Jig Man

Chunk or beaver.

Me too. I haven't bought a bass jig in over 10 years.

LIB learn sumpin ever day. ;D

Good man.

Trailers on What?? On a jig almost always On a spinnerbait 25% of the time On a buzzbait never

Making a bondo mold isn't hard. All you need is a non stick pan some baits some glue and some bondo.

I have a spinnerbait and a spinnerbait/buzzbait box, best I have ever used for that purpose.

I have both the Avid 6'6" M and the Gloomis IMX 738. They are both great rods. The Avid will comfortably handle a bit more weight than the Gloomis. I like them both and keep them on the deck when I am fishing spinning gear. I personally wouldn't recommend the 782. It is way too limber for me. If I had to choose one over the other, it would be hard but I'd probably choose the Gloomis. My wife on the other hand wouldn't part with her Avid. She uses it over her Gloomis. She has it matched up with a Shimano Stradic 2500. In fact she rarely gets her Loomis out of the rod locker.

Yes it is. I have been pouring lead and plastic longer than most of you have been alive. I do it to enjoy the hobby as well as never going after a hung up bait. I can break off a dozen $.25- $.50 baits and think nothing about it, but to have a $3 jig with a $1 trailer hung up would be a whole other issue. :'(

When I tournament fished, I always prefished when I could. The thing I think that helped me is I didn't take more than one fish in a spot. A lot of times I would fish a jig or a trig and when I got a bite I wouln't set the hook. Just let the fish drop the bait then reel in and look for another spot.

They pitch pretty well trigged/pegged.

Most modern units no matter what brand seem to run at 200 kHz. Yes they will interfere with each other as the cone gets bigger in deeper water. The typical transducer has a 20° cone which produces a field whose diameter is roughly 1/3 of the depth. So if you have a 30 depth each transducer will have a cone with a 10' bottom and will probably start interferring with each other. You can change sensitivity and ping rates on the units and do a lot to nullify interference. Set the console ping at 100 and the bow at 50 and see if that helps.

And you will have to run WOT to get anywhere so kiss gas mileage good buy.

I throw all of my spinnerbaits and buzzbaits on MH F and H F 6'6" and 7'. I don't even own a medium bait cast rod anymore. I had one didn't use it and gave it away.

The top one because that is the kind of hook that fits in my mold. Why don't you get some of each and find out which you like. I tried several and settled on one type then bought a mold.

I hardly ever fish anything but clear water. I start with 2 baits a brown jig and a melon/pepper tube no matter what time of the year.

There are lots of choices. You can buy molds from very cheap to very expensive depending on what you want. You can also make your own molds from plaster of Paris or Bondo fiberglass resin. You will need some plasitsol, some dye and some glitter. Check out places like Jann's netcraft and Barlow's tackle shop. It is a lot of fun but don't get the idea that you are going to save big money because the start up costs can really get into your pocket.

Just having it on for days doesn't necessarily mean that it is ruined. Did you boil it dry? If not then it is probably ok. A cheap hydrometer can give you the specific gravity of each cell. They should be 12.7v at full charge. You can also have it load tested at most auto parts stores.

A friend of mine has come up with a couple of unique ideas and shown them to Bass Pro. They have bought 2 of them and have them in production in China. He got cash up front and a royalty per each item sold. I think that would be simpler than worrying about how to keep the big boys off a new product.

Numbers of fish is one thing I track on Microsoft data base. My numbers were down this past year. I fish for black bass 7 months and white bass 2 months each year. This past year I had 803 black bass and 1650 white bass.

That is very good advice. What made my decidion for me the last time I upgraded to more power was the foot control. I didn't like the size of the MK foot pedal and where the on button was located so I opted for the MG.

I looked through the whole thing. I didn't see anything I wanted. So I am going to skip it.

Sensitivity is not a constant because of different wind conditions, different oxygen content, different water temps, different water clarity from area to area. What is a good setting on one unit will not necessarily be a good setting on another one even if they are the same brand and model. Put sens on manual and adjust it as needed to keep the clearest pic. You may also benefit by trying different levels of noise rejection. Changing upper and lower limits helps what you see as well as ping speed. Rarely will one setting last all day long.

I like it very well. I keep it in my tool kit under my seat all the time. I have found several uses for it both in the boat and in the shop. I was going to buy one from Cabela's. I drove the 170 miles to the nearest store, gathered up an arm load of stuff and asked where their welder was located. They told me in the catalog. So I wound up getting nothing that day. >

I tie lots of bucktails. I use them exclusively 2 months each year on extended fishing trips. If you are using jig heads with the lead collar, I'd remove it. You get a much smoother tie using just a hook shank. I normally make 2-3 color jigs and start with one side get a good binding, twist that color to the other side of the hook and put on the second color. When it is bound down well, I add the appropriate size of chenille to complete the jig. I only use hard as nails polish on my windings before the chenille goes on and a quick swipe around the head to hold the whipping knots. Here are a few of the colors I use.