GetFishorDieTryin

For skirted baits there are situation colors, but the vast majority of the time, I'm going to be throwing green pumpkin, shad/white base, or black. The situational colors would be like, something bold in muddy water, like firetiger or red/orange in early spring. If I could only have 1 color bladed jig it would be GP. By using different color trailers, you can give a GP skirt all kinds of different hues. only 1 swimjig color it would be GP as well. 1 jig color it would be black or black blue. 1 buzzbait color would be black. 1 spinnerbait color it would be white or some kind of white based color.

Pretty sure berkley maxscent has color really close to bone and thunderhawk makes a bone color, but tubes are 3.5"

I replace nearly all my SW plugs with inline singles. They actually hold better than trebles, so long as you get a decent set. I havent done nearly as much replacing trebles with FW lures. Ive doe a little with JBs in the summer and they work better than expected. I actually find squarebils to be one the more snag resistant baits, so long as its the right one moving at the right speed. I have been replacing the trebles on my traps in late winter with duo hooks. It makes a big difference when you're yo yoing them. I have noticed that I do lose a noticeable amount more fish when even 1 treble is replaced by a duo, much less both. Ive got a few older Yo Zuri plugs that came stock with circle hooks. They do work, but the problem with circle hooks is they are a PITA to sharpen with the sharp angle they are on. I could definitely see them being useful in areas you dont want to blow out with a snag. The problem with single hooks and snags is that they are much stronger than trebles due to wire size and shape. If you do snag up, its going to be much harder to bend the hook out if you dont want to run the boat over and blow out the spot.

Ive got a couple Sol AGS's and theyve held up really well to me leaning into the rod with plugs 1oz and up. I would buy more if they weren't so hard to get. I liked everything about the older Tatula except the way the reel seat bulged toward the rear on the casting models. Daiwa fixed that with Elite, XT and now it looks like Tatula Bass has been remedied as well.

I'm sorry to hear about the bad news. Things are going to be tough, but don't despair. Modern medicine is impressive and anything with the good Lords blessing is possible. Trust your body to the doctors and entrust your soul to God. You and your family will be in my prayers.

Clean and simple will always look good when its done right and Loomis has done it right for a long time. Paint and gel coats add weight. Thats why NRX is pretty much raw blank.

Really small baits work better for me. I really like Roboworms 3" alive shad

Riots minima jig Dirty Jigs Scott Canterbury compact flipping jig

3/16 oz bullet (unpegged) or free rig weight 2/0 G finesse heavy cover straight shank Limited to one bait, it would be a biffle bug 15lb FC

5/8 2pc in black for any time of day. If I had to pick a second color, it would be Perch.

I had terrible experiences with Vanish line and leader material. The leader had a nick every 6' or 7' on the entire spool. IDK how it happened. There are guys who use heavy vanish like 20# and up as leader for inshore fishing in Florida and they love it.

I've heard a few guys liking them for inshore/nearshore jigging, fluke and bass mostly. These guys don't use junk.

I like using jig worm in the fall on those days when they dont want to eat anything. I use a 4" worm, bubbling shaker, hit worm, cutdown airtail wiggler or Robowom straight tail fat. I usually fish them in the last of live submergent grass and for that I favor a 1/16 owner darter head with a #1 or 1/0 hook, but ill use mushroom heads, like the blockhead and halfhead, but the weight is always light usually 1/16 or 1/32 no heavier than 3/32. I want the weight light enough, so it doesn't bury itself in the grass. Having a small lightwire hook is just enough to grab the grass, but easy to rip free with a light rod.

You need a lip, or the right balance/shape on a plug to get that kind of walk the dog action under the surface. There are things that are in the same ballpark with the closest being a bladed jig, if I understand you correctly anyway. As mentioned a tube and Bayruf head are close as well. If you insist on a skirt, you could add a spider grub skirt to a BR head, but the added drag of the skirt will almost certainly hurt the action of the bait.

You would probably like the JDM F tapers. Theyre generally slower than most of the tapers here in the US. Either way when you get to rods over 7'4 the tip section is longer, and the actions tend be softer. So long as its not a broomstick, a 7'4 or 7'6 F has a slower action compared to a shorter H F. I really liked the older MBRs for swimming a bucktail and soft plastics for inshore fish. I could see the 904MBR being good for open water jigs, especially football jigs, but personally, I like FC and prefer a little faster taper when working a jig through cover or dragging it on the bottom. Theres no shortage of 7'5 and 7'6 rods that are right up your alley, so option are many. Only you really know what you like and that's the most important facet to this. My best advice would be to get the 904 in your hands before you make a decision.