bulldog1935

This is basically the same product that Flex Coat sells just for the job

Asian Portal will have the best price, but you bought a flagship reel

there are at least a few reels that counting handle cranks works. If you're fishing PE#0.5 finesse braid on this spool, you actually need a backing calculation to fill it. Advanced fishing reel line capacity estimator - Pattaya Fishing and for BFS, that Roro-X spool held 90 m of PE#0.8 - didn't have to count, though, because the line changed colors every 10 m.

hmmm

Not only does Roro make a Great BFS spool and bearings, they have the best deal out there on a do-everything pin-remover tool

that's a pretty perfect combo. If you want to see more, visit, and especially search the archive on FFR Another Spin page gratuitous pre-Mitchell CAP and Cortland C2000 glass UL Since Eric mentioned it below, here's the thread I started that mostly talks about antique tackle (and 20 years of sorting through it). You guys like the old stuff? - Fishing Rods, Reels, Line, and Knots - Bass Fishing Forums (bassresource.com)

I wouldn't fret over OEM spool bearings wearing out, and wouldn't buy replacement OEM shielded spool bearings. I doubt seriously that Shimano uses quality Japanese bearings. There are too many good spool bearing options out there. A recent parts order from Asian Portal, I threw in MTCW spool bearings for two reels. There are several US vendors who import ZPI bearings. Tackle Trap, Carolina Fishing. For BFS, Rorolures has a great store and the best buy on a do-everything spool pin remover. My spool bearing oil drops are after trips, since all my tackle gets salt attention. To me, shielded bearings are to retain their factory lube in drive use, and spools get unshielded bearings and performance oil. you can find the rest of this table here The really good Japanese aftermarket reel parts makers - Livre, MTCW, ZPI - their bread and butter is motorcycle racing parts.

Here's a Really Good link on How to Read the Beach Everyone has covered most of the good lures. My surf lure rig is a raced-out Abu CT, 5500 width, shallow spool and braid, 8' RH Composites rod, 1/4 to 1 oz. It will sail that 1/4 oz 100 yds. But 30 years before, I was fishing the surf with a Lew's and 7' rod, 15-lb Big Game mono. I would be covered with Mirrolure and Kastmaster spoons for the heavy end. Also like Hogy's epoxy jigs for casting forever to surface fish sign. For topwater, I go to Megabass Dog-X and swap the hooks for salty trebles. A very good neutral-density lure for slow subsurface dog-walking is TSL Grasswalker - can't possibly look or behave more like mullet. you can also fish it with a weighted swimbait hook to get a bit deeper in the column and retrieve a bit faster. Vudu shrimp is tough to beat for bottom-bouncing, but the lure just above works about as well. If you have a chance to fish pier lights at night, the smallest jigs, swim-shad and bucktails rigged tandem are king. While glow is an obvious night color, blue catches more fish at night. My best tandem rig is 2" swim-shad, glow in front and blue in the back. Back to the surf - if you want to fish cut-bait on the bottom, you need spider weights to dig into the sand and keep your bait out there longer. Pick spider weight at your rod max weight capacity, and multi-hook heavy-leader rig - you should be able to buy all kinds of terminal tackle at local shops.

Be careful towing with a short wheel base vehicle. My dad tows his boat with an Expedition, and at highway speeds, the long couple of the boat trailer can set up divergent oscillation in the short wheelbase truck. It's fine as long as he limits speed to 65 mph, but much above that, the boat takes over the steering. Before the Expedition, he had a long wheelbase GMC van that would tow it at any speed.

Thanks friend, I plan to take it with my kayak to the local no-motors reservoir a few times this summer.

this photo is a green sunfish hen - the males have yellow belly, with red ear and fin tips - yes, the smiling young man's fish is a warmouth This is my buddy's photo, and the best example I had. Another day I released a 13" green sunfish in metro Austin Bull Creek that would blow away the TX state record. This was a small impoundment shared with a pod of bass to 10 lbs. This massive redbreast hen was in a headwaters oxbow she shared with a 5-lb bass. Green sunfish have the largest gill-to-body-mass, and will be the last fish in drought-dwindling ponds and isolated side pools. They're also very bad about stunting if no larger predators are there. Have literally caught them in rain puddles from pond overflow. @DrAloha In W TN, I would think highway borrow pits shared with bass would be a great place to find a monster green. This means something. You'll also have a hoot catching bass in a barrel.

I wasn't sure on the Ryobi, so I asked my friend Tom who owns fiberglassflyrodders forum. He came back with mid-to late '80s on the Ryobi, so it would match an early graphite rod. The Daiwa 500c is late '70s, and it should likely be a glass rod. The 500c is also a choice reel for XUL threadlining, building an XUL spinning rod using a 3-wt fly rod blank, and fishing 2-lb nylon tippet for line and sub-gram lures.. Threadlining is pretty much the Original Finesse Fishing. Joe Robinson wrote a book on it, Piscatorial Absurdities, including his time with Dave Whitlock building threadlining rods and fishing this technique, when they weren't teaching or guiding fly rods. Here's my buddy Alex threadlining with his Daiwa 500c and XUL rod he built from fly blank It was a good day for Alex, with several nice bass to hand.

I agree with always fish spinning tackle with some form of swivel. Since I'm usually with toothy fish in the salt, I use titanium-wire bite traces. with micro swivels. But simply connecting a micro swivel between your base line and leader accomplishes the same thing. Line memory loops are a permanent set in the monofilament. In spite of the answer trends given on this forum, limper monofilmament lines take worse memory set than stiffer monofilament lines (Tatsu). If you dislike line memory enough to not accept any (me), fish braid. If you want to avoid wind knots, cast with good manual bail technique, no matter what line you use.

mine multiply like rabbits

I have heard only one bad experience, and Asian Portal is making it right. A friend recently ordered a Daiwa Alphas Air at a great price. Oddly, Daiwa Q/C let the frame by without a pressed-in hard anodized spool guard on one side of the frame. It allowed his first backlash to wrap the spindle behind the spool flange. Vs. AP sent him a Fed-Ex return ticket pdf and gave him a full refund. Of course now he's on his own to find stock and another deal that good. @transpose Certate - As far as I can tell, '19 Certate is LT version, and '21 Certate is SW version begins, at offshore 10000 size. The LT will be lighter weight, functional size, and shallow spool, for braid. The cost difference is double. If they are coming out with a '21 Certate LT, you won't be able to get inside without special tools - I'm not sure about the '19 - I can't get past Shimano '18 Stella derivatives (see below). I would be happy with the Mg-body '21 Luvias Airity.

lotsa beevos around here. You can't afford land in Texas unless you have an agricultural property tax exemption - some folks run small cattle herds, emus and ostriches were big for awhile, others just keep a few beevos. There's a federal subsidy for keeping endangered African animals, which includes most every African animal. There's a nearby spread with zebra hybrids (w/ donkeys), which rate the federal subsidy.

You're welcome - here's the primer on backlash and casting brakes.

We leap at the chance to drift-fish our salt kayaks in 12-18 kt wind. Without the wind, we lose both stealth advantage and the ability to move quickly onto fish.

These photos were well-received on another thread. Different Ambloplites sp. rock bass in my home tailwater (took a red thread midge) - the cold tailwater is the only place I catch these. Lepomis sp. warmouth munched a buddy's popper in the Guadalupe headwaters. they definitely prefer warmer, stiller water. since I'm here, another bud's piggy warmouth farther down the Guadalupe ate a pistol pete

I had the Lew's combo mag + centrifugal in Custom Inshore. My gripe was the weight of the spool add-on, getting me back to the clean-spool mag brake as my favorite Lew's. That's also what sent Lew's back to the drawing board for their new lightweight centrifugal spool add-on. Sorry, I never took a photo of the combo brake. You can find the same mag brake in Abu Revo (though LFS frame design is superior, in simple things like latching the palm plate). I gave the Custom Inshore to my buddy Lou, who needed to fish a baitcaster in place of his Zebco Bullet. The combo brake is good for a beginner casting 1/4 oz and up. Only recently resolved my ML niche with Zillion SV TW. Daiwa's SV brake is the no-brainer brake for the widest possible lure range - set the mag for wind control with your lightest lure and forget about it. Gives you the same start-up brake as centrifugal for heavy weights, then relaxes to lower-force linear mag for longer cast. You can watch tournament casters doing the same thing manually, adjusting their mag brake from heavy start-up through lighter mid-flight to get over the hump, then turning it off for the longest possible finish. (They don't care if the end of their cast backlashes - they only load a little more line than their longest cast)

Ambloplites rupestris Northern rock bass; Redeye; Redeye bass; Rock bass

I can tell you with Lew's centrifugal brake, they work best with heavy lures, and Lew's mag brake works much better with light lures. The mag brake gives better distance and wind control. Big spool capacity, linear mag brake - seems like it should go against it, but Super Duty astounds with cast distance and wind control - even 1/8 oz jigheads. The centrifugal brake is extremely reliable, but it costs distance. The only bait reels I own in pairs are Lew's Super Duty (mag), Daiwa SV TW, and Abu CT customs (centrifugal + fixed mag). With 1/4 oz and more, the CTs out-distance everything, and they're supposed to...

In my distance casting trials from surf to BFS, spool bearings are something you can control to reduce inertia, which affects both backlash and distance. Reduced inertia = lower force to start and stop. Daiwa buys into it enough that they improve their spool bearings, even on large-capacity spools, with micro-races, micro-balls, and lightweight OD spacers.

3x10x4 is 3-mm ID, 10-mm OD, 4-mm thick. My thought is spool bearings should be light and low-inertia, lubed with the lightest oil, and I prefer un-shielded so I can pick my own oil. Tension-cap bearing - my Lew's Super Duty get an HD un-shielded bearing in the cap, though this bearing doesn't normally spin during casting. Note that newer reels with pinion support bearing usually don't have a cap bearing. Palm plate bearing is a spool bearing, and I want racy. Drive bearings should be shielded and factory grease is good. You can probably search many references on the forum for cleaning and re-greasing shielded bearings. I bet if you contact HPRbearings, he can probably put a bearing kit together for your reel.

what we're missing is whether you want a spinning rod or casting rod (HMX is offered in both). MM is good all-around - ML will usually get you to 1/8 oz. The best BFS bass rods will cast 1/16 oz - but can they also be fast and have a wide lure-weight range, up to 5/8 oz. In my niches, the 3 are different rods. My thought is the small stream trout rod should be a different rod from the others. To work well there, it's going to be too light for vertical jigging.