JediAmoeba

Look at my post...

I throw wacky rigged senkos, the majority of the time, on MH baitcasting gear...

Also, the increased flow and particles keeps your line from sinking as well as the bait. They make many good weights for tubes.

After calming down today and taking the kids and dogs out for a long walk I called my local shop and he said he could probably fix it but it may cost a bit. I am taking it down for him to look at on Monday and get an estimate. If he can repair it, hopefully I can get it repaired by the end of summer. I filed a police report and the trooper stated there are a lot of mischievous people on ATV's back there that don't seem to care about othet people's property. It probably won't lead to anything, but perhaps word of mouth will get around. Either way it isn't the end of the world - I just hope karma or perhaps their conscience gets to them. If I do find out who did it, I would mind giving them a piece of my mind... Thanks for the advice. I dont think I would trust flex tape, despite their convincing commercials with my kids! Lol

Great job. Your one fish beats all 4 bass I have caught this year by more than a pound.

Typically Medium to Medium Heavy with a fast action. I like 6'6" to 6'10" Either but midsize and larger baits are much easier to work with a baitcaster and less prone to wind knots. Depends. If you are working it fast, faster. In the spring when it's slow, 6.1:1 is sufficient. No. Some are heavy and go deep and require a little more power. Some others need to be cast on lighter tackle. It varies. Light line will go deeper. Fluoro will go the deepest since it sinks. 12-15 pound line is good for casting. 6-8 pound for spinning. Match the forage. Typically having a few light/white are good, a few natural colors like perch and bluegill and then a few crazy colors, like chartreuse, pink or neon green. For a vision 110 which is one of the gold standards, I use an 8.1:1 tatula ct type r with 30 pound braid and a 15 pound fluoro leader on a 6'9" mh power rod with fast action. When I use a smaller one like a lucky craft 78, i use a 6'9" moderate power rod with fast action and a tatula ct type r 7.1:1 ratio reel and 20 pound braid to a 10 pound flouro leader.

It's a 14 foot sportspal. It has a lot of sentimental value because I have been using it for almost 30 years - my dad and I used to take it fishing and frog hunting. Also fished my first fishing tournament in it with my friend back in 1998! Lol

I would have to sell all my fishing gear. It could be worse - I didn't have all my rods stolen this time! Just have to hone my bank skills this year and won't be going to the river or the electric motor only places. But I will still catch some fish!

Yeah, it was intentional, no doubt about it. 28 holes in all...

I was hoping I had enough Karma points logged lately to not have someone bite me. Looks like my year will mostly be bank fishing since someone decided to sabotage my canoe. I take my canoe through the game lands and fish some pretty remote places - because they are so far, 2-3 miles over rough terrain I will take it back a few days before, hide it as best as possible and padlock it. Well, someone decided to put about 20 holes in the bottom of my canoe. Well anyway, I brought it back the other night with the intention of taking a kid fishing today...we got back there and all the brush was moved and someone axed it or something. Needless to say we didn't fish. It really stinks because my budget is pretty much shot for the year and this canoe was virtually unsinkable - so I enjoyed taking my kids in it. For me it worked great because I had a trolling motor and could easily fish standing up. I hope that person feels bad and does something good to repent. Jeez. In the oft chance, does anyone know if there is a way to repair aluminum canoes with a lot of 3 inch holes in it. Attached a picture of a hole and me and the kids fishing last year.

I use either a blood knot, a uni knot or a Albright. The key for me is trimming up the ends after cinching it down. If it isn't trimmed properly it can loosen up when hitting the guides. After I tie it and cut it off I always hit it with a dab of super glue for security. If the air temps are freezing I never use braid or a leader because of the ice build up and abrasion.

I am asking because I have a BFS setup but would never use it where a better application would be to use a spinning rod or heavier baitcaster. For the most part I see people using BFS, because they can - and that is silly and irresponsible. But thanks for answering my question.

When you figure it out, let me know. It's been kicking my butt. I was open water fishing the past few days and I saw last year on the same day last year I was catching fish through the ice here in Pa.

But 6lb braid is going to allow you to get quite a bit of line on the spool. I have to ask, why fish BFS if it clearly isn't the best practice for landing fish?

Water is holding around 40 degrees up here.

Fishing sucks so bad in the Poconos right now. I spent 6 hours today and 2 yesterday creeping jigs on the bottom, slow-rolling Dark Sleepers, throwing jerkbaits, hudd 68's, ned rigs of various styles and only one bite... which I missed. The bass are just not ready I guess...

Probably the skipjack newriverfisherman stated.

The way I change lures and Chuck them on the bottom of the canoe, kayak, ground or boat I cannot imagine using hook bonnets. I just use 3 standard 3700 boxes and throw a few in each compartment.

I have always felt it depends how you are fishing them and how they are stored. If it is warm out and you dont have anything heavy sitting on them, they are usually ok not in the blister. The colder it gets the harder the plastic gets and deformities sort of stay with the bait, especially if something is on top of them. On moving baits, like putting them on the back of a chatterbait, it doesn't really matter.

Weedless Huddleston 68 - Spinnerbaits - Topwater frogs - Swimjigs - weedless rigged swimbaits. None of them are perfectly weedless, you have to pick and choose your targets and sometimes you will have some weeds on the lure when you rip it through the grass, but it can entice big reaction bites especially with stained weedy water.

Huddleston 68 and 8 inch. Arashi glide. Spro Bbz-1 rat, and a bull gill 4×4 Also an s waver 168 and 200 Thar selection can hit all sections of the water column.

I probably wouldn't buy them online though. I do want to get a few more of the smaller one to check out.

Clearly, IMO, stay away from Luck E Strike Rick Clunn jerkbaits.

So I pulled out 4 of the Luck E Strike Rick Clunn jerkbaits. One of them you will note is a smaller size - nothing indicates that on the front of the package but it is clearly in a smaller blister and has a designation that appears to be the same "RCSTX". In the ddescription it does have an RCSTX2, so that could be it but still curious. All 4 packages here are different. 2 have plastic blisters stapled to a cardboard backing, both made in China(one of these has a different address that is in Missouri). 2 have blisters glued right to the card, both made in the USA. Lining the 3 larger RC STX jerkbaits with a vision 110 you can visually see a difference. So, the RC STX made in USA on the top in the picture below has the following specs - MAX Width behind Gills - .540 Inches Width at gills - .566 inches Length - 4.328 Inches Lip width - .464 inches Max Height - .707 inches The next RC STX below, also made in the USA has the following specs - MAX Width behind gills - .576 inches Width at gills - .600 inches Length - 4.230 inches Lip Width -. 461 inches Max Height - .730 Inches The next RC STX below, made in China has the following specs - MAX Width behind gills - .511 inches Width at gills - .525 inches Length - 4.304 inches Lip Width - .454 inches Max Height - .693 inches The last RC STX below, made in China has the following specs (this is the one that is clearly smaller) - MAX Width behind gills - .468 inches Width at gills - .505 inches Length - 3.750 Lip Width - .418 inches. Max height - .607 inches Finally I measured 2 Vision 110 Jerkbaits and they had very similar specs at - MAX Width behind gills - .504 and .508 inches Width at gills - both at .520 inches Length - 4.317 and 4.320 inches Lip Width - both at .460 inches Max Height - .699 and .706 inches The last thing I noticed and what I think is most curious is all the RC STX seem to have different weight systems. In this picture you can see the difference between the ones made in USA. The ones made China have less of a translucent color so they dont show up well. But the gist of it is the following : The one on the left has a ball bearing up front that is locked into position where as the vision 110's have a weight clearly made for the chamber up front, not just a bearing. It then has two larger ball bearings about the same size as the vision 110 transfer bearings. In the tail section it has 4 smaller bearings locked into position. The one on the right has larger bearing up front locked into position where as the vision 110's clearly have a weight made for the chamber, not just a bearing. Then it has two smaller bearings than the previous one or the vision 100's that are part of the weight transfer system. But curiously it has a mid size bearing locked into place in the middle of the bait and directly behind that chamber is 3 bearings that create the rattle sound like a vision 110 although they are a hair bigger. In the tail it has a mid size bearing semi locked into place. Visual difference of the two made in USA baits. Clearly they have contracted these out for a set number of baits and never cared to check if they were the same. So, you may have some good ones but if you want consistency, stay with Megabass.