@reelChris

It sounds like you need to either pick up a trailer for your existing boat or transition to fishing in a lightweight kayak. A trailer would allow you to keep the heaviest items like the trolling motor and battery in the boat all of the time and launch at boat ramps. A lightweight kayak would enable you to launch without a boat ramp, but you would still have to load and unload the boat and all of its equipment by hand.

I'm starting to learn that whatever the youtube superstars say, the opposite generally works better on pressured lakes. If I were you I'd stick to what worked a few weeks ago.

This place has parts for Merc engines back to 1940 https://www.oldmercs.com

I'm pretty sure that without a waypoint sensor, GPS doesn't know to any great degree of accuracy which way it is facing when stationary.

That seems like asking for problems. Unless you perfectly seal both layers, water is going to get in between them and speed up the rot in the floor or the carpet underneath, or just create a breeding ground for mold. Plus, how would you deal with seat bases?

Try adding a split shot about 6-10" in front of the crick hopper. It will give it a bill down attitude and also give you a little more depth once you get it going.

The Dobyns 703sf is a great rod for drop shots, light Texas rigs, shakey heads and skipping weightless senkos. A little too heavy for ned rigs. It has good balance and just enough power without being stiff. It's rated medium heavy by Dobyns but it's more of a medium.

You could check the quickdraw community to see if anyone has uploaded a map of that lake. Failing that, Canadian Lakevu maps are on sale on Garmin's site for $99, down from $149.

What kind of wire do you use?

Three things - 1) almost no one can tell you a perfect spot to mount your transducer, you have to pick what looks like a good spot based on the accepted guidelines (no strakes, far from the motor, etc.) then go through trial and error to see if the spot you picked and the height you mounted actually works. 2) in order to keep from putting a bunch of holes in your boat during the trial and error process, you should buy or make a plastic transducer mounting board. That way, you mount and seal the board to the boat, then you can move the transducer around by screwing and unscrewing from the plastic without worrying about damaging the hull. 3) If you're worried about the transducer getting damaged off by stumps or other things in the water, you should mount it to a SPRING BACK BRACKET and then to the mounting board.

2015 pro 170's have two live wells?? Are you sure you didn't fill up a storage compartment?

I think I’m in a tournament rut. I’ve fished four tournaments this year in a small trail on natural lakes I generally get limited practice on before game day. As a result, I find myself trying to find offshore fish for an hour or two before giving up and hitting docks with a wacky worm just to have something to weigh in at the end of the day. I like fishing docks, but I want to expand beyond the easiest most obvious lures and locations. I’m fairly new to finding fish and not very confident in my ability to locate them away from visible cover or structure. I’ve tried graphing, but most lakes are so weedy that electronics are basically for mapping only. Does anyone have any suggestions?

For future reference, Springfield threaded pedestals fit.

I forgot to add that the OEM threaded pedestals are Springfield but the bases are concealed by carpet. So, I assume Springfields would work but what about attwood, marine raider or bass pro?

Which aftermarket threaded pedestals fit tracker bases? I'm looking for a compatible adjustable pedestal for a butt seat.

Maybe I missing something, but this doesn't look much different from the tokyo rig.

One downside of wearing a buff is that it feels like your neck is covered, but unless you're wearing a hoodie or a collared shirt, there's always a little strip of skin that is getting sun.

Mini crank baits like a Yo zuri snap bean

Abu Garcia Veritas 6'6" M or MH spinning rods are on sale at Sportsman's Guide. $64 for non-members, $58.50 for members. Shipping is $11, but it's $9.99 to become a member and then you get free shipping. Also - I have a free shipping code for Rapala.com someone can have. PM me and it's yours.

Feel free to spend your money on whatever, but if you think they can't accidentally go off without a big splash, you haven't fished with anyone truly clumsy. The manual pull tabs can hook on stuff. And, not every vest is that expensive to rearm. The Onyx/Bass Pro kits are under $30.

The extra rearm kit is in the case of inflation of the vest, either accidentally (it got splashed, or blew off the deck and ended up in the water), or as designed (you fell in). Without a rearm kit, you'd have to wear your brick orange vest until you got back home.

Because the auto can go off unintentionally with repeated moisture exposure. Whatever version you get, make sure you carry a re-arm kit in the boat and a backup, non-inflatable jacket.

I should have checked the quickdraw community first. Most of what I need has already been mapped there. But, do the normal GPS maps (not the fishing maps) stop at the US border so that I'll still need the Canadian package to know where I'm at?

Does anyone know how to tell if Echomap covers large bodies of water? I've looked at Garmin's search engine (lakes.garmin.com) but it doesn't look like any big water has data symbols. I'm particularly interested in Georgian Bay in Ontario.

This is a 2" Zara pooch I bought off eBay with the intent of creating a double spook rig. I'd like to replace the front hook before I tie it to another lure but I'm not sure how. I could add tiny split rings and then new hooks. Would that kill the action?