Jmoney402

Double Curlytail Grubs $2/12 pack Double Tail Grubs $2/10 pack Small Craws $2/10 pack 4" Craws $2/6 pack 4" Beaver $2/6 pack 3.75" Tubes $2/8 (*will cut tails) 4" Curlytail fat Grubs $2/8 3.75" Swimbaits 2$/6 Toads $2/5 7" Curly tail worms $2/12 7" Strait tail worms $2/12 Dropshot worms $2/10 Ned Worms $2/12 Add $10 for shipping & Paypal fee. Pictures linked below, some I have just a pack or 2 others multiple packs. https://imgur.com/a/tZ1uCdD

Megabass P5 Madbull -$350 Megabass P5 Z Crank -$350 Abu Garcia Zenon ML -$350 Daiwa Catalina TW 7.3(JDM) -$180 Daiwa Alpha SV 7.1 -$160 Abu Garcia Revo Rocket SX -$80 Abu Garcia Revo Rocket -$160 Abu Zenon 2500 spinning reel -$300

Are they coming off a split second after they hit it? If so, maybe they didn't get it very good. If they are coming off after fighting them for 10 seconds give or take there is a few things you could try while using the same hooks. As said above, no need to set the hook like a jig, just reel and keep tension. Using a moderate action rod that bends far down on the blank may help, or try mono if you are using braid. If you are using a 110 or 130 try a smaller size, when the fish shakes it's head that much weight creates alot of force to pop the hook out.

I have checked the kill switch, I also tried charging the battery. What I meant to say about starting with throttle engaged was that I put it in neutral and tried giving it gas. I have not tried to start it out of water, I live a few minutes from boat ramp. I don't know the exact year, I believe it is a 98-04 Mercury "bigfoot" 60hp. Friday I had removed sonar unit connection from fuse panel to the starter battery because of power issues. Took the boat out Saturday and had no issues, did not take it out Sunday but Monday it would not start. I am currently trying to charge batteries again just to make sure they are in fact charged, I do not have a multimeter but my Dad checked it before moving sonar connection. I may pick up a multimeter, inquire about spark plugs at O'Reilly's, replace fuel filter and prime bulb as suggested by @WRB. Again, I am trying to handle it right but also limit the amount of money I put into it.

Hey all, I have to start by saying I have a very basic understanding of 2 Stroke motors. My old Mercury usually runs a bit rich, but also usually starts after a few tries. Last time out I was unable to get it started. Upon turning the key over, it sounded like it wanted to go for multiple times. I then tried to start it with the throttle engaged and that also failed. After that trying to turn the key over it wasn't making any sound at all. I tried to pull the spark plugs out and wipe them off, they are a bit dirty but don't look to be the problem to me. If I had to guess the carburetor is flooded. I have never tried to disassemble a motor but all service centers are backed up and don't have a ton of money. Also have limited tools and boat is in a single garage at an apartment complex. With no experience is it worth it to try and take the carb out and clean it? I am weary of making things worse but don't want to spend hundreds on something I may be able to do at home. Any input or advice appreciated.

Megabass P5 Dark Sleeper casting rod brand new with rod sleeve $380 shipped Megabass Destroyer Faust with rod sleeve, used but excellent condition and rod sleeve $350 shipped Will sell both for $675 PayPal only, PM for pictures

Tatula Elite P/F 7.1 RH - SOLD Catalina TW 7.3 RH - $200 Emeraldas Air FC LT 2500S - $250 Shipping included, PayPal only Shipping from Spirit Lake, Ia PM to arrange sending of pictures.

Last few trips using my Helix 7 Chirp SI G2N unit on the ice I have been unable to use my lakemaster card. I have tried selecting map manually, restoring the unit to defaults, unplugging and plugging back in, and cleaning the micro SD. I don't know what else I can do to troubleshoot/diagnose the problem. I also put the chip in my computer and it seems the files are still there, although I don't know exactly what it should look like. I used another zero lines card and it was able to read maps I recorded myself. Any suggestions on a solution or determine whether it's the card or the unit?

What's your budget, what do you plan to use the rods for, and what line are you looking to use? Without any of those questions answered, I would make the Super Destroyer my pitching/skipping rod with 20lb fluro on a a Tatula Elite P/F. I've considered getting the madbull as a chatterbait, heavy topwater rod with 30-40lb braid on either a Tatula Elite or Zillion HD. I haven't found sufficient info on the madbull on whether or not it would be a good rod for this. This also depends on what other setups you have, may not want the Elite P/F if you want the Super Destroyer to be more versatile.

While i agree with much said already, i would like to say there is nothing wrong with enjoying nice gear, IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT. I work hard for my money and bass fishing is my thing, so i splurge. I enjoy a rod that is light, well balanced and sensitive because sometimes i fish 8 hour days and do think there is a confidence factor there. I do not own any reels that are $450, but I always had the philosophy to spend more on the rod than thw reel because there is less maintenance involed and thw longevity should be more if cared for.

Left out that my helix is a g3n. While I am trying to do my own research, I was looking for input from those with experience and that will be non biased and thought this was a good place to start besides youtube. I consider myself still new to bass fishing, only been really dedicated to for about 3 years and am VERY new to electronics and boat owning. I have had a jon boat for the first 3 years but am in the market to spend some money on a bigger rig this year, including another sonar unit and a trolling motor. One boat I am currently looking at, and have a time setup to see has a power drive v2 with a transducer but i need to find out what transducer. it has been hard getting ahold of the guy. The listing is on Facebook and all of his replies come days later. Thanks for the help provided, I already planned on going to Bass Pro this week but wanted to ask for help here as well. In addition to working 60 hrs a week, my free time has been ate up by ice fishing( done now) and making my own soft plastic baits, so again I really do appreciate the help.

I have a 7' MF SC that is mainly used for TRig weightless senkos and shakeyheads. Paired with a tatula sv and think its perfect for mid gauge 3/0 hooks. I use a 7' MLXF SC for wacky rigs.

I had a LTB 76MHMF for two seasons and upgraded to a legend elite. The first season i had 40lb braid on it and used it for chatterbaits in heavy weeds and heavier topwaters like whopper ploppers. The second season I wanted to get more in to pitching, rigged it with 20lb fluro and used it in heavier wood cover. I liked it for both and am stuck what to do next season. I have considered getting another rod to use as a braid rod and keep the 76MHMF as a pitching stick but am torn because I kind of want to minimize my setups but dont want to limit myself either. Curious what other owners of this rod use it for and opinions on a braid chatterbait rod. I know many will consider the action to fast for a chatterbait rod but felt it was really good at snapping weeds off. The second season I fished a chatterbait on a MH legend glass rod, but I am getting rid of my glass rods because i felt they were not very versatile and were heavy (and tip heavy) compared to my other high end rods.

Not very knowledgeable with electronics and dont know any good resources to learn. I have a g3 helix 7 and am considering buying a g4 helix 9 to run two units on my next boat. The helix 7 is a SI unit, with a SI transducer but i would like to make that my bow unit and the 9 the console unit. Is it possible to connect a g3 with a g4 using one transducer? What are the downsides with having one transducer vs 2, and are the advantages worth it? If I decide to run the 7 on the bow with it's own transducer I will need to get a DI transducer and don't know anything about that either.

To me, technique specific setups is all about covering a wide range of water situations and a wide range of different looks to give the bass to determine what they want. By water situations I mean: open water, light vegitation, rip rap, wood( brush piles, docks), heavy vegitation to matted vegitation. With 3 spinning rods I would keep one medium rigged up with a ned rig(or shakeyhead) 15/20lb braid to 8-10lb fluro. One medium rigged up with mono for finesse crankbaits and jerkbaits. And the MH spinning rod, 12lb fluro with a weightless senko. With 3 MH-F, i would dedicate one to heavier moving baits with 15lb fluro: spinnerbaits, paddletails and maybe chatterbaits. With the other two I would also use 15lb but have a couple of different looks, maybe one 1/4 t rig and ***/8 t rig. Or vary the plastic on each, one curly tail worm one craw style bait, or one beaver style bait and one craw with more action. I like to have a rod for pitching heavy wood cover, maybe that's where the super destroyer comes in. Would use 20lb+ Fluro rigged with a heavier jig and t rig. I also like to have a rod dedicated to heavier weeds with braid on it used to rip through the weeds, usually a swim jig with z craw jr or sometimes a chatterbait. I have actually been looking for info on the madbull considering it for a braid chatterbait rod that could also be used for buzzbaits and whopper ploppers. I am not sure if it wouls excel at this or not though. To me, about the only think your arsenal is missing would be a frog rod for matted vegitation, but maybe one of your MH is heavy enough for this if you put on heavy braid. Maybe also a treble hook rod, a moderate action rod rigged with mono. For my style of fishing i would not need 4 MH-F rods and would look at changing out a couple for a frog rod and crankbait rod, But I also do not fish in Texas let alone Lake Fork so you may be right on the money but would definitely consider at least a frog rod.