bulldog1935

What you want in your repair is to add a ferrule ring. The idea is to keep the damaged female ferrule from splitting worse in fatigue. These are examples of the first tip-over ferrules (not spigot) from Phillipson c. 1972. Note the brass rings, which are there to help prevent splitting. ps - The late fabled rodbuilder Tom Morgan added ferrule rings to all his spigot ferrules https://tommorganrodsmiths.com/pages/our-roots-ii @PressuredFishing - here's a source for the part https://www.proofflyfishing.com/products/hand-fit-ferrule-ring-set-3-piece-rod?variant=12557210484835 Take some measurements and contact them for their size. rodbuilding thread with nice photos https://www.rodbuildingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=14629

Neoprene is waterproof, but unless it has sealed zippers it will still get wet inside. Neoprene reel cover? (they certainly don't seal) They do make good sealed zippers, and maybe I'm not familiar with the rod cover you're talking about. The 6th Sense sleeve is made to protect a rod from impact, not really from weather If what you're asking about encases the rod and reel and has sealed zipper, no worries. If they're not sealed zippers, could be made worse by slow drying and mildew. If you've ever opened a tube for multipiece rod and smelled sour milk - the sock and rod inside is on its way to biological rot. If you're talking about driving to fish and bring the rod inside at home, I wouldn't worry about it getting wet. @Big Rick - yes, long-term storage in the weather is UV, wet/dry - everything that cracks plastic. With long term moisture in a closed environment, once you get biological cheese going, it's no longer just water, it's ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, organic acids.... Think about the things your rod brings back with it when you take it out for a day on the water. You're bringing back algae and bacteria for a base, mold spores last for millennia. Here's the bow hatch on my kayak - I have tethered dry bags, a small light one for fly rod fanny pack containing the reels and fly boxes, and a 4'-long for multipiece rods - back-up rods and fly rods. These are to protect the gear from saltwater, but dry bags are just imperfect enough, they have to be aired out in the garage after after every trip. My back-up bait reel and spinning spool are in a pelican box in the lap hatch.

AJay, I searched corpusfishing and TKF. Only 2 hits on TKF, not about the lodge, but about Michael as a fisherman. There are 13 Google reviews with much praise. .

Very good rod review, having a comparison, and good points on the thread. The thing is, you can have a soft tip and still have a long fast mid. That's how you get a wide lure weight range, the ability to cast UL lures to good distance - also how you protect XUL line - 1-1/2- to 2-lb test. (That's also how a great dry fly rod works, able to cast the leader alone and still fast through the long mid). I can think of one ML rod and several long UL-rated that meet the bill - the only one that the tip deflects under under its own weight is the Omen Green 7'7" ML, but the long mid is plenty Fast. Handy curves below from YB, because two of my favorite rods are on it - these are shore light game rods, and probably much closer to the Daiwa Ardito taper. Not recommending you run out to buy one of these mid- to high-grade rods, but using the load curves and some of my direct experience. I have the 83TZ Nano, and my salt finesse bait is III82. Between the two, the 83 TZ spinning is the most remarkable distance rig rod (tandem jig and weightless bait rig), while the fast mid on the III82 makes it perfect fishing heavy-sinking UL to ML plugs. But what I really wanted to show here is where the 71TZ (JH-Special) and 73Plug load curves cross - the plug rod has a much faster mid than the jig-head special rod. Also note the 77TZ Stream, which is intended for light salmon, is one bad-boy-fast rod from end to end. Here's what YB offers for trout - every one of these rods is more para taper, with faster tip, more flex in the mid and, especially in the butt on the shorter models - the Main Stream models have more power in the butt for light salmon. If you want a guess, the 71 is closer to the St. Croix trout load curve.

My Olympus TG-5 is a great outdoor camera - dragged through the salt for 5 years - plus it has focus-stacking for freakish detail using a tripod - 0.15 mm braid on a line roller. You have it, it's the Studio Composite Standard discontinued in 2020. It would be nice to sell the complete package, but the handle alone is worth more than $50. The SC carbon-tube EVA knobs sell for $30 each. The handle/knobs swap Shimano-A /Daiwa-S

The best internet price on new Studio Composite handle is fishingshop.kiwi - $131 (EVA knob). If you have the full-carbon knobs, best price is $164. That's a long handle, though. When you remove it, you'll be amazed at its light weight - it's not gomexus, et.al. The knob spindles are titanium, and even the knob tubes are carbon. They require a deeper cap nut and new come with all the hardware to set up both Shimano and Daiwa/Abu. (My cap screw below is not stock SC, but KDW titanium made deep for SC application.) @tim_kovar thanks for blowing up the thumbnails - yours looks like it might be the discontinued standard or signature model - the latter with rubber-coated carbon knobs sold for $30 or $40 more - would be nice to see a close-up of the marking https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product/4890 This is the mark on the current model StandardPlus

To me, low gears and short handles work perfectly together. An e-friend on another forum put a long double handle on a low-geared spinning reel and discovered he couldn't keep up with charging fish - just a consideration.

About 90 mph, the difference between hydrodynamic lift and aerodynamic lift may only be the difference between a tail-wind and a head-wind. Water is incompressible, but air compresses and its density can be locally increased to where a film of it is essentially the same as water. There are many aircraft with stall speed below 70 mph. A few years ago, one of the top boatmakers in Texas made a big-deal introduction of their new hull capable of 90 mph. At a boat show in Corpus Christi, one demo passenger with his family member was not going to be satisfied until they saw that speed. The boat became airborne, swapped ends and flipped. The model name, the marketing hype all disappeared from the internet that day and became litigation discovery. Crossing the big bay, or the ship channel to fish near offshore (outside of the jetties), I always take pride in maintaining plane at the lowest possible speed, to make the ride cozy for everyone.

look for an aftermarket low-mass spool that will fit one of your existing baitcasters - you can make them cast less than 1/8 oz backlash-free. They're fairly common for Daiwa, Abu, and Shimano. If you want some offline search help, send me a pm and let's talk about your reels. It's not like you'll destroy the reel, but will have a swap-in spool just for the light stuff.

I plead the 5th. The oldest rod I own is Chubb, and don't fish, but it's fun to cast. Certainly the brand I've bought the most, presents for my dad, a few for myself and daughters, is Falcon - Lamiglas is a close second. The two rods I bought most recently, and the next I plan to buy are Valleyhill.

even more so, at very light drag load, the load of the click between main gear and key washer is a significant portion of the total load. At fishing drag loads, it's insignificant. @garroyo130 tough to follow what you're asking, but A/R on the reel is full-time roller-bearing - there's no dog or switch - is that what you're asking?

@Luke Barnes @Bluebasser86 For most of my life, a wise gentleman ran a family ranch and fish camp at the mouth of a creek and white bass pinch point in the river above a hill country reservoir - he finally had to shut down the camp over insurance liability, which was a tragic loss for access here. Everyone filleted their white bass in the creek. Gene fished cut bait and caught massive stripers in the creek mouth. fw drum - on the Gulf coast, they're gaspergou.

just a heads up - he may not see this unless you give him an @kazact95... It's a big board, and threads don't always get followed on p3

for my Alaska guide buddies, April steelhead is a rebirth every year - their personal trips sans guide fares. My buddy Brandon and me with an early July king - best eats on planet Earth.

My Zillion, '21 SV-TW 1000XH from AP, pays a lot of drag on slot redfish. Even a 14" redfish will take drag, just won't sleigh-ride your kayak like a mid-slot fish. I've never heard an audible click, though I always feel a light buzz through the lightweight ML rod. I would never call the drag jerky - but extremely smooth - paying drag to redfish is one of my favorite things with any rod and reel. When you're paying drag, the spool is turning the pinion gear, which is turning the main gear, but nothing else in the main shaft or main shaft stack is turning. I didn't see a part that makes a drag-pay click... ... @PhishLI sent me a TackleTour link that shows the clicker in the main gear, which makes sense. I like TackleTour. http://tackletour.com/reviewdaiwazillionsvtwgpg4.html Yes, that makes total sense. It's not a part you want to go after and refine, unless you desire to change the drag washer composition, total clean and lube, install an aftermarket thumb-bar, etc. Since last May, I'm sure my Zillion has paid 200 yds drag. I always set with a spring scale at 1/4 of my weakest link, which on this combo is rod max line rating - 1/4 of 12 lbs is 3 lbs., so that's my drag set. I really like the reel and the drag - and the cost-effective rod.

It's not true. My BFS tackle will out-distance comparable-rated spinning tackle and with lighter lures. BFS almost never fouls tiny plug hooks on the line, because nothing ever goes slack, while spinning tackle may foul them 3 out of 4 casts. There are still niches where spinning is superior (tandem rigs, bobber rigs), but it's not Everywhere.

get on your legislators - easier now than ever now by e-mail - and they want to hear from you. In the TX hill country, population growth is sucking groundwater dry, while fertilizer run-off increases - it kills the rivers first, then the bays. Mine all know me from my desalination for public water supply soapbox for 20 years. This is at least part of the reason I'm running TIC - some of these kids need to get on my soapbox when I step down. Here's my Imgur folder of field trips to the tailwater https://imgur.com/a/Etd30

@WC53 Possibly, but it will throw the 1/8 oz to 150' - that likely depends more on the reel. Fishing 1/8 oz across this tide pass, I was thumbing the reel to keep it out of my friends - this photo is at max zoom. We were on stacked snook this morning. I'm set up for UL lures with the Japanese Yamaga Blanks 82/B - it will throw the 1/16 oz to 140'. Extreme fun, but a mid-grade price, powerful butt, and even though the mid is fast, it's so long that it bends a lot with big fish - even rat reds. 13Fishing offers the Omen Green in 7'7" ML, which is rated 1/8-3/8 oz, but may throw the 1/16 better with your Curado. I brought up the 7'1' ML because it does everything you wished in your post.

Twenty-five years ago, I got jaded catching fish after fish on graphite fly rods and disc drag reels. Insulated from the fishing by the gear, and wondering why I was harassing the fish without enjoying it. Some fishermen reach this point, cut the hooks from their flies and count coup - they just want to be with the river. I started tinkering with old cane rods and matching click-pawl reels. The first time I hooked up a 20" rainbow in fast current on Heddon bamboo and click-pawl, went oh crap, what am I going to do now?- and remembered why we do this in the first place. Not long after that, I started up a fly fishing life group at church, taking 4 to 14 friends fishing somewhere in the hill country ever other weekend, teaching others how to use a fly rod and, especially, catch fish with it. Not long after that, I was fishing on tv with Frank Smethurst and Kevin Townsend. First thing you note about famous, infectious fishermen - they all turn into kids with a rod in hand. So find something that puts the adrenaline back - in you, or in others. How about snook on UL? I also run Trout in the Classroom for Texas (17 years now) - yesterday, distributed 8000 live eggs to 28 schools. That's another kind of adrenaline - taking kids (and HS aquatic science teachers) to the river to release trout fry they raised from eggs.

@WC53 The rod you're describing isn't that tough to find. A true 1/8 oz to 1/2 oz and keeping redfish out of dock piers (or under kayak) is exactly my full-time salt ML - 13Fishing Omen Green 7'1" ML - very light in hand and very cost-effective. $120 and good warranty. It would work equally well for bass. I have mine matched with a BFS-raced Zillion, and it's a blast on slot red (after slot red). Under load with a red taking drag.

John Browning's Win 1885 low-wall with Creedmoor sights, 75-yd 5-shot group Sight view through my favorite front globe insert no squirrel is safe inside an acre

Posted this on another thread - I added Twin Power in a round-about way. My buddy bought from Asian Portal - accidentally bought two. They oddly wouldn't pay for return shipping, and he offered me such a deal. This is the Stradic forged aluminum body with added forged aluminum rotor, a braid size 1215 spool in C3000MHG size, a better drag than my big-frame Stradic, and bench-finished in Japan for superb smoothness. Added my favorite counter-balanced handle.

Mid-length, mid-line-weight glass and small water is the ultimate training tool - you feel the rod load, learn to slow down and wait for the rod to load. An acquired skill that will help on your fastest graphite. I ran a fly fishing life-group from church for most of a decade, and every-other-weekend, took 4 to 14 people somewhere in the hill country - had 140 people on my e-mail list. I was buying up venerable ('70s) glass rods on ebay to outfit and teach people on the river. If you visit fiberglassflyrodders forum, you'll meet at least a couple of people I taught to do this.

make sure the spool tension knob is backed-off, giving side-to-side play in the spool. If the side plate is tensioned by the spool knob, the latch mechanism is also under load - you don't want to break anything. My Zillion latch is a booger, too stiff to push with a fingernail. I usually have to use a popsicle stick to both open and close it. @PressuredFishing - don't be hard on yourself, bro. There's no such thing as a dumb question. dumb would be not asking the question and breaking a latch lever...

I use venerable 5- and 6-wt e-glass for river bass, but I'm usually imitating small bait - nickel-size crayfish and 1" minnows. In hill country limestone creeks, it's often sight-fishing, and if you're doing this right, reading the water and sparing your casts, it's a fish every 3rd cast. I rarely use a 9-wt in the salt, and my best fly rod in the surf is RPLX-7. I've fished a 10-wt offshore - never found the dorado I wanted, but have caught suspended snapper on TS-350, mackerel near-shore (jetties) on TS-250 with the RPLX-7. My go-to inshore fly rod is 6/7 S-glass. There's a lot to be said for the S-g;ass, doesn't shock your joints like shooting the RPLX-7. Offshore, inshore and near-shore is also sight-fishing, and the times to blind-fish are high-probability phenomena such as blackwater and tide-pass current.