radiozephyr

Unfortunately this is not true in all cases. For example, comparing two 5/0 hooks from Owner (flashy swimmer vs twistlock light)... they're both built around EWG style hooks with similar lengths (one is 2mm longer than the other), but flashy swimmer has significantly more gap (25.5 mm vs 20 mm). Makes sense considering that one is built for minnow style baits while the other is build for senkos, but it's something to keep in mind. The issue is even more annoying with jigs and jig heads because a heavier weight takes up more real estate along the hook shank. Even within the same product line, the 1/8 oz version might be 5 mm longer than the 3/8 oz version. Doesn't sound like a lot but it becomes an issue if you're already pushing the limits of what your bait can accommodate.

Honestly this seems pretty accurate even though its an oversimplification

Man, thank you for taking the time to type all that out. You know exactly what I'm trying to do. May I ask what rods you use for your jigs that use the Gamakatsu #114 5/0, and #604 5/0? If you know the line and lure rating of those rods it would help me correlate to other rods as well.

I don't mind using line test instead of lure weight if that's the case. I just want to build some sort of correlation like: Rod Approx Line Rating Approx Lure Rating Approx Hook Diameter ML 4 – 10 lb 1/16 – 3/8 oz less than 1 mm M 8 – 15 lb ¼ – 5/8 oz 0.8 – 1.4 mm MH 12 – 20 lb 3/8 – 1 oz 1 – 1.6 mm H 14 – 25 lb 1/2 – 1 1/2 oz greater than 1.2 mm I somewhat pulled those numbers out of I disagree, although based my experience measuring and testing different hooks, it seems decently accurate. I'm just asking for help refining the chart. I have a bunch of hook/jig diameters recorded, and I'm cross referencing that data against any info I can find online regarding what rods people use. That's why I asked specifically about the 5/0 flashy swimmer (1.7 mm) and gammy super heavy cover (1.8 - 2 mm depending on size). I know there's a million variables here, but we can all agree that we're not throwing any 5/0 flipping hook on any ML spinning rod under any circumstances. So there has to be some rough guidelines you could develop, even if they are super rough.

I'm not trying to figure out the minimum diameter you can use without bending -- I'm trying to figure out the maximum diameter you can use while still getting a good hook set. Approximately. For example, my medium baitcaster (1/4 -5/8 oz) is just barely stiff enough for me to get a good hook set using a wire diameter of 1.5 mm. Open hook, braided line, no coating. So 1.5 mm is the absolute maximum I would recommend for rods that go up to 5/8 oz. I'm asking if anyone has experience fishing with hooks heavier than 1.5 mm and if so, what rod/ lure rating can get they away with using.

I'm trying to create a rough chart for matching hook wire diameter to rod power. For example, my medium light spinning rod (1/16 - 3/8 oz) does best with hooks that are <1 mm. Maybe 1.1 mm if I'm using an exposed hook. This means that I can sometimes get away with using the 4/0 or 5/0 gamakatsu EWG hook, but I'm usually better off with the 2/0 or 3/0 (especially if rigging weedless). Has anyone used a 3/8 oz flashy swimmer (1.7 mm for anyone who's curious) or any of the gamakatsu super heavy cover worm hooks? If so, what's the lightest rod you're willing to use with those? I recognize that there's other factors to consider like line stretch plastic firmness hook coatings whether your bait is screw-locked But as mentioned I'm just trying to create some rough guidelines. Thanks in advance

Thanks for the input, this is the exact idea. I'm not trying to get into the business of selling baits, necessarily. I just want to build a front-end that helps anglers identify what they're looking for (or at least narrow down the search), regardless of where they shop. Also, I'm with you on ChatGPT feeling pretty suspect. Every sentence ChatGPT puts out just reeks of AI to me. Also the tackle recommendations it gives is often questionable (see my reply to Tennessee Boy)

Thanks for the suggestion! Using ChatGPT is something I've investigated - it has the "brain" power to do what I want. The problem is that ChatGPT only has access to information that is already available. Moreover, ChatGPT doesn't know it's own limitations and often doesn't understand what the user is truly asking for. For example: It understood the length and weight requirement, but none of those are grubs. More importantly, none of them float. Something like a Z-man baby goat would have been a great recommendation based on my input. But since those other baits have been strongly associated with "buzzbait" across the internet, they took priority. Hell, ChatGPT might have even ruled out the baby goat since its weight isn't explicitly published on any popular site. Also, when you asked ChatGPT for white 1/2 oz casting jigs, the first recommendation it gave was a swim jig... If I build a website I want people to view it as providing trustworthy info 😅

I'm thinking about building a website that makes it easier to find specific pieces of tackle. For example, being able to filter for jig heads that weigh 1/16 oz would be helpful, instead of having to check each product page individually. So far I was thinking about including the following categories: Soft plastics sorted by length Soft plastics sorted by weight (if I can get my hands on enough lures to weigh them) Jigs/ jig heads sorted by weight Hooks sorted by size (or length if I can measure them) Do you guys think this idea is legit? If so, what other kinds of info would you want to see?

Yeah, I like the 1/0 hook for the 6" worm too. Interesting that everyone else in this thread has said 2/0 for the 6". But 1/0 is light wire, plus I feel like the smaller hook gives a more finesse action.

You drop shot both the 4.5" and 6" worm on a 1/0? or just the 4.5"?

Wondering what sizes ya'll use for weedless drop shotting these baits: 4.5" finesse worms (e.g. 4.5" roboworm or zoom finesse worm) 6" roboworm 6.5" zoom trick worm 7" roboworm Again, I'm asking about roboworm ReBarb hooks specifically. Not any other brand/ line of hooks. Also: Does your answer change if you plan on t-rigging those baits instead dropshotting?

In terms of overall shape, they all seem pretty similar to me. And I think I've seen that people will use Wow, accidentally hit submit before I wanted to ?‍♂️ Shame I can't figure out a way to delete posts lol. Anyway, I think I've seen that people will use have used them interchangeably and they all seem to have a similar shape to me. Do you think they fall under the same umbrella?

Yeah, I figured as much. Do you think anglers would find it useful if there was a database that contained all of this information? That way you could just search up exactly what you need. For example, say you need a craw style trailer for your finesse jig but you don't want anything too heavy. You could just go to some website and search up 2"-2.5" creature bait weighing between 0.15 and 0.2 oz

Same here. I can't tell you how many times I've bought a new bait and then had to buy 2 or 3 different hooks to figure out which one pairs well. Or I'll buy a bait but it's heavier than expected so the entire rig ends up feeling a bit too heavy. Lots of wasted tackle indeed, but I guess part of this is just a consequence of online shopping.

For example, for hooks they could tell us things like overall length, gap, and wire gauge. For soft jerkbaits they could tell us things like weight and free fall rate. For paddle tails they could tell us things like weight and body height. All those metrics would be useful for choosing which bait to throw on a given rod AND what terminal tackle to pair with it. Instead we have to rely on subjective terms like Swing Impact "fat" or "light wire" or "3/0" which can vary a lot between different brands. I mean, wouldn't it be nice if they just made this info readily available?

All I do is read up ? I do use a medium heavy rod, but I think part of the reason I prefer medium light is because I enjoy a hard fight. Losing a big fish always sucks, of course. But patiently landing a 3 lb bass on a medium light rod is a fun challenge compared to effortlessly winching them in. That's just my opinion; most bass around me aren't monsters anyway. Regardless of our differing preferences, I appreciate your input and advice! ?

You're saying you think a medium light moderate fast rod is not good for fishing soft cover at all? I've had success throwing a dropshot into brush piles, holes in weeds, grass lines, etc. Btw, my line rating is 4 - 10 lb, lure rating is 1/8 - 5/8 oz.

Really? I know I've had issues driving a hook through certain plastics... but I figured a 2/0 open hook wouldn't be an issue. Do you think I should use exclusively with lightwire hooks with that rod? If so could you recommend a different bladed jig with a lighter hook?

One option I've been considering for a small chatterbait is the baby goat from zman. Kind of a cross between a paddle tail and a twin tail grub. Although as someone else mentioned, I would hate for the thump of the tails to ruin the chatter of the blade Thanks for the tip! That zako looks awesome, but the fat body might add too much weight for my medium light moderate fast rod. So I'm thinking of trying the swim senko, trimmed down to about 2.5" My only concern with using ned plastics is that they stand up. Which could be great, but is there ever a time when you want your jig trailer to lay fat on the bottom?

Would like to grab a variety of actions and colors for around $20-$30. I fish in the southeast, including a couple of blueback herring reservoirs. Targetting primarily spotted and largemouth bass. The jigs I have are about 1/4 oz, and I'll be using them on a medium light moderate fast action rod, 8 lb braid to 8 lb fluoro. So not looking for plastics that will add lots of weight So far all I have is a 3.8" keitech, which looks really great threaded onto the mini chatterbait.

How exactly am I supposed to fish them then? Maybe a baseball sized clump is an exaggeration for the texas rig, but certainly not for jigs. I typically drag jigs across the bottom or gently hop them along the bottom. Certain types of grass I can finesse these baits through, but man... the pond in my neighborhood is literally 90% covered in thick, strong, slimy, hair-like weed mats across the top. And these mats do NOT form a canopy. They are dense, from the top of the water all the way down to the bottom of the pond. I use the DS to fish what few holes/ openings exist in the vegetation. Usually those holes are only about 2' diameter.

I'm gonna invest in a pair of forceps. Are the cheap ones sold at Walmart effective? If not, is there any particular brand you recommend?

I think this is exactly it. I'm gonna get out there in a few hours with the suggested adjustments in how I work the rig. Can't wait to let ya know how it goes! My issue with Texas rigs and jigs is that I'm in GA. Pretty much every body of water I've fished is either extremely weedy, extremely rocky, or extremely muddy. Jigs and T-rigs get lodged between large rocks every other cast. If not hung up in the rocks, the baits sink down into the soft mud where the fish will never touch it. If not mud or rocks, I'm pulling up a baseball sized clump of weeds every cast (maybe not so much with jigs because of the brush guard, but it still happens pretty often).

Thanks Tom! I've never tried fishing the drop shot vertically. It works very well for me when casting it out, but I'll give the intended approach a try next time I'm in my kayak. My only concern is that the paddling or the boat itself may scare fish away. I have no fish finder and I'm not efficient at finding deep structure, so I tend to fish in about 10' or less where the high percentage areas are detectable from the surface. As for the slip shot rig, never heard of it but I'll look into it! Strike detection is definitely my issue, and I think it's a product of the way I work the rig. Instead of keeping the bait suspended and jiggling, I have MUCH more success when I lift and sink, lift and sink. Almost like hopping a football jig, but stationary. I think it allows for coverage of a larger portion of the water column and creates that finesse-like falling action that bass love. So, I'm thinking my best fix is to remove enough slack such that I'm able to feel for fish when I lift and to feel for fish more often rather than deadsticking on slack line for extended periods. Thoughts? I've always watched the line, but I think I've been leaving so much slack on the initial fall that I wouldn't be able to see the line jump anyway. I'm definitely going to remedy that, as well as start keeping my finger on the line. As for keeping the line taught line, see my reply to WRB. I may be working the drop shot in an unconventional way, but I've found that it definitely catches fish! Thanks for the reply! Lmao. It's the only d**n thing I've caught fish on. ?