kayaking_kev

If anyone is into barbless hooks, these are much cheaper than at Bass Pro Shop. This price is for a 25 pack and size 1 only. One difference I noticed from the BPS and these, is that the hooks from BPS were made in Japan and these were made in Thailand, but both were assembled in Thailand. I'm hoping their as good as the ones from BPS. Gamakatsu Octopus Hooks, Barbless, 25pk = $11.99 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Gamakatsu-Octopus-Hooks-Barbless-25pk/49765425?selected=true

DVT is here now, but I have found two possible answers by doing a web search of the same problem and I will post them anyway. An anti-reverse (one way clutch) should engage 100% of the time. If it only engages 10% of them time, then your reel probably needs new parts or a very good cleaning or proper installation of the anti-reverse mechanism. If it needs new parts, I'd suspect your reel only need a new spring for the anti-reverse mechanism. In many reels, you could bend or stretch the old spring to extend the life of the reel a little. A dirty reel or an improperly cleaned reel could have this problem too. Old grease gumming up parts inside the reel could cause this problem. Excessive grease inside the reel could cause this problem. Dust and debris build up could cause this problem. Even dried WD-40 could gum up parts. A proper cleaning of the reel will solve the problem. If you have taken the reel apart for cleaning, then improper installation of parts might be the cause. If someone had taken the reel apart before the failure, then this is most likely the cause of the problem. Parts might appear to be in right places but the spring activating the anti-reverse might not have any tension on it. It doesn't matter what the problem is, it doesn't sound like a very serious problem to me. If you don't think you could fix the problem, you should take the reel in to a shop for a service. A reel service usually cost between $10 to $25 depending on the model and make. Please note: I have not seen the reel. So, I am only offering suggestions for possible solutions. ------------------------------------------ the anti reverse bearing on most reels is on the large gear post where the handle attaches (usually covered up by the drag star and reel casing). The biggest thing with these is they get oiled or greased - sometimes by the factory and sometimes by guys just excessively applying oil/grease to anything that moves. Either way - any kind of grease in the reverse bearing will cause it to intermittently fail - the bearings turn one way but have a latch that keep them from going backwards - too much oil/grease/grime and these latches don't catch. There could be mechanical failure that requires replacing the bearing as well. Try thoroughly cleaning the bearing with acetone or brake cleaner to remove any oil/grease - hit it with a tooth brush to make sure it really clean. Apply very sparing amount of oil.

@Delaware Valley Tackle knows reels inside and out. He should be able to tell you the exact mechanism that is responsible, but you will most likely have to open your reel up or send it in to him. Did you drop it recently or do you hear anything loose inside when you shake it?

Yes, that's what most people tell me they do and suggest that I do, but I want to save my barbed hooks for fishing kayak tournaments. You bring up a good point though, if they are just crushing their barbs, then they are using the same size, Thanks!

- Got my wife to fish. - Fished from a boat, besides a kayak. - Caught a fish outside the State of Ohio. - Broke a rod on hook set or lifting a fish. - Got into a fight or argument while fishing. - Caught a Largemouth on a Frog. - Fished an A-Rig, Megabass Vision (any version), and I'm sure lots of other baits. - Fished a bait over $20. - Caught a fish on a jackhammer, buzzbait, spoon, glide bait, and I'm sure plenty of others.

Since we are on the topic of hooks, albeit a little off of the specific topic, I have a question. I have started using barbless hooks for my Wacky Rig and Neko Rigged Worms. I usually use size 1 or 1/0 when using barbed hooks, but for some reason when I first started using barbless, I bought 2/0 and they worked out great. I recently stocked up on some size 1 though, and I'm now wondering if there is a need to up the size from your normally used barbed hook size when using barbless, or if it's ok to stick with the same size barbless as I have always used when using barbed hooks? Thanks! I realize I should of asked this question before I stocked up on 75 size 1 barbless hooks. I haven't had a chance to use any of the new hooks yet due to ice, so I'm not asking because I have experienced a problem with the new hooks or anything.

I think you just read it wrong, because in no way did I say you have to swing for the moon. I'm just saying you would have to swing harder on a moderate fast rod compared to a fast rod. He is also using a MH cranking rod, usually a 3 power in terms of their regular casting rods, but they number it as a 5 power for their cranking rods, but it does have the same lure rating as a regular 4 power casting rod, so it's a bit confusing. So how does their MH cranking rods compare to their regular MH casting rods? There is no way of knowing without running a CSS.

I believe you meant to say 1/4 - 1 oz. rating, but I think we get it. Since you already have the rod in your possession, is there anyway you can take it out and try it with chatters & spinners and see how you like it? Some people like to throw those baits on fast action rods and some prefer moderate fast, it comes down to personal preference. I think you can get away with it, but you would have to make your hook sets harder to penetrate the bigger hooks, but once hooked it will help keep them pinned better. And, if you did want to return it for a fast action, I actually love their 3 (MH) power rods for jerkbaits, topwaters, & squarebills, just keep in mind I wouldn't personally throw a whole lot of 3/4 oz. baits on them. I've fished with 14 different Dobyns, but never a Boom Boom, but I'm pretty sure they use Champion XP blanks. With most Dobyns casting rods if the top lure rating is 1 oz., it's more like 3/4 oz., if it's 3/4 oz., it more like 1/2 oz. But, that is also me just being safe, I have never actually ran a CSS to objectively measure their power to be certain.

I've made a couple of orders in the last few months, plus had to have a replacement sent, and all 3 were shipped in a reasonable time, less than 2 weeks. As far as contacting them through the customer support email they give you, I've never had a response, but I started emailing the sales representative directly and get good response times every time.

I appreciate the discussions here about this, it helps me understand some things. From my limited knowledge, I gather spiral wrapping to be a lot greater advantage for salt water guys that deal with bigger fish, rather than bass guys. I'm not exactly sure if the creator is more of a salt water or bass angler, but I believe he lives in Florida, so it could be that he designed it more for salt water purposes. I have only built 4 rods now, and have just started my 5th, and two of them are simple spirals based on advice I got from a fellow user from this forum. As, I said I really don't think I have any practical use for any type of spiral wrap, as the I mainly fish for bass and they aren't that big in my neck of the woods. My main purpose of using them I guess is for looks and because nobody else in my area has them and I like to try new things. But, this method did strike my curiosity just by the look of it and how straight the flow of the line is. I know there is likely no practical use for me personally to use this method, but I am still debating rather I should give it a try on my current build just for the challenge, because it may be the last one I build for awhile. There is a lot more info with pics and drawings of the difference between this method and other methods on his forum that you guys will be able to comprehend better than I.

I really have no idea, I just learned about this method 2 days ago. He said he will consider signing up and visiting this thread later after his fishing trip. But, he has read some of this thread earlier and this is what he has said to me. Regarding the two pics that JimmyJoe posted and about Fast vs Moderate rods. "The photos of the left and right side loaded rods are extreme cases used merely for the article as examples of certain things. I doubt if anyone would ever fish a rod like that loaded sideways 90 degrees. That image was for demonstrating why to wrap to one side or the other based on how a fisherman holds and uses a rod to show an extreme line flow situation for descriptive purposes in the article. Not that a fisherman would ever fish it like that fully loaded sideways to the way it was designed to carry a load." "And he is right about the differences between fast to moderate rods. But since this process is adaptive to how each rod bends, the transition location on the rod changes with the action and bending curve of the rod under whatever desired load the builder chooses to use. So with faster rods the transition takes place further out, and with slower moderate rods the transition takes place closer to the reel." Another paragraph included in that email. "These rods work fabulously well with zero torqueing at all. It is simply not possible to torque or twist a rod with line flow like mine has. In order for the load to twist or direct torque forces to the blank the line must first side load a guide and use that guide as a lever. In the photo I sent you do you see any side loaded guides with line and load using any guide as if it were a lever? Guide loading is only in the top center or bottom center of the guide so the load on the blank is either a direct pull or a direct push. And this is key to building a cagey hook wrap correctly so it does not look like nor behave like any of the older methods of spiral wrapping to date."

It also depends on the manufacture of the rod. My MH Dobyns Xtasy will throw a lot lighter baits than what it's rated for, compared to my MH G.Loomis/Shimano Conquest.

I will ask him if he will stop in and explain the technical differences, because I'm just a novice.

When I told him I have used simple spiral wraps, this is what he had to say. "When you build a rod like you said above, your line flow under load can not possibly be straight. You have to see angular bends in the line flowing through those transition guides and some side loading as well." "Adapt the guide system to work with your rod's unique bend. The line flow on my rods is perfectly ruler straight." This is a picture he sent me. I'm not arguing for or against it, as I really doubt I need any spiral wraps because I don't really have any huge fish around me. I just wanted to see some opinions from you guys on it and thought it might be fun to try, thanks!

I was contacted through my YT channel and have since been in email discussions with a guy who came up with a new spiral wrap technique called the Cagey Hook Wrap. He seems to be well educated in the art of rod building and was featured in an article in Rod Maker magazine in December 2020, so it's still a pretty new technique. But, I was wondering if anyone has heard about it or has tried it? I'm interested because I would like to try it on my current build. There is a little discussion and a few pics on rodbuilding.org about it and he has started his own forum because the editor won't let him copy and share the article due to copyright, because they want people to buy the magazine. I'm not sure if I'm allowed to share the link to his forum here, if so I will do so.

No, I haven't tried the 903 before, my preference is for shorter rods. I used a Tatula SV TW103 to start with until I got a Metanium MGL 150 B. The whole combo weighed about 10 oz. I never used a FG knot before, I usually use a double uni knot, and I don't use leaders a whole lot. But, I'm pretty sure it would have no problem with a FG knot. I have started building my own rods now and was told guide size 4.5 can pass a leader knot through pretty good. I'm not exactly sure what the guide size on the Conquest is, but I don't think they are smaller than that. In fact, I just went and compared the Conquest guides to a couple of my recent builds that I used size 4.5 and they are much bigger, and even a lot bigger than a build where I used size 5 guides, so you should have no problem at all with leader knots.

I have the 843c, and if you throw 1/2 oz. more than that's your rod, but if you throw 3/4 oz more I would consider stepping up to the 844c.

I have the 843c and I can't say for sure if it has the absolute best sensitivity because I haven't tried every single rod out there, but it's pretty dang good and it would check off the rest of your list. It's a joy to fish with though and the nicest looking blank I have seen from top to bottom. I have other high end rods with Torzite guides, but the Conquest is the smoothest casting of them all, I think due to the Spiral X and High Power X technology. The only negative I can say about it is that I don't care for the thread color that much.

I can't offer any solutions, but wanted to say I have sort of the same problem with both Tatula 100's that I've had. I also have the Tatula SV and love that reel, and have also owned the Daiwa Catalina and Tatula CT Type-R and had no problems, but my 100's seem very finicky, especially with fluorocarbon, even when using line conditioner. Sorry I can't help though, I hope you get it resolved.

Do you think 4x4 are a absolute necessity, as I was planning on trying to get away with 2x4 as legs?

I wouldn't worry yet, I've bought a Metanium MGL and SLX MGL 70 from there and both arrived rather quickly. For what's it worth, whenever I place an order from NFC, I never get anything until it has shipped.

I just want to clarify, I called it a foam arbor, but I actually don't know for certain what material the arbor is made of. It's really soft and light and reamed out super easy.

I would second the Phenix X composite rods. I just built a custom Phenix X-10 and love it, weighs 3.9 oz. I've had 3 Dobyns Champion XP Glass Rods and they are very good rods also, but I like the Phenix better. I'm now going to sell my Dobyns Glass and Tatula Crankbait rods because I like it so much. Another Composite that I liked that was cheap at only $70 retail, was the Defy Black Crankbait Rod.

I was wrong about the foam arbor inside the NFC grips going all the way through. I went to ream one out and found it was only about 3" or so and the rest of the inside was hollow like on the G2 grips, this was a pleasant surprise. This was on the 9.75" Full Grip, so I can't really speak for the others for certain. I apologize for incorrect assumption, as it looked like it went all the way through upon first inspection. Lesson learned!

Some good ideas, thanks! I'll look into some prices next time I'm out. There is a restore business just a few blocks from me that has some used inventory that I might be able to find some materials on the cheap also. If not, the $100 for my original design doesn't seem so expensive now, but at least I got some different options now. Thanks again!