bulldog1935

@Jay9527 everything is going to cast farther than dc, by definition. DC applies brakes 1000 /s Lightweight (Mg) spool (or honeycomb alloy) have such low inertia, they respond to less brake force for longer cast. Casting is ballistic - speed is everything in distance.

The all-time slime demon is gafftopsail catfish on the coast. While the meat is quite good, handling these fish and dealing with their plastic slime on everything (your line, your rod) is a horror.

Have to agree with Abu CT for ultimate distance - even better with Avail microcast spool (2012 world champion), braid and Avail internal mag brake. For my fishing, the greatest practical 1/4-oz distance is ZPI Alcance - magnesium spool, titanium spindle, and tuned mag brake cam. For the 3/4 oz, I think you'd be hard-pressed to beat Steez SV TW or Metanium MGL.

Blown out over the weekend. Though the fishing was a bust, the RV'ing was still fun, still enjoyed the paddling, and got our seafood (and fishbowl Rita) fix

People who are after the trout are missing the point of trout fishing. The good news is most of those people stack up at the stocking points. The point of trout fishing is busting far away from the crowds to where the trout don't know the difference between stocked and native. For me on a month project in Kingsport, TN, it was Beaverdam Creek. Had to drive through miles of VA where the river was wall to wall trout stamps. As soon as I crossed the state line back into TN, it was all mine. The trout I'll never forget required laying across a leaning tree and daubing the fly just upstream from her.

From college in Nashville, would visit my grandfather on his farm in McNairy Co. Picwick was close, and remember April days with a fly rod below the dam. Could sit on the ramp and troll the fly rod in the generator eddy - and catch Tennessee tarpon at the rate of 100/hr.

kitties like mudflaps

obstinate can definitely be a "quality" of fly fishermen. While long brave casts are rarely useful, they most often put down fish, and beginning fly fishermen become hung up on casting. Catching fewer fish does not mean it's time to cast more - catching fewer fish is usually the result of casting more. Adding to the skill set, reading water is important, and that's where I've always had a natural skill (not that thinking like a fish is a challenge). The goal of sight-fishing is catching a fish every cast. I will stand by my statement and results. Alaska in September - they were all this size gorged on salmon flesh and eggs - one every 3rd cast. Had to kick salmon carcasses aside to step into the river, and the black slate bottom was pink with salmon eggs. More proof about Gary Borger's trout IQ data - whatever could entice these fish to take your fly under those conditions. 24 of these was enough to call the day, and send me to the firepit for a cigar and cognac.

Two places where fly rod shines - moving water, and sight-fishing. While moving water includes tide passes, I keep telling my friends salt finesse makes salt fly rod obsolete. If you're not catching a fish every 3rd cast on a fly rod, you're using it wrong. Stealth is the most important skill. Been fly fishing since 1974, have caught well over 100 species on fly rod, and fished on national TV twice. Used to run a fly fishing life group from church, and guided 4 to 14 friends every other weekend. Ran out of things to prove decades ago. Thirty years ago, I became so jaded catching fish-after-fish on graphite and disc drag, wondering why I was harassing the fish - many fly fishermen reach this point, clip the hooks on their flies and count coup. I made the switch to old cane rods and click-pawl reels and again found the oh-crap-what-am-I-going-to-do-now feeling I'm on the board of GRTU, and run Trout in the Classroom for Texas Adding to what Cap'n Phil said below, fly fishing is about where you go to use it. Most fish, btw, are caught at your feet - back to that stealth thing. I'll add that mid-length, mid-line-weight glass rods from the '70s fit best in water like just above.

There's a major overlap between inshore gear and bass gear, anyway. 7' rods +/-, MH, ML, finesse... Some heavy bass rods are faster for specific niches, especially deep - inshore is usually no more than 3' deep.

Here's my Twin Power 3000MHG with Yumeya spare spool installed (Exsense color) and Livre (Union) handle + balancer/hook-keeper. If you stick with Shimano and Daiwa, good aftermarket parts will let you make your reel custom, and look however you choose

here's a Shimano Vanquish C2000S - JDM only, magnesium frame, titanium bail; parts matching and hand-tuning in Japan. It's the lowest-inertia spinning reel made. No crank start resistance, and the mechanism does not push your hand when you stop.

That's the thing if you have the cast reliability and can make the switch to braid, it moves the tackle into the next realm - 0.007" dia is 27-lb test in X-braid (PE#1.2)

@Tatulatard I know Major Craft makes spinning salt finesse (rockfish) rods - didn't know they made bait. Here's our normal use In addition to winter dock fishing, we use them for spring tide passes - targeting speckled trout, snook, and sight-fishing redfish. I have a shot coming this weekend. My buddy ended his first Major Craft UL rockfish (after 3 hard years) on the trip above (the solid tip split). He replaced with an upgrade to Yamaga Blanks BCIII-711 I still have two old Takamiya rockfish rods that have been at this 12+ years.

@Jigfishn10 This is definitely the way Japanese long salt finesse is heading - I wouldn't call progressive taper necessarily whippy, but 8'2" Yamaga blanks, 2-20-g range, is pretty flexy in the tip, long fast mid, stout butt. I wouldn't fish this rod from a kayak - it's a shore light game rod, perfect for docks and wading - you wouldn't want to fight a slot fish going under the boat. The biggest advantage this has is casting light plugs - they never foul, while casting on comparable spinning tackle, light plugs foul more often than not. Valleyhill makes a similar range of rods through MH - their bass BFS all range rods are definitely Fast tip, and 6'7". Here are two Valleyhill salt BFS rods, 7'2" and 7'6" https://fishingshop.kiwi/VALLEY-HILL-Cyphlist-HRX-Pro-Spec-Hard-Rock-Edition-CPRC-72LS-RFF/ - 1/16 to 3/8 oz https://fishingshop.kiwi/VALLEY-HILL-Cyphlist-HRX-Pro-Spec-Hard-Rock-Editione-CPRC-76MMS-RFF/ - 1/8 to 1/2 oz These are targeted for boat fishing. Note the bait versions have only been out a few years, but the Japanese have been fishing shore light game with rods like this for centuries.

I'll say it again. If Shimano had access to Daiwa's MagForce/SV patents, we wouldn't see centrifugal brakes at all. There's also a mistaken belief on this forum that what makes BFS is somehow a fad. What makes BFS is going to become the Norm in baitcasters - we already see the trend in Okuma Hakai, before that ZPI Alcance, and Shimano's use of magnesium baitcast spools. This is fast becoming the normal braid set-up for an MH baitcaster.

What @redmeansdistortion said - look there for AMO Official Store. Though from the wording of his question, sounds like he already found it.

Ruling out BFS is missing out on casting Fun (with a capital F). Pocket rocket reels are a hoot, spinning is productive fishing, but BFS is FUN (and did I say fun?)

TackleDirect lists these four model lines - pretty much all offshore applications and inexpensive, especially for that niche. https://www.tackledirect.com/rods.html#/filter:manufacturer:Ande No mention of Fuji components, but aluminum oxide guide inserts.

Duel X-wire remains my favorite braid on baitcaster, I'm fishing down to PE#0.8 It's offered in 5-color that changes every 10 m, and silver with no marks. X-wire seems to have the same hard fluopolymer coating as Varivas High Grade, which I'm using on a spinning reel in PE#0.6. Yamatoyo Resin Sheller hardcoat in PE#1 is on my 4600 AMO spool, and fishes quite well, though the X-wire coating is more abrasion-resistant. Several of my friends are fishing 10-lb Sufix 832 with no complaints. BaitFinesseEmpire, btw, stocks a range of Varivas, including High Grade x8 in PE#0.6

@Jhow Take them to this website https://reeltalk.orcaonline.org/index.php You'll find big salt reel collectors there, also vintage bass fishermen (who also use vintage gear), and vintage fly fishermen alike. Pflueger Supreme on American Fork & Hoe (later TrueTemper) square-section steel rod. Heddon #17 Black Beauty at work, matched with c. 1932 Heddon Little Rivers reel made by Shakespeare.

this is about as specific as you can get - the rod blade is Smith SS FO-56 Topwater Light (S-glass blend), the reel my braid-raced Ambassadeur 4600. The rod is rated 5 g to 14 g, optimized for 12 g - my goal was 1/2-oz frog and Hutley's 11-12 g dog-walking plugs, Zara Spook Jr, etc. This combo skips 1/4 to 1/2 oz like crazy because the rod casts off the tip and the reel is set up so totally backlash proof. my target is close kayak fishing in small water like this This is a deep blue hole, where a river comes out of the aquifer into the coastal plain - can't tell you how many bass hopped from the tops of the watercress when I paddled up behind Josh. Behind me is the confluence with another river, and wider water that looks kinda the same - cold and deep.

found the first bluebonnet of the year

again, the answer is in this post There is no start-up jerk casting light lures, so a centrifugal brake is never needed. The only backlash concern is mid-cast wind backlash, where mag brake shines. Tuning reels, setting up brakes, building reels, I've noticed centrifugal brakes cost distance when casting light lures. Centrifugal just gets in the way on BFS reels, adding rotating mass and physical-contact drag on a spool you're hoping that a gram or two will keep pulling past the gravity hump - - think finesse. (No, centrifugal doesn't "turn off" during cast - the brake load relaxes, but the friction is always there.) (Dual brakes are worse for adding spool mass, and I sold both my centrifugal brake Lew's when I discovered Super Duty G cast farther and more reliably) On this 1500C, with Avail spool, the normal, removable centrifugal brake has been replaced by a blank spacer, and even the Avail internal mag brake that will pop into either side of the reel frame, only needed two out of six magnets. The lightest- and farthest-casting Daiwa aftermarket spool, RoroX, eliminates the MagForce/SV moving rotor complication, turning the Daiwa brake into linear mag. The only time you need centrifugal or equivalent MagForce/SV (nonlinear mag) is at spool start up when throwing heavy weights. Set your mag brakes to eliminate mid-cast backlash with the lightest thing you're going to throw. The only time you will need more mag is casting into the wind.

still no, that's 3 g to 70' with a 5-1/2' rod and a LW braid 4600 targeted for 1/2 oz. The 8' rod is a surf rod that will cast 1/4 oz to over 65 yds and 1/2 oz to over 100 yds with my braid modified 5500CT Do you have a first language? あなたは第一言語を持っていますか