Jig Man

My boat is that way also in the port rod locker when I fill the boat up. I have learned to only keep about 40 gallons in that doesn't happen. Like you I can't get to everything for a good look.

No it won't read through the air to the ground.

Even places like wal-mart carry eyes and tips. You could buy one and pick up some fletching cement to use to install it. That way you can safely and easily remove it if you ever need to.

I know what you mean. I had an idea for a bait last winter. I finally went to a machine shop. They said they could make it for me with up to 100 cavities. The cost would have been around $400 so I passed.

I use the Keel Guard. It comes with a lifetime warranty. One for your boat will run about $150. www.keelguard.com

It seems to me like you have 1 more wire than you need but I am not sure of your switch configuration. For the 12v part you will need 1 r and 1 b to go to your #1 battery. Then you need a b wire to the - post of the #2 battery. In order to make the 24v you need a jumper from - battery #1 to + battery #2. Your extra wire must be so that the switch can run them in = and use both batteries for 12v.

I have 6 or 7 Symmetrys. They date back to 01-02. They are virtually trouble free if maintained. I also have Stradics and can't see much difference except for a second shaft bearing on the Stradics.

I have both. The 844 I use for 1/2 oz jigs and larger. I also use it for 1/2 oz spinnerbaits and 1/2 oz buzz baits. I find that for me the 843 will handle a good range of baits 1/2 oz and smaller. If I only had one it would be the 843.

Get a #10 ball bearing swivel and it should do the job.

I take them out with a metal bar. I put it next to the transducer and give it a pop. When you go to install a new one you will have to grind out all of the old glue.

If you can get one locally, why not buy it and try it. If you don't get it dirty and don't like it you should be able to exchange it. I use a lot of short spinning rods but my shortest casting rod that I use is 6.5'.

I really like the arke jig. I used to make a lot of them till I found that football heads come through rock better and I fish a bunch of rockpiles.

Mike I may be wrong but I think he is saying there is no floor drain to the bilge area. All it takes is a drain screen from a marine dealer and a hole saw.

I can't really tell what the head looks like. It it an arke.

If it doesn't have a floor drain, I'd put one in.

I spent quite a bit of time trying to find a scale that would do a good job of weighing fish. I tried 2 Rapala and 3 Berkley scales. They weren't consistant at all. They would give me 4 or 5 different weights on the same fish. I finally bit the bullet and bought the Boga. It is a great, accurate scale and also serves as a landing device for fish with multiple treble hooks in their mouths.

I have been using Power Pro 8/1 with an 8# fluro leader for the last 3 years. It works for me.

I would suggest that you not use the tray for storing stuff and watch for stuff getting in it. I just pulled everything out of my boat to install a new transducer in the bilge. You wouldn't believe the stuff that was down there and the only way in is through the Flat Foot drain. :

If trolling motor batteries have a memory, that is news to me. There are a couple of things you need to do to keep the batteries in top shape: 1. check them regularly for water loss, and 2. always charge them with 24 hours after you get off the water. You can buy a hydrometer at a Wal-Mart of auto parts store and check the cells. They are handy to have and cost less than $10.

I had one put in a couple of years ago. It is some of the best money I have spent for comfort and boat control.

My boat came with an indash flasher and I took it out and put an lcd unit in its place. I took a plastic cutting board and cut out a pattern that would cover the existing hole and allow the new bracket to be screwed on to it. It has been working well for over 3 years. If you are interested I can post a pic or 2.

A lot of people use a 3.8:1 for cranks and a 5:1 for spinnerbaits. The lower the gear ratio the easier they are to crank. I use the 6+:1 for everything. The slow retrieve reels drive me nuts.

I use the high vis yellow Power Pro. I use 2 sizes 8# and 30#. The 8/1 I use for vertical jigging and drop shot. It has been on for four years and I haven't even turned it around yet. The 30# is tied directly to spinnerbaits but I use a 15# fluro leader for jigs, craws, tubes, etc because I fish very clear water and lack the guts to tie it direct.

I have a bunch of different colors and sizes from 1/8 oz to 1/2 oz. The best one I have used in the last couple of years is the double bladed Terminator. I bought the white with white blades. In 30 min. there was no paint on the blades so after that I just bought white with silver blades.

I know one guy who uses it on his bearings. He says it is only good for one trip and he has to do it again. I guess they don't call him Crazy Bob for nothing.