Jig Man

Yes

I’ve never found the blade configuration to be a big deal. However, blade and skirt color are. I fish specific colors in stained vs clear water and cloudy vs sunny days.

I have several things that draw power even when turned off. I have a switch that shuts off all power to the boat. Maybe you should get one. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-9001E-Battery-Switch/dp/B000K2MCR2/ref=asc_df_B000K2MCR2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065655587&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8890764982190753112&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020569&hvtargid=pla-485863562837&psc=1

Pick something and try it. I’ve found the latest greatest line several times. Now I just use what I like.

I agree with fishing but bowling and darts fall within the general definition of a sport. However, competitive fishing is a sport.

Question: For those who always back off the drag, how many setups are you using?

Zero rigged shaky

I used to until I forgot to retighten one and a good fish hit my spinnnerbait. It was a mess when I set the hook. So I quit loosening them and don't have any issues.

My most effective use of it is to set my unit to record. Pick an area or bank and drive it. When I get it covered I stop the recording and move to open water. I set the unit up with side, down, 2 d sonar and mapping. I play the recording watching for likely looking spots. When I see something I mark a waypoint. When the recording is finished I go back and fish the waypoints.

We bought several when the Ark Rod people made them. I haven’t since they moved.

I’ve had them on my last 5 trucks. I won’t have a truck without them.

I use 5s for Arigs and 7s and 8s for everything else. I’d rather slow down than speed up.

X2

The dent wouldn’t bother me. What would bother me is getting in and out of a tight fitting seat several times a day for maybe years. I suggest you get in the boat and sit and stand several times before you make up your mind.

If you have any modern electronics on the boat they are juice hogs. You didn’t say what cranking battery you have. If you have room for it a good 31 series agm with high ccas and 200+ reserve capacity might be what you need.

If you’d ever had a 2 piece rod come apart with a good fish on you wouldn’t have to ask that question.

I only use 1/2 oz spinnerbaits and throw them on 15# fluorocarbon line.

You can use what ever works for you. Hooking to the trolling motor batteries can cause a lot of interference. Many are finding out that the cranking battery can not handle all of today’s electronics and still start the engine. They opt for a “house” battery to run their electronics. I had to do that several years ago because my Optimax took more ccas than my cranker could provide if I weren’t moving often.

My homemade molds are fiberglass. I use double sided tape and cover the bottom of a plastic container. I place the baits, press them down good and spray vegetable oil on them. Then I mix up Bondo fiberglass resin and pour it over the baits. When it is cured I remove the baits and touch the mold up where needed with my Dremel.

Here in MO on COE lakes there is an area around them set by the Corps that is no fishing. I don’t know who would enforce it. Now in state parks they have the same rules and they are enforced by the Highway Patrol which is also the water patrol.

Unless on an Arig the swimbait is my nemesis.

Just curious Keith, is there a limit to how many rods you can use? Here we are limited so our spider rig guys only have 4 each. When I see them it looks like their rods are 12 to 14 feet long.

Jerk baits seem to be good this time of year. About the spawn, it may already be over.

Are these for trolling?

I would rate them and GIII pretty close to each other. On a boat that size storage compartments and rod locker lengths would be a major factor for me. If you can’t get stuff out of the way the boat will get crowded in a hurry.