SirWoogie

The key to answering the question(s) are a few things: How long do you intend to fish on average per day? What is the trolling motor and intended graph model to install? Is the trolling 12v? What physical size/weight would you prefer for it (#1 somewhat dictates that) What budget do you want to stay within (there are low/medium/high costs, again depends on #1). The box you can do many types of things, but depends on outcome of #3. I know it was a resuscitated thread, but still good to answer.

For the boating crowd, particular to Lund.... How best did you cut holes in the storage panels to pass through cables? In my case I want to put batteries in multiple compartments and looking for advice to get a clean cut through. Standard hole saw the "ends" then metal cut to create a strip? Certainly I'd remove the panel to work on it easier. I don't have access to an aircraft mechanic. Also, I can't seem to google very well on what this would be called (it's used in the metal compartments in the trolling battery compartment). I'd like the cut to have a clean look and ensure no exposed metal, this (riveted?) seems to fit the bill. Thoughts on where to find?

Thanks. Those are the Lithiumhub/Ionic brand.

2018 Lund 1875 Pro-V Bass. Fantastic boat and got a good deal on it.

Wow, that's a really unfortunate event! As always, learning experience. I've already had my share of wallet trauma, so can appreciate the advice, thank you! That's an appreciable aspect of lithium I like... the BMS is there to step in. Now, of course the BMS isn't foolproof, but definitely is another protection mechanism to avoid over/under/spikes/damage. In addition the LifePo4 chemistry makes them more stable than even some aspect of AGM/lead. My debate now is how far do I go with the reorganization. I already have 3 x 100 Ah 12v lithium batteries purchased for the eventual move to a 36v trolling. I have the existing 3 that came in the boat. How much do I bulletproof the battery situation. (1) Find a way to keep the 2 x 125Ah (that are presently the 24v trolling duty), run them in parallel and us them as house/crank/electronic and sell the 100Ah. Issue there is not enough room in the existing battery compartment, (2) do I put a hole through a panel to expand the compartment or find a macguverian way to put them in the rod locker battery compartment and run heavy gauge back to the wiring harness and bus bar it. (3) Lastly, just do the 3 trolling and the 1 125Ah and call it a day (sell the 100 and the other 125). Maximum I ever plan to have in here long term is up to 4 graphs, 1 FFS, 2x poles, a sonar module and a ethernet hub. 1 x 125 can more than handle a full day even with all that. Might eventually put a PP Charge which gives me even greater protection. I hate letting go of good batteries, but cash is also good... the engineer in me is conflicted. This is all before of course thinking about fishing... hah.

Indeed! Waiting on a Trailer Valet XL to arrive. The driveway and apron is a sharp L so using a vehicle isn't going to happen.

Present battery wire mess. But, solid and buckled down.

Well, I appear to not have the ability to create albums in the gallery. I can add photo's to the general gallery (Fishing Albums) but can't create one of my own. Perhaps I don't have enough cred? So, attached is one pic I have. Kinda small as I can't upload anything over 500KB either. Usually pretty adept at forums, but can't seem to figure out the album creation.

Well, something came along that was to tough to pass up. Already have two Bonafide fishing kayaks (SS127 and SS107) decently equipped and those have been great, but wanted a boat to enjoy as well. Been a lurker here for a long time. So much content, advice, and fantastic conversation from all those dedicated to this activity can't thank the community enough. So with that...🫠 Picked up a 2018 1875 Lund Pro-V Bass. It's in fantastic condition overall, and had some reasonable goodies on it. Who knows, maybe that seller is on here and he will recognize as I describe. Picked up from a great dealer locally. Special shout out to @A-Jay, while I've been a Lund fan for a long time (father had a 16' over the years), I always liked AJ's layout and selection of the bench vs. XS and the size of the boat is just perfect for an all around experience. Regrettably, it didn't have the slide out tackle storage (I guess 2018 is when Lund started not offering it because of complaints in that solution), still has the empty space though. I'm also sure there was studies on whether XS or bench was being ordered which lead them to only offering an XS config. I prefer the bench as it'll be my wife and I 98% of the time on the water anyway. If I had to buy new, I'd not be able to do it, so this worked out great. Obligatory equipment rundown Black 1875 with bunk custom (single axle). Merc Verado 200 4STK Ultrex 80 24v. A Lowrance 3-in-1 is mounted on it tied to the bow graph. 1 bow Lowrance 9 HDS Live, 1 console Lowrance 9 HDS Live (notable the split of vendors). All networked. Oddly, NMEA 200 was left out of the boat. Likely to add so I can put the GPS puck on the back closer to transducer and get waypoint sync working (why does Lowrance not support ethernet or wireless is beyond me....) and stage me for motor integration and ghost. I'm a Lowrance guy, so I'll give the Ultrex a shot for now (getting the iPilot remote to get waypoint and trail working). I'd prefer integrated vendor, but I'd have to get a Ghost or MotorGuide. Likely a next year purchase, already have batteries purchased for a 36v down the road. ActiveTarget with single transducer on the trolling motor (Hey, why don't I ever see any stories on FFS? /s 😏) 2 x 125Ah Ionics for the trolling. < 10 cycles on them so far, so that's awesome. 1 x 100Ah Ionic for electronics, and 1 lead acid for crank/house. 17 cycles on the lithium (again, bonus). I've already removed the lead acid and wired to the lithium for house/electronic/crank combo. It's 900 CCA equivalent and Merc supports it (on the list for this motor). 4 bank Noku Gen Pro (4x10). Additions I might make over next year or so is swap the Ultrex for a 36v Ghost and put a 12" HDS Live on the bow (probably pick up a beatdown pole as well) and move the exiting 9" as a double on the console. Not sure I need the jump to HDS Pro and if the HD really buys enough for me to switch. Also want to do some rewiring of electric. While the gauge is in spec, I'd rather make it more robust and move the electronic connections using Blue Sea fuse panels at mid-ship instead. Well, that is enough for now. See some of you out there.

Not to bad for the price for an all-purpose. Several other vendors that certify cranking can be much higher (30-50%+ average). It's interesting they are using cylindrical instead of prismatic cells according to their tech sheet. That has advantages and disadvantages. Two main advantages is better voltage regulation particularly when you use in series or parallel configuration, and because there are more cells in a standard battery than prismatic, the loss of a cell is lesser impact than if it was prismatic which is usually 4-6 in a 100Ah 12v battery. The max current charge seems a bit low considering that they are saying up to 300hp engines which would mean pretty large alternator (100+) but that all depends on how the BMS handles the inrush and you'd need something running WOT for a while to create that condition. The differentiator then just comes down to warranty, support and longevity of the supplier.

I have a St. Croix LTB baitcaster that has separated at the seat. I warrantied the pole, but I think I can fix this. The cork area and the seat come apart as depicted in the image. There is epoxy there that seems to have given up. I haven't had luck finding local repair shops. Any advice on best way for me to mend this myself (i.e. what to do with existing epoxy, how to clean, which epoxy to use, etc.)?

I use an Avid X 68 MF. That's my favorite all-around spinner. It all comes down to personal preference. Ideally fish them both and return what you don't like (if that is an option for you).

Been back in the swing of things for the past few years. One piece of advice I always hear is "target the fish with what they are eating." To me, this seems to be the hardest one to follow. I don't get to mired down in colors and tackle choices much. I have the normal assortment (watermelon/green pumpkin/black&blue and flakes) of colors and do senko, jig, jerk, and frog type fishing. In an 8 hour period on the lake I like to fish I can haul out sometimes 8-10 bass (mainly LMB), most never over 1.5 lbs but have the occasional 4 lb. I see bluegill/pumkinseed all around. See very little perch and very little minnow. I haven't seen a single crawdad on the beach anywhere (skeleton or otherwise), so I'm thinking this lake doesn't support. Water is clear but bottom is vegi/mukry and dark (visibility stops about 6ft down lake goes to 30 in some spots). Back to my point... Beyond cutting them open or lucky enough to see a meal sticking out of them, what are the best ways to determine what is the meal choice of bass in the lake? I'm inferring much of my hookup with "crawdad colors and presentations" are simply because of action and bass wanting to crush it not because I'm mimicing something they know. Tips and comments please.

I went with a 8'0" H Cabelas Whuppin Stick (those are about $25 bucks and good broomstick), 65lbs Spiderwire pink camo braid (bright just in case it breaks) and an old Quantum ICOM spinning reel. I could chuck that thing so far that the deeper would lose contact with the phone. Cheap way to ensure you don't loose your device way out there.