bulldog1935

While this conversation always begins at visibility, that's rarely the issue. Lining a fish is touching him with the moving line (same thing would make your skin crawl, too). All waters contain natural stringy fibers. The purpose of a leader is to have some measure of shock-absorbing elasticity in your rig.

In this whole mass-produced-utensil marketplace, whatever you spend on your tackle, the tackle will always be worth less to someone else. The value of the tackle is what you can fish out of it. If you need to sell it, it will be the buyer's market. Biggest part of this, it's always being supersceded by something new, possibly better, and certainly better hyped. It's always a joy to find a rod that perfectly fills your niche, feels right, does everything you need, and costs less than you can afford to pay - watch for the close-out and get a half-price back-up. There is another side to this, tackle that if you buy well will always be worth more than you paid. But that's most always bench-made tackle that by definition isn't new tech, but hand manufacturing, tuning and finishing effort, small batch, small market, hard to come by (looking for it is like paying your dues on the water). But when you need to sell it, it will be the seller's market, because someone else has been looking just as hard as you did to find a good buy.

Improved Allbright

N + 1 marketing If they didn't tell you, you wouldn't know you needed to replace last year's OK, between the different lines, you pay for different things. Weight reduction in the rod blank - advanced MOC that gets the same strength and bulk modulus (rod taper) in a structure using less total material. The other thing you pay for is finish grade in the components and labor details.

no rubber grip, but KDW makes an easy alloy clutch bar replacement https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product/1763

It's a perfect spool for that range. In my inshore ML niche, Ray's is a better choice, and finesse shore-casting, my hottest spool now is the AMO I show above. I keep my stock Silver Wolf spool loaded w/ PE#1.2, 120 m - capacity is greater than Daiwa lists - it stays handy in a spool can for backing up my ML reels. On all my Ambassadeurs, down to 1500CI, I prefer the solid Avail spools to honeycomb.

Now you have a Black Cherry, too, Robert. btw, YGK 1st version Oddport WXP1 is closing out most places (when introduced in 2018, it was $1/yd) - 100 m now is closing out for $28 at most shops. If you can get your spool to end on an even 50-m increment, it gets the candy-cane finish. Editing in about the Silver Wolf spool (34 mm). it casts very well, reliable, but weighs 13 g. It won't quite cast 1/8 oz w/ a Ray's SV spool, and a fixed-rotor Roro or AMO spool (5 g) will cast 1/16 oz farther than Wilver Wolf spool will cast 1/8 oz.

Who needs Ito.

BFS = reel, by definition, combination of shallow lightweight spool, low-inertia spool bearings and threadline. The capacity of your deep spool is excessive for line w/ diameter equivalent to 4-lb mono (15-lb braid, etc.) One way to get around that is back your spool with 20-25 yds 20-25-lb mono, tie to your working line with a low-profile knot such as improved Allbright, and finish out the spool with your small-diameter working line. My deep-spool reels set-up this way have BFS bearings. But since aftermarket spools are made for your reel, you might be remiss not trying one. What you can gain with a $40 or $60 spool might blow you away. I pm'd you a couple of links

JapanTackle lists Daiwa choice - this is moving SV inductor - Silver Wolf Spool https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/daiwa/tug0000277.html Roro-X spool, this is fixed inductor (linear mag only) for lightest weights to greatest distance. https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/daiwa/tu002410.html Deeper Roro spool https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/daiwa/tu001753.html black in same spool https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/daiwa/tu001733.html Your reel should also take Ray's Studio SV spool for Steez/Zillion AMO (fixed inductor) spool for Steez/Zillion Ray's Studio SV and Daiwa Silver Wolf 34-mm spools: My 34-mm Daiwas, all set up for BFS

My friend Nick found a 1950 Left Hand Shakespeare Criterion to match a Payne bamboo casting rod. He's been wanting a split-cane casting rod to tinker and fish for awhile, but the left hand reel find to match for him was kind of spectacular.

Before you run off, think about gear ratio. I find 90-mm Perfect for 7.1 gearing. On 8.5 gearing, I'll go up to 100 mm. On 6.3 gearing, I'm totally happy with 82-86 mm. If you go to too long handle on a lower-geared reel, you may not be able to keep up with charging fish.

most clutches have 2 detentes - that second click in wind is fully engaged. The winding sound you're describing is the clutch bar not releasing fully, while the pinion gear is engaging. @Gomez4455 editing in a ps here. by first removing the spool, the thumb clutch button is easy to remove by a single screw reached from the front. With that out of the way, you have clean access to the clutch bar tracks - check for debris, and lube there. Also makes them easy to swap out the thumb button...

You gotta hope after 17-1/2 years, the problem has been solved. But in 2006, Eagle Claw was the correct answer.

@Tackleholic https://www.geocities.ws/fisherdude2_99/early_narmco_conolon_rods.htm The Mitchell Museum used to have the most complete Conolon rod catalog collection, but that archive has disappeared. https://www.realsreels.com/RodsGarcia.html https://www.fishingtalks.com/garcia-rod-info-1975-17016.html The Royal Javelin fly I owned for awhile had original hang-tag price of $35 in 1955, which is over $400 in today's money. (NOS rod was a cheap ebay snag) https://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2442&p=4445 https://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=72881 https://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1128

That Super Duty has their 6-pin centrifugal brake, which would be a very good choice for casting big swim baits. I fish two of the older model Super Duty G with mag brake, and it works great in 1/4- to 3/8-oz niche - I'm always amazed how far they will cast even 1/8 oz. My oldest has been fishing inshore (hard) for 7 years, and all it has needed was replacing the (cathodic-coated) magnets from salt exposure.

This one will fish 1/16 to 5/8 oz and turn any fish you tackle. https://jdmtackleheaven.com/products/abu-garcia-xrossfield-baitcasting-xrfc-662ml-bf

The main reason, also the reason for so many compact frames, they're aimed at stream trout, where upstream and across casts may require fast retrieve. Rod tip lift on these short rods also doesn't pick up a lot of line or gain a lot of lure speed. In my hill country limestone creeks, Ambassadeur 1500CI gearing is fine for me. I'm also happy with Ambassadeur gearing in my river kayak niche. In my shore casting salt finesse niche (tide passes), I prefer low-geared reel for lure presentation, also larger diameter spool for improved distance. This is 6.3-geared Steez w/ Roro-X spool, casting 2 g to 130' on 8' rod. Where I'm drift-fishing a salt kayak on windy flats with a 7' baitfinesse rod, higher 8.5-gear Silver Wolf works well for me.

I have '19 Vanquish and '19 Stradic - the differences w/ '23 are slightly longer spool pitch and the spindle to go with it. Stradic is forged aluminum body and composite rotor, built on Malaysia line. Vanquish is magnesium body, lightened composite rotor, titanium bail, more BB, and bench-built in Japan with parts matching for extra smoothness. You wouldn't notice the difference until you have them side-by-side, but then Vanquish low-inertia drive becomes apparent. The reel starts when you start, stops when you stop, and never pushes against your hand. Vanquish was designed to be the best finesse spinning reel ever, and Shimano succeeded.

That depends greatly on the line. Japan X-braid in PE#1 is the perfect diameter for most BFS applications. Most are 20- to 22-lb breaking strength. https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/japanese-line-size/ The rest of the world only talks in line diameters - pound-test doesn't even make sense in the US, where it's used exclusively.

Up front, don't fix what ain't broken - you like the visible blue line, it works for you, stick with it. As long as we're having true confessions. I am almost 100% threadline braid. I came from Stren on spinning tackle, then Big Game bulk spools. Since I'm mostly in the salt, switched to Seaguar bulk spools when they improved knot strength. I buy bulk YZH because it's inexpensive, and mostly use as disposable for initial setting of internal mag brakes on round reels. Where I go to mono, it's Maxima Ultragreen 10-lb down to 5-lb.

It has their top warranty - I would give them a call - wouldn't try to overthink it, tell them it broke when it shouldn't have. https://dobynsrods.com/warranty/

Hi @ButchA - my 1949 CAP (Carpano & Pons) wouldn't become Mitchell 304 for another 5 years. And yes, please show your 304. Here's my BR contribution to Old Stuff that @Eric 26 was fishing for

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