bulldog1935

your thumb should never quite leave the spool - you should be "reading" the spool with your thumb, but if you're set up right and casting longer than you need, your thumb will be applying brakes while your cast is dropping to help put it in the right place. You can do something similar on spinning tackle with good manual bail technique - you feather the line at the end with your finger tips.

Jim, the Lew's that has mag + centrifugal is the Inshore and Custom Inshore, with a horrendously heavy spool add-on. (maybe I'll take a photo later with the palm cap removed)

The Guadalupe coldwater tailrace is often jokingly called a Trophy Redhorse Fishery. We love catching redhorse suckers, it's a sign of truly matching the hatch - we call them Guadalupe Redfish. According to Gary Borger, the IQ of a trout is 6, and the IQ of cyprinids is 12. They don't look bad next to a 1918 Thomas Special.

Not to offend, TP (SP, CL) doesn't have a mag brake. you're adjusting the stand-off of this centrifugal brake race, which adjusts both the starting point and the force applied to the bellcrank brake pads. There are no magnets in the palm cap or spool end. I vote for engaging all the centrifugal pads (leave them in from factory) and using the dial to adjust-out initial spool overshoot, as designed. Set it high to anticipate a little jerk in your cast. You'll be dialing it down as your cast gets smoother, and dialing it back up again with lighter lures.

I have the Lew's Tourney Pro, and it has a very nice and lightweight centrifugal brake. This is a really nice centrifugal brake, and the light weight it adds to the spool is its best quality. (Same set-up in the Team Pro SP, and Custom Lite) Borrowed this graph again from Jun at Japan Tackle - It shows brake force versus spool velocity Spool tension is always a constant load on the spool - this is the brake that is costing you distance. Your best cast distance will be with spool tension set as low as you can get away with. As you get good, you will be dialing this lower and lower, and eventually may only be using it to dial-out spool end-play. The centrifugal brake does its best work preventing initial spool overshoot, and little-to-no effect on a slow-moving spool. You can get away with a higher setting on the centrifugal brake with some, but less effect on cast distance. So my recommendation is start your centrifugal brake set - not to max - but to 80 or 90%, and work first on dialing down your end tension. You use more on the centrifugal brake setting with lighter lures. After that you can work on dialing down your centrifugal brake, as your cast gets smoother. Remember that any jerk you put into a cast is only backlash. Also that the end of your cast is all thumb. Since I'm here, mag brakes have their best effect preventing mid-cast wind backlash, and my longest-casting baitcaster in coast wind is Super Duty G (not counting my Abu CT surf reels with both centrifugal and mag).

In German wines, the Riesling Kabinett is early season and is dinner wine. Spatlese and Auslese are late and later season, extra sweet and sweeter, and are desert wines. 5 years is the perfect age to drink a German wine - better then than sooner or later.

The choice white wine for smoked pork is Viognier. (vee-yon-yay - there, you can pronounce it, too) It has the body to stand up to strong-flavored meat. Best I know is Becker Vineyards in Texas, and never had a French viognier that was better. Around here it's $15/bottle. Since Riesling was mentioned, there's a little bit of Texas in every German wine. Germans and Alsatians began arriving here in 1840, many were driven here by the grape blight in Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer valleys. They sent back Texas muscadines to Germany, and only the hybrid grapes survived the blight. Good thing, too, they brought us Alsatian smoked, dried sausage. (this is venison from Dziuk's meat market in Castroville)

Had a trout reel initially ice-seize at 18-degrees from the condensation of first taking it out. After the ice sublimated, it fished fine again. The day also got really nice.

I remember this covered on another topic a few months ago. I'm a procure advocate, and got that way from a guide trip 40 years ago. The "attractant" factor that so many people disbelieve is worth disbelieving. The reason to use a bait scent is to hide the smell and taste of Us on the lure and slow down rejection. Also to mask the steel and lead - if you don't believe me, taste a piece of lead. It makes a huge difference with salt fish, also with salmon. My Alaska guide buddy wears gloves when he handles all salmon bait.

sorry I'm late - my niche fly rods for hill country limestone creeks are venerable glass, mostly Phillipsons from the early 70s, and all 7' or 6'6" - most are rated 6-wt, but glass tends to fish well with a range of line weights. You have a pretty new rod, thanks for showing it. ok, and a John Pickard Driggs River cane 5-wt thrown in the niche, also

agree, it's always best to get out first and figure out what rigging will improve operation for you. The worst thing you can do is drill holes in your boat and decide later that's not where you really wanted them. With good planning, you can also do most rigging without drilling holes, including a no-holes trolley.

The Alphas Air would be my Daiwa choice. If you want reliable casting on the 1/8 oz, a shallow spool reel aimed at 1/16th oz is just going to improve your cast reliability with 10-lb fluoro or 20-lb braid. The Tatula 100 has about 3 times the spool depth, and the SV TW 103 JDM looks nice, but still has a deeper spool that doubles the line capacity. I filled my 1/8 oz (inshore) niche on a similar light-in-hand and light-tip ML rod with the Lew's SP to get their new shallow spool, and was delighted with the result last trip, throwing 1/8 oz.

If you want to try jig fishing for crappie at night, blue is top color for night-time fishing.

With an anchor, you probably want an anchor trolley to be able to aim the aspect of your boat, relative to the wind and shore. Boats tend to windcock perpendicular to the wind, which also makes them less than stable. The most stable boat has the keel line parallel to the wind. More often than an anchor, I use a drift sock, with the trolley. Here's my buddy Josh drifting a very narrow boat, and in a beating 18-kt wind. He can only do this because he has drift sock deployed at stern using his trolley.

If you want the Really small stuff, YGK Olltolos Finesse in PE#0.5 is 12-lb, 0.12 mm diameter. You won't find any smoother. This is the smallest braid I use, and tough to see. It's smaller than 832 in 6-lb, and the same reported diameter as Sufix Nanobraid in 8-lb. My experience loading spools, Sufix is always a little thicker than they report, and YKG is always a little thinner.

I vote for Malwarebytes, and use on my Android phone. Also on home computer with great results.

Inshore, I fish this neutral-density TSL Grasswalker ad infinitude. On the expanse shallow flats, it finds the zone, right on top of the grass, and dog-walks with any retrieve. Also weedless, and fishes right through the grass. I've tried Owner, VMC, and stuck with Trokar 140. My buddy Tobin designed this lure after 1000 prototypes, and per his recommendation, I bend every hook so the point aims at the eye. On his website, some guys are also reporting bass catches, especially using weighted swimbait hooks.

it's not the fish we mind ? It's more like the redundancy. There's a retired guy on a local coast website who, every day, posts the same photo of him holding a speckled trout really close to his camera short focal length. Same expression, same knuckles, and can't really tell if it's a different fish.

All fair enough, but giving up spool bearing mass reduces inertia, which adds up in the light lures, cast distance, and especially backlash control considerations - making the low-inertia bearings both easier to start and easier to stop. (really has nothing to do with a 175-lb cyclist bouncing along potholes - his concern comes from weight-weenie imagination) You might notice between the spool bearing grades shown, there are notable differences between bearing-ball size, composition, and overall mass. I think it's fair to assume the bearings made just for light lures improve that task, and are under-qualified for throwing meat and spider-weights - there's certainly a difference in contact stress on the bearing balls and races. As far as Japanese language and limited ability for it to transliterate into English, it makes more sense to them if it stays in their language, and when they beta-google us, we sound just as silly to them. They're just nicer about it. Bearing oil viscosity - well, my surf reel with full zirconia spool bearings, there's a notable response difference in mag-brake effect (lost a bit of Lenz there) - though virtually mass-less and low inertia, and they otherwise don't need any oil, I have to use a higher viscosity bearing oil to get a backlash-free 100-m cast with meat and spider-weight. The real purpose of this bearing choice is the reel getting washed in surf slurry.

maybe he misses replacing A/R dogs every season

The example I had to show was Lami 8'6' MTC - this is for getting away from hull slap drifting the coast flats in a power boat, or casting across a cut - it throws 1/8-oz with aplomb, btw. Another friend uses this same rod for lures in the surf. The answer is in ballistics. For the same rotational velocity on the rod, every 20% increase in rod length doubles your cast.

The answer is because braid is so limp - it just doesn't have any stiffness. If you hold a length of mono/fluoro up, it points up by itself - braid won't do that. I know everybody loves Tatsu fluorocarbon, which is low memory (it doesn't coil badly), but it's not limp. I did the test holding up a piece of Tatsu and a piece of Blue Label leader of the same diameter - the Tatsu was stiffer, and the Blue Label was limper. Same 10" floppy ends, all were rubbed so they laid straight and parallel on the paper before I taped them. The curves you see now are from gravity with the paper taped on the end. Tatsu, Blue Label, Sufix 832, all the same diameter.

As I mentioned, the only time it made a difference for me was cranking a fly reel against a charging 30" Kenai rainbow - LHW came up short and cost me a fish. Otherwise, I'm so left/right brain, I don't really care, though my muscle memory is trained for rods to fly- and bait-cast LH, and cast a spinning rod RH.

Not only that, but any time you have plugs or any treble-hook-lures sharing a tackle box slot, they want to birds-nest all the hooks together.

I see a reverse cone in that line lay. I'm sure it will fish fine. Here's a good flat Shimano result this Tica hour-glassed with backing and braid working line, and it will fish ok but it got perfect line lay with Tatsu on the other spool - and this is what it was designed and rated for btw, a problem you can get with both hour-glassing and reverse cone line lay, is line digging in at the bottom of the spool with high drag load. If I'm loading a spool that shows this tendency, every fourth oscillation or so, I'll use the spool drag to add a wind at the spool bottom to help fill the gap. Neither Shimano I show in photos will ever have a problem with line dig.