bulldog1935

@FishTank - I found a useful tool for beaucoup torque that you can't get with micro-drivers. This KDW wrench - which I randomly threw into a Hedgehog order because they finally had stock - it's a 10-mm handle nut socket with an adapter that takes hex bits. The micro-bit set was $6 from Amazon - note it includes 5 different tip-shapes of PH1. On this stripped-head PH1 screw, I took a PH0 bit and jeweler's hammer, and formed a new slot. Fit the best PH1 tip, and it glided out. Of course, replaced the screw w/ new M2.5. Regards

To me, this is E-clip and this is C-clip The trick with all springy things, work in a shoe box. Still, they're small enough to disappear when you remove them even without flying away. Every few Hedgehog orders, I throw in a few of the common sizes, 2-mm to 3-mm (cheap). When I need one, I have a parts bin. E-clips are not intimidating if you have a system. A 1.5-mm slotted micro screwdriver exactly fits the exposed slot. Rotating the micro-driver eases them out. Small needle-nose pliers ease them back in.

@FishTank Si-X is almost as spendy as Shinji. But there's an Academy-like discounter in Japan, Naturum, where I can order through my broker, noppin.com, and 150m Si-X is $30. I've bought rods there, they have my favorite Tailwalk reel cover, and I can throw in profile-glow colors of Tackle House RB for night fishing (coming up next month). Broker fee weighs out when I put a cache together at noppin and ship together.

I'll chime in - especially on spinning tackle, probably can't go wrong with any YGK braid. The rule on coated braids, softer coatings cast greater distance on spinning tackle. Direct comparison of Varivas with YGK Bornrush, the YGK cast farther. Finer fibers, tighter weave and harder coatings, which are found in spendier grades, have the advantage preventing line dig on baitcasters - they also have abrasion advantages. In YGK, the hardest coating is on WPX1 - Varivas hardest coating is Si-X. (they're all made by Izanas to different specs)

@new2BC4bass our page sponsor, DVT, gets great reviews for his service. I sent Mike an FFR friend with a valuable Hardy Altex (By Appointment to HRH, etc.) - also happened to live nearby - and he was delighted with DVT reception and results.

@newapti5 - with critical measurement, might be able to source the right size A/R roller bearing. You can find the Daiwa p/n here https://www.sl-planets.co.jp/shop/product/product.aspx?product=00613841 Search on ebay - also ask Hedgehog if they can source the part, which is where the link came from.

Segue for an essay - I hope building reels counts. I made my mark restoring OP's valuable antiques. (this one happens to be mine) I have friends who religiously clean and rebuild their reels every year. Granted, they fish inshore. Could also count as fun winter tinkering. But the only thing I do that fervently is oil spool bearings (drop or 2) before and after every (salt) trip. Also a chance to inspect critical parts for salt exposure. (rust in the magnets came from a non-salt-resistant spool bearing, and both got replaced) Given the quality of modern lubes, and the quality of seals on reel drive cases - even with salt exposure - I'm inside my drives every 3 to 4 years. (a different case would be dunking a reel). Recently overhauled a 25-y-o Daiwa, and it was pristine inside. I could tell the original owner had never been inside, because he stripped the loctite'd PH1 screw head trying to get inside. Drive and LW, the old grease overflow had all turned to wax residue, so all parts were cleaned and ultrasonic'd where needed. Stiff bearings replaced, etc.

200 yds of 20-lb mono is the best capacity estimate I've seen for 6000 (not 6000C, etc). I would plug that into the Pattaya Calculator, pick the diameter you want to load, and it will give you the spool capacity.

Since you're not casting, you should fill it up. My reels below, the logic is long runs from mackerel and cobia. Also extreme eyesight of these fish. While fluoro invisibility doesn't get a lot of respect on BR, it can be all the difference for fish looking up. Nylon mono absorbs UV, making a shadow, while fluoro transmits UV. Then of course, especially in the salt, fluoro has a sink-rate advantage because it's 70% denser than the water, and 60% denser than mono. This is my trolling reel (Seigler SGN), which has 350 yds 40-lb braid, with 25 yds of 30-lb Seaguar blue on top. The lure is Halco 110, kinda famous for taking kings even sitting still. I also have a slow-jigging reel which can double up for trolling. This one I use for casting, but it's casting 1-4 oz dropped on a slow flutter around platforms. It's backed with 200 yds 30-lb braid, and 50-yds 20-lb Seaguar blue on top. Spiral-wrapped rod. Caiman 150 is Ambassadeur 6000 size.

Yes, 5000 spool and 5500 spool are close-enough to the same capacity, etc. You can calculate capacity for different thickness lines using Pattaya calculator Advanced calculator lets you calculate stacked lines of two different diameters Look at this, I found the original manual: Note the "braid" reference is silk or nylon/dacron https://www.realsreels.com/Advertizing/English/Ambassadeur6009instructionssecondpage.jpg https://www.realsreels.com/Advertizing/English/Ambassadeur6009instructions.jpg

My fourth 34-mm Daiwa was SLP Works Zillion - based on HD, and doesn't come with spool or handle, which suits me just fine. Here, it's two different reels - 1/8 oz (more and less) with Ray's SV spool, and big weights to great distance with SV Boost (and will still cast light). Both spools above are shallow for braid. Throw in fixed-inductor super-light Roro, AMO or KKR spool, and it will cast 1/16 oz into next week.

My spinning reels are Shimano and swap spools - my baitcasters are mostly (34-mm) Daiwa and swap spools. The thing about Zilllion, you can set it up to fish 2 grams to 2 ounces. I've never understood try everything and see what sticks. Doesn't what doesn't stick end up in the closet?

There are now a few offering shallow-spool fit for Lew's SLP, but you find so much variance in spindles, spool diameter and bearings between different brands and models made at Doyo, you're unlikely to find one. If you can identify a Revo model that swaps spools with your reel, that would improve your chances of finding a match on Express website. This is what sent me five years ago to my first Daiwa since 1978. I did buy a Doyo-built ZPI Alcance for the matching 7-g spool (Mg + Ti), and fish this reel in freshwater BFS, but these spools won't fit any of the Lew's I tried. I'm going to add that lower spinning mass (inertia) needs less brake, not more. Casting lighter needs more mag brake to prevent mid-cast (wind) backlash, but casting light weight on light spool, you almost never need start-up brake.

Sounds like a Don't Do That moment. Every spinning reel made has a rotation position that opening the bail will interfere with the bail trip mechanism. I always position my line roller at top dead center to prep for a cast, and never had an issue. If you want some excitement, do it wrong on your big surf reel.

Cost of real estate is a big reason Japanese don't amass the amount of tackle we do. Limited time to fish is part of the reason they like high-grade tackle. Travel by train is a big part of multipiece and telescoping rods - encroaching on others' cramped space would lose face. The links I provided describe the Gami Luxe pack sizes match standard travel articles, including briefcase. The Luxe ad blurbs also show bike-pack. An FFR friend in Japan posts really nice bike-pack photo essays.

No, I have my multipiece rod niches filled. I did look closely at most everything out there. The Gami rods looked interesting, but I'm very happy with the rods I picked up. Though I do wish Transcendence made a BF version of the Batuta spinning multipiece. Most of their bait rods are aimed at offshore and shore-casting large jigs. They did offer 4/5-pc Pulchra BF, but its pack length was just an inch too long for my bike half-frame bag.

Two models in current stock: 6' light action rod is 6 pcs, packs under 11 inches. https://fishingshop.kiwi/GAMAKATSU-LUXXE-Pack-Style-A4-B60L/ 6'10" medium action rod is 7 pieces, and packs to under 14 inches. https://fishingshop.kiwi/GAMAKATSU-LUXXE-Pack-Style-B4-B610M/ I didn't need pack length less than 18", and my favorite casting pack rods are Daiwa Black Label and Legit Design Wild Side, both 5-pc. My favorite spinning rod is Transcendence, which gives you a length choice - 6'7" boat rod in 5 pc, or 8'0" shore rod in 6 pc - you get all 7 pieces. .

The tough upgrade from Stradic and Vanford is Twin Power. (Vanford is simply the new name for Stradic CI4+). The finesse upgrade is Japan-Market-only Vanquish. Stella is top-line with magnesium body and rotor, stainless gears. My assessment is Shimano worm-drive (Stradic-up) since 2018 is the best spinning design ever for hard use and long life. When you get to low-end spinning reels, Daiwa builds tougher reels. But he already has and appreciates the best - sounds like you should be looking at upgrading his selection, which is Twin Power and Stella.

I have a data point about (JDM) R18. My Steez has been used as BFS-mod for 4+ years. I first cast the stock 1016 spool loaded with 12-lb R18, and it's been away put for back-up ever since. Last week, I used the spool to test-cast a rebuilt CV-Z coming from my bench. The 4-year-spooled R18 was new line, with virtually no memory.

this is a '50s Ambassadeur tail plate with the Record stamp. Ambassadeur began as an upgrade to their Record direct drive baitcaster (no freespool). They bought the Record trademark when they bought Thommen spinning reel, the design they evolved into Cardinal. (Fellow-Swede Thommen was the earliest A/R spinning reel - the knurled knob on the handle engages a one-way friction washer on the mainshaft).

My Silver Wolf sports a Roro X-27 spool, and it's a baddasss BFS reel throwing 2 g past 130' on PE#0.6 (smaller braid than most want to futz) My stock 1000 SV Boost PE Special spool is a back-up PE#1.2 for my inshore ML reels. What you gain with Silver Wolf (Daiwa SS Air, Alphas Air, etc) is increased level wind pitch that prevents line dig using braid smaller than PE#0.8 (slot red on Silver Wolf) @Tennessee Boy fishes Silver Wolf with the stock spool for BFS and has posted he's happy fishing braid. Here's the chart that gives PE# diameter and breaking strength: https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/japanese-line-size/ @DaveT63 Alphas 800 will do the job if you want to fish light mono. Aftermarket spools are readily available on ebay, JDM vendors, Rorolure (Hong Kong) and A/E if you want to later add a shallow PE#1 spool.

It's a bushing reel -no bearings - but they're good reels with good bushings. Many aftermarket suppliers make bearing-size bushings to turn later -C reels into your reel. Some people prefer casting heavy weights using the slower bushings in place of faster ball bearings. They used serial numbers for first production, beginning 1954-ish. They switched to lot codes in the '60s, changed the lot codes to begin with the actual year in the '70s. Note if your reel was '50s, there would be a "Record" stamp on the tail plate. If you notice, I defer to Fred who knows more than I do - he defers to Simon Shimomura, who knows more than he does.

6000 uses a different lot code - the "Earliest" lot code on Fred's list. 10 is October, 05 is actually 1965, 00 is no revisions.

Fred Ribb is the place to start - https://lurelore.com/freds/abu.html#section4 this is 4500C, '78, February, no revisions (same as previous lot - '77) show us a photo of the reel

@newapti5 When I was putting my noppin cache together, which included discount lines and my favorite Tailwalk reel cover from Naturum, Masamichi scored my part from JapanTackle. https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/daiwa/tu000071.html btw, the only difference between CV-Z 103 and 105 is the spool depth - here's the original product blurb on JT https://japantackle.com/daiwa-millionaire-cvz.html Editing in a photo, here's the rod I'll be using with CV-Z for shore fishing next month - Lami MH/MTC Rogue River Special.