Jig Man

Some batteries don’t last but most do. How you take care of it is very important.

No idea on the truck. I don’t detail mine but have it washed, waxed and hand dried a couple of times a week.

Looks like some sort of eel to me.

That would have been helpful in your original post.

Senkos would not be my first choice. Trigged craws or jigs would go before them. What ever you use a good quality rod kept in the 10-12 O’clock position for maximum feel will help. If you feel anything, drop the rod tip, reel up some slack and set the hook. After all most hook sets are free. You might make some casts, close your eyes and fish. That can simulate night fishing.

I don’t use anything but 12# fluorocarbon on shaky.

I have a butcher block that is 5x6. It sete on top of 2 bathroom vanities. There are 6 drawers and 2 doors on each side. It is close to the boat and close to my bait making station and bait closet.

Yours maybe mine not so much, especially if on a bait with treble hooks.

I never considered them, however my current boat came with them. I’d really hate to have to do without them.

Unless you have heavy line an angle is your best bet, but you don’t need much.

I’ve been using it for years. I buy mine from Mud Hole.

Nope.

I’ve never owned a cable drive trolling motor that wasn’t effected by torque at certain speeds or directions. You might call Minn Kota customer support and ask them.

I use them to keep the rods from getting tangled up in my undivided locker. I also color code them by setup technique use. For example, if I want 1/8 oz swim bait setups I grab the ones in the blue socks. In my divided locker I have to have them to protect the guides when taking rods out or putting them in. When I am meeting someone I carry 4-6 setups in the passenger area of my truck, (short bed 7.5’ rods don’t fit). The socks prevent tangles. That is also true for when I am fishing in another guy’s boat. They keep the rods from being tangled. By only taking one off at a time they don’t get in the way. Like you, one of the guys that I fish with doesn’t use them. He piles his rods. The air turns blue when he reaches for one and it is all tangled up with the others.

I’m sure it can be done. If you have a multi cavity mold it may be difficult. You might practice by using two different colors so you can get a quick idea of how it works. I just use medium plastisol and haven’t had any problems with nose hooking.

I placed my first order this morning. After about 30 minutes I realized that I had overlooked a couple of items. I called them to see if I could add them to my order. The guy said sorry your order has already shipped and I should have it by Friday. In my book that is fast. I’m used to at least a week’s wait.

I have but wasn’t 100% sure.

Thanks. That is the closest thing I can find but the name doesn’t ring a bell for me.

I didn’t keep the package and need to order more. I can’t remember what it is called. It has been working well for smallmouth lately. Thanks if you can help.

I’ve been doing most everything recommended with a couple of exceptions; straight braid—-last time I tried that I go a severe butt whoopin, straight fluorocarbon—-anything more than 8# is a nightmare on spinning reels. I just upped my leader from 10 to 12. I’ll see how that works tomorrow.

Recently I posted about the topic and was going to use uni to uni with 15# braid to 10# fluorocarbon. I did. It was a disaster. Some of you touted the Alberto knot which I used to tie. After the uni to uni debacle I decided to go with it. So I have been tying it. It too is breaking at the knot. That is a problem when I am a guest and can’t have backup setups in the rod locker. Any tricks or tips on how to keep it from breaking at the knot?

A little super glue should do the same.

Munkin also bends the guard. I find it gets tangled up in my leader.

Have you considered O rings?

This may be more important than the line.