Jig Man

I catch a lot of fish in the wind. I like for the wind to be sustained for 2-3 days from the same direction. When that happens the entire food chain is set up. I can then concentrate on the windy banks and windy points. Changing wind can be very frustrating, especially this time of year.

No music for me. I don't even want the guy in the back to talk.

My wife wanted an new setup and bought an Avid to go with her 2500 Stradic. I used it and liked it so well that I now have 3 more Avid rods teamed up with the 2500s. I don't think you can go wrong with the Avid.

I have tried several. Power Pro is the one I like best. I have been using it for 6-7 years now.

Either the 36v or strongest 24v should do the job for you. When I was rigging my boat I opted to upgrade to the 82# 24v instead of the 36v because of battery storage and the on board charger banks. I added 3" to the shaft so I have a 45" instead of a 42". I can rip on high and hold into wind and waves till they come over the bow. The extra 3" make quite a difference in performance.

Here is some good info. Take time to read it. http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/Reel_Care_tips.html

Yes the barb does get in the way. You can not make a good looking finished product with a (lead shank) on the hook. If you can't find any without it, take a pair of gate shears or side cutters and cut it off the hook. You will get a much easier to tie and better looking product. What are are you looking to tie in what shape and what weights? I tie them from 1/16 oz to 1/2 oz and get a clean good looking bait. Here is a sample of some 3/32 oz jigs.

Not all shot leads are the same. Some like the AA trap and skeet loads contain antimony. That makes a better shooting load because it is harder and retains more of its original shape when fired. It also makes for a bit harder to pour lead, unlike the cheap dove and quail loads. The trap and skeet loads are somewhat lighter weight because of the antimony.

Of those three I'd buy the Stratos. If I decided to go alum. I'd look for something besides a Tracker.

I don't understand why you have to explain anything to anybody. You are participating in a hobby/sport that is legal and to keep or not to keep it an individual's personal option. I keep some species sometimes and other times I don't. I do what I feel like and don't have to explain it to anyone.

Braid I have had on for 6 or 7 years. Mono I change when it looses it shine. Sometimes that is every couple of weeks sometimes it is a month depending on how many casts that setup gets.

I have fished a lot of 10# in brush and trees with jigs. The key for me is to stick um hold um and wait till they come out if they are buried in the brush. But lately I have gone to braid with fluro leader for better feel in the thick stuff.

Burley I clean mine regularly because of my many sources of lead and all the junk in some of it. I heat the pot and get all the lead out that will run out the spout. I use an old spinnerbait wire to keep freeing the hole. When the lead is out I take a flat screw driver and scrape as much stuff up as possible and dump it. The next thing I do is turn it over and take my air compressor and blow the spout out from the bottom. Be sure it is laying on its side and facing away from you. I let it cool and scrape out the inside and blow it all out again. I also take the plunger out and clean it up real well. A good pair of channel lock pliers and heavy leather gloves are a must for my little job.

If you want to be able to fish in any kind of wind don't get less than a 67# thrust, more if you have the funds.

I tried several different ones and couldn't get consistent readings from any of them so I gave up on digital and bought the Boga Grip.

kb my neighbor just had his 3rd Wal-Mart battery die in 2 years. The key ingredient in deep cycle batteries is check the RESERVE amps. The more the longer they will let you stay on the water.

MG for me I don't like the big MK foot control with the button on the wrong side.

Are you talking about plastics on a worm hook or plastics on a jig head? On worm hooks I have a variety of HOMEMADE keepers to hold the plastics. On jigheads I notch the collars with gate shears and if necessary add superglue gel.

I like to seperate my stuff into plastic boxes and keep what I need for the trip in the boat. The extras are stored in their bags in the garage. Here is what I do.

On the inside of the trailer frame there should be a plate with all the trailer info on it. Usually it is on the port side within 3-4' of the front of the trailer. You will probably have to lie down and crawl under it to see the plate.

The owner has that unit a bit underpriced. He could easily get another $700 or so for it.

I watched a bit of it but the one guy was acting like a moron so I turned it off.

I am not sure what it is. I just got the ethernet cable which is suppose to let my 2 units look at 1 transducer. I talked with a tech who said in a couple of weeks I would also be able to get 3D.

Two handed casting is like playing golf. The golf ball goes farther if the club head is speeded up during impact. The club head is speeded up by increasing the hand speed at impact. Long distance casting follows the same principle. As you make your cast you can speed up which ever hand is on the bottom of the rod handle. You will actually be pulling it back toward you. This will increase the speed of the handle in its arc. That will have a geometric effect on the rod tip and greatly speed it up which can give you quite a bit more distance with the cast. It can also be a killer for accuracy. I only do it for increased distance in open water.

Spring cold fronts are tough. If you can catch a good one coming in, you can have one of the best times of your life. After it arrives things slow down for 2 or 3 days. Fish tight to cover and perhaps deeper, but especially tight to cover.