bulldog1935

My Omen Green is the least expensive rod I fish, and I would replace it in kind in a heartbeat. I brought it up again on this later thread, and came back to edit when I had more time to thank @Eric 26 13Fishing imports their blanks from Japan. Their mid-and top-grade rods seem to be the entry level rods that use Toray graphite, making them both amazing light and amazing fast. They put the rod blank first. They make up for it in the cost by using Alps components instead of Fuji. They also have one of the best warranties out there - if you break it fishing, they replace it.

actually, the crazy part would be using more than 3-4 lbs of drag any more unless you're offshore are just numbers on paper

Here's your link https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/page/228

p/n 5802 I use the soft sharp end of a plastic toothpick, "Doctor's BrushPicks" You can push it behind the o-ring, it will curl and lift it. I also carry one in my spare reel box in case I need it for picking a braid backlash (never needed, knock on wood)

Lew's quit selling parts in early '21 (actually, they used to give them away last time I needed some - a service model they learned from Zebco). They quit fielding phone calls, and their service center has suffered from overload with the post-'20 outdoor recreation boom and supply constraints. Though supply seems to be catching up this year, you gotta wonder if things will ever return to where they were before (unlikely). Still would be worth a phone call to see how they respond.

Here's a thread for you to check out. With my daughters, I've creek-fished a slip bobber on the stubcaster and Seminole in the photo above. Skilkast is a particularly nice Marhoff copy and I tinker with one (totally un-photogenic, here on Heddon Pal glass rod), but if I'm going to fish with one, it's the benchmade NLW reels of the ninteen teens and '20s. My ORCA friend Bill Muth fishes Marhoff and Skilkast on TrueTemper steel rods.

@Big-Bass We need a photo of your reel collection display. e,g. here's a shelf of mine - nothing Abu here, but 3 early LW reels that weren't Marhoff patent. At one time I did own a Thommen Record, which was bought by Abu, and became the Cardinal - but had to focus, and it was easy to sell.

That reel isn't made by Abu Garcia, but by Daysprout, who makes aftermarket parts for Cardinal. That's a good price, though, the list price was $600.

Just measured the handle from my JDM Zillion SV TW 1000XH 90 mm handle, 35 mm knobs I always tune handle length, but you can use any knobs you want (this is Avail) I have the original handle stashed in the box. If you buy a lower-geared reel with a shorter handle, the 90 mm from my reel is available.

The answer is everything I intended for bass fishing and had the chance to fish. We're in a terrible drought this year, and can't get a kayak to most of the water where I want to fish this combo. I'm pretty antsy - we'll see what we get in the fall. But I've more than made up for it with all the fly rods I've taken to hill country river crossings since I could first drive to Pancranz crossing.

What's mostly gained in newer reels is lighter, lower-inertia spools and better bearings, which increase cast distance by needing less brake for the same result. Keep in mind, longer casting should also be viewed as lower-effort casting, since that means greater control. Also, newer brake systems designed for wider lure ranges, making them friendlier to those beginning with B/C who may not have the best casting habits. Many of the new improvements are aimed at manufacturing, keeping cost down while maintaining quality. There are several reasons quality aluminum gears cost less than brass - and they can be done right. The P2 pinion solves a problem with those who turn the crank with the spool removed, preventing a possible galling spur on the pinion gear.

@Cbump Neither of my SD have P2 pinion. Essentially, it keeps the pinion aligned with the spool removed. The older reels have a 3rd (pinion) bearing in the knob cap for pinion cranking alignment with the reel fully assembled. If you don't futz with the crank with the spool removed, no worries. This is the P2 pinion in the Team Pro SP - it's a bushing, somewhere discussed on an earlier takedown thread on the forum.

Flippin switch is for fishing heavy cover in close. When it's On, any time you're on the thumb bar, you're in freespool, and any time you release the thumb bar, the drive is already engaged, so you don't have to thumb the spool and turn the crank to click-engage the drive mechanism. Essentially, the thumb bar moves the pinion gear directly without locking it disengaged. It's good for vertical jigging, also. The whole idea is quicker hook sets on quick strikes. Just like the name, it's intended for repeated short presentation and expecting a strike on the splash or fall. You wouldn't want it engaged on a long cast - you'd tend to break off lures.

From that list, Super Duty casts light weights best. I sold my Tournament Pro and bought another SD, because the TP couldn't keep up (not even close) @Chumps1 since you modified you list, the Tatula will cover the wide weight range best.

You have a great excuse to buy the small Avet or Seigler lever drag. They're a lot of fun - the entire mechanism is an A/R crank and a wide-ranging drag (zero to 35 lbs) This is the SGN - you can also use the lever for a casting brake. Somewhere on this video, my friend Glenn will be casting topwaters on his LGN yes, offshore kayak is manly sport

actually, all the JDM Shimano 2000, and one of the 2500 reels are the small frame reel. Again, it's confused by the export markets, because the USM 1000 reels are JDM 2000 reels. You may be able to make out the slight difference in spool diameter here, but that's Vanquish C2000S with an F6 mono spool on the left, and Stradic JDM C1000S on the right. The spool diameters are 43 mm (2000) and 40 mm (1000). The 2500 spools are 47 mm diameter, whether they're shorter stroke for small frame (S-27) or longer stroke for medium frame (S-20) Also worth noting, the small frame Shimano has the same over-qualified Stella A/R roller bearing clutch that's in the large frame reels; same BB line roller, fine-tooth gears with increased diameter compared to previous models, stiffened spindles, worm drive. It's shorter pitch to match the size and keep it light, but everything is just as tough as the large frame reel. If you really need to tackle the drag, that's do-able, too - both reels above have MTCW TD drag knobs, which are made only for small-frame reels.

Can't help you with that one, but my cordless Rapala is king (price has gone up 30% since I bought mine) - charge lasts forever (literally for months of neglect), and it glides through redfish ribs. Also great warranty service. @AmmoGuy it's this one https://www.tackledirect.com/rapala-lithium-ion-cordless-fillet-knife-combo.html#reviews I went for big, needed the longest blades. Since you can likely get by with shorter blades, the motor and lithium battery are probably the same, and that will bring the price down a bit.

There's a big Stradic stock currently at Asian Portal, and cost is around $165. https://fishing.asian-portal.shop/category/select/pid/300224 Throw in a megabass lure or two to get free FedEx shipping. @throttleplate - it's definitely aluminum, a guess, it's cast, which is a lot cheaper, dirtier, and more susceptible to cracking than a forged part (Shimano)

The fracture looks like it had already cracked through halfway - you just finished it off.

Let's leave it at I've contributed to two of your threads, and your repeated quotes embody everything that's ungracious about the internet.

@Bass_Fishing_SoCal At least part of the purpose for Alcedo Micron was to feel under-gunned with a flimsy, short, para-taper UL rod on small trout and panfish. The closest reel to it that's made today is Tica Cetus, though generations improved. People today will still choose short para-taper stream rods, but the flimsy is gone. Thanks fo Japanese shore fishermen, the more typical finesse rod today is a longer progressive taper, which have real power as you move down the rod, also why they have much wider lure weight range, and can still protect 2-lb mono. A dozen years ago, matched our first salt finesse rods with Cetus and 4-lb Kamikaze salt copolymer from Oz - still the best UL mono line I've ever used. Didn't take long to discover this tackle was anything but flimsy, and difficult to out-gun. Certainly the reels we're discussing here, Shimano C2000S, are next to impossible to out-gun.

In the case of MP SpeedWax, the paraffin base mostly just gives it a tenacious carrier. What gives it lube properties are "teflon" compounds and moly-disulfide. I've been using the stuff 8 years on 5 bicycles - you can rub your fingers on my chains after 1000 mi and not get your fingers dirty. Oh, and being banned from BikeForums should be considered a badge of honor - the worst trolls there are the moderators. Reel manufacturers are quietly sneaking ahead of you, choosing materials and surface treatments to mitigate the need for frequent maintenance. LW is a perfect example - few things are slicker and more wear resistant than a zirconia pawl. If you check out the opposite ends of this Lew's spool spindle - that ain't bare stainless steel, but clearly has some kind of surface coating/treatment - very likely an FEP-based hard plastic (ain't nose grease, either).

The 1000 reel offered to him is equivalent to a JDM C2000S. Shimano is not going to offer a different spool that doesn't exist in their JDM line, with the exception of the USM 500 reel, which is also in his market (somewhere he hasn't mentioned). This should be all settled based on the proper capacity for the PE#0.6 braid. This is the smallest Vanford offered in Japan domestic market. Here's my JDM C2000S Vanquish. The 1000 Vanford he's offered is the economy version of this Japan benchmade reel, which is the single-best finesse spinning reel ever made. I fish this reel exclusively in salt, and it's landed doubles with seatrout, snook and redfish. Do you think it's an accident the Japanese keep all the really good low geared reels at home and send all the high-geared reels to the USA (rhetorical). With high-geared reels, you Need a long handle. With low-geared reels, you need a short handle. When you tune the handle length with the gearing, the gearing difference isn't really significant. It's easier to turn a short handle fast, and the low gears deliver more torque to turn against pull. The medium-body reel is do-able with an extra 80-m of heavier braid backing, but the medium body reel is one ounce heavier. I would call this the wrong reel all around, especially when the right reel for the rod is right in front of you. Either 2500 would be trading finesse feel for a carbontex drag washer. Finesse feel should be the reason for wanting Vanford over Stradic; otherwise, the Stradic forged alloy frame is a better choice. 10 g to 40 g isn't an ML rod, it's a Heavy rod. (3/8 to 1-1/2 oz), or at the very least an MH Trying to fit one reel to both rods would be the wrong reel for both rods.

It would not be a choice reel for casting 10 to 40 g (Perfect for 2 to 7 or 20) - 10-40 g is exactly where my 3000MHG fits. You won't find one reel that matches both rods. If you want something built to last with good line management and cost-effective, put a Tica 2500 or 3000 on the big rod. It won't be Shimano slick, but I fished a little Cetus in salt XUL for 8 years before my Shimano upgrade. I loan these reels to my friends. @Farooq23 3rd choice. Buy a spare spool for a C2500SHG (Not 2500S or 2500SHG) and use it for PE#1 braid on the same small reel body and big rod. You'll be limited to 2 kg drag, but most will never need that much. Note the pitch (line height) difference between the small body spool and medium body spool. Capacity is the same, 120 m PE#1. Your 1000, btw, is the C2000S, capacity is 150 m PE#0.6

can't go wrong with the 1000F and braid. @Farooq23 This Means Something. You don't want the medium-body reel, and you don't want the increased capacity of either 2500. I hope this thing is on. this is PE #0.6, and backed halfway with slightly heavier braid. It's a workhorse reel for me - 1.5 kg drag is no problem. If you need to stack lines, here's the line stacking calculator