bulldog1935

and they also had friction drags such as Williams and Pflueger Cub, but no anti-reverse, and you had to hold the handle still to use them. and imitating squid with a jig is still the bait

almost never more than 5 lbs - offshore, I only need 7 lbs. If I push the black button, I can get a little more. The reel is capable to 35 lbs, but one-fourth of the 30-lb test line is 7 lbs. You should always set at one-fourth of your weakest link, line, leader, or rod max line rating.

if you don't mind doing the math conversion, this one is 11 lbs https://www.amazon.com/Ajax-Scientific-ME505-5000-Plastic-Capacity/dp/B00EPQGXUQ/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=Ajax+Scientific&qid=1662513165&sr=8-18 If you search, the same vendor offers more accurate in the same size with 6.6 lbs. Here, the conversion, lbs to g https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=lbs+to+g This old 8-lb Salton spring balance has me covered - never need more than 7 lbs

BFE has Nikko Okiami in stock https://baitfinesseempire.com/product/nikko-okiami-shrimp-m/ orange glitter - pretty shrimpy color

a couple more shrimp finesse lures Jungle Gym Yuri - stick bait with a kick Duo Ebikko on bottom is a glow lure for dock fishing. There are always little crabs and shrimp swimming around the lights. Here's how I rig a Nikko Okiami to finesse fish below a small clicking cigar cork. Done the same thing for decades with 1/4 oz Stazo jigheads and Hogys. On the snap, it doubles over like a tail-kicking shrimp, and settles down head-first like a shrimp swimming with its legs back into the grass. This fishes really well on spinning tackle. The Nikko lures are made from krill, so the taste is built in.

That's on a size 6 2x-long Mustad stainless - you could go to size 4. Shrimpy thread Tail (antennae) is a mix of krystal flash and bucktail Bead chain pair outside the hook bend Palmered rooster hackle to keep everything open A pair of pheasant crest feathers on one side (Ally's puts them on both sides) Pheasant rump soft hackle collar - nothing looks more like shell in the water, and it's loaded with iridescent red, blue and green. Looks totally strange and totally behaves like an evading shrimp with a line strip. It works for a crab, as well, and is generic crustacean food-thingy on the flats.

The fly I added, I derived from Ally's shrimp, which is a west-coast chrome salmon lure. Second cast of the morning thrown into jumping shrimp. First cast was a bigger spec that tore the hook out on her second run.

That is MagBite Mimiq, it's a shrimp and I used the Vanfook single-loop hooks tied with red PE braid, because the attractor adds to the evading shrimp lure action - tail and antennae. I am dying to wade a salt lake and sight-fish redfish with it. Here's the equivalent lure I would use on a fly rod. We have a dozen kayakers in a redfish rodeo late next month, and the lake just above will be on the venue.

@redmeansdistortion When I did the same thing, Jun or Kayo (son) told me they weren't set up to add, but make a note in your second order, and they'll refund shipping. Since I'm showing lures, Jackson Bottom Magic is a mudball machine. Vanfook sells VANZ that's a pre-tied woolly booger, here on Mukai Max spinner it's an inline spinner you can bottom-bounce because the hook rides up.

Smith split ring tweezers on top that work everything down to 0, Jeweler's split ring pliers down to 2, and TTF sprit ring pliers limited to 4. Lures 4" to 35 mm And yes, I have an Ott magnifier and lamp... @redmeansdistortion if you throw any finesse spoons, Vanfook Twin Dancer hooks are a game-changer that also improves the spoon action. My last river spotted bass trip. the "clear chartreuse" Rodio Craft spoon was the day's lure.

They knew that in the '30s, when the only drag was a leather thumb pad. (offshore squidding reel, squid is the bait) The braided silk and linen lines then would also pick up sand and become a saw, which was why they used agate guides.

Since we switched to single plug hooks, the very best I've used is Vanfook ME-41MB, recently replaced by MEB-41F (same-same) BaitFinesseEmpire stocks these. The shank is so short for the gap, it lets you go up a hook size on tiny plugs. The 45-mm Smith Gunship (pink) has #3. Even the 36-mm Gunship will fish #6. Last winter, landed a couple of 18" snook on 38-mm Ryuki-S with Cultiva #8 single plug hooks. I've gone to Vanfook #6 on those, too. Here on the Cultiva hooks, you can see the difference in shank length. I'll also add tiny plug hooks foul on the line 3/4 casts on spinning finesse, but almost never foul on BFS.

Don't need it. It's simply blue loctite already in the threads from the factory. The trick is tighten it a little before you try to loosen it. It's very important to have screwdrivers that fit well, though. Wiha is a good choice for a mini screwdriver set. or for a single, #1 Phillips or JS-S, 4 mm. BTW, Daiwa uses some 1.5-mm hex socket heads in their handle screws. Only the Daiwa tool will work for them - without stripping the hex. https://japantackle.com/tools-and-others/tools/tog0000048.html

We've discussed this before on the forum, the risk might be over-rated, and probably doesn't apply to a beefier spool like Avail or @FishTank's Silver Wolf. They still have the center support spokes and full-ring side flanges that give support. Plus the spool tube itself is without cut-outs and adds support. That said, I've seen heat-exchanger tubes that flattened to ribbon from low internal pressure instability, with cooling water surrounding the outside flashing to steam and creating steam pressure that crushed them.

no, it's actually the opposite. Mono/fluoro stretches, and if it's loaded onto the spool under tension, it can relax and crush the spool. Since braid doesn't stretch, that can't happen. When I found the same question on a thread by @desmobob since we both fly fish, I was able to use the example of fly reels loaded with mono, which can blow the side flanges out of fly reel spools when the mono stretch relaxes. We can't link to the Express website on BR, but if you check AMO spools they specifically warn against mono, and recommend braid. Come to think of it, I guess there's nothing against a screen capture: This is PE#0.8 being spooled on a Roro-X spool, which I've fished 18 months now, landed specs, redfish and snook.

@Cbump that's how we used to kill A/R dogs on Lew's BB-1. I'll rather kill an A/R dog than a pinion gear.

A spool in freespool is not engaged to anything, because the pinion gear is disengaged from the spool by the clutch lifting the gear from the spool pins and locking - that's what makes it freespool. Turning the crank engages the spool to the drive by releasing the clutch, allowing springs to push the pinion gear back into the spool pins. You can hurt the pinion gear if this doesn't re-engage fully, or if you try to engage it against a moving spool.

It's more like General Gas Law, PV=nRT The volume is fixed and constrained gas expansion with increasing temperature rapidly increases pressure (much greater than thermal expansion of solids). Note the change in pressure with temperature is a straight line. BTW, plastic does the opposite of thermal expansion. Increasing temperature causes the polymer chains to coil up and shorten (this is what makes multi-viscosity oil work). You always notice with your kayak rigging that the dyneema lines are shorter in the summer and longer in the winter - and why you need a bungee in your rigging. you really see the length change in deployent lines

You can upgrade shipping on most Amazon.jp orders to DHL for only $5 more, and it arrives in 4 days. Amazon.jp ships from both their warehouses and individual sellers, the latter may charge much more for shipping, so look closely at your cart and shipping cost before you buy.

ok, here it is again. Analyzing when backlash is occurring is very important to solving it. Primer on 3 types of backlash and 4 types of brakes.

Certainly not to offend or detract, but... When the topic came up on TKF, everybody lauded the toughness of inflatable boats for abrasion and even oyster shell. However, the two boats that popped, both were sitting in the summer sun, rigged and waiting to be floated. The sun and heat did it before the boats could get wet.

It's almost embarrassing to talk about my frog reel, which I targeted those half-ounce-rated frogs, and can keep loading this to a full ounce. (6' rod) Will have to add my vote to the Daiwa brake guys. I built it to function like a Daiwa brake, and ended up with a reel that will cast 3 g to 30 g without backlash or even an adjustment - nothing to adjust, except internal at initial set-up. Skip-casts. It will cast the half-oz frog beyond 100', probably 3 times what I need where I use it from a kayak. Centrifugal brakes work best against start-up backlash (duplicated in Daiwa brake by Magforce/SV moving rotor), and linear mag does its best solving mid-cast wind backlash.

The whole brass gear thing is overrated. If anything needs brass gears, it's spinning reels, where the long spindle multiplies gear contract stress with added bending load. Nobody wants to add the weight to their spinning reel - everybody wants Vanford. Why add cantilevered weight that's going to twist your hand on your nice casting reel.

Air Kayaks and Advanced Elements both have a pretty good reputation - I know of people who paddle them around oyster shell. https://www.airkayaks.com/ https://www.advancedelements.com/ Nesting wood boats - check this article https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/nesting-boats/ My 10' boat is a Heritage Redfish 10 bought for my daughter when she was ready for her first kayak, 11-y-o. In fact, I used an Advanced Elements skeg to give this boat wind control in coast wind. Here, she's 15, athletic, and it was all I could do to chase her in my T160 (until I upgraded to my Werner paddle and got my edge back). here up high on Boerne City Lake - good photo of the skeg. The skeg has the effect of lengthening the keel and moving your torso - a sail - to the center of rotation for neutral handling in big wind. Most 10' boats and the inflatable kayaks I mentioned first really need a skeg. 44 llbs, it's become my river boat now that she's grown and degreed. Even for my size, 6'3", 215 lbs, it's surprisingly fast, stable, both tracks and spins very well - designed by Paul Cronyn, the naval architect, who sold Wilderness before he started this company. Keep in mind about shopping craigslist for good old boats. Polyethylene is here to stay. My kayaking buddy Josh, owner of TKF forum and the best inshore fisherman I know, used to rig kayaks at JerryB's in Corpus while attending TAMU-Corpus. He's also kept up with the industry better than anyone else I know, and maintains this spreadsheet on kayak models - it's all there.

Dead lift really has nothing to do with it. If you check YoZuri International website, they list the actual IGFA breaking load test for 6-lb YZ Hybrid at 11 lbs. Shock loading can be a factor, which multiplies stress in the line by 4x (the exact reason you set your drag at 1/4 of your weakest link). But I'm going with the abrasion guys on this one. Big fish on light tackle has always been my thing, such as 8-lb brute rainbow on 3-lb tippet - the risk here wasn't breaking tippet as much as tearing the tiny size 22 hook from his mouth - and goes back to a 6-1/2-lb largemouth I landed at 19yo on Daiwa Minicast. I'll also beat the guys to the lactic acid argument. The way you land huge fish on light tackle is don't announce yourself early. Apply enough pressure just to keep them under control and confused. Let them wind themselves a bit before you frighten them, and the final fight will be short.