the 1- to 2-g rating of the the traditional Falcon UL spinner above.
Smith Dagger Stream 5'5" UL
Addressed the differences between UL and finesse rod in this essay:
which also dispelled the idea of "true BFS", though some balked.
Standard Plus is Studio Composite, a late out of production model
https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product/1663 (link Daiwa w/o knobs)
The knobs are S/C R31.
current RC-SC EX Plus, XL29 knobs
If you ever get the bug to swap knobs, be careful. S/C sells their knobs for Shimano-A/Daiwa-S, but the knobs they use on their handle are 5-mm, and longer knob spindle than Abu/Doyo. The one vendor that calls out S/C knob for S/C is fishingshop.kiwi
Line roller is Shimano's weakest point.
The Japanese have half-a dozen brands that all fix it the same way.
Since I fish salt, the whole sealed line roller idea is a bad idea - saltwater in, steam out.
Note, the Shimano line roller is chromed brass (outside only), single ball-bearing, rubber seals and nylon bushings - actually, the nylon parts are galvanic insulators from the yellow metal. This is the same line roller on Stradic to Stella.
All the upgrade designs use a better braid groove, same corrosion and wear resistance inside and out, no seals, and dual ball bearings.
both good reels, Certate is lighter,
Twin Power has the edge on line management, especially with fine braid.
Also probably has the edge on keeping that accurate line management longer.
@Flyfish-mt Vanford is the '20 name for Stradic CI4+
And yes, the reason Vanford has a shorter knee is for Shimano design to hit their stiffness target - Stradic forged alloy is inherently stiffer than the composite.
The composite frame is the only difference between the two reels - both are assenbled in Malaysia and share identical drive. Both have composite rotor, and Vanford's is cut-out for lighter weight.
Beginning with Stradic, all worm-drive Shimano reels are the same design as Stella, with model grades separated by bearing count, MOC and labor costs setting the price (Japan/Malaysia, Al/CI4+/Mg) - from Stradic to Stella, parts inerchange.
Stradic FL is '18 Stella design, and when '19 Stradic (FL) was introduced, TackleAdvisor's take-down review dubbed it "The Best $400 Reel You Can Buy"
The only change in '22 Stella and Stradic FM, etc, is a slightly increased spool pitch (slightly longer spindle). This change shows Shimano was so happy with the strength of their '18 design, they simply pushed it a little harder.
@TheLokoWuaka for MH, I would definitely pick Stradic toughness over Vanford light.
(Stradic FL + Yumeya shallow braid spool)
bulldog1935's post in Spools? was marked as the answer
One vendor says the same spool fits these different models:
2016 TATULA CT
2016 TATULA CT TYPE R
2017 TATULA CT CS
2017 TATULA CT CS TYPE-R
FUEGO CT
2019 TATULA 100
2020 Tatula Elite
2020 Tatula Elite PF
2021 Tatula CT
2021 Salamandura 150
These are all 34-mm dia spools, while Tatula 80 is 32-mm dia.
Here's the line capacity on a 4-mm-deep spool
8LB 0.235mm 80 yd
10LB 0.260mm 75 yd
12LB 0.285mm 65 yd
If you're fishing mono/fluoro, I would skip the heavily carved spools, and stick to a solid or lightly vented spool.
Installing a new spool, always remember to back way off on spool tension knob, because spindle widths vary - without this, you can damage the palm plate latch. After you get the latch closed, set spool tension where you need.
Don a pretty accurate reel tuning assessment by Jun Sonada is that getting the loaded spool mass down is a 20+% cast improvement. The bearing upgrade is about 10+% - in simplest priorities, the spool is the place to begin.
Also note above, when I said mono backing, that means nylon - fluoro is 40% denser than mono, and that much heavier in the same volume.
Improved Allbright is a little different, but any knot without this low profile on that big mono probably won't pass your line guide.
more important, where in the cast is your backlash - start-up, mid-cast (hump) or finish cast?
If it's at the start-up, you need to cast without jerk - follow-through, but don't snap your wrist.
Mid-cast, use higher mag adjustment.
End of your cast, anticipate and use your thumb - spool stop is up to you.
Selah.
I'm not even sure of the spool configuration at this point - I can't see what you see - your overall reel frame and the "bumps" in the drive side plate match C3 drive configuration.
this schematic is CT non-level-wind, but drive and spool are the same for all Ambassadeur C3. (this reel doesn't have palm-plate idler gear and LW to drive off the idler - it's the schematic I had handy, and clear to see the rest without the LW parts)
I do now see in your photo that what I thought was the end of a short spindle is reflection from the bottom of the pinion slot.
C3 spindle is usually clipped in place in the drive side by p/n 20090. The tabs on these clips sometime will break, and I keep spares for my reels. The plastic part is kinda woosie (there's a stouter UK part in my blue CT above, but that doesn't do us any good).
@CatfishAndBass
Since the spindle appeared to come out with your spool, I think we're back to spool centering as the issue causing spool pins to impact the pinion gear. I don't have time to take photos this morning (all the other photos I posted were stashed), but may get there this afternoon.
The increased diameter boss on the spindle (p/n 802631) bump-stops the spool bearing inner race, and limits how far the spool can move toward the drive. If the 20090 clip is not pinning the spindle, tightening palm-side brake knob can push the spool too close to the drive and pinion. The solution may be as simple as replacing 20090 clip and adding a brass square shim (p/n 20917, also 5145) to the drive side cap nut.
I have a couple of reels w/ Avail spools that need as many as 3 of these shims to center properly.
You can get these parts from e-replacement parts or Dad's Ole Tackle.
Get some spares, like I said, the plastic part is woosie, and the phosphor bronze shims wear and bend from cranking on the brake knob. The shims are what you add to or remove from cap nuts to adjust spool centering.
editing in these photos - spindle - note the groove in the drive end for the clip - the clip and shim.
This shows the clip tabs in the spindle groove. But you have to remove drive side cap nut, push the spindle through the pinion, and install the clip on the outside.
Asian Portal always bills in JPY. Your credit card may add a separate fee for currency conversion.
My past purchases with Asian Portal included Vanquish that came in 10% lower than their list price, and my Zillion came in 3% higher, both due to currency exchange fluctuations after the website listing was posted. Never enough difference to matter.
Asian Portal does not have a good courier contract, which affects their shipping rates. Before '20 when Japan Post and USPS ISC Customs both worked, Asian Portal was free post on $100, 4-day delivery, and even a below-$100 cart only received a $12 post charge. (Throw in a $12 lure to get to $100).
Reliable is a cultural thing for the Japanese - you're not going to find bad customer service, though there are some scam sites operating from China with .jp web addresses. What you will find is an extreme language barrier, requiring e-mails forwarding back and forth to a contract interpreter before they can get you an answer.
I've used Masamichi at noppin.com for a broker, buying from Yahoo (Yahoo is not for the lame, but for the patient and persistent), Rakuten, and especially shops that don't market direct to US - the remaining 99% of Japan. When I began buying in Japan 18 years ago, a broker was the only way you could buy. The list of Masamichi's extra effort to earn his 6% brokerage fee can only be abridged - he baby-sat a custom inshore S-glass fly rod rolled from scratch on order, finds stock, hunted down a Yahoo seller when a reel I was following through 2 reduced-price auctions didn't come back for a 3rd, gets questions answered we never could from this side of the big pond, and always knows the scam websites when I ask.
The broker stores small orders from around Japan for up to 60 days gratis, and combines them into one FedEx shipment. Brokerage also gets me into other Japan discount stores, such as Naturum, which is kinda their version of Academy.
The main reason, also the reason for so many compact frames, they're aimed at stream trout, where upstream and across casts may require fast retrieve. Rod tip lift on these short rods also doesn't pick up a lot of line or gain a lot of lure speed. In my hill country limestone creeks, Ambassadeur 1500CI gearing is fine for me.
I'm also happy with Ambassadeur gearing in my river kayak niche.
In my shore casting salt finesse niche (tide passes), I prefer low-geared reel for lure presentation, also larger diameter spool for improved distance. This is 6.3-geared Steez w/ Roro-X spool, casting 2 g to 130' on 8' rod.
Where I'm drift-fishing a salt kayak on windy flats with a 7' baitfinesse rod, higher 8.5-gear Silver Wolf works well for me.
The no brainer is $146 for a JDM Shimano Stradic. If you ever choose to fish braid, this reel will keep its line management accurate over longer, harder use.
And boy, do I love my worm-drive Shimanos.
But since you're not in that market, you'll find a low-end Daiwa built to fish harder and last longer than a low-end Shimano. At this price end, Shimano can sell smooth, but also at this price end, Daiwa builds tough.
There are two different designs, and you need both to cover the range of possible spools.
The answer is not One Best tool. Anyone who says there is a Best tool only has One style of reel.
The best buy on both styles is Rorolure.com
You need the Hedgehog style pin tool for wide-spindle, deep spools with full flanges and the spool bearing located outside of the spool flange.
You need the Daiwa SLP Works style tool for shallower spools with the spool bearing recessed into the hollow of the spool inside the spool end flange.
The tool above cannot reach this pin.
Double and counter-balanced handles make a difference for finesse feel.
Gravity acting on the weight of the rotor and bail in certain positions tries to keep turning your crank.
Counterbalance offsets this, and gives you more subtle feel, e.g. big fish sipping tiny winter bait.
Note it's important to match handle length (pitch) with gear ratio.
Too long handle on a low-geared reel won't let you keep up with charging fish.
set up a couple of photos, and we can talk details, friend.
If all else fails, go to a video, stop it where you can see what you want to talk about, and use Snipping Tool to capture a jpeg. (or snip a schematic)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b_ag6VorY
The freespool functions are all the same - the geometry may be different for the package, but they all work the same (1954 invention). A yoke lifts the pinion off the spool pins and away from the main gear. The clutch (different) yoke clicks into a notch at the main shaft, so turning the main shaft will push it free. Some kind of link connects both yokes, so they move together.
Different reel brand (different millennium), same idea
A is the clutch yoke, B is the pinion yoke, C is the link that moves them together. Pushing the thumb clutch (D) moves A into grooves (keys) in the main shaft. Cranking the main shaft pushes A back and releases the clutch mechanism.
There are two types of pin removal tools, depending on how hollow the spool, and whether the spool bearing sits far out on the spindle, or deeper in the spool hollow.
The pins themselves may be shouldered to only move one way, and forcing the other way destroys the spool/spindle. Check both ends of the pin with magnifier or calipers.
Rorolure.com sells both pin removal tool types for the best prices.
Lew's SP requires the spendy SLP Works offset module vise, which Roro sells equivalent for the best price on our planet.
Hi friend, that's a jewel of a rod.
I'm not sure you have a question there - go rip their lips.
If you want to get down, instead of weighted flies, consider hunting a spare spool, and add a Teeny T200 spliced shooting head. I sight-fished this endemic bass 6' deep in a tannin plunge pool.
If you want to find out more about your rod, visit this forum:
https://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/
Hi friend,
My 4600C3 is a 6.3-geared Royal Express - one reason for the long 90-mm handle. I picked up spare 6.3 main gear and pinion along the way (either ebay or Dad's Ole Tackle website, also Mike's Reel Repair in BC) - stashed them because I knew I'd probably want them later.
I ended up using those gears when I built a custom 4500CT (non-level wind) entirely from parts for salt use - shore microjigging. And yes, the answer to your question, you only need those two gears to speed up your reel, and the parts are out there.
Reel width decides the worm gear, and there are only two idler gears in all Ambassadeur history - all the recent ones are the same. For both of these parts, there are ball-bearing upgrade aftermarket parts that pop right in. These reels are a blast to work on, because all the parts are big, and everything makes sense.
The recommendation would be not to go below PE#1 diameter to avoid line dig.
That said, I've fished PE#0.8 on 3 BFS reels including Daiwa with no problems (and Big fish)
A line I've gone back to lately is Varivas Super Trout Advance Max Power
easier to link than say - but it's on 2 reels now -
- https://www.varivas.fishing/products/super-trout-advance-max-power-pe-x8/
This is threadline, and needs a shallow spool to work best. I can strongly recommend this aftermarket spool, which has moving SV rotor to solve cast jerk.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113871839091
The vendor is in Thailand, where Ray's Studio is made. The reel below is going into 4th (hard) year without a backlash.
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