Jig Man

Yes it does require nmea network. That unit only shares 2d sonar via Ethernet.

I do it all three ways. Todays bands are a lot better than those of the past.

You can go to www.tackleunderground.com and do some searches and get the answer to most any bait building question that you have. If you want to inject a bait of your own choosing it can be quite expensive to have an injection mold machined. The last time I priced one for a custom bait I wanted, I was quoted $400 so I passed.

I like Calhoun medium. I order it in 2 1/2 gallon jugs from Bear's. If you are just getting started, order some heat stabilizer while you are at it.

It should plug and play. The gps is built in.

I'd be surprised if you have more than 100 lbs tongue weight. If you can lift the front of the trailer then any jack will work for you. I have a rig that weighs in at over 4000# fully loaded with a tandem trailer and a 1000 lb jack has been doing fine for 12 years.

X2 Mine was made by them 12 years ago. It spends lots of days in campgrounds and has been from MO to S. TX many times. It still looks almost new.

None. All of mine will have to go for the $5 per gallon propane which is running short right now.

The PM-1 is the only battery I have found that will run an aerator, 2 structure scan boxes, 2 hds units and start my Optimax on a cold afternoon. I've been using it for 2 years now and I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.

I keep it in the boat except for stuff that is only used seasonally like Float n Fly rod. They stay in my rod storage closet in the garage. I only take my electronics off if I am covering the boat in a campground and think that they may get too hot. I keep a good insurance policy in case stuff gets stolen.

The thing you need to keep in mind is how long you will run the motor and how far from your vehicle you will get. You don't want to have to paddle back. The best numbers that you can look at are reserve amps sometimes called reserve capacity. The higher those are the longer you can run the trolling motor without depleting the battery. I'd look for 180 or more. Don't concern yourself with CCAs or Marine CCAs. Reserve is the important item.

X2 I do that on most every cast that isn't to open water. You can learn to be as accurate with spinning as with baitcasting if you practice.

I guess I didn't read you post carefully enough. I thought you were talking about max fuel consumption. I haven't hit wot in quite a while. I rarely exceed 5000 rpms. Many days I start the motor to unload the boat then start it again to load it. I try to launch where the fishing is good for that time of year and keep the running to a minimum as it costs me $35-50 for truck fuel every trip.

I have a 225 Optimax on a Champion 206. WOT a gallon every two minutes is what Merc projected when I bought it. That is close to the same as a Yammy HPDI.

I've been wearing costas for 3 years. I tried the glass lens then the gray. I couldn't see my gps screen with either so I wound up with amber.

840 CCA is the killer. Not near enough for today's stuff.

X2 Dwight

It is not a Ranger problem. It is a drainage problem. With all of today's accessories we need to rethink the cranking battery issue. No longer is an 800 CCA cranking battery going to get the job done. Get a Sears Die Hard PM-1 agm battery with 1150 CCAs and be done with the problem. I run 2 hds units, 2 lss boxes, aerator and start a 225 Optimax. It is pricey and heavy but there is none better out there.

The Sears Die Hard AGM PM-1 is what I have been running with my 2 hds units, 2 lss boxes, aerator and the Opti that needs lots of CCAs. It cost about the same as my Optimas that I have on the trolling motor. Like stated it has a 3 year warranty and comes with 1150 CCA. It has never failed to crank the opti even in 20° temps after an hour on the road to the water. When this one goes, I'll buy another just like it.

You can heat the hooks and slightly bend them to fit a mold. I do it a lot when I don't have exactly what I need.

Mike from Seibert outdoors, Cadman or small jaw should be along. One of more of them may be able to answer your questions. I have the molds but just use the Mustad recommended.

Good to hear that. I just bought an Accu Vu 760 cz. I tried it out at Table Rock yesterday but couldn't see much.

Lead in bullets is fine. I know guys who used to get some from berms at the gun club firing range.

You need a contact cement. There are two kinds: one is very explosive so it needs to be done outside, the other isn't. You put them on the boat and the carpet, let them set a bit then press them together. Check HD they probably have it. If not go to a carpet shop.

Hi Vis yellow or white Power pro. If I think I need it I'll use a marker on the first 3' but only in super clear water. I hate to fish with guys who use the green or smoke and get hung up and expect me to see their line and get the boat so that they can get unsnagged.