Jig Man

I am assuming that you have a pretty big boat. I have a 3500 # rig myself. I pulled it with a few different trucks, all of which were 4X4 Chevys. The thing I'd say is get a 2500 for the weight handling and bigger brakes. If you can find one get a diesel, you won't believe the power difference, not to mention the improved mileage. Right now I am using a Duramax that gets 20 mph empty, 17 with the boat, and 10-11 with the 13000# fifth wheel camper.

I don't have a set rule for those baits. I leave them on the deck of my boat until I get home. Sometimes I use a Power Zap to repair them and put them back in the box. Sometimes I throw them away if they have a lot of salt in them. If they don't have salt then they go into the remelt sack and become part of a brand new bait.

Not only will you need new batteries but new tires are a must for something setting around that long. You will also need to check the gas line and bulb. As for the engine, if I were buying it, a tech would make sure it was running well before anyone got a dime from me.

I like a white jig with a white trailer on a summer night with a full moon. I also throw them during the day when the water is high and in the bushes.

Different types of presentations require different types of rods and reels. I use both. I carry 23 setups on the boat so that I can swithc to what is working at the time of day. [edit]Removed derogatory remark. - Glenn[/edit]

Most any jig can be used as a swim jig if you have open water. If you are swimming in grass then use a grass jig, if in timber use a head designed for wood, etc. I swim jigs from 1/8 oz to 1 oz depending on the depth of water, wind, water clarity, and agressiveness of the fish.

I had a Tracker one time. One of the best days of my life was then it didn't live at my house any more. I will never have another one unless all the other boat companies go broke.

You need a few things to keep the hair in place: 1. a vice to hold the jig, 2. some real strong thread, 3. a bobbin to hold the thread and give you leverage as you wind the line and 4 a whip to let you put several half hitches in the line.

This is one of the 3 bad things in my life this year. The boat and trailer were in the shop for 3 months.

That was the first and most important thing the tech told me. "No matter what the temp is, let that Opti warm up to at least 120° before you leave the no wake zone." It has worked going on 8 years now.

The darkest I have ever found is fishingskirts dark melon pepper.

If anything needs to be lubed it probably is the bearings on the shaft inside the head.

MG makes a hydrilla buster prop that will fit that motor.

http://www.jefferslivestock.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=2&pf_id=16222 I always kept it in my barn around the bull feed and in my wifes deck boat as it only got used in the summer. It will take out anything from a racoon down to a field mouse.

16/20 for all lines

I try to always maintain my batteries in top shape. I replace my trolling motor batteries every 4 years and my cranking battery every 5.

You can always build a box with a lid that allows you more storage and have it so you can lift it out if necessary. That is what I have done in my Champion with a extra seat pedestal if I ever need to take 2 people with me. It just lifts in and out and doesn't move at all when I have it in the boat.

Bar Bait

I definitely would not include my starting battery on an Optimax. It takes a lot of juice to crank them on cold days.

If your existing trolling motor battery is more than a few months old you will need to get 2 new batteries as your system is only as good as your weakest battery. Be sure to look for reserve amps. 180 or more is a must for all day use.

I only use Power Pro and have for several years. I use a bunch of backing and only enough braid to go 20 yds or so beyond my casts.

Under armour for sure, boots with 1000 or more grams of thinsulate, good gortex insulated bibs and coat and a helmet should also be considered.

If you really want to get a handle on this stuff, you will have to do some research and a lot of reading. As stated the mfg websites are good starting places. Another thing to do is once you pick a unit or two, download an emulator and get familiar with some of the key pad functions. Then go to a good place where they are sold or to a winter boat show with electronics displayed and have a hands on demonstration by a qualified sales person. But you will have to have some basic knowledge before this will mean much.

I use the BPS 8.5' microlites for FnF. They have worked fine for over 5 years and don't make me feel bad when they are in the bottom of the rod locker.

Go to the NADA guides and look up various boats and motor combinations and you can get a pretty good idea.