Jig Man

I have switched over to AGMs in my Champion. I am using the Optima D-31M batteries on my trolling motor and the Sears Die Hard AGM with 1150 CCA for my starting battery. I couldn't be happier with batteries than I am now. I bought my Optimas at an Auto Zone because they had the best price and an easy 3 year warranty. When I told the mgr I wanted 2 of them he cut me a better price.

I don't know how the wiring is set up in that boat. When my Champion was done, I just couldn't cut the deck so I took it to a marine shop and paid 100 bones to get it done. They thought all was clear but there was a tube with wiring in it that they cut so they had to do some rewiring. And yes it should be full of foam which you can just dig out till you get room enough for the tray to fit.

Tom Mann was the first one I remember to use long rods. He used to use a 7' rod to fish plastic worms. At that time you rarely saw a rod even 6' long.

I have several levels of Shimano spinning reels. Of the 2 go for the Sahara.

Look it up in the NADA guides. That will give you a ball park number to start.

I wanted a Stay N Charge and talked with the people there. They said due to the fact that I don't do a lot of running, I would be wasting my money. So I opted out.

For my 5" soft sticks I use a size 1 for wacky and a 3/0 or 4/0 for Trigging.

Yes prallel them and it will be close to double reserve amp time. When you charge, hook the charger to battery 1 and leave them hooked together. It will charge them both but take a long time unless you have a big charger.

My most successfull is brown. I really like golden shiner and pbj though I carry lots of different combinations in about 5 sizes.

You had better check Wally before you buy. In most states they have a 1 year warranty and in some states no warranty at all. What ever brand you buy get at least a 27 series battery with 180 or more reserve amps (reserve capacity). That is the true measure of how long they will hold up in a day's use, Charge them up after each use and keep the water level up and you should get 4 or more years out of them.

I had the green mirror and couldn't see my gps screen with them so I switched to amber.

As far as getting hung up in brush and limbs, ablolutely. The big thing is don't pull or jerk when you get hung. Go over to it and you can normally use the weight of the other baits to jiggle it till it comes loose. Once I had to take a lure retriever on heavy cord to straighten out the hung hook. That was when I was only using 30# braid. Now I have moved to 50.

I buy all of my hooks by the 1000 count. I get them from Shorty's Hook Sales. If you don't have a Federal Tax ID then try Captain Hook's Discount Warehouse.

I can see about 10,000 bones for startup with all you have listed. Like the others recommended, pick a few of them, go to tackleunderground and read about them. You will get a feel for what the making entails and the startup costs. It will be cheaper for example if you chose jig making to buy already poured and painted heads then add the skirts. You can always get into the acutal pouring if you choose. Good luck. Making baits is fun but I can't say any cheaper than buying unless you use a bunch of one bait.

Find out who made the seats and contact them or the mfg,

I couldn't really tell what you have as I don't fish where there is any vegetation.

What kind of seats? What kind and model of boat? Those two things make a big difference in the seats.

I've tried them all and the Alberto's works best for me.

If you have a get with a big boat good luck on moving it any place. I have one under a 206 Champion. I can't move it by myself any time any where.

I have been through 5 different hooks with my A rigs. I have been having the same thing happen on the hookset with braid. I finally backed off on my drag and stopped it. I haven't found any other way.

There is always room for a price negotiation. However, there is not set amount or percentage profit margin on a used boat as all boat deals are different and how much they allowed for the boat on trade is relative to the unit that was being bought. I used to be in the business and we sometimes would give near the retail value if we had a particular boat that needed to be moved for one reason or another. Cash is not what dealerships really want. Don't get me wrong, cash is good but dealerships get comissions on financing, extended warranties, etc. If I were serious about that unit, I'd look everything over very well and have a compression test done. I'd let them know that I was serious and make an offer of $14,400 and plan to have to give maybe up to $16,500. You will have to be a firm serious buyer sitting in the sales manager's office to get this deal done right. You should also have a deal breaker in mind that you can toss in at the appropriate time in the negotiation.

I got tired of adding water and having messes in the boat so I put 2 blue tops in about a year ago. I fish a lot and they have held up all day long. I even used them in upper Bull Shoals where I had to hold against current all day long and they did fine. I don't run one of them for cranking. I opted for the Sears DieHard AGM with 1150 CCA and the same 3 year replacement that I got with the Optimas. I have a 15 amp Dual Pro. I called them to see if the charger was ok or needed an upgrade. I was told that all is well with my charger and AGMs.

I had some like that once. I put it in a bag and beat the tar out of it until it turned back into powder.I

The gps does show the features. The sd map card show coutours and channels. If you fish structure it is a good tool to have if your lakes are covered.

I use fluro/braid for clear water. I use 30# braid and fluro varies from 10-15# depending on how rocky the area is where I am fishing. I also use the Alberto's knot.