bulldog1935

this is easy. What you want to do is order a JDM 3000MHG spool, and load it with either 10-lb Sufix 832 braid, or a good JDM braid in PE#1.2, such as YGK Bornrush or Varivas Avanti (the X-braids will be 25-lb test). This is a shallow spool made just for braid, and will hold 150 m of the lines I listed - what you gain with this spool is perfect line lay. Casting problem solved. This answer means something. https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product/4580 Unfortunately, hedgehog doesn't sell line, but you can get the spool and Varivas line both from https://www.plat.co.jp/ My Twin Power 3000MHG with the YGK Bornrush is a rocketship (7'3" salt MH) Essentially casting the same weight range, and on a particularly good rod. One thing you must learn casting braid is manual bail technique, so your line is tight before you begin retrieve. Generally, I only fish spinning in the dark, since likely can't see the lure land. I'd be throwing a Spook before first light with this. I'll also add this rod has the moderate tip that both casts and fishes topwaters best (rated 1/8 to 7/8 oz).

I have a hard time buying into the whole Endorsed rod or reel thing. Part of the cost goes into the endorser's pocket. Seems like you'd get more for your money from one that wasn't endorsed, or just go JDM, especially now that all Japan is 30% off.

170 degrees is likely where the resin will begin to break down. They'll be part gas and part soot by 500 degrees.

Wraps and glass (S-glass/graphite blend). Smith Super Strike, made for a round reel.

As far as stretch goes, there's elastic stretch, which you want - it relaxes back to ground state. Beyond that is plastic (permanent) stretch, which you don't want. This came up on another thread about wind knots - if you could look at the permanent stretch under a microscope, you'd see a thinned line, with thicker round nodes every fraction of a mm. The nodes are where the physical structure of the polymer is changing - the polymer chains are coiling up into little balls (if you want to look it up, they're fringed micelles). (Still doesn't relate to the OP's question, which was about backlash)

and do it with jerk... btw, casting rods break under torsion - the guides on top are trying to twist around to the bottom. This is why your rod breaks are always at 45-degrees across the blank.

some measure of shock allowance and absorption. Braid has virtually zero stretch before it breaks. The stretch in leader protects your rods as well as your braid and your hook-ups. The reason you pick 1/4 of your weakest link for drag set is that shock loading can multiply the stress by a factor of four, but even that is only an estimate - the shock loading factor can be even greater. Having leader there to stretch may make all the difference between a broken rod, broken line, and torn fish mouth. In salt, I also add titanium bite traces - titanium wire has much higher elasticity and ductility compared to both braid and stainless wire, and it's tooth-proof. But I still have leader between the braid and bite trace.

SPR worked so well it lasted 2 years, was discontinued in 2014, and aimed at casting 4-7 g. If you haven't read this so far on this thread, if you can't reduce spool mass and inertia, you still need a centrifugal brake for start-up. This isn't a thread about 30-y-o spools, or even about 10-y-o ideas that were abandoned for better ones. Every generation of MagForce/SV is improved since then, and if it didn't work better than SPR centrifugal, you'd be buying Air SPR today. careful, I've made that last argument on this forum without acceptance that BFS means anything except Bass. Freaking ChoirMaster here.

oops - I misread this, anyway. It would still help to know what model reel we have here. You need to get the spool out. That means taking one side from the reel (or the other depending on the reel model). One thing that also comes to mind is that the line could just be backlashed, Line could be jammed against the frame, could be outside the spool between the spool and frame, etc. You need to get the spool out, and see what needs cleaning up. It may be time to get the old line off the spool and start over. We're still guessing from too limited information. We are making progress - we know the casting button and link is working.

that's not going to work casting 1/16 oz beyond arms' reach There's no reason having a reel tuned for the job at hand is cheating. Learning how to remove backlash from tiny threadline doesn't have to be required. This prewar freespool does nicely with 1/8 oz and 4-lb silk threadline. Alloy spool with shallow factory cork arbor - this is what it was made for. (unfortunately, most of the shallow cork arbors were destroyed for mono) I bought a very nice 1500C from Don Iovino, who used all the Avail LW parts I would have used. Don did me right, and the price was great. But with stock spool, it still cast like a 30-y-o Ambassadeur. Swapping the spool and brakes for BFS turned it into a 1/16 oz gigglefest. I have a place to fish this - we have an endemic river bass that lives in faster warmwater than trout would occupy in cold - 15" is a lunker for the species.

If you cannot produce end play in the spool by backing off the tension cap, the pinion gear is not being lifted from the spool pin by the clutch link, and cleaning isn't the issue. oops - see my post below What freaking reel make and model are we talking about?

there's no such thing as nonlinear mag brake without moving rotor. I've had my hands on centrifugal brakes for over 40 years, inside and out, built reels, cast and tuned 2 to 5 g, and can verify there's also no such thing as centrifugal without friction during mid cast. That may be different for Shimano SVS, but never found the need for one. This is a really nice centrifugal brake for casting heavy weights, but it robs distance with anything less than 3/8 oz Deep spool and all, this will blow it off the water casting 1/8 oz. This is also a thread about BFS brakes, specifically, which relates to modern spools The spinning is not what engages Ambassadeur centrifugal brakes, but the acceleration and jerk, which is also true for nonlinear mag brake.

You can get some pretty nice leather document tubes on Etsy for reasonable cost. They'll hold up to 3 rods (3-pc) and get great respect at TSA My kayak bow hold multipiece tube came with my TackleDirect $100 multipiece back-up, and it keeps 3 rods in socks for me. (looked for a photo, can't find it)

Actually, 10-lb silk is a serious joy compared to casting mono. (1881 cover page links to chapter on fishing lines) but claiming to be able to compare modern 30-lb PE thread to linen cuttyhunk is beyond ridiculous 100-y-o silk line, btw, is perfect today if it was kept from mildew by drying on a line drier after each outing. I've even caught big trout on varnished silk fly line, silk-gut leader, eyeless hook dropper rig - just for grins, to be able to say I did it. You have to soak silk gut leader overnight, and carry it to the river in a tin against wet wool felt. Got a double one day. (I always fish cane with trout, and with modern lines - fishing cane feels like nothing plastic).

The differences in braid over the past 15 years are Much More Significant than the differences in nylon and fluorocarbon monofilament over the past 70 years. Just a half-dozen years ago, 4x uncoated braids were best used for backing on trolling reels. What's happened in the last 4 years with fine-fiber, center-strand, fused and coated X-braids is next-level. After they increased the strength by 60%, now they're working on the coatings. We get nit-picky about our mono mainline, leader, toughness, diameter, abrasion resistance, low memory, etc (limp and low memory are polar opposites, unless you want braid). But the word braid is lumped and used generically, and if you don't try it, or maybe listen to someone who has, you may not recognize the progress or the differences.

Not only do I know what I post, I know what I'm talking about. You made the ignore list with that, and I'll never read another. The Lenz force that mag brake exerts is proportional to speed of the moving conductor, and the slope of that line is set by the distance from the magnet to the moving conductor. It can be adjusted to less than a breath of air. This is a thread about BFS reels and light weights. A linear mag brake adds Less brake than a nonlinear mag brake. Duh. Nonlinear (SV) mag adds extra start-up brake, but only when needed. When the rotor is not moving deeper into the magnetic field, it is a linear mag brake. Centrifugal applies continued friction through the whole cast. You won't notice it casting big weights - that's just as insignificant today with big weights as it was 50 years ago. But it will cut your 3-g cast distance in half, or reduce it by even more. Momentum doesn't start centrifugal brakes - it takes force (acceleration) and especially jerk, which is the time-derivative of force.

I also use Ray's Studio SV spool full time on my salt ML. fishing opposite sides of a tide pass, casting 1/8 oz, I have to thumb this reel to keep it out of my friends. It won't cast 3 g toe to toe with Roro-X, and it won't start-up backlash pushing 2 ounces. Quite honestly, there is no better way to fish braid. will the SV spool cover bad casting habits with light lures? yes, up to a point

horse hockey - preferences and bad casting casting habits aren't part of the discussion. It's about optimizing reels for casting weight. This rod gets the Ray's Studio SV spool so it can fish the 5/8 oz, which it casts with aplomb - the fast tip on this rod is anything but goosey. Even with the Much shorter rod and 2-gram-heavier spool, this casts 3 g beyond 120', and casts heavier weights better than the Roro-X spool. At least part of that is casting 3 g doesn't move the SV moving rotor. Whatever energy you don't have to remove with brakes to prevent backlash goes into longer cast distance. best skipping rod I've ever used, with reverse spiral cast, along with the reel I built for it. The internal mag brake is set to cast 3 g, and two centrifugal shoes is all it needs for 1/2 oz and more.

I've built and set up enough reels to know. Removed centrifugal when it was a deficit, though more often dialing in shoes for max lure weight. You tune mag brakes at the light end, and you tune centrifugal at the heavy end. When you need centrifugal is when the spool and line mass has inertia at start up - e.g., 1500C with loaded stock spool - but the friction is still creating brakes when it's no longer needed. However, the heavy 30-y-o spool is also off topic for this thread. With the old spool it casts like an old Ambassadeur, and that's how you set it up. With a BFS spool, it casts like a BFS reel, and that's how you set it up. I'm also a licensed professional engineer and a continuum mechanics weenie. I was casting weightless rigs on Ambassadeur 40 years ago, and could double anyone's spinning cast with the same light weight by making a spiral cast - a centrifugal cast is completely without jerk, and can easily get the 20% higher release speed - if the Ambassadeur centrifugal was engaging, the cast wouldn't go as far. As the cast is going to overhead, you're already feeding line with your thumb, so the spool doesn't accelerate from zero at release. It's just like a trebuchet, but it's a cast you can only make from the corner of a dock or the corner of a boat, but it's also a cast you don't need with a modern low inertia spool. Let's cast toe to toe. The snook was caught on a 2.8-g plug imitating winter glass minnows, and cast on Roro-X spool. That night, I was easily casting the lure 130' (across the light at the next dock - my buddy wasn't able to get his UL over there), I can duplicate that distance every cast in my back acre.

Easy. Light lures don't create enough start-up jerk to need centrifugal. The only backlash is Wind Backlash, where linear mag brake shines. I removed the centrifugal from my 1500C, and replaced it with a spacer. Only need 2 magnets in the Avail mag brake. I've said before, if Shimano could use Daiwa's MagForce/SV patents, they would. Shimano has taken the SVS approach, trying to make a variable centrifugal brake that essentially disappears during mid cast - this is exactly what Mag Force does - acts like a centrifugal brake at start-up (if forces are high enough) and returns to linear mag. Roro-X spools for Daiwa eliminate the SV function, and are only linear mag brake.

@Mick D I include it in lure, etc. orders from Plat and especially FishingShop.kiwi (who subtracts Japan VAT). Wasn't specifically recommending it as much as discussing the coating differences. Varivas also makes X-braid with Casting-hard coatings. Sufix 832 is very well behaved and reliable - advantage to X-braid is twice the strength for the same diameter.

@Mick D I like your post. I don't experience that problem, and I'm using X-braids, PE#0.8 (16-lb) to PE#1.2 (27-lb). (ok, and PE#1.5, 35-lb in surf) In general, I'm casting lighter weights than most (except the surf), which is where braid really shines, 1/8 to 3/8 oz, and 1/2 oz on a tuned rig. Most recently, I've been fishing my braid-raced Ambassadeur 1500C on stream UL rod for endemic bass (Texas Brook Trout), and giggling over casting 1/8 oz (and 1/16 oz) - way farther than I need. You could be onto something with non-coated braids. The coated braids (e.g. X-braids) have an FEP coating that is fused when the woven strand is also fused, so they should not soak up water. The softer coatings have an advantage on spinning tackle, while the harder coatings are needed on baitcaster - my first choice for B/C is Duel X-wire.

There's an essay missing on the reel model and the individual reel history. Aside from needing a lot more information to give an intelligent answer, first thing I would do is open the spool tension cap, and see if you can generate side play in the spool. If you can, it is was probably just too tight and likely dirty. If you can't, the pinion gear is not being lifted from the spool pin, and you can work on the link diagnosis from there.

line memory does not equate to backlash Backlash is caused by the spool outrunning the lure. Here's the complete skinny on backlash. analyze your backlash and figure out what's going on. We can work on it from there. Line memory is annoying enough that I fish braid to eliminate it. But again, line memory doesn't cause or relate to backlash.

good scissors (same Cuda micros posted below) and titanium MMC knife (caronitride - self sharpening). and have no reason to complain about braid - ever hey - what else is a metallurgist going to use you can also eat your lunch with it.