OilfieldCowboy

I've generally used the Blue Label leaders and am almost out of 8lb, might have to order some of these Gold Label spools.

My Steez is also collecting dust. It gets used so rarely that I don't have a dedicated application for it. Rod is a Dobyns DX 743 with 12lb Maxima Ultragreen on it that I use as a general purpose rod when it gets into the rotation.

I recommend you take a look at fly fishing backpacks. They are generally designed for carrying two rod tubes, which I have used to carry conventional rods. Some of the older Simm's backpacks worked pretty good and can be found used periodically. https://fishpondusa.com/collections/backpacks/products/firehole-backpack https://fishpondusa.com/products/thunderhead-submersible-backpack

This thread made me think about all the rods I've broken over the years. When I lived in Alaska we all ran 9'6" ultralight Loomis rods (15 years ago) we tended to just about break a rod every day when the salmon were running hard. We would just go to the hardware store and swap it out. Broke more than a couple trying to separate the two pieces after being mated far too long. Broke some in car doors or tailgates. Have broken four different fly rods and I don't know how many 6' to 7' freshwater rods. Maybe one of those was due to defect, it exploded into graphite toothpicks while putting pressure on a snagged 3/0. All others were 100% user error. High sticking, swinging for the fences when setting the hook, snagging in brush on the hike into the river, etc.

I use those crimp connectors with heat shrink jacket when I’m in a hurry. Much prefer bare terminals and my own heat shrink so I can generally get a better crimp. And the size/type terminal I want. The problem I’m having right now is finding Ancor marine wire by the foot locally in the AWG I need. I don’t need a 25ft spool of black and yellow 4 gauge, or 8 gauge for the fuse panel feed. Going to have to order from West Marine and have it shipped.

Good points, thank you for the response. 5200 is only in my plans as a sealant. Everything is going to either be through bolted or riveted. Tinned marine wire and connectors are already planned. Have made that mistake before. Planning on marine AGM batteries so I wont ever have to deal with offgassing, associated corrosion, or topping up with distilled water. The outboard runs, new water pump arrived at the dealer today so that will be rebuilt Friday. Roller bunks, new keel rollers, new jack, and other parts have already been delivered, just trying to figure out how to rig this boat off of the trailer long enough for the swap out. It is all about the correct tool for the job. I have hydraulic crimpers for heavier gauge terminals and ratcheting for smaller. The other end of the equation is dual wall heat shrink to help with strain relief. If I feel like going above and beyond (which is regularly) I crimp, solder with silver bearing solder, then adhesive lined heat shrink.

will do. Right now I am in planning and acquisition phase for electrical. Lund is by far my preferred hull since I’ll never find a weldcraft or alumaweld smaller than 20 ft. I’m already north of $3,00 just in fish finder and downrigger. This build doesn’t have a budget, more so a directive to not approach new cost. I tend to go overboard on everything. Currently have a good stock of 5200 that will be put to use once I strip the flex seal the previous owner applied to the exterior of the hull. That coupled with self sealing blind rivets should fix it up.

Chapter 1 Continued The switch panel with broken switches and oversized fuses: I found where it seems to be taking on water, old transducer mount holes they covered in bondo now covered in starboard and 3M 5200 to be continued…

In reading through the boat forum I have noticed the lack of electrical info and since I am going to be diving into refitting the cheap boat I just picked up I might as well try and document things for people in the future. So without further ado I shall start. Chapter 1 - Previous Owners Always Suck I have found through the years of only buying things used that the universal truth is that Previous Owners always suck. When they make compromise decisions, it is always the opposite direction than you as the current owner would make. And with that said; WIRE NUTS HAVE NO PLACE ON ANYTHING THAT ISN’T RESIDENTIAL WIRING! The number of times I have found them in my vehicles, ATV’s, and now this boat really angers me. State of my bilge and live wells pumps currently ?: The lovely disaster of a house battery:

I guess I’ll have to dig that blank out and see if the label in the bag states if it is the HM or IM. @Delaware Valley Tackle, looks to be a 1/2 to 1-1/2 oz. MB 7108 link Thank you both for the responses.

I stopped building rods a few years ago and packed everything into storage. I've been trying to go through said storage the last month and found 3 NFC blanks that I have no idea what use I intended for them. I don't currently have any holes in my rod arsenal, but don't want to leave any blanks un used so I'm looking for recommendations on them. MB 7108-1 Casting rod for what technique? MB 661-1 No idea on this one DS 721-1 I think I ordered this one for a spinning drop shot configuration, but not sure

I am most likely going to run a 6" and see what kind of interference I get on the side image.

That is still what my dad considers to be his favorite reel. I was very happy when his last one finally died a few years ago. my least favorite was a browning combo that was bought from an auction. It was in the early 90’s, this semi load of “stuff” came to town and set up in the local hotel. It had to have all been factory seconds. The guides weren’t aligned on either of the rods and both reels would lock up at least once per trip.

@Catt, I had not looked at trim tabs currently. The primary driver is less about getting on step and more about transom mount transducer compatibility. Worst case scenario will be me installing a hull mount system somehow this winter, but not sure how to go about doing that with an aluminum boat. those tabs do look slick though. thank you for all of the replies, I need to look more at my setup and see what compromises I’m willing to make since there is no such thing as a perfect solution.

Do you know this from empirical data or is it supposition? Sure, move a load further out on the lever changes how things interact, but let’s make a few base assumptions: 3 deep cycle batteries in the bow for 195 lbs Trolling motor on bow for 68 lbs Tackle and gear in bow, let’s be conservative and say 50 lbs total in bow, 313 lbs Suzuki DF50 229 lbs fuel at half tank, call it 60 lbs total at transom, 289 lbs I’m more concerned about where my 300 lbs is sitting (which is almost right at midship) and where my passenger will be (6 inches further fore than me) than I am about moving the outboard further out from the transom.