The Baron

Yes, the MKP-6 is what I have (2 of, now). I was looking at the Ninja blade as well. Will see how I’m doing once the weeds get up and might order one of those, if needed.

You are correct. I took the boat by the shop and turned out they sold me the wrong prop - it’s the right size for a 55# motor, but mine is the older Powerdrive V2 and it’s not compatible with the newer style Weedless Wedge 2 props. Swapped out for another of the same I have and all good. Not really what I wanted, but likely good to have a spare on hand anyway. Thanks for all of the help and comments. I’m learning as I go here. lol

Yeah, it’s a factory replacement Minn Kota Weedless Wedge prop. There’s only one washer that goes on the front, below the centre nut. No washers behind the prop - same as the original I took off.

OK, got up this morning and wanted to figure this issue out. I took the prop off and no, the shaft was not turning. I then connected to a different battery and the shaft would turn ok. I reconnected to the new battery and the shaft would also turn now - maybe was a bad connection. I put the prop back on and found it would stop turning if I tightened the centre nut anything much past finger tight, so there is now a little bit of play in the prop when I push it toward the power head. It makes sense to me that tightening the prop against the motor housing will jamb it and not let it turn, so it confuses me how I’d tighten the nut to 1/4 turn past snug per the directions. I’ll have to stop by the shop again and ask if this is normal.

Wondering if anyone has experience with this problem. I bought a refurbished Minn Kota Power Drive V2 from a local shop, with an older model iPilot add-on new in the box. I had the shop instal everything. The motor worked great first few trips out, but we ran low on battery power quickly last trip (which was the first time I ran the trolling motor any length of time and on max power). I got the battery tested after recharging it and it tested good for voltage (12.9) but showed half the amps it should. I had no idea how old the battery was and a buddy who knows a lot more than me said sounds like the battery is getting tired, so I bought a new one (a VMAX Tanks MR-137 120 AGM deep cycle). I also bought a weedless wedge prop and switched it out for the old one - torqued the nut just past snug, per the instructions. So, a new battery and new prop since the last use. I did notice the motor beeped a few times while I was getting the new battery connects tightened up, but figured that was likely normal as the power flickered (that may have nothing to do with my problem, but thought I should mention it). I went out today and now the trolling motor prop won’t turn. The motor turns fine for steering, and when I hit the prop start button on my remote I hear a click in the motor like it got the signal, but the prop doesn’t turn. Any ideas???‍♂️ The guys at the shop have been great, so I’ve got no concern they’ll fix me up next week. But if I could figure this out myself and take my son fishing tomorrow (Sunday), that’d be better.

To the OPs question, I had my eye on the used boat market for a couple years before I was able to buy. The benefit of my poverty was having a good idea of pricing and knew when I’d found a fair deal (of which there were none during the bat flu insanity!). I was hoping to find a 17’-19’ aluminum bass boat, or maybe an open jon I could tailor to my own use. I ended up with a fully refurbished 2002 Bass Tracker Pro Team 165 with a 2-stroke Merc 50hp (price was $10k Canadian pesos). It runs very smoothly at about 32mph, which is plenty fast for this new boat captain. The price was good, so I had enough change in my pockets to replace the outdated trimmings with an older model refurbished Minn Kota Power Dive V2 with a dated but new in the box iPilot head ($1k from a very reputable local shop) then a Garmin ECHOMAP 95sv (95 is the Canadian version). I’m very happy with the end results and am looking forward to a great season. My only “doh!” moment was when I went to load some rods in the locker and found it only fits short handled 6’6” rods or less. Oh well - now I need a 19ft. lol My advice is shop for a while and try to spend less than your budget. My trolling motor and sonar upgrades were voluntary, but the new battery was not (got a good one, but was $300) and my onboard charger was pooched (another $200) plus about $400 in miscellaneous bits I hadn’t thought of (gas cans, ropes, mandatory safety gear, etc). So, almost another $1k evaporated pretty quickly.

A 3/8oz. football jig with an appropriately scaled craw trailer is killer. Or a swing head football jig in similar weight with a craw or small beaver bait is good. In my head, I think the swing head helps a bit with keeping those acrobatic ones on, as they might get a bit less leverage to throw the hook but I have nothing to prove that theory. Colors are simple - straight green pumpkin or brown and can throw in some orange or chartreuse. Smallies up here seem to respond well to a splash of brighter color. Around chunk rock, I like a jig with a light wire weed guard to help stop from rolling into tight spots and getting snagged.

I’ll definitely do that next time, as it would have worked well. I was just too excited to see my new Spotlock motor doing its job. lol

Our bass season isn’t open up here yet (not until 3rd Saturday in June) but I’m testing/debugging our new little 16ft. Bass Tracker. Like any other working man, I was looking forward to Saturday but woke up to strong wind in the trees here at home even at 5am - about 20mph gusting to 30 so that nixed the day. Went Sunday and got a few, but killed the trolling motor battery pretty fast holding in a wind tunnel spot working a deep weed edge for pike. But on the topic of smallmouth, the lake we were on is new to me and known for some great smallmouth fishing. The preloaded lake maps are not very accurate, so I had me new Garmin mapping the whole time we cruised around exploring. ?

I've been very happy with Suffix Advance 10# and 12# on my baitcasters for crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwater. I can see how fluoro might be better for cranking over rocks and around wood, but I've had no issues with Advance. I also use Big Game 12# for topwater and it's good too. For jigs I used 30# braid to a 10# fluoro leader.

Yeah, I jumped on the opportunity. The owner said it was a quiet Friday, but they get really busy after bass opens (3rd Saturday in June for most lakes up here) when everyone realizes what doesn’t work anymore. He said first tournament of the year last year his lot filled up with boats pretty quick, with everyone in a panic.

Update is I got up early to look at getting a start on installing the new Garmin unit. Took me about 10 minutes to decide I didn’t want to tackle it myself and likely spend 1/2 day cursing only to find out I’d done something wrong. So I went to the local shop that sold me/installed the upgraded trolling motor. He said if I have everything needed, bring it in and he’d install right away. 3 hours later, the boat’s back in the driveway and ready for the weekend. All the bits are in place finally - now it’s time to play! ?

Yeah, I like the idea of a mounting plate. ??

Thanks guys. I ended up buying a single swing arm mount and a screw on transducer mounting board. The RAM mount arrived today and looks very well made. The board will be here next week, so my hope is to have the display unit mounted and wired, ready to mount the transducer next week when the board arrives. I have no idea I’m doing, so wish my luck. lol

Got it. I figured prying it out was the way to go, but it’s old and brittle and I thought maybe better to wait a second for some advice. Thanks! Now to figure how to install/hook up the new Garmin…

I’ve got a very old Hummingbird unit on my 2002 Bass Tracker and can’t seem to figure out how to remove this transducer. I’m sure it’s simple, but I don’t want to just use the smash and pry method. Any ideas?

Good stuff!

?

So, I did a thing and just bought a Garmin ECHOMAP 9" unit. I'll be installing it at the console on a Bass Tracker 165, so not a big boat and not a ton of space. This is my first boat and first unit install. Questions are, does anyone have a similar unit on a smaller boat and how it is mounted. I assume some sort of ram/gimbal mount? And I'd like to use a no drill transducer mount at the transom - any recommendations?

I’m still waiting on my new (to me) bass boat to come out of its tune up - already a month behind the schedule I was hoping for while the marine mechanic finished working on snowmobiles.? Then in for a trolling motor upgrade, so likely lose another week but our regular bass season doesn’t open until late June 17th. But then my achievable goals for 2023 are pretty simple. - become a competent boat captain (launching/loading and knowing how to operate and maintain our boat) - fish at least one new lake - get my daughter her new PB bass (3#+) - take a friends kids fishing (he’s a farmer who lets me hunt, and his kids love to fish but he rarely has time. I asked him last year if there’s anything I can do to help around the farm and he said take his 2 oldest boys fishing - they’re about 8 and 10 - because they’d love to go. Now that I have a boat, they are a top priority after my own kids). That’s all. I hope it’s going to be a great year.?

Well, I hope we can get a little better than cove lock. lol ??

Yup, that's the original box. If I can get a micro remote with just the basic motor functions and a Spotlock button, I'll definitely do that. Thanks for the tip!

Our “new” boat (2002 Bass Tracker 165) finally went into the marina for a full engine checkup/tune up (bought it two months ago - been waiting for the shop to finish working on snowmobiles… eh. lol) I thought my first upgrade would be a GPS/sonar, but after really checking the boat out and standing on the small front deck I decided we needed rid of the trolling motor foot pedal and cable first. I wanted Spotlock as well so walked into a local Minn Kota dealer yesterday to kick tires and price things out. The place has great reviews and the guys were very nice. When I told him about our boat and what I wanted, he came out with a refurbished 55# Power Drive v2 and an old stock/new in the box i-Pilot upgrade kit. Said they fully warranty the refurb motor and can install everything. The price he offered made it a great deal, so our boat will go straight from motor service to having the i-Pilot trolling motor installed - at about 1/3 of what I expected that would cost.? I hope I did a good thing. Being an older unit, the i-Pilot remote is about twice the size of the newer ones, but if that gorgeous anchor button works then I know we’re really going to enjoy it.

Life hack: don’t use credit cards to buy anything you can’t pay off in full when the bill comes in. Most definitely not a luxury item. I’m over 50 and have great credit. I’ve been wanting a bass boat for a few years. I could have gone out and bought a boat on payments anytime, but I hate paying interest so I started saving. What I really wanted is a Bass Tracker 195 with all the newest and best trimmings. What I got is a 2002 Bass Tracker 165 with a same era trolling motor and and a fish finder that will go in the garbage when I have the money to upgrade. But, I bought what we now have with cash. And now I keep saving so maybe in a few years if I want to sell what I have and step up, I can do that with cash as well. So, my advice is save your money and watch for a deal on a good used boat. Start with a basic jon with a 9.9 or even just a trolling motor if that’s what you can afford to pay cash for. That gets you fishing and you can save for the next upgrade.

I'm not against it, and if I was a multi-millionaire I'd likely have it. But until then, it would be pretty low on my list. I think as a serious tournament fisherman today, you either have it or you're at a disadvantage. As an "over 50" (?) recreational angler, I don't think I would enjoy staring at a screen all day. Then again, I can see it becoming a pretty addictive tool.