bulldog1935

It has a silicone elastomer coating, and it's definitely on Jun's "soft coat" list, but so is the Duel X-wire that I like so much. Sufix 832 would be there also, and it's a great on baitcaster. I think Jun's argument relates to line dig, but I'm landing healthy redfish on PE#1.2, even a few snook, and very happy with the line and reel performance.

I've fished that line in PE#0.6 on spinning (14-lb), and like it there immensely. on the right - I have Duel X-wire on several bait spools from surf down to BFS in PE#0.8, and so far, it's my favorite braid on baitcaster - especially in PE#1.2, 27-lb test. Jun Sonada does not recommend "soft coat" braids on baitcaster, and instead recommends Yamatoyo Hard Sheller X-braid - I just spooled this one in PE#1.2 (23-lb test). Haven't fished it, but it casts Great. I recommend setting up with mono or YoZuri hybrid. Until backlash is a distant memory, you may not want to cast tiny braid. If you go to braids this small, might want to keep a soft plastic toothpick in your pocket for picking minor backlash.

I have one baitcaster with PE#0.8 Duel X-wire, rated 16-lb - that's on a shallow, 2-mm-deep spool. It gets a lot smaller, and my smallest line on spinning tackle is half that, PE#0.4, on the shallowest spinning spool that Shimano offers, N2010. 0.008" = 0.20 mm, and 30-lb test in X-braid. As mentioned, Varivas, YGK, Duel, Gosen, and Yamatoyo. https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/japanese-line-size/ @jimmyjoe YGK G-Soul X-braid is weighted, and made to sink. It's offered down to PE#0.6

It's a fair question and deserves a straight answer. Most every reel you look at will have more drag that you could ever need. Five lbs was about all you could get out of a baitcaster drag a generation ago, and it's really all you need. If you go to the trouble to set your drag with a spring scale, you'll find 3-4 lbs is a huge amount of drag. Seven pounds is enough for offshore. Most reels are rated 20 lbs drag now - you won't need that much, but the large drag capacity will probably make the drag smoother and more reproducible in the range you really do need. As far as actual drag set, it should be at 1/4th of your weakest link, leader, line, or rod max line rating. The reason for this is shock loading, which typically has a 4x multiplier. With the leverage of the rod, setting the hook at the same time the fish is making a hard turn may still break something, and you hope it's not the rod.

the other I know of was also from the '70s, Mitchell 440 Ottomatic.

My fishing buddy Josh is a Google Earth Apostle. He overlays NOAA Navigation charts, and links wind, tides and water level from NOAA stations... Here's his tutorial on how to link USGS Real-Time Streamflow Data to Google Earth http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251189 also lake levels That TKF thread also links to his Basic and Coastal Google Earth tutorials.

you don't have to throw trout-sized baits with a shallow (BFS) spool, and you can plug one into just about any Daiwa, Shimano, or Abu. But you can wind really small diameter line, and have just the right capacity. This is my inshore ML reel, loaded with 120 yds 27-lb X-braid (PE#1.2). The line is the same diameter as 5-lb mono. The reel is a Zillion 1000. While the stock Daiwa SV Boost spool will throw the loaded 1/8 oz jighead, this lower mass set-up will throw it 50% farther. The reason is you use less brake to get the same braking result, and more of your cast goes into casting. This reel set-up is still capable of throwing 1 oz (limited by spool bearings) without making another adjustment to the reel (though the rod's not rated that high). On the "standard 100-size" baitcaster spool, you can throw the same small diameter line by stacking the spool. You use larger diameter mono for backing - fill backing up to about 3-5 mm remaining, tie a good thin joint, and finish winding your smaller working line. The reason to stack is to keep the mass of the loaded spool lower than winding 250+ yards of thin line. On my deep-spool Super Duty's, I use 20- or 25-lb mono for backing, 25 or 20 yards, and finish with 20-lb 832. If you don't want to stack, you're good to about 8- or 10-lb mono/fluoro, or 20-lb Sufix 832 braid. Much smaller, and you're back up to that 200+ yards to fill the spool. Here's the calculator to determine spool capacity for different line diameters this one is for stacking line If you want to give us context, tell us what reel you're trying to fill - someone may have already done it.

Not sure how this got to fly fishing - I guess the knots. I can live without blood knots - ever. Surgeon's knots are great for similar diameter mono (should be no more than 2 tippet sizes difference) - 6- to 10-lb is just right. For a greater difference, it's Allbright knot (or improved) - I've been rolling these 40 years and shooting them through fly rod snake guides. the guide, btw, is the smallest microguide on a BFS rod. Totally aside, Allbright even works for titanium wire to leader butt for toothy fish - titanium wire wraps and knots extremely well (not stainless). You can turn the Allbright around, though, with braided stainless, and roll the leader butt around the braid loop, then use a crimp sleeve for your fly.

Pretty easy in Texas. In summer they're stacked in deep chutes both to breathe and feed. This month, October, finds them in riffles and shallow pocketwater - the fall feed is on, and they're trying to get every morsel. Winter, they hunker deep again to find earth-warm. This was January swinging streamers on a Teeny line, bottom bouncing 8'-deep gravel bar in the river to turn stripers. Managed to haul up this little fellow at the bottom of the dolomite shelf I was wading

the way to do it correctly is spend the hour in TackleAdvisor's $100 reel shoot-out, and see how each reel is made. Strong points, weak points. Then, pick the reel that has the features that will make it last longer or perform better in your niche....

To say all reels made in Korea is the same is certainly erroneous. While Tatula is made in Thailand, Seoul Fishing Reel is a supplier for Daiwa. https://matchory.com/company/daiwa-corporation You want a bad Q/C example? A friend received an Alphas Air missing the should-be-pressed-in spool guard on one side of the frame - that keeps line from getting behind the spool. Asian Portal made it right with will-call return shipping, but it's just wrong to say reels made in the same factory are all the same. @dodgeguy you left out ZPI reels are built to ZPI's specs with magnesium spool, titanium spindle, and tuned mag brake cam. Including my Daiwas, this is the most impressive reel I've ever cast.

the spooled light line is for limp, improved casting distance. Fishing inshore often with light casting lines, I'll go the other way and tie on heavier, abrasion-resistant leaders for fish teeth and gill plates. You don't have to spool your reel completely with light line - you can keep the spool lighter by backing with thicker mono, and tying in smaller diameter working line (fluoro or braid) for casting. I use as big as 25-lb mono, 20 yards, to back 20-lb braid (120 yds). The joint takes a clean Allbright knot to get through your LW line guide.

I've only had one garage sale, 25 years ago, and made the mistake of letting go a Fenglas Lunkerstik 2000 and Berkley TriSport inshore. However, Lew's Glass is a better rod than the Fenwick, and boy, I upgraded the TriSport with a Loomis GL2 that still has a fan club among all my friends - they all want to borrow it.

Close, but what Lew's invented was separating the LW from the freespool, giving high speed back to baitcast spools (hadn't been seen since Meek and Talbot). Those were built and then copied by Shimano, making it not too surprising for Lew's to look at Korea to build their LP reels. I had this original BB-1N on Falcon glass Recently replaced it with an Ambassadeur 4600 I raced out (11 BB). The large frame Ambassadeur is actually lower profile than the original Lew's, and feels more comfortable on your thumb. I've heard geary mentioned over and over about Lew's reels - I don't get it, because all my Lew's are buttery, even after 4 and 30 salty years. Maybe the difference is brass gears.

a modest reel, out of production. Retail was $18, close-out was $9. Kind of a cool counter-balanced handle, and long-stroke spool. The size is medium-heavy freshwater, inshore. We don't know where you live and what fish you may be able to chase. Put it on a basic spinning rod and go fishing.

certainly the surf reels, but as far as I know, but not all Daiwa reels that don't say Japan. https://matchory.com/company/daiwa-corporation

finishing touch on my 4600 Lauer black oxide finish on the thumbscrews

Jun Sonada at Japan Tackle recommends PE#1.0 hard coat as the thinnest line for baitcasters (equivalent diameter is 22-lb in X-braid and 10-lb in Sufix 832). Don Iovino recommends 5-lb Maxima Ultragreen for smallest mono (about the same diameter as PE#1). A 2-mm-deep spool holds about 80 yds of the lines listed above. That said, I fish down to PE#0.8 with no problems. 10- and 12-lb Tatsu fish well on the stock Daiwa SV spool, and you can swap that with 20-lb 832 braid. The shallow braid-specific spools will cast half the weight 30% farther, and line dig is much less of an issue.

no offense to OP, but from 1000 to 5000, all Shimano share the same spool/drag tension knob and the same diameter drag washers - the drag composition changes in the mid-size reels, and the number of drag washers increases in the large frame reels. Guess there's some aesthetic to how the reel frame reels look on light rods, but the fishing factor that matters is the weight of the reel. You could probably get by with a mid-or large-frame Vanford on a light rod. For distance, while spool diameter is a factor (even in baitcasters) rod length is the biggest factor - speed of the line and lure at the start of the cast decides how far it's going to go. The ballistics is every 20% increases in initial velocity doubles cast distance. Certainly that's limited by friction on the line at the spool end. Japanese shore game and light game rods are 8' to 10' The light game rods are made to cast light lures as far as you can fish them, and protect light line, so they never need more than 2 lbs drag. My best is 8'3", high-grade Yamaga Blanks, and it fishes great with light braid and 1000 or 2000 reel. This one has landed snook (and also broke off a couple bruisers on the shock of the strike). I can duplicate the cast distance on 8'2" BFS version and (1000 size) Daiwa baitcaster with Roro-X spool. Fighting fish with the rod low and using the reel drag, both set-ups have the ability to turn big fish in the rod butt. If a cost effective spinning version interests you, I can recommend Korean made NS Black Hole 8' ML

with really big teeth

lost gear = doesn't take much effort to make rod keepers Paracord, paracord buckles, cord locks, bungee, swivel snap. You can seize the ends with acrylic tape or get salty with twine wraps. You can keep the bungee short if you have a trolley line they can glide on. Whichever rods are out of sight and out of mind in my kayak are clipped to a rod keeper. No reason you can't take out your Steez and Megabass. OK, mine's Valleyhill, but I bought this rod specifically for kayak versatility. If this boat turtles, nothing is lost. Even the radio automatically announces your position and identity to the Coast Guard

To meet your gear ratio, I'd recommend Tica Samira Extreme 2000H, and you can call Tica America for a $12 spare spool. They don't have a big US market, but a big world market. A quality worm-drive reel for $82 - Amazon has stock. They do begin a little stiff, but run in and completely smooth out by the time you line them. They have optional anti-reverse and sealed A/R clutch. They have a better line roller than Stella. Tica has been making reels in Taipei since 1960, when they began with offshore reels. Tica makes a good portion of Daiwa's reels. I'll add have a few miles on my dressy one, and it's buttery - also excellent line management, which is Tica style.

here's a bass box finesse buzz and spinnerbaits, light neds and since my BFS all range bass rod lets me fish up to 5/8 oz, a crankbait box I more often fish inshore with tiny paddletails, stream trout crankbaits, 1/16 oz Vudu shrimp, stinger-hook spoons... This is always about distance with light lures, mostly tide passes and winter glass minnows, also under the lights at night. For the flats, will usually fish heavier lures on ML, MM, or MH.

I've never fished roboworm - had to look it up. Gulp lures are a mainstay on the TX coast, both inshore and the surf. At the very least, the bait-taste charge in these plastic lures is the main reason. In the surf, any bottom fishing, they can be all the bait you need, and fish that feed on sea lice will take a small Gulp piece over just about anything. This is especially true of the December pompano migration down the coast. A corpusfishing "surf bum" reported one December day of bull reds in the surf rejecting live mullet, but would slam Gulp pieces, along with the pompano that were massed. That said, no reason roboworm wouldn't work to imitate many long, skinny bait species, eels, needlefish...

4 desirable species makes for a Grand Slam.