bulldog1935

The gear doesn't have any torque that you don't put into it. Gears have ratio = speed. They also have contact loads that result from what you put into them. The lower the speed, the more torque you can deliver through the gears. but you can accomplish the same thing with more leverage on the handle. If you hit a wall on what you're able to put through the gear, the added leverage of longer handle pitch lets you put more into the gear, increase gear contact loads, and get more out of the gear - it has the exact same result as slowing down the gear (swapping gears) without changing the handle pitch. With a longer-pitch handle, you're moving your hand farther to complete a revolution. That distance is also pi-times-diameter. When you change the handle pitch, you change the rotation itself. The other thing you increase with a longer handle is the contact stress on the gear teeth, and the gears need to be strong enough to take that.

but the gears don't move themselves - you move them with the handle. I hope this thing is on.

for the same motion of your hand, you're not moving the crank as far with a longer-pitch handle. Likewise, you can speed up a reel with a shorter double handle - it doesn't change the output of the gears, but what you put into them.

Rusty, it changes the amount of torque you put into the gear. the trick is having gears that can take the increased contact stress, but when you look at newer Shimano gear design with larger main gears and increased gear contact area, that's not too much concern. (believe me, I've brinnelled my share of gears and rotor bushings on offshore fish) My thought was exactly the same as yours, and I have two low-geared JDM reels, Stradic and Vanquish, plus the higher-geared Stradic that matches FL1000 (JDM C2000SHG). I've adjusted handle pitch on all 3 (I like counter-balanced or double handles especially on UL spinners) - the high-geared reel came out the stoutest, and mostly because of the handle pitch. It's the reel I chose to go from 6-lb braid to 14-

Glenn Madden who kayak fishes off the TX coast says, "Yip-Pah." When he took out a couple of Aussies for kings on topwater, they picked it up, too.

I started my girls on the put-and-take trout ponds when they were each about 4. Of course there wasn't always a lot of fishing, but that's the key with kids is going somewhere they don't have to fish. Turtles and crawdads found their way home to an aquarium/terrarium. Don't forget towels, blankets and change of clothes. The night before, they would sit in my lap to tie fake corn kernel flies with yellow chenille. Chum up the trout with corn, and let the girls catch trout on fly rod. Don't let the fly rod mystics fool you, most fly fishing is just fancy cane pole. I bet even Theodore Gordon dunked worms.

Mine was 7' Berkley Tri-Sport and Mitchell 300 from bass fishing to inshore and the jetties. Then Millionaire 6H on Fenglas Lunkerstik, Orvis Fullflex A, 7-1/2' Browning HiPower for inshore and surf (my first graphite)...

https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/handles-casting-reels/daiwa-abu.html all newer Shimano should be 7x4mm slot, while older Bantam matches Abu/Daiwa 8x5mm Also, if you go to the trouble for a $26 DHL Express charge, might check Jun's inventory on other items, lines, lures, etc. Keep in mind older Lew's BB-1, Abu and Daiwa should swap in - you also want to make sure you match the nut and keeper to the handle.

actually Rusty, the cranking power is simple leverage. The leverage of the longer handle gives you more cranking power even with faster gears. Noted with my 2000 spinning salt UL reels catching doubles last month, the lower-geared Vanquish with shorter handle ran into a cranking wall a couple of times, while the higher-geared Stradic pushed right through with its longer handle.

It's not only hard to pick one rod and reel, it's impossible. That's why I picked the most versatile fly rod I know. I think we should all have at least one of each, instead of just one. And think a lot of us are already well on our way.

I talk to the fish. If I'm keeping count, will say, "you're number xx"

If you find you don't like the higher speed gears, you can slow it down with tuning parts. A longer-pitch handle has the same effect as slower gears, both for slowing down retrieve, and increasing your cranking power through the faster gears. This is an 8.3-geared reel that I slowed down by increasing the handle pitch from 48 mm on the stock handle to 60 mm. It gives me both the retrieve I like, and the power to crank against slot redfish. It's a simple ratio - this makes it behave like 6.5 gearing.

I never trust spooling machines with my reels, but spool everything at home. I put the rod in a rod holder, and run the line through a phone book, sitting on top of a 5-gal bucket, and with a weight on top - I can slide the steel wedge around to dial in the amount of tension on the line. For fluoro on a spinning reel, the source spool goes on on the ground with the spool label up. For all braid and all line on a baitcaster, the source spool goes on an axle in a bench vise. In reverse without the weight, I can take the line off the reel, in complete control of the line tension, spool up the old line onto a line winder to easily dispose it, or even move it to a different reel. Here, I put the line winder in the rod holder, and I'm returning the line to the original source spool - this actually goes pretty quickly, because you can roll the original spool with both palms, and even level wind it by rolling one rim at a time.

My buddy Jimbo, who used to tournament bass fish before he became a trout wizard, keeps track of fish numbers with a pocketful of Jolly Ranchers. He eats a candy every 5 fish and counts the wrappers at the end of the day. That way, his count is only 1 to 4 since the last candy.

I fished through many favorite reels. They're just not made to last indefinitely. I haven't thrown one away, not even my '71 Mitchell 300 from high school that I fished through the gears in 4 years on fall Spanish macks at the jetties. I have a storage box with those memento reels.

I can dis-recommend a don't buy braid - KastKing - tried it because it was inexpensive - way too hard and abrasive - relegated it to deep backing. Otherwise, I routinely grab Seaguar and Sufix 832 from Amazon (Owner, Tactical Angler, lures) - especially with Prime, I think you can trust what Amazon stocks in their warehouses.

I'll provide the strangest answer to this question. 70's Vince Cumings Water Witch and 1930 click-pawl Medalist. The super-progressive glass fly rod is rated 6/7-weight, but will dry-fly fish a 3-wt, and becomes a different rod with every line weight in between. Happens to be my PB bass sight-fished on the Sabinal River. yeah, that's me with the stogie

Here's my loaner box for spin-fishing friends on the Guadalupe tailwater, with my home-made single-hook spinners. Back when my dad could don waders and join me in the river, he did very well on these. We have trophy water with single barbless hook regs, and my home-made spinners are single hook. Small jigs, cats whiskers tied on barbells for casting weight. Once they discover crayfish, our holdovers can get pretty beefy. This happens to be a PB, and was taken on a size 22 midge. The Japanese make tiny plugs and spoons just for trout fishing and long casts on UL. I bought these diminutive sinking plugs for winter seatrout, imitating glass minnows, but they would be just as effective for rainbows and browns. The plug on the far right is just for bottom bouncing. In our crowded tailwater, can always find a spot in the wide, deep, tannin-bottom pools where the water is barely moving. Here with the fly rod, I bottom-bounce big trout using a Teeny sinking line with weightless bead-chain-eye cats whiskers and whistlers. It's really a white bass technique, but all game fish will chase the mudballs bottom bouncing produces, and usually pick up the fly/lure when it's sitting still. Speaking of the effectiveness of bottom bouncing. One opportune spring white bass spawning run, fishing into a flagstone pool and standing on the pinch-point gravel bar they all had to cross to get upriver, I landed 50 white bass on consecutive casts. White bass were spawning all around me on the gravel bar. Another December day at a narrow tide pass to the Gulf, landed 40 flounder on consecutive casts (probably could have caught more, but it was a cold 15-mi boat ride back home). Of course, you pay your dues to hit these days.

the way kayaks sold in 2020, look for good craigslist buys in 2021. My very smart buddy Josh put this spreadsheet together for pretty much all the kayaks out there https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1H3POyxp2QTpH8YNZQ3OQUMrt43Oaup9hLa4CF-UUQd8/edit#gid=0 if you check the spreadsheet filter views, they include the following choices: Pedal Driven Self explanatory, these are kayaks which either come with or have the option to add a pedal drive. Lakes Length is between 11' 06" and 14' 01". Capacity is greater than 325 lbs (based on a 200 lbs paddler). It either has a rudder or has the option to add one. Coast Length is greater than or equal to 13' 00". Width is less than or equal to 30". Capacity is greater than or equal to 325 lbs (based on 200 lbs paddler). It either has a rudder or has the option to add one. Rivers - Large Kayaks for fishing the Brazos or Lower Colorado for example. Length between 11'02" and 14' 01". Width less than or equal to 38". Weight less than or equal to 105 lbs. Capacity is greater than or equal to 325 lbs (based on 200 lbs paddler). Rivers - Small Kayaks for the Upper Guadalupe, Frio, etc. Length between 10' 00" and 13' 00". Width less than or equal to 38". Kayak weight less than or equal to 90 lbs (easier for portaging). Capacity is greater than or equal to 325 lbs (based on 200 lbs paddler). Camping These are kayaks which offer higher weight capacities for carrying gear for over night camping trips. Length between 10' 06" and 14' 01". Capacity greater than or equal to 425 lbs (based on 200 lbs paddler). All Purpose These kayaks are ones which should be considered if you can only own one kayak and plan on fishing the coast, rivers, and doing overnight camping trips. Length Length between 11' 06" and 14' 01". Width less than or equal to 36". Capacity greater than or equal to 425 lbs (based on 200 lbs paddler). It either has a rudder or has the option to add one. < $1,000 Self explanatory, these are kayaks with MSRP's equal to or less than $1,000. < $750

don't do it, stick to the 1000 and 2000 size, which is the mix of Stella, Vanquish and CI4+ parts. A friend on FFR pre-ordered Vanford 500 and was disappointed with what his wait and $200+ got him. No worm drive, instead locomotive, no long stroke - the 500 drive is literally a Nasci with a part left out - missing the bottom crossbar in the oscillation yoke, which is how they reduced drive inertia in this size. (ok, it's actually the JDM '16 Soare 500 with a facelift) I would definitely buy a $40 Tica Cetus or $80 Daiwa MR750 over the Vanford 500. Also note, they don't offer the Vanford 500 size in JDM - it's only offered to the US. https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/shimano-20-vanford/ If you want to see his takedown photos and comments, they're on fiberglassflyrodders forum, the page Another Spin on Glass, topic titled Shimano Vanford 500 size. I fish a Vanquish C2000S, Stradic C1000S and Stradic C2000SHG side by side. The lightness of the Vanquish belongs on my shocking-lightweight Yamaga Blanks 83 TZ Nano rod, but 25-g heavier 8' Black Hole rockfish and either of the little Stradics makes a workhorse finesse combo. and no, the Vanford will not be able to out-cast the Stradic. '18 Stella, '19 Vanquish, '19 Stradic, '20 Twin Power and '20 Vanford in the same sizes all cast the same distance because of the common spool stroke - the spools (and most parts) interchange between all these reels.

At least Tarantino will give it a happy ending.

Wes Craven

some velvety Fujichrome Crescent Lake in Lake Clark National Forest, AK it was a good August day for silvers

If you check Hedgehog OEM spools, you should be able to match your reel to whatever depth spool you want to fish. That's another thing nice about Shimano, they have a spool number system and chart that lets you move spools around easy.

Hi Gary, Tica began offshore reels in Taiwan in the late 60s. Daiwa's history is Olympic-Seiko, making reels even before the war, copying every reel made just about anywhere, and in the 60s before the Daiwa name, they were the Daisy in Daisy-Heddon. I still recommend the Tica Libra SX1500, the right spool depth for lighter lines and long spool stroke for long casts, with the line management to handle it. The weight in that size is not an issue, and compares with Stradic FL2500. The Tica Samira worm drive and fully sealed reels beef up quite a bit, but the simpler, lighter Libra is part of why I prefer it. Except for the extreme Shimano smoothness, the simple and strong Libra design performs very well - it's still Very smooth - you notice a little inertia when you engage the selective IAR. What got me started on Tica was 12 years ago, bought the diminutive Cetus SS500 to match my first Takamiya salt XUL rod, and it fished that long in the salt, with 22" and 23" specs under its belt, until I retired it just this year for a JDM Stradic C1000S on the rod. The Cetus was my first experience with modern computer-balanced spinning reels. Before that, it was Penn 4200SS. As I mentioned in my first post, loaned the second Takamiya 7'9" UL with the Libra SX1500 to my buddy last month and he had a blast with a spec bag limit.