Grim_Reaver

Daiwa Tatula 100 and 150 on sale for 99.99 and 109.99 on Sportsman's Outfitters website. Tatula 100 is SLX size and a little lighter. Just got a 100 from them and it is amazing for the price.

I have noticed no difference in hook ups ratio with the snell knot. I'm in the process of transitioning from worm weights to flipping weights. I find that flipping weights penetrate into tight spots much easier due to the more pointed nose. In open water, it's just a sliding weight so it doesn't really matter. I would also say you should try some superline ewg hooks. Straight shanks offer better hook up ratios but EWGs are better at keeping the fish pinned after hook up.

Alright, well I've been convinced to keep a few squarebills in a few assorted colors (sexy shad, reflective, red, and I'll be getting a translucent color) and I'll keep my lipless cranks. Thanks for the insight everyone.

Thanks for the replies guys! Definitely has given me a better understanding of shiner fishing.

I have a flipping/frogging set up with 50lb braid, 20lb mono leader from snook fishing, and also have circle hooks from 2/0-4/0. How would you recommend I set up and what size shiners do you typically use?

Learning from my friend who is a speckled trout addict has really opened my eyes to how a few baits worked correctly will work in many different conditions. Plus, I've been wanting to simplify my arsenal. This is what I've been thinking about. The vibration from a chatterbait reminds of the vibration from a lipless. A swim jig with a boot tail has a nice wobble and can be fished almost anywhere like a squarebill. Again, it's just an idea I've been toying with and wanted some other opinions. When other anglers talk about replacing their spinnerbaits with chatterbaits (blasphemy) or switching from traditional football jigs to almost exclusively swing heads, it gets me thinking.

White/pearl belly with a green back is a universal baitfish color from my research. Whether shad in lakes, greenbacks for saltwater fishing in FL, or pogies for saltwater along the gulf coast.

I'm currently having a fishing crisis (thanks to saltwater) and I'm trying to streamline my selection, getting rid of what I don't use. I fish a lot of shallow, weedy lakes so would it be fine to sell all my squarebills and lipless cranks (except my super spots and my gold one knocker) and replace them with chatterbaits? Is there anything they do that a chatterbait or swim jig can't?

As of this year, I've been doing a good amount of saltwater fishing (mostly on the MS gulf coast) and as of the last few trips we've been slaying speckled trout and reds on popping corks with shrimp. This got me thinking about using shiners for bass back home in FL. Could the same tackle be used for shiners (15lb braid main line to popping cork, 10-12lb mono leader to 2/0 kahle hook)?

Welp, I'm sold. Thanks for your answer.

Sportsman's Outfitters currently has the Tatula 100 for 99.99. Any thoughts on this reel? I'm in the market for a new reel and I was going to wait until the TW BF sale to get a Lew's LFS Inshore, which would be more expensive....

I'd rate myself about a 7 in general. Only time I would say higher is if I'm using a swim jig or spinnerbait. For whatever reason, I can drop them on dimes with a nice roll cast.

65lb braid and a heavy action rod is overkill for buzzbaits imo but it will work. Just make sure you get buzzbaits with a heavier wire and thicker gauge hook. You can also use larger whopper plopper sizes without overpowering the rod. The MF action will provide some shock absorption to keep you from ripping the hooks out. If you have problems with braid wrapping around your bait, use a small shock leader of 15-20lb mono to prevent it.

From your suggestions, lipless crankbait in open water or spinnerbait/swim jig if there's a lot of snags. My personal choice would be a small 3-4" swimbait-extremely easy to fish and anything and everything will eat em.

https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/221094-rod-choice-for-shimano-spin-reel/ This is his original forum post. When he says little tuna, I would think he meant bonito (in the same family) or similar sized small tuna species (idk what you have on the pacific coast).

Are you talking about the 2019 Mach II reel or previous generation Mach II. I have a previous gen Mach II. Try loosening the tension knob. Some reels are finicky when you take the side plate off (*cough* Shimano *cough*). You could also call Lew's and ask for help. They have great customer service and they'll help you no problem.

A 2500-3000 size reel would be perfect. If you want a lighter reel, get the 2500. If you want extra line capacity and don't care about a few ounces, get the 3000. A medium power rod would be great for your situation. I believe you mentioned the Fuego 7'1 M rod right? If so, this combo should be good.

That combo should work fine. You definitely want the lighter weight rod you can get. I've seen mixed opinions on the coastal rods, plus saltwater specific rods are really a gimmick unless you are getting a surf or boat rod. Any quality freshwater rod will work as long as you take care of it. I've been using my bass rods with no problems and my fishing partner who got me into saltwater fishing uses freshwater rods. Might I ask what saltwater species you're fishing for? You might be able to drop down to a smaller size reel and save a few ounces of weight.

That sounds like it would be a great combo.

I bought my Battle II as a combo and the rod it came with is rated at ML. It has handled small snook and nice spotted sea trout with ease so I think it would be a good starter set up. For $130, it is a great deal but I do want to get a better rod eventually.

Yep. The Battle II has sealed bearings and a very sturdy aluminum frame, which I don't think is present in the NASCI. I was thinking about getting a NASCI but read reviews with concern about frame flexing while fighting big fish. The Battle II weighs a couple ounces more than the NASCI, but it's not bad. A happy medium would probably be the Daiwa BG (sealed, aluminum frame, and light weight). Overall, my Battle II 3000 has been great and I would buy another. Would definitely handle your inshore pier and dock fishing needs with ease. I wouldn't hesitate to do light offshore fishing with it either.

Any decent rod with stainless steel guides will do. I've seen good things about Star, Tsunami, and the cheaper Shimano rods. Was considering the Shimano Convergence before I got my Penn Battle II combo. When you say light ocean, will you be doing any combat fishing (dragging fish out/away from cover/structure)? If not, a ML or M will be just fine. Just make sure the rods weight isn't too heavy and balances well with your reel. If not you'll regret your mistake after chucking and winding for a few hours (ask me how I know, lol).

Also, the 7' M rod I mentioned was a Lew's American Hero rod. Another vote for Lew's quality would be the cheap 7' MH rod that comes in the Mach II combo, I love both of my Lew's rods. I also enjoy using my 7' H AIRD-X for frogs. Being that it's light and well balanced, I'd say the lower power casting and spinning AIRD-X models should be good. For a spinning rod, you want light and balanced. Also, you'll eventually want to go braid to leader so make sure you get a rod with some quality guides.

If it were me, I'd put the 7:3 reel on a 7' MH-F rod, and put the spinning reel on a 7' ML-F rod. This will cover all of your bases from 1/8oz to 1oz. A 6:1 ratio reel paired with a 7' M rod was a deadly combo for me when I was first learning. Slow enough for moving baits but still fast enough for bottom contact baits. A good MH will let you fish heavier baits all throughout the water column. If you use mono, the extra stretch in the line will negate the need for a slower action cb rod. I have yet to buy a cb specific rod and I rarely lose fish on treble hooks fishing lipless/squarebill crankbaits.

I use a cd wallet. Compact and easy to access all my spinnerbaits. If you don't have any lying around, you can get them at Walmart for cheap.