Jig Man

The way I do that kind of thing is pick something out and tie it on. Make a few casts and decide if I like it or not. By process of elimination I have found out what works best for me with my stuff.

That is some kind of work both on the rod rack and the rod handles. You are not really going to take those rods out and get those handles all mucked up are you?

I have a rod rack in one box. The overflow is in BPS rod socks in the other rod box. They work quite well and sell for about 1/2 of the Storz.

I let the boxes hole themselves up and am not hindered by box sizes. I just stuff them in.

I have switched to the Alberto knot also. It was recommended by Avid on this site. It is small and needs no glue. http://www.stripersonline.com/Pages/Articles/article_arby_albertos_knot.shtml I have started using the Palomar for tying fluro to the bait. It seems a little stronger than the San Diego Jam I usually use.

Just what do you guys see? Lowrance is coming out with an update that will let me see the 3D Nav. Is it beneficial to have this option?

My wife tows my Champion 206 with her Jeep Liberty. She has hauled it to Austin, TX and back which is about 700 miles each way.

All they can share is back light synchronization and waypoints. Now with the new cable they can share a transducer. As far as I know they can not share a map. Lowrance has several free maps which you can download. If they are the lakes you fish then you can put them on some sd cards and load the into both units, but that too will require a card for each unit. I have cards for both units but never put a map card in the front one. I use the unit at the console to find stuff then I have a blank card in the front one to record the sonar trip so I can review it at home and set some new wpts on places I didn't see while fishing.

I am sure that there are subtle differences in rod taper but the main difference is one is 6.5' and the other is 7'. Like rw said the 844 is a great rod.

You can use 2 lowrance gps units and network them. If you have wpt sharing checked, when you put a wpt in one then it goes in the other one at the same time if both are turned on. Lowrance just came out with a new cable that allows you to hook up two units that are networked and have them share one transducer. My cable should be here tomorrow.

I have had to use 4x4 a time or two on ramps that were slick. It never hurts to put the truck in 4x4 every once in a while. Just remember to take it out before you head down the road.

Go straight to the horse's mouth look up Do It molds. http://www.do-itmolds.com/

A quick easy way is to cut a sycamore tree, pull it to the place you want it and let it fall. Sycamore sinks without any added weight.

baitcasters-- 10#mono and 30# Power Pro spinning-- 8# and 10 # mono and 8/1 Power Pro

Look for a good unit with lots of pixels. Get at least 480x480. I don't know your price range so I just name a couple of Lowrance units, black/white X135 color X510c. That will give you a start. You can go to Bass Pro's or Cabela's site and look at the different units available and pick what suits you.

I like to take a 10 minute break and just sit down and eat. When I is warm weather I eat a sandwich and some fruit. When it is cold, I take a small thermos of vegetable soup or chili with some crackers. A quick hot meal really hits the spot on a cold day. To keep the food hot I boil water and put in the thermos and seal it up for 30 minutes. I then boil the soup or chili and put it in the thermos. 5 or 6 hours later it is still nice and hot.

The more V shaped the bottom, the better it will cut through waves and ride smooth and dry. The flatter the bottom, the rougher the ride will be. The wider the bottom the more stable it will be in the water.

Mono--- I take the line off the top of the spool for both baitcasters and spinning reels. Braid--- I walk across the empty lot from my driveway to my neighbor's driveway, cut the braid and go back to my house and spool it on. Fluro--- I only use 2-3' at a time (leader) Line tensioner--- My WIFE ;D Line conditioner--- I only use it during the day if the line seems to need some help on mono and on braid to make it quieter

My recommendation is to not set the hook until you feel the fish. If you can't feel it then it didn't take the bait. When you feel it set the hook one time and one time only. That way you minimize the chance of giving it slack line. Any slack is disasterous. A bass's reaction time is 25 X faster than a person's.

I have used 2, 6, 10, and 20 amp chargers. I like the 10 best. A note on your battery, get reserve amps as many as you can. They are what make a battery last all day.

POWER PRO I switched from fireline 6 years ago and haven't looked back. I have it on at least a dozen reels.

Now we are talking. Getting a new noncurrent is perhaps the best way to buy a boat. Dealerships typically have a "floor plan" and pay a butt load of interest on the boats on the lot. Some of them will sell the boat at or below cost just to make them go away. I'd pick out the non current I wanted and start making moves to buy it. There is a lot more room to deal on the noncurrents. Keep an upgrade deal breaker as you haggle. I sold a lot of noncurrents for as much as $1500 less than I paid for them just to stop the interest.

I traded rods with a guy in California. I shipped him a 7' rod for less than $10. However, when his rod got to my house the cardboard tube looked like a dog's hind leg. So be sure to buy insurance for the rods.

Even if it had a 300 on it that rig would be over priced. There is a reason that it has been sitting around for a year and a half. You better not offer anywhere near $35,000 or you may wind up owning it.

I like bucktail jigs on rivers in cold water.