bulldog1935

BG=F150 Nasci = Corolla. @C5Longhorn I have this youtube set to start with a direct comparison of BG and Battle, and gets to Nasci at 45:56

I have one more worth showing. The side plates for my 5500 and 6500 custom surf reels were a US-model Blue Yonder and world-model Blue Elite. I was never quite happy with the alignment of the A/R roller bearing on the Blue Elite side plates, plus they had a bit of rash. So I moved the better Blue Yonder side plates over to my 6500, and bought a set of ZZeta side plates, which came with the A/R installed, from SurfCastProShop. Perfect set-up with the surf-lure reel, which doesn't need a bait-feed clicker, but I thought the palm-side plate was kind of dull. When I modified my Royal Express 4600, I cannibalized the stainless thumbscrews from this reel, and found a blue set in UK - they really set off the looks of this reel.

@Torres sorry, no ig, no fb - I hang on a few internet forums, including BR, TKF, FFR, and ORCA. I used to make a hobby business of repairing antique reels, cleaning and preservation, etc - mostly fly reels - I still do it, just don't try to get the word out like I used to. I see a few/year now vs. that many in a month when I was promoting it on classicflyrodforum, and had a very dressy yuku page. I had a niche converting RHW fly reels to LHW. And still on those forums, whenever I list an item for sale, they get tend to get snapped up in a hurry. What can I say, when I'm not fishing, I like petting and tuning fishing reels. A friend on FFR, whom we've fished together with trips across the country to meet up, calls me the reel whisperer. I've mailed hundreds of reels back and forth across the country, but honestly, this decade, there's not a shipping service I would trust to send OP's Leonard by Philbrook & Payne.

The lure is why the jackall youtube showed up on the Tackle page. It looks neat, don't think I'll ever buy any, and neutral-density TSL Grasswalker my buddy Tobin makes will cover me for skipping into the mangroves. the cast - I love spiral/ centrifugal casts, anyway. Most fishermen are so fixed on a back-cast to load the rod, they don't expect centrifugal to load the rod sufficiently, but this is how people have been surf fishing long rods and heavy weights forever.

watch the spiral cast this gent makes - it's very good

This year, I've added a couple more, including a BFS 1500C with Avail shallow spool, mag brake, LW parts, and doesn't need a centrifugal brake to cast up to 7-g lures (1/4 oz) for the light stream rod max rating. Found a great ebay buy - $80 - on a virtual mint Royal Express 1, essentially a 4600C3. I really bought the reel as a vehicle for an AMO shallow braid spool, also Avail mag brake, and Valleyhill LW parts. This one will cast 3 g to 15+g without making an adjustment. the trick with both of these, though, was get them set up with light mono, and backlash-proof before switching to braid.

they're casting knots, but where the name comes from is the same reason mid-cast backlash on a baitcaster is called Wind Backlash - wind drag on the cast lure lets more loose line peel off, and turning the crank for auto-bail closure leaves a lot of slack line to end up beneath your spool. I always loan a Tica with fluorocarbon, and the user inevitably gets line behind the spool, until we go over manual bail technique again. My buddy Stevo, though, was keen on it when I loaned him my small Tica on long UL with braid last winter - he did it right and caught his limit. Went home and ordered his new NS Black Hole small game spinner.

it comes from a dark place and gets darker on every new page It's Very Not Christian. ...and put us on fish fishing is an act of faith, paraphrased, lest any should boast.

I've been fly fishing Texas hill country limestone creeks for endemic bass and assorted sunfish and native cichlids since I could first drive myself to a remote bridge to get in the river. I've culled all my warmwater flies to one technique, variation on David Train's cats whisker, which best represents a ciprinid minnow. fished with a sinking shooting head, Teeny T130, and short leader. It trolls or swings in the current, bottom-bounces, and catches everything, from the smallest long-ear sunfish to meter-long striped bass. So when I applied BFS to the same water, it was throwing small Japanese stream-trout crankbaits - 3 to 5 g, 40 to 50 mm. The best of these I've used is sinking Duo Spearhead Ryuki. Mine have the tiny trebles swapped with salt singles, because I also fish these in tide passes to imitate winter glass minnows for seatrout. I have one specific bottom-bouncing plug, but you might find it easier to bottom-bounce small jigs, and this was where I started my daughters in the same limestone creeks with UL tackle. And that's the cats whisker fly beside them. I'll show you one catch on the cats whisker and Teeny fly line - a lifetime red-ear sunfish hen.

He makes a tight, reverse spiral cast to skip. Most fishermen are so fixed on a back-cast to load the rod, they don't expect centrifugal to load the rod sufficiently, but this is how people have been surf fishing long rods and heavy weights forever. He's getting serious release velocity, and a perfect horizontal.

ah, come on - your IQ is at least 12, or you wouldn't be able to operate a Zebco. But be careful, carp may out-smart you.

The finesse version of salt has its place, which I discovered more than a dozen years ago as a kid-fish exercise with my daughters. But there's nothing expensive about this tackle - the trick was finding it in Japan. While you can do something similar with a fly rod, it's less work and more productive with XUL spinning and long small-game rods (these are all schoolie males). We have standing winter trips to duplicate this result. I've added to this niche with a longer frugal rod and one even longer high-grade combo, and most recently, a mid-grade BFS version for winter tide passes. The OP started the fight with there's no difference between his frugal and spendy rod. Now that he's figured out how not to spend his money, others may have spent theirs better.

Bass don't care - they have an IQ of 6 - if they're out-smarting anyone, something else is wrong. still defending a position that not one person has opposed - - people who buy nice tackle that works better in their specific niche don't do it to impress others, but to improve that niche for themselves. Where it doesn't matter, the very same people may fill out other niches with frugal tackle. Nor did anyone make the statement that buying $1000-combos makes them a better fisherman. Projecting that doesn't come from a pretty place. Targeting specific niches with specific tackle can improve your catch rate.

Every time this topic appears on the forum, it brings out the worst in frugal fishers. A defensiveness that doesn't belong - no one is ever trying to force you to spend your money where you don't want - could they? (rhetorical question). . If you go to cane and fiberglass fly rod forums, you'll find people defending salmon and spey size rods made from those MOCs - always with feely exaggeration rather than empirical logic. Hey - I'll fish my Thomas/Talbot combo over a Daiwa Minicast any day - though my first significant bass, 6-1/2 lbs, was caught on the Minicast - no, I don't have a rational point with that one - no one ever does on these threads. They only serve to polarize the forum. Of course the Minicast hasn't worked in 30 years, and the 1914 Talbot casts great. And no, I didn't buy it new.

how long does each piece from two crates of tackle have to last a pro? It's different if you're buying your primary tackle and you want it to last 20 years.

given to them (in crates) by their sponsors (along with a very generous stipend) They put their signatures on items that can be sold with a very high profit margin, because they get some of that, too. I hope this thing is on. Ultimately, this ain't rocket science, it's fishing. But no reason fishing can't benefit from rocket science.

I use micro barrel swivels, both with built-in micro snaps and titanium-wire trace. Though barrel swivels get bad press on BR in lieu of BB swivels, especially the micros are all you need, and they're great. Not exactly true with the right spool and good spool shimming - I've never had a wind knot, and fill to where my fingernail in the spool line keeper trough can't feel a drop moving onto the line.

Very different reel, but I just greatly improved drag adjustment on my BFS Ambassadeur 1500C by swapping from thinner carbontex to thicker reinforced-fiber Haneda Craft drag washers. Not exactly this photo, this shows the new BB pinion support. A couple of years ago, I greatly improved a small worm-drive Tica going the other way. The stock fiber washer was only 0.035" thick (0.9 mm), and couldn't achieve 2-1/2-lbs drag. The new carbontex was 0.043" (1.1 mm) and gave me drag to spare.

"Just the facts, ma'am" - I certainly didn't call out Pflueger. But I will call out Shimano for their crappy BB line roller design, which is the same across the range to Stella. Tica and Daiwa both have better line roller designs. At least in the salt, seals serve to trap salt, and the chromed brass roller will need replacing every few years, anyway. You might say not all BB line rollers are created equal. What you can't see is the bastante white lithium grease I already cleaned out. I upgrade all my Shimano line rollers with MTCW dual BB - no seals, just shims, a second BB, and a titanium roller. If our OP is getting line twist, he should note that separately from casting knots, but line twist is certainly a cause of casting knots.

There are exactly two things about a spinning reel that can affect wind knots. First is line lay - hour-glass or cone shape on line lay result increases the tendency for a loop of line to push multiple line loops ahead of it coming off the spool. Usually deep spools will load mono perfectly, and just won't repeat the same result with stacked braid. Second is line roller. A good ball-bearing line roller is required to fish braid - a line roller that can't keep up with the braid spooling in puts twist in the line. The first people I saw using braid on old Penn's suffered this problem badly. There's one thing about the operator that can produce line loops. . Using auto-bail closure or winding against loose line creates wind knots.

DVT may be able to turn the work around quicker. While I would never disparage DVT, Lew's has a way of doing the work gratis or maybe just sending you a new reel, expired warranty notwithstanding.

even if Lew's parts swap in, you can't buy parts from Lew's currently - they've suspended parts sales, and only accept reels for repair.

I push my little reels pretty hard inshore - they've all caught doubles with seatrout, snook and redfish. Doubles actually fight against each other - you just have to get them to the net.

I push my felt washers pretty hard. Not necessarily recommending this spendy (and really brilliant) upgrade, but MTCW TD drag knob can make a remarkable difference. First, it's all metal. Second, the elastic component loading the drag is a spring rather than elastic compression of a lump of plastic. They come with both fine and stiff springs, but swapping springs is fine work, especially to get the detente clicker set. It's next-level drag performance, widens the drag-adjustment to extreme, whether you want extreme fine adjustment on the silver spring, or balls on the red. Up front, if you want more than 2-lbs drag, you have to swap-in the red spring. Also with the fine silver spring, you can push on the front of the knob with your fingertip to add drag for hook set or to slow a running fish.

Are you guys sure this guy isn't a beta-bot? @new2BC4bass Certainly I never mentioned you might be a beta-bot, but beta-bots are computer "personalities" that show up on forums and make conversational posts that seem a little strange and more than a little uninitiated. Their purpose is to establish a link in internet forums and then begin spamming. We haven't heard back from our OP, though we asked him reasonable questions.