bulldog1935

For toothy fish (and snook gill plates) in salt XUL, I fish titanium-wire bite traces (5 kg test) from eastern Europe - these are sold as Pike Leaders. Mako from Ukraine is shut down, but last time I needed these, I ordered Dragon brand from Poland.

This is the English tradition of coarse fishing, when trout and salmon belonged to the lords only, and common people had to fish for carp and tench. (Albert Finney making a Wallace cast in Saturday Night and Sunday Morning)

@Ravox For us, finesse goes way back, nite-lite dock fishing nursery seatrout with my girls. Any coast trip, it was a ritual to eat a meal at Cap'n Benny's, then release 40 of these the hour after sunset from Fulton Beach Pier - then ice cream. (She's in grad school at TAMU) I bought a pair of XUL rockfish rods from Japan to pick up where Zebo UL-1 and Eagle Claw Featherlite left off. They added great light-rig reach to the edge of the lights over Falcon UL rod and Penn 4200SS. They have solid tip for protecting 2-lb test, and weave-graphite butt for fish-turning power. One summer night watching massive specs milling over submerged green canal lights and occasionally flaring to scoop tiny mullet, I had to break out one of the rods and jig up a big spec on 2" swim shad. Discovered that night this XUL tackle had the backbone to land a 22" and a 23" speckled trout. Where we've really honed this is winter glass minnows in tide passes up the coast, and Arroyo Colorado barge channel in far south Texas. The Japanese tradition of threadline fishing goes back farther than our perspective, but for our bandwidth, they began with salt shore, moved to stream trout, and finally to bass. Tide passes and deep channels are so much like river fishing already, the lures made for stream trout work great there with a simple hook swap. Then for me, it's easy to back up with the stream trout tackle to fish our hill country endemic bass, which occupy the same fast-current in limestone creeks that trout do in coldwater, and a lunker for the species is 15 inches. The reservoir bass fishing takes more dedication for me, because it's so much easier to choose a breezy coast flat or shady limestone cypress tunnel.

Photos below borrowed from a friend on FFR, who took his down first thing. The USM-only Vanford 500F is a Vanford in name only. It's not a long-stroke worm-drive reel based on the '18 Stella, as are the '19 Stradic, '20 Vanford, '21 Twin Power, '19 Vanquish, etc. (In the worm-drive series, Vanford is a new name for the next Stradic CI4+) Rather, the 500F is the JDM '16 Soare CI4+ locomotive drive, given Vanford markings.

Vanford 1000F would be my choice for that UL rod. I could identify it in JDM, but one of the 2500 reels should also be the small frame with a larger diameter spool - you can identify it because it weighs 160 g. I fish JDM Vanquish C2000S on a very similar rod, which is the same reel as USM 1000 size Shimano, but a shallower braid spool and lower gearing. I also have JDM Stradic C2000SHG, which is the exact same reel as USM Stradic 1000FL (and cost $60 less). JDM 1000 size, btw, is a slightly smaller diameter spool (again, USM 1000 size is a JDM 2000 size spool) I would reserve the 175+g medium-bodied Shimano for ML and heavier rods (and then, I'd go to JDM C3000SHG to get the larger diameter shallow braid spool in the medium body). I have my C3000SHG matched with a JDM 7'3" salt "ML" that's rated 7-24 g - to me, that's closer to MH. The medium-body reels offer carbontex drag, The small body reels only offer fiber drag, but I catch big seatrout, respectable snook and drum on mine. If it helps, here's the chart with weights and capacities on the JDM Vanford https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/shimano-20-vanford/ If suspect your Vanford 1000F is the same as JDM C2000SHG.

@fishwizzard I have a friend who swears by nose grease, and then swears again at streamside, with his rod behind his knees doing some yoga thing, trying to separate the pieces. Think about this same conversation and result happening over and over on every trip - "I use nose grease" A quarter-size flat, round candle fits very nicely in your fishing bag. Both Fenwick and J. Kennedy Fisher put paraffin wax in writing in the 80s. (Fenwick wrote it on their Ferralite rods)

Braid to leader works great - there are several good knot options - FG knot, Alberto, improved Allbright. I've been rolling Allbright knots 40 years, so I'm set with those. when I tie them at the bench, I wet the finished knot with thin super glue. You'll also want a swivel with your rooster tails (always a good idea with spinning). Several options, tie in the swivel for your braid/leader joint. I put a perfection loop in my leader business end, and loop-on micro-swivel bite traces, micro-hook swivels, paper clip, complex rigs, or sacrificial fluoro tippet (for tying direct). @newapti5 from filling spools, I've found 832 is slightly thicker than reported, and X-braid is slightly thinner than reported.

A good argument for Cal's drag grease on drag washers. The inside and outside thickness of drag washers need to be greased, to keep them from seizing in the main gear recess and on the main shaft.

What's left out of the Lew's BB-1 discussion above is that patent was the first reel to separate LW from freespool (since 1918 Douglas patent), letting it cast like the NLW reels of the nineteen-teens. It was never a low-profile reel as often gets suggested. The only thing it has in common with LP reels is separating LW from freespool. In fact, my 4600C is an easier thumb reach on straight-reel-seat than a BB-1 @redmeansdistortion the spool and lightweight LW rider (throw in Mike's zirconia pawl) are the most important changes to Ambassadeur (though Mike's pawl won't work on 1500/2500C). Air spool bearings, BB LW and idler gear are gravy. As you know, you can do most of the LW-slick with polishing bushings and mating spindles. As to Why, few reels are more fun to cast than a raced-out Ambassadeur.

I can see why you wouldn't like the exposed threads on that reel seat for palming - the threads are on your fingertips where you want to feel the rod, or at least something smooth. My Valleyhill Raison has the reel seat that impressed me most on a bass rod - Fuji TCS They call it a "pipe" reel seat - the threads are moved far forward, and you tighten it with an EVA fore grip, which Valleyhill dressed up nicely with a grip ring for tightening.

Paraffin (gulfwax, candle wax) on male ferrule is correct. You only need the finest film - when you apply it, remove all you can - the film will be there. You should Never twist ferrules into final snug position. Do all your twisting before the ferrule is tight. Align the guides - by eyeball if there are no alignment marks - then push the two halves Straight home to snug.

If 3000 size means Shimano, consider the JDM 3000MHG spool size - the shallow spool capacity is perfect for either 8-lb fluoro or 15-lb braid - you'll get perfect line lay, and the 47-mm spool diameter will be nicer to your fluoro than a smaller diameter spool. https://fishing.asian-portal.shop/category/select/pid/316262 51in current stock at Asian Portal. They also have big stock of Stradic 3000MHG for $165. Adding line will get you free Fed-Ex shipping (may have to throw in a lure or 2 with the Stradic) They won't have Tatsu, but have Kureha Seaguar R18 (equivalent to Tatsu) https://fishing.asian-portal.shop/category/select/pid/310287 The fluoro I like better than Tatsu is Toray ExThread https://fishing.asian-portal.shop/category/select/pid/309856

You won't get used to it with giant-inertia stock spool and heavy LW parts (more inertia) - start-up backlash requires thumbing and end tension. Though your new B/C will feel like a dream. Hedgehog Studio custom parts list for your grandad's reel - current stock may not be there, but Avail makes microcast spool in two depths (3 mm and 5 mm - you can fish 10-lb fluoro on 5 mm spool). (Avail may eventually cycle around to more of these, or you can search ebay) You can put 5500 6.3 gears in it, but no need - just keep the handle short. No reel is easier to work on. You can make a braid-raced Ambassadeur and set it up 100% backlash proof. I set this up for 1/2-oz niche, but it casts 3 g to 30 (This is 6.3-geared Express, and gets long handle) you could treat this as a long-term project and end up with a reel high in your rotation "High speed" on 1500/2500C is only 4.1 gears, and with the small spool dia, only 16 ips. I fish the fool out of this, though I am targeting moving water. ps - Avail offers 6.3 gears for this reel, but I like my short Haneda Craft handle.

If you want braid on a finesse spinning reel for bass lures, you want to fish C2000S. C2000SSS is even shallower for even thinner braid, PE#0.3 or PE#0.4, or 1.5-lb mono. 500 size reels are also for XUL - fishing sub-gram lures on threadline. I've fished this 500 combo in salt XUL for a dozen years. If you're in the Best Finesse Spinning Reel market you say, get the Vanquish C2000S, and put 6- to 10-lb braid on it. @Jeffrey Walker If you're trying to talk yourself into buying a Vanford 500, it's a $240 turd made only for USM - it doesn't exist in JDM - it has locomotive drive, and doesn't have a braid spool. (it's a repackaged '17 Soare with Vanford makeup on its face) All the USM 1000 reels are the JDM C2000SHG reels (including the deep mono spool) Since you know it all, why did you ask. If you want to fish 1-1/2-lb mono, you're not looking for finesse bass tackle, you're looking for XUL (extreme ultralight). BFS = Bait Finesse System - it's a baitcast reel with shallow lightweight spool, and low-inertia micro-bearings, some have modified LW pitch to handle <PE#0.8.

Spinning reel - do not pass go, but go to JDM and buy a reel with shallow braid-specific spool. E.g., Vanquish C2000S, or any Stradic to Stella in C2000S. Again JDM, Daiwa Alphas Air is on sale all over Japan, in anticipation of Zillion Silver Wolf release this summer. Or watch intently and snag the Silver Wolf. I'm anything but a fanboy, but Daiwa casting brake has this pegged.

BaitFinesseEmpire is a good US source for tackle, and they import quite a bit of JDM finesse tackle. The Old Reliable Best-Behaved braid is Sufix 832, which I fish down to 6-lb (0.14 mm dia). You should have no problem fishing 8- or 10-lb for the weights you're describing. Here's the capacity calculator for different line diameters on your spool. This one is for stacking different line diameters on your spool. Braid on spinning - the reel must have a ball-bearing line roller (preferably in good condition). All this began with creek fishing in Japan, where you'll find X-braid down to PE#0.3 (0.09 mm dia) - the smallest I fish on spinning is PE#0.5, and the smallest on baitcaster is PE#0.8. If you notice, the X-braids are over twice strength/dia. as 832 When you get to these tiny thread-size braids, shallow spools for both spinning and baitcaster are necessary. Of course, rather than customizing a tiny Ambassadeur for this niche, the simplest and most cost-effective way to get into BFS is to buy a ready-to-go BFS reel, or even better, fit a micro-cast, honeycomb, etc. BFS spool and "Air" BFS spool bearings to your existing low profile baitcaster. If you have a reel you want to try, send me a pm, and we'll see if we can find a Momo spool on "Express" website.

I won a $250 gift certificate from Moosejaw for my review of Astral Hiyak shoes. Turned it into a free ThermaRest Tent-Cot

I fished nothing but 12- or 14-lb BigGame mono until knot strength sold me on Seguar fluoro (vs. all other early fluoro offerings). The stiffness of monofilament over completely limp braid will have its greatest advantage working out your first backlashes. Braid backlash will make 180-degree folds that you may not be able to find or pick-out without a plastic toothpick. Jack, a 300- or 600-yd bulk spool of mono is the way to begin (more than a reel-charge pack). 12-lb YoZuri hybrid - that's a great choice. Also, don't begin by attempting long brave casts, but short accurate casts, training your thumb to modulate cast distance and stop the spool. Slowly work your way out. When your thumb is working better, try overhead casts for distance.

In fly fishing, the rule is nylon floats, fluorocarbon sinks.

I have Valleyhill rods that have adjustable counterweights in the butt, and they're still the lightest rods I own for their length and power. They're at the top of my rotation for the whole package, but the light weight makes them stand out. My go-to ML baitcaster is 13Fishing Omen Green, its light weight has floored me from day one. It's half the cost of the rod above, but isn't going anywhere, except out on my kayak Every trip. A rod that I've loved the action from day one is my IM6 MM Crowder. It's a beautiful rod, powerful fish handling, and action perfectly matches my presentation with 1/4 oz TSL grasswalker neutral density walking bait, also 3/8 oz jigheads. But because of the weight, it's become second-tier to the Valleyhill I show above, which also fishes a wider weight range (1/4 to 1 oz). @zelmo something alluded to above is torsion of the rod because of tip weight. This is where counterweights can help. Whether 1 ounce is a big deal is going to depend on how it's balanced on the rod. A big tip-heavy rod is more work to cast, and it can also dampen feel of the bait. One thing I've mentioned about my Omen is that I feel every blade of grass through it.

Sorry, I can't answer your question exactly, but I own the Revo on amphetamines, JDM ZPI Alcance with magnesium spool, titanium spindle, and tuned mag-brake cam. It comes with a deeper 11-g spool, this is the shallow 7-g spool. Both reels you listed are on closeout, and prices look good where you can find them. MGX is magensium frame and IVCB-4 centrifugal brake, though aluminum spool. AL-F is compact version said to be based on the same reel, but with aluminum frame - Infiniti dual brake system.

No offense to Mick, this should be a no-brainer. I didn't set up my first braid reel until backlash was less than a distant memory. Most of the reels you buy off the shelf are set up for mono, and this is where everybody should begin on baitcaster (a few here will take exception). Even when I build a braid-specific reel, I set up the brakes casting disposable mono (or yozuri hybrid) from a bulk spool. Don't mess with braid until your confidence is over the top.

@Ravox if it feels like excessive freeplay to you, sending it to Daiwa under warranty is the right way to go. It could be the set in the cam spring, or @garroyo130's booger shim washer could be misplaced. I think Daiwa's clutch plate design has to be stronger, since there are no holes for clutch bar pins and screws across the narrow width, vs. Doyo and Shimano designs. Also, either of their designs would take the same effort to remove the clutch plate - they just made the thumb bar easy to swap.

The question is whether it's really loose, or whether it's just freeplay in the mechanism. My Zillion is rock solid with zero movement, my Steez has limited travel before you feel that solid engagement. If you want my thought, it's a slight set in the clutch cam spring. fwiw, the screw that fixes the clutch bar to the cam plate is inside the reel at the bottom of the drive, and the entire drive comes out to get there. Photos borrowed from KDW, who makes aftermarket thumb bars for these and other reels --- only Daiwa is this complicated (Shimano and Doyo only require removing the spool to replace the thumb bar) https://kakedzukass.com/daiwa-steez-assembly-procedure-explanation/

I sold mine. (and bought another Super Duty G) This may be one of the best reels for casting big weights (with bad form), but I do fine casting 1 oz lures on my linear-mag reels, and SD blows TP out of the water casting 1/4 oz. Back to Fuego, this curve explains why MagForce gives the same start-up protection as centrifugal, and is able to cast to greater distance. https://japantackle.com/tackle_topics/brake_system.htm I fished nothing but Lew's since Daiwa wouldn't support parts on my 7-y-o Millionaire 6H in 1985, 2019 Steez SV TW was my first Daiwa purchase since 1978. If others could copy Daiwa's patents, there wouldn't be any other casting brake on the market.