torm

Hey I love an late answer than never getting one so thanks for your input. Will be looking to check them out in the future now. That is unfortunate about the 7 Palms website though.

From what I got from the video the aldeberan is power bfs to medium stuff? Wouldn't that cannilbalize the metanium dc a bit? Very excited for that antares though!

Anybody have any experience with this 7'3 heavy mod fiber glass rod? Not a lot of videos on it and was wondering how versatile was this rod. Was planning to use it for chatterbaits and maybe even deeper cranking. Its also on sale too so curiosity is creeping on me.

Is there something wrong with the bait wrx sale? Everytime I click on an item it shows a different price than what it is advertise at.

Will it work yes. Will it guarantee a fish, no. I've seen this technique work with chatterbaits as well, although not with an 8 gear ratio reel. I had a buddy that manage to smack some nice bass burning a chatterbait with a 5 gear ratio in colder temps.

If you plan on mainly finesse I would go with Vanford. The start up inertia is very fast. If the Stradic fm is like the fl, you will feel a bit more resistance. While that may not matter much to some it will. Now if you were planning on using that reel for heavier species such as catfish and salmon then I would go stradic.

I've never had issues with them in the past. They did just come off from a big holiday so I assume they are probably backed up with orders. Only thing bad I can say is they tend to be pricier than others. They also do tend to have more models than other places. Just order a poison ultima Ul/M and nobody but them had one.

Honestly I've given up on making things complicated. Does it work if you kill a bait? Sure why not. In my experiences the simple steady retrieve has worked the best. Fishing is so random and there are so many factors that can influence a bite. Recently I've had days where I'm fishing in 40 degree water with a 7 gear ratio, slow retrieve, and getting skunk. My buddy on the other side of the boat is burning his chatterbait in with an 8 and smacking giants. The same goes for cranks as well. I barely ever grind my cranks on the bottom and I still manage to catch fish just steady retrieving them. Also you gotta remember pros are always trying to sell something. Besides being a fisherman they are pretty much walking sales guys. They get paid to do a job even if it contradicts what they said previously.

I use are daiwa blazon 64 bf which works quite well for ned rigs and worms. Not super expensive either. I have thrown smaller cranks and bigger cranks on it but its a bit stiff for the smaller ones but doable. Depending on how small of a crank you plan on using, the medium might be a bit overpowering especially with 20lb braid. Then again if you plan on more power finesse then the medium would be better. I fish mainly rivers though so I don't really need to hog them out of any cover. Be careful with the scorpion spool with braid. I've heard some people warped it in the past with braid because they treat it like a regular baitcaster.

Megabass KOs blanks are quite popular among custom painters but you can usually tell its not the original blank by the internals. The 110 for example have those tungsten balls which has a unique sound. Some blanks might not come or come with different balls making a different sound. As for the outrageous prices those are most likely the respect colors you're seeing on ebay. They are considered rare print for the lures which is why people sell them at a collectors value rather than fishing value. Megabass do have a way of making beautiful lures and their cult will pay for them if its the one they are looking for.

I would stick with Vanford if finesse is what your looking for. Stradic if you plan on using it on bigger species then stradic. Main difference and probably the most important you will probably feel will be weight and the initial start up for reeling the reel. It is very noticeable if you are a picky guy.

I assume the kage walleye is gonna be less stiff since its a walleye rod and those guys usually don't want a super stiff rod for jigging. The tatula probably is gonna be stiffer since its a bass rod.

Anyone ever tried buying from Kkjapanlure? They seem legit but I can't seem to find much info on them.

I've had them break me off on 20lb fluro leaders. Sadly thats just how it is if you got pike or pickerel in your waters. On the positive side though, they do provide some action if bass ain't biting. Pikes to me have the best topwater explosions. I've actually started keeping them and eating them out of spite now as long as their legal size due to all the megabass lures I've lost.

If I remember right the serial numbers were more for the warranty side. Also to stop people from selling it at full price when they bought it at half. I know bps rods had that system with their rods though on knowing when it was made.

I'm not a reel expert but my 2 cents would be the internals are probably where you are gonna see the quality difference. Its kinda like how bearings became the ultimate scam. Many reels would offer you double digits bearings but a good budget shimano or daiwa reel would still feel smoother. You gotta remember that new reels no matter what brand all feel nice but its the longevity test that matters to some. Many things plays in what makes a great reel for a person. Longevity smoothness not initial, drag smoothness, years of use, and the list goes on the pickier you get. If your a simple fisherman then yeah any brand is good. I myself had both reels and they perform great for your standard bass fishing and walleye. However when salmon came into play pfluegers straight out failed. My fuego is 5 years straight of fishing for salmon with other species with no maintenance and I can confidently go next season with it. I've worked a couple years at a bait shop as well. The number 1 selling reel we had were those pfluegers because they were cheap and good when they were 50.00. They were number 1 in the category for returns and issues also though. The plastic part that connects the bail to the reel is SUPER fragile. Cannot tell you how many reel demos broke due to poor handling because I lost count. They also did not maintain their smoothness for long and became geary+loud especially if you were brutal on them which a majority of people are due to lack of knowledge.

Oh good. The alphas sv wouldn't be a bad choice then for what you plan on doing.

OP if you are looking at the alphas air that I'm thinking of, just know that the max drag on that is around 8lb ish. Open water you are solid, but in heavy vegetation you are gonna definitely wear out that reel faster than normal. What type of baits and weights are you trying to throw on it, also what rod do you plan on pairing with it. What type and pound line do you plan on throwing on it too? The new tatula sv in the 80 size would work perfect for what your trying to do. If you want a bit cheaper get the salamandura which is just a red version of it which you can get roughly around 150-180. Still small enough to palm like a bfs reels too but with a beefier drag, also comes with the drag clicker. Do you have any experience with a bfs reel? It seems to me you got your mind fully set on them regardless of the problems that will come. I hope your not planning to sling 65lb braid, into a 1 1/2 oz tungsten weight, into a heavy wired hook, and onto a heavy rod on that alphas air...

Hey OP, if you are really serious about getting into this please take note of the warnings given to ya. It is totally doable to flip and pitch with bfs reels with light pound braid like 10 or even 15. I've done this myself with a calcutta bfs but you need to keep common sense in mind. The setup will work well for finesse flip and pitch, NOT HEAVY. If you pair a bfs reel with heavy rod you run the risk of snapping off on hooksets. That is actually the good part, the other is you warp your spool eventually and spools are not cheap. If you use a bfs rod then you won't have the backbone for a good hookset if you fishing in heavy cover or getting them out of them especially if there are pads. A bfs flip and pitch use would be if you're fishing in low and light coverage. Good luck trying to horse a 2lber out of a dock before it wraps ya with a light combo as I've lost plenty of baits experimenting with this. Look for traditional baitcasters with a shallow spool if you wanna do heavy cover fishing and no it isn't cheap but that is the price if you wanna do that style of fishing.

The new Scorpion Dc is very overbreaked. Great reel for flipping, pitching, skipping, and close quarters. You will not cast as smooth as the slx dc xt. The new slx dc xt is like the 2017 scorpion dc, great do everything reel with upgraded breaks. Although I do miss the auto feature as I feel that was always the best setting to be on. Definitely a curado dc killer, but the Scorpion DC is just a different reel compared to the other two.

I've seen people dropshot the gilly over beds, so its probably only good during spawning season if your bed fishing. While it looks nice I've haven't seen much success with it other than that. I too fell for the bait looks and bought a couple lol.

Braid works extremely well for many topwater applications however when it comes to treble baits its a gray area. I've had times where no issues occur and times where I do yank a hook out out of a mouth. Doesn't happen often though. As for glass rod delaying a hookset, if I'm right, if you move a bait with a glass rod or a graphite rod its gonna move the same if you get me. A glass rod is less sensitive than a graphite so when a fish bites a crankbait you don't feel it until it eats it good which is why they call that a delay. The issue is the backbone being a lot softer and a bait being topwater. Even if you wait and set hook, on either rods you get the same reaction only difference is a glass rod has less hook power. The glass does not benefit your top water bait like it does a crankbait due to the fact that you delay your bites regardless of rod. And even if you do set hook right away with either rod, it is still gonna pull your bait away roughly the same. You just gotta swing harder now with the glass. That's assuming your using a frog or single hook baits. So because of that you could be putting yourself at a disadvantage using a glass rod for topwater.

While it could be that maybe the fish just got off somehow, using the glass rod could possibly be the reason why your losing those fish. If you had him on for a couple of seconds and the hooked popped, its cuz of the moderate action not being able to drive the hook into the bass' mouth. You would really have to swing for the fences if that's the case. I had a customer a while back who told me he converted his top water rod to a glass rod because glass rods were suppose to "delay" hooksets due to him being impatient on waiting to set the hook. Saw him again after a season and he told me he lost twice as many fish on single hook or frog applications than his old combo. Based off that I would suggest not using a glass rod for topwater unless you are using it for treble baits like poppers, spooks, ploppers, and so on.

I have 2 of the eradicator realfinesse xul 69 and they are probably the best rods I've used in the ultralight setting. Very sensitive and a blast to fish with. Biggest fish I've caught with it is a 10lb american drum with 2lb polyester line. It is made in China however but to me that really doesn't matter much. Can't say much for the reel side but I was very curious in the revo aurora elite bfs a while ago which looked nice.

All bps reels from Carbonlite and up are made by Daiwa. Anything below is probably doyo. For the the spinning side just match up the price of their reel to a daiwa one and its a knock off of that. The carbonlite spinning is a exceler but with a shallower spool. Location where they are made could be china or vietnam. Not bad reels especially if you got a buddy who works for cabelas or bps who can get you them for cheap. Otherwise they are kinda competing with other brands who are known to be better.