bulldog1935

@redmeansdistortion yeah, thumb-stop is kind of optional on 1500C - it kind of plays out right where you want to fish 3 g, 5 g, 7g ... It will also zing 3.5 g spoons a Long Way - the width of any TX hill country river, anyway.

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In addition to 14-hr +/- time difference, Asian Portal has to forward e-mails to a contract interpreter. Patience.

The X-braids use finer fibers and a core strand that makes up 80% of the line strength, the outer braid fibers are for abrasion resistance. The whole thing is fused when the specialty FEP (teflon) coatings are applied. The strength of X-braids are over twice the strength of the same diameter Sufix 832, which is no slouch on its own. YGK Bornrush is my favorite on spinning tackle, and Duel X-wire is my favorite on baitcaster - the main difference is the coating - a softer rubbery coating on the Bornrush, harder on the X-wire. both of these are PE#1.2, 27-lb. The Shimano spool size is C3000MHG (med frame, shallow spool). That's also a shallow Ray's Studio SV spool on the Zillion. G-soul is a little different, it includes fluorocarbon fibers to make it sink, and is probably a better choice in larger sizes. The fine braids sink because they're so small. If you buy an X-braid, think diameter, Not test.

You reached entry level with the new reel - not yet with the rod. You did get a good rod recommendation first time around. What he was asking for was any other rod than ugly stik

Both good suggestions - I'm out of likes today or I'd like @PhishLI and @T-Billy posts just above. I'll get back to it later...

Recently posted this photo on another thread - improved Allbright knot next to the smallest size K-frame guide on a 13Fishing casting rod - there are 2 smaller sizes microguides on the rod, which will pass the knot, but I still use a 2' leader, so I don't have to pass the knot. Some other rods with larger guides, and I use longer leaders, out to 10' on surf rods. I've been rolling these knots for 45 years of fly fishing, so they're second nature to me. I always wet the knot with a drop of pink-label Zap CA+ and shake off the excess, then spray it with the instant cure. I tie a perfection loop at the business end of the leader, and loop-on paper clip, micro-swivel, bite trace, or a complex rig. PE#1.2 X-braid (27-lb); 14-lb hard fluoro leader. here's the post that may help you analyze the cause of your backlash.

@Creek Chub 1 The problem with USM reels is they tend to all be delivered with deep spool and fast retrieve. That said, Shimano's line management is better than even Daiwa. If you shop JDM, both C2000S and C2000SHG sizes have a better spool depth. The only perfect spools Shimano offers for that small are the C1000SSS and C2000SSS on spendy Vanquish. You can also buy the Vanquish spool separately, and either one will work perfectly on 2000 size Vanford. Have a mono or bigger braid spool, and a tiny braid spool. Since I'm targeting big fish on light, even XUL tackle, I always have a loaded spare spool for whatever size reel I'm packing. I better add this was a legal, overnight limit for three - 16" to 25" - they happen to be all male schoolies.

In Japan braid size. 0.10 mm diameter is equivalent to PE#0.4 That's the smallest I fish, and I fish it on a 500 size spinning reel in wide open navigation channels, and then I use it with 9-lb hard fluoro abrasion leader. On 1000 and 2000 spinning reels, I've fished many miles on 6-lb Sufix 832, and can recommend it for its advanced coating and good manners. Here's the line calculator for stacking lines. First thing to figure out is whether your reel can manage something that small. Deep spool spinning reels will hourglass if you stack lines too far and finish too small. That promotes "wind knots" when casting. If you're talking about a baitcaster, only a few BFS reels have the LW pitch to handle line that small without line dig. It ought to cast like crazy, but there are a lot of line choices between 15 and 5 lb. It will also get down in a hurry because it's so thin. @A-Jay Ott magnifier and lamp for those little Allbright knots.

BTW, I was wrong - there was a '16 ZPI Metanium Note in the ebay link that it was marked ZPI Racing. I suspect the ZPI marking on the reel you showed is original, and the Hedgehog Studio was added - these come with every Hedgehog order. Every now and then, you may have a reel that looks right with the Hedgehog sticker added, especially if you modified it using parts you ordered there - nothing ZPI about this Ambassadeur, except that it borrowed the handle that came on my Alcance.

@redmeansdistortion looking forward to your fishing report. In the meantime, I assume you cast to set up the Avail internal mag. How many magnets, and how light will it throw? Thanks

The list of suppliers for Daiwa and Shimano is endless, and includes Doyo for Both. Here's Daiwa Noteworthy, some of Daiwa's reels are built by Tica. Back to my first post, brand loyalty can be based on familiarity of function, but shouldn't be based on delusion. What Lew did was separate the LW from Freespool, and made the first reel that cast like the NLW reels of the ninteen teens and '20s since the 1918 Douglas patent, which Pflueger abandoned in 1928. First built by Shimano, who copied Lew's design and ended their business relationship.

ZPI was in the custom aftermarket parts business (a sideline of motorcycle racing parts business - MTCW also, motorcycle and spinning reel parts - Livre, motorcycle parts and titanium reel handles). ZPI offered bench-raced versions of Aldebaran and Tatula. These included machined magnesium spools with titanium spindle, tuned brake cams to match the lighter spools and their hot magnets, along with their trim parts. I believe the last ZPI custom Aldebaran was 2012 model, and the Tatula followed. Now ZPI only makes these parts for their own Doyo reel, Alcance. I was lucky enough to find their star drag made for Zillion in blue to match my Ray's Studio spool (there's still ONE in stock at Carolina Fishing) Made my Zillion into a slicker-than KTF Custom (I'm using KTF spool bearings)

What you can't see in reels, especially reels from opposite price ends, is that manufacturing technology and technician skill are something you pay for. I would say older reels were more technician skill, while newer reels are more manufacturing technology. Aluminum gears were unheard of for a reason when anodizing was only a few atom layers deep. It costs more to broach stainless gears, and brass gears than aluminum. Those newer fine-toothed gears, btw, share the contact load over a larger surface area with improved alignment, so they're probably going to last longer. CAD design and CAM manufacturing are also newer and get better. If you look at Shimano's current worm-drive spinning reels, they've improved gears, spindles, pitch (equals cast distance), A/R roller bearing design - they're all the same design from Stradic to Stella, with cost cut in material choices and labor quality.

People who read the word Distance as fishing 50 yds out are seeing the right word, but reading the wrong one. It should be like reading the word Fast about a kayak. Sometimes you need the absolute cast range or boat speed, but most often about a kayak, you should read the word Fast as Efficient - you can put in a 10-mi day. No one is ever going to say my tackle casts too far - they may say it doesn't cast far enough. What you gain with the ability to cast greater distance is Less Effort to cast, and that means greater control, accuracy, and reliability. The trend in baitcast reels is lower-mass, lower-inertia spools, which spin faster, thereby cast farther, and respond better to lower brake settings. We see the trend in Okuma Hakai, and Mg-spool reels such as Shimano and ZPI Alcance (Doyo). I tried Lou's SP for ML niche, and after setting it up, discovered that it couldn't match the 1/8 oz distance of Super Duty, no matter how it was set up. It's positive to see Lew's moving in this direction. They sell a solid reel that's built to keep fishing. Jury will be out on the new brake, how it affects spool mass, and how it handles wide lure weight ranges. Sorry to hear Tackle Advisor's YouTube channel is inactive. He's the only guy who rates reels from the inside out, rather than how they look in stealth grey videos.

Nada. It's fair to go with what you know, especially what you know how to set up that gives you good results. But if somebody out there does it better, especially for a niche target, do not pass go.

This is a higher grade spinning rod than the equivalent casting rod, both rated the same, both the same length. Both are set up for light braid and have microguides on the tip sections. By definition, the casting rod has more guides, to distribute the torsion under load from guide-on-top configuration, so I don't thinks guides are specifically related. This is the best spinning rod I've ever cast, and none of this is aimed at the OP's question, but @coak's question and @Blaine Donders reply. Again, none of this tackle is a slouch, the YB TZ Nano 83 spinner is the next grade up from the BC-III 82B casting rod. Both rods weigh in at 73 g. The spinning reel is Vanquish C2000S Yes, the casting reel is a Steez w/ Roro-X spool and KTF spool bearings. The BFS always has a distance edge over the spinning tackle, especially casting small plugs. I much prefer the spinning set up for complex rigs (e.g., 2" swim shad tandem), and its distance ability has caught many fish I couldn't otherwise reach. Cast distance is more closely rated to lure/line speed than anything else - distance goes up with the square of release velocity (a little bit makes a big difference). So I'm going to say the cast distance edge results from the BFS casting reel delivering higher line speed than the spinning reel. Getting into the grass across the tide pass makes all the difference taking fish. It doubles your chance, because fish are feeding on both far and near slopes. Reading the word Distance should be like reading the word Fast about a kayak. Sometimes you need the absolute range or speed, but most often about a kayak, you should read the word Fast as Efficient - you can put in a 10-mi day. No one is ever going to say my tackle casts too far - they may say it doesn't cast far enough. What you gain with the ability to cast greater distance is less effort to cast, and that means greater control, accuracy, and reliability.

I was throwing weightless rigs on Ambassadeur 6000 (and could double the distance of two separate guides with their spinning rigs) in the early 80s, but everything depends on what you're trying to get done, and how. (imitating winter glass minnows with 2.8 g plug - to 130' - he's hopping off the table and went right back in the channel - targeting seatrout) I sold my Lew's SP because it wouldn't cast 1/8 oz with Super Duty G, discovered on the water, and proved in specific casting trials. If distance isn't your goal, that's a different target. The thing about distance, if you have it, you don't have to cast as hard and are naturally more accurate and reliable. Every statement you can make about why you prefer baitcasters in heavy tackle still applies when you're talking about BFS with lighter tackle.

@Sbpk There are many people on this forum who fish down to 1/16 on BFS, and many good casting rods made to do the job. The important thing is setting up the reel properly. My finesse spinning tackle is only fished in the dark, though I fish my BFS in the dark, as well. Noteworthy, when set up properly, BFS will out-distance comparable spinning tackle.

That's kind of where rod rating is all over the place. I have a rod marked ML that's really MM, MM rod that's a true BFS with backbone for wide lure range and big fish short marked ML that's a stream UL. (I even have one salt rod marked ML that's MH with a really wide lure range) @VanIsleBassSX the rods you're listing should be no problem on smallie shoulders in river current. The right ML will enhance your fishing by adding feel through the rod, and light-in-hand is always fun to fish.

Hedgehog sells KDW titanium handle nuts, which are here to stay. the Daiwa/Abu/Lew's thread is 8 mm, and the driver size is 10 mm Note thread pitch is reversed for RH/LH. The stock Zillion handle nut is anodized aluminum, and Lew's are plastic. Send me a pm if you want one I removed (RH). Have more than a half-dozen M8 RH handle nuts in reel boxes around here.

When you get below PE#0.8 (0.15 mm diameter), standard LW pitch is too low to limit line dig. Reels like Zillion Silver Wolf have faster pitch in the LW, that lays the line wider on the spool, and can fish down to PE#0.4 (0.10 mm). This is spooling-up a shallow Roro-X spool with PE#0.8 on my Steez. In comparison, 6-lb fluoro is about 0.19 mm diameter.

@Linewinder Something like Phil Tenacious will stay on the gears a long time. Lower viscosity reel oil will need more frequent application. If you chase my old reference, Meek, Talbot and Jack Welch Heddon benchmade reels all had ports to oil both spool bushings and main gear for daily use. You can also see the main gear oil port on the Meek #30 LW in my earlier post. It's also the only Marhoff-copy LW that will cast distance with the earlier NLW reels.

No, yield and stiffness are two different properties. Yield is a strength measurement and denotes Permanent change in shape. @MickD, the surfaces have a stiffness effect. As the wall approaches minimum, see Thin Wall Hoop in the formulas I posted. Thin Wall Hoop has twice the geometric stiffness factor of the solid - intermediate wall thickness fits progressively in between - the closer to solid, the less stiff, the closer to thin wall hoop, the greater the stiffness. . They do not represent strength, but the geometric effect on stiffness. If you can't see the math of zero mass in the equation, further discussion is without purpose. When the rod designer gives up geometric stiffness by increasing wall thickness, it has to be made up in other ways, such as increasing specific modulus. Nor are we discussing rotating steel shafts here. The math of bulk rod modulus (=resistance to bending, or stiffness), the change of which defines the taper along the rod length, isn't guessing, it's known. Anyone who can't see the thickness is the difference in radius a and b is really lost. Speaking of permanent, this is where I bow out, because everything that needs to be discussed here has been discussed. The next thing that will happen is more pointless memes. Since we're talking about fishing rods here, I'll add this. In practice, most rods with greater thickness get there using more resin, not more high-grade graphite. Anyone who has messed with a solid-tip rod should immediately recognize the bulk modulus difference from a tubular rod. Anyone who has ever handled Airex, Shakespeare and Fisher fiberglass rods will also understand this completely. They all use the same modulus fiberglass. Airex is solid with a lot of resin, and totally flimsy. Thick-wall Shakespeare is heavy as the dickens and feels totally without backbone. Thin-wall Fisher is light in hand, fast and crisp. The trick is building the rod strong enough to get away with the thin wall. A lot of words have been used on this thread, most of which don't apply to the subject matter.

The math doesn't work that way. Thicker wall reduces stiffness (a is smaller below). Thinner wall Always increases geometric stiffness, but the wall has to be thick enough not to collapse or break under load. Smaller diameter blanks get equivalent stiffness and strength from Specific Modulus increase, which allows them to work with lower geometric MOI (and lighter weight).