bulldog1935

horse hockey, hit fish will reject color that is too obvious and unnatural. The reason for using unnatural colors is so they will cast form and be visible in turbid water and changing light conditions.

Blend colors for clear water - the color of the grass or the natural markings on the bait. Darker blend color in overcast, brighter blend colors in bright sun.

Every combo has line and leader matched to lure and niche, so rigged combos get swapped. If I break off a leader, I can swap in a spare reel/spool, which is the biggest reason I only want reels that swap spools. Especially true with a week of night fishing coming up in 2 weeks. Swapping a spool isn't bad in the dark, and where we're going, big chance of big snook running off with your terminal. Leaders will get tended in the daytime.

I became a Seaguar (and Umpqua) fluoro fan over Rio fluoro leader. Never landed over-30" Alaska rainbow - one came unhooked charging me across the width of the Kenai faster than I could reel. Another broke off on a Rio fluoro knot. Not fair working a decade on and off in Alaska and PB rainbow was in a TX tailwater. "we're gonna need a bigger net" @FishTank - forgot to mention my favorite trout fluoro for strong knots is Frog Hair, which I'm certain was the 5x tippet for the buck just above. (size 22 midge dropper) .

There are differences between offshore assembly line reels and Japan-bench-finished reels - the difference is intentional and goes beyond the labor rate. Made in Japan Sells in Japan. While the parts all come from the same manufacturing, the Shimano Malaysia worker or Daiwa Tica-Taiwan worker is getting reels out the door. What they do in Japan is sort and match parts from the bins for smoother function as they're assembling the reel - the extra time and labor quality is designed into the pricing. If you put a Stradic and Twin Power side-by-side, you'll notice the difference - and Stradic is good enough, you won't notice the difference otherwise. @softwateronly - no offense, the only Daiwa warranty return I know of was an Alphas that left out the frame-spool-ring on one side. Also, there are full-bench and bench-finished reels still made in USA (to me, this defines USDM - i.e. imported USM reels are not made domestically)

I always wonder if the technican at bench H-g commits seppuku if this reel comes back for warranty. it was jokes

Gill plates, skinny oyster shell, etc. Often casting to 8"-tall fish in 6" of water.

Since I buy X-braid, no way my leader breaking strength is higher than my braid breaking strength. However, I fish a lot of abrasive fish in abrasive conditions, and generally pick larger leader than gets discussed on BR. E.g., 19-lb breaking strength YGK V-12 fluoro leader on PE#1.5 X-braid (30-lb breaking strength) - the leader is twice the braid size on Japan silk-thread scale. Likewise in the surf, I'll match 40-lb Gold fluoro to 45-lb (PE#2) braid. Drag set is always 1/4 of weakest link, line, leader, or rod max line rating.

This thing is never on. I'm going to restore IQ to this thread. Rod Bond is epoxy - it's the right epoxy with the right properties for OP's repair. It's flexible, it's UV-resistant, it will last indefinitely, never become brittle and never crack. Likewise, JBWeld is epoxy, so hard, you can grind, drill, and tap it. It would be the wrong epoxy for OP's repair.

um, you know google can translate those photos online, and you can download the translated image.

aw, come on, all fishermen love trucks

No problem. I've fished a Super Duty G in salt for 7 years. Keep up with your spool bearings - if they show anything that looks like rust, replace them. Salt rust is 100 times more corrosive than salt.

Not yet, but following new Steez, it will lose user-set Zero Adjust. Daiwa made this choice so we can't use aftermarket spools - same with SS Air. They won't even sell a spare spool for new Steez or SS Air - you have to buy another reel.

pfun pfoto from my CV-Z In production, they used the same 2.1-mm pilot drill for the cover plate taps to add two drain holes in the frame. So I tapped one with M2.5 Bolt Depot piecemeal order arrived yesterday - final rigging on my hook keeper. Low-profile joint, with 1-mm M2.5 nylon washer against frame, G-Nius BHK Type R keeper, external lock washer, and high-torque button socket head. M2.5 is pretty standard on all B/C cover screws, and all my reels have a G-Nius The thing about the CV-Z, unlike all these reels, there are no exposed screws anywhere, so had to get creative to be able to add this part. TackleWarehouse sells the hook keeper, though a few in current stock.

I would get a '21 Zillion or '22 HD while you still can - prices are low with new Zillion introduction. https://www.amazon.com/Daiwa-Gillion-1000H-Right-Handle/dp/B08NP3F5MV/ref=sr_1_3 note, SLPW-Z based on HD comes without spool and handle https://www.amazon.com/Daiwa-Slp-Works-ZILLION-1000H/dp/B0BZC11WKH/ref=sr_1_1_pp https://www.amazon.com/Daiwa-Baitcasting-Reel-Gillion-1000XHL/dp/B09LQYDJW7/ref=sr_1_4

@TnRiver46 those old window lifts were manual crank - @Bigbox99 4.6-l V-8 - new truck has power window lifts, though it's already had a window lift warranty repair. The price you pay with Ford - I'll take it for the rest I get. new 3.3-l base V-6 w/ 10-sp auto (same power and torque as the older 4.6-l V-8) - people don't believe when I tell them this variable-cam, dual-injection V-6 reminds me so much of my '84 hemi V-6 Alfa, but it does... I get 22 mpg and 750-mi range in normal driving (long wait to watch for cheap gas), and it handled a coast run hauling my buddy's 7000-lb travel trailer. To get everything I wanted, split bench for my gibbon-like limbs, dry storage + jump seats, and bed long enough to legally haul my kayaks on bed extender, I had to buy a fleet truck, but I love the rubber floors. Another reason to get the normally aspirated engine was not to have a turbo repair. Hate being a prophet - right after I bought my truck, my buddy Josh with '15 2.7-l eco-boost twin turbo - at 180k, his block and turbos were spraying oil - $15k repair, and of course, he bought a new vehicle instead.

@GRiver I never use simple green for anything, especially not brass or aluminum. TX PE No. 75665. I have an ultrasonic cleaner, and I clean parts in glass beakers (watch glass on top keeps the smells down). Water in the tank, parts and sol'n in beaker - dilute vinegar (never magnesium), mild soap, denatured alcohol, mineral spirits when it's tenacious. Too bad, my $10 beaker set is no longer on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BBK51BL/?th=1 But you don't even need this much ultrasonic cleaner - basic jewelry cleaner works for parts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNRXTRYW?th=1 all ultrasonic cleaners heat because of the energy you're putting into the liquids. bearings - watch the solution change color when the ultrasonic is turned on. Check it again in a fresh sol'n. If you're using 20 ml at a time, you can cycle fresh sol'n many times. dipping a drive plate assy - what happens to everything in the stack, drag washers - no, never - the whole point to cleaning an assy is to take it apart. The parts you want to remove get cleaned. What portion of the assy you leave together, swab-clean with q-tip and alcohol. As you're taking it apart, take photos that will mean something to you later - bread crumbs.

My '94 GMC was a good truck, but I replaced Every peripheral, including the A/C after 100k - it was Dead Do Not Revive at 218k - window lifts worked. My '05 F150 made 256k without a single repair or replacing a single peripheral - ok, I had to repair a window lift - it's Ford - finally drove it the back roads slipping 3rd for $1000 trade-in. Ford dealer waved, "See you again in 18 years."

I have friends who are Really well off, and frugal to a fault (scrimping for annual trip to France). They love borrowing my tackle fwiw, another friend spent his engineering career living on a sailboat in Bahamas and Aruba. He retired, sailed to Corpus, sold the boat, and runs a trailer park in fishing mecca Estes. Impossible to impress with gear, and that's ok, too. Don't let it skin your teeth... and yes, "I can catch more..." is tell-tale jealousy.

@newapti5 - that's pretty trick... I like Jun Sonada's description that replacing a Boost spring or shim washer needs 5 small hands. hey, it wasn't my joke, it was Jun's

@GRiver I have one brass 6.3-geared C3 drive, and it's totally quiet. My (UK) aftermarket stainless drives are buttery quiet with ball-bearing main shafts. Pinion gears work 5.3- (or 6.3-) times harder than main gear, so that's always the first part to replace - cheap and available. It gets trickier to find gears if you have an earlier -C, -B, or -A model This '77 4500C, I had to pick my best (of 2) steel main gears, because I couldn't find a later NOS brass replacement. But I did find a NOS pinion for it. (Dad's Ol Tackle) Spool centering on the end caps can also be important, since it affects where the pinion rides on the main gear Another place to look for wear is the LW pawl. Worm gear groove should need very little grease, and then primarily at each end, where the pawl is forced to turn. One of the nicest things you can do for these reels is install Mike's Reel Repair zirconia pawl, which has a built-in oil reservoir, and the MOC is a slick bearing material. If you go to this trouble, consider a ball-bearing worm-gear upgrade kit.

This has been my experience with all spendy lubes. Using small quantities of spendy high-grade lubes, one purchase lasts indefinitely. For people like @Delaware Valley Tackle and @redmeansdistortion, who work on OP's reels as a business, the cost of small-packaged lubes doesn't make sense. I know Robert searches out high-grade lubes in larger packaging, evaluating active ingredients in the composition data sheets.

Great project. If you took any, we'd love to see photos of the inductor swap.

No weight difference between 1000 and 2000 size - only difference is 2 mm of spool diameter. JDM Stradic chart C2000SHG is the same reel as USM 1000HG C2000-F6 (small-frame Vanquish and Vanford are both 40 g lighter); 1000S

@GRiver - it looks like a good product, likely using high-grade synthetics. Don't know anything about the company The prices add up in a hurry, and about the same as my go-to's: ZPI (spool) bearing oil, MTWC gear grease - with Cal's the reliably inexpensive drag grease. I've learned to trust MTCW from the quality of their aftermarket upgrades. Japan reel racers all began as a sideline to their bread-and-butter motorcycle racing - ZPI Racing, Livre, MTCW. adding a ps - a few quotes on the product from TT forum: